195354 Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 I am ready for paint on my 53 engine, few little details that concern me. The valve cover top nut just does not fit as I think it should. I have checked the parts book and it does not call out a seal washer under the nut, Centerville Auto in California advised that no gasket under this nut, not enough oil up top to worry about it leaking. The gasket kit has a seal for this area but it does not fit in the recess it has a larger OD. As you can see the nut will just dig in the cover. I am thinking of making a small gasket for this area. I have looked for pictures of the spark plug shields installed, but detail on the nut and stud is not easy to see. One thought is the new nuts are just a bit taller, what is the acceptable protrusion on these studs; I plan on making new studs and having a few threads exposed. Thanks for suggestions Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Steve, the nuts were painted with the rest of the engine, so no gouges seen and it is easy to touch up if needed. Stud protrusion is a personal preference. Another personal preference is the thicker nuts...I don't like them and cut them down to original size. Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon bee Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 I always thought that nut went on the other way around. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Ditto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 May or may not be strictly "correct" but I put a thin washer under the nuts to prevent nut rash. I also turn the spark plug cover nuts down to about 1/2 thickness. They are under so little tension no worries about stripping them, they look more proportional and the stud protrusion is flush ......................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 4 minutes ago, Bhigdog said: May or may not be strictly "correct" but I put a thin washer under the nuts to prevent nut rash. I also turn the spark plug cover nuts down to about 1/2 thickness. They are under so little tension no worries about stripping them, they look more proportional and the stud protrusion is flush ......................Bob I use a washer under the nuts that secure the valve cover. This helps even the pressure on the rubber gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 32 minutes ago, leon bee said: I always thought that nut went on the other way around. The flat side towards the covers. I believe the flat side helps even the pressure over a wider area than opposed to the cone shape of the nut going into the depression in the cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leon bee Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 But, but, it fits in there so nice the other way round. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Why not just use a regular hardware store nut at that point? I thought the whole purpose of the specialty nuts was to seat on the face of the valve and spark plug covers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 3 hours ago, avgwarhawk said: The flat side towards the covers. I believe the flat side helps even the pressure over a wider area than opposed to the cone shape of the nut going into the depression in the cover. If the depression in the cover is semi-spherical (Is it?), wouldn't the rounded end distribute pressure more evenly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Why?...Because Buick made it that way. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 18 hours ago, Beemon said: Why not just use a regular hardware store nut at that point? I thought the whole purpose of the specialty nuts was to seat on the face of the valve and spark plug covers. Its Buick. Rounded corners at the top. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 18 hours ago, KongaMan said: If the depression in the cover is semi-spherical (Is it?), wouldn't the rounded end distribute pressure more evenly? This is a question best left to an engineer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 22 hours ago, old-tank said: Why?...Because Buick made it that way. Buick made it that way because it gives the nut a more finished look. Chevy and Ford likely used a production run hardware store nut............Bob 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Thanks to all for the suggestions, I believe the nut in my picture is the correct height, found an old rusty version in a box of parts and it is the same height. Did Buick have a different height on this nut for different years; are you modifying just to fit your needs? I like the idea of shorting the nut some with the correct look retained. The seal that came in the gasket kit does not fit in the top of the valve cover correctly. I can make something work is a seal needed, I was told not that a seal is not a big deal. I hate oil leaks so I am building a test stand for the engine now, test run and check for leaks. Then pickle the engine, and then continue with the project. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Stupid question probably, but are the studs screwed into the head too far? Could you not back them out the 1/4" it looks like you need to expose the end? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAD36 Posted September 16, 2017 Share Posted September 16, 2017 Rounded side up. Try a piece of heavy gasket paper cut the diameter of the nut and fit it snug over the stud. Wont rash the paint, no oily fumes leak out. I did the same on the spark plug covers so the paint doesn't get beat up. Depends how accurate you want to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1953mack Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 (edited) For anyone assembling a 1953-1956 Buick V-8 engine, it should be obvious . . . . . ♦ The 4 hold-down studs for the valve rocker arm covers are longer than the 4 studs for the spark plug covers. ♦ Buick came up with these lengths by having the stud’s 7/16” embedded thread length into the cylinder head equaling the 7/16”-high domed-nut. ♦ All 8 studs have fine and coarse threads measuring 5/8” long on opposite ends. ♦ The tapped holes in the cylinder heads for all 8 studs measure close to 3/4" deep. ♦ ‘Burying’ the threaded studs into the cylinder head more than 7/16” deep will result in the tip of the stud not being flush with the highest point on the domed outer face. Your picture reflects that. The Shop Manual calls out for only a 4-5 foot-pound torque reading on these nuts. I can’t think of a good reason for installing these studs deeper into the cylinder heads, longer studs, or shaving the height of the domed-nut. That identical nut has been used by Buick since 1925. Al Malachowski BCA #8965 “500 Miles West of Flint” Edited September 17, 2017 by 1953mack (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 On 9/17/2017 at 7:08 AM, 1953mack said: For anyone assembling a 1953-1956 Buick V-8 engine, it should be obvious . . . . . ♦ The 4 hold-down studs for the valve rocker arm covers are longer than the 4 studs for the spark plug covers. ♦ Buick came up with these lengths by having the stud’s 7/16” embedded thread length into the cylinder head equaling the 7/16”-high domed-nut. ♦ All 8 studs have fine and coarse threads measuring 5/8” long on opposite ends. ♦ The tapped holes in the cylinder heads for all 8 studs measure close to 3/4" deep. ♦ ‘Burying’ the threaded studs into the cylinder head more than 7/16” deep will result in the tip of the stud not being flush with the highest point on the domed outer face. Your picture reflects that. The Shop Manual calls out for only a 4-5 foot-pound torque reading on these nuts. I can’t think of a good reason for installing these studs deeper into the cylinder heads, longer studs, or shaving the height of the domed-nut. That identical nut has been used by Buick since 1925. Al Malachowski BCA #8965 “500 Miles West of Flint” My observations on 55-56 nailheads: The nuts are not as tall as pictured. The studs are screwed into the head with all the threads on the studs used; the stud protrudes from the nut 1/8 to 1/4 inch when assembled. The studs for the sparkplug covers require sealer since many will penetrate the water jacket. The late 55 and all 56 engines used bolts with domed heads for the valve covers and these are sometimes different lengths to account for the sparkplug wire bracket at the rear (if the long one is used in the front it will bottom out in the head before getting tight). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted September 19, 2017 Share Posted September 19, 2017 On 9/17/2017 at 8:08 AM, 1953mack said: For anyone assembling a 1953-1956 Buick V-8 engine, it should be obvious . . . . . ♦ The 4 hold-down studs for the valve rocker arm covers are longer than the 4 studs for the spark plug covers. ♦ Buick came up with these lengths by having the stud’s 7/16” embedded thread length into the cylinder head equaling the 7/16”-high domed-nut. ♦ All 8 studs have fine and coarse threads measuring 5/8” long on opposite ends. ♦ The tapped holes in the cylinder heads for all 8 studs measure close to 3/4" deep. ♦ ‘Burying’ the threaded studs into the cylinder head more than 7/16” deep will result in the tip of the stud not being flush with the highest point on the domed outer face. Your picture reflects that. The Shop Manual calls out for only a 4-5 foot-pound torque reading on these nuts. I can’t think of a good reason for installing these studs deeper into the cylinder heads, longer studs, or shaving the height of the domed-nut. That identical nut has been used by Buick since 1925. Al Malachowski BCA #8965 “500 Miles West of Flint” This is how I remember it when I rebuilt my heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airy Cat Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 Nuts to all of you. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airy Cat Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Thanks for the Ha Has. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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