GaryBudd Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Any suggestions on a GOOD brand of 6 volt batteries.Have bought 2 from TSC and neither one wants to run starter for more than a few minutes.I just had the starter rebuilt and bench test good.I've checked for additional draw but there is none.Both tested low on load test after trying to start engine.I really don't want to convert to 12 volt but if it is a better way to go then I might.Any help would be appreciated.My car is a 1929 Desoto K. 6 cyl. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 I have an excellent one that is branded "Pacific Power Batteries", but I suspect that is a regional brand. I'm in Washington State. I wouldn't convert it to 12v. Most 12v conversions I have seen are about 75%-90% working. There is always something that doesn't work right with the conversion, some gauge, or the radio, or a heater motor, etc, and then you open the hood and theres an alternator. I'm sure there are some bad designs out there, but generally speaking, the engineers designed these things to work on 6 volts and they did. They do crank slower, but this is by design. It just sounds odd today. At 6v, current is twice as high as it would be at 12v to do the same work, so clean connections a must, as is larger wire in the battery cables. Generally speaking, the ones sold at parts stores for 12v cars are not big enough. Why do you need it to crank for a few minutes? Most 12v cars cant do that. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Harmatuk Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 I have a 30 Chrysler CJ 6. I use Auto Zone batteries in everything. Do yourself a favor. Go to Rhode Island Wiring Company's web site and get their duplicate of original Negative and Positive cables. Your Desoto and my Chrysler are basically the same car. The cables should be the same. I can send pictures. Never a problem cranking my 6 cylinder, and I have a flooding BB-1 carburetor. (with a rebuild kit next to it) and the generator isn't hooked up. Bill H 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryBudd Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 I am going to look into the bigger cables.I guess I overstated the crank time,more like seconds.I am trying to figure out why no spark.I have 6 volts at coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Make sure you have that six volts or at least 5 when cranking . Mine did same found ignition wire switch /meter connections poor . Cleaned and soldiered to fix . Found by running by-pass jumper straight from battery lead at starter to coil . Then hit starter and found good spark at plug wire to ground . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hudsy Wudsy Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Ground cables can be particularly troublesome. When they have too much resistance they can actually get somewhat warm after continued cranking. Remember that battery draw tests wont tell you anything if the battery is low and needs charging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 I had a six volt slow starting car, grounded to the frame near the battery. Remember that, in that case, the current needs to travel through numerous connections to get to the starter, frame, rivets, bolts, etc. I ran a ground cable directly to the starter, and the difference was amazing. Turns over at least twice as fast with the same battery. As mentioned, heavy cables for lower voltage are a must, 12V cables will not carry the current needed.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Remember if you change the ground from the frame to the starter mounting bolts that you must have a good ground from the engine to the frame or you lights will be dimmer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&J Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 On 5/5/2017 at 7:11 PM, trimacar said: I had a six volt slow starting car, grounded to the frame near the battery. Remember that, in that case, the current needs to travel through numerous connections to get to the starter, frame, rivets, bolts, etc. When I went for Factory VW beetle repair school back when 6v was still being serviced at VW dealers, the instructor spent a hour showing the resistance (loss) at each point you speak of. He used a ohmmeter at each part, showing the potential loss, just from normal very minor corrosion at each spot. He went on to show that it was the cumulative losses over all of these spots, that eventually leads to slow start in especially, winter. In other words, if only one connection in the chain is slightly dirty, you can get by...for a while. He said this pertains to 12v also, but really extremely critical on 6v. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 A lot of people swear by the Optima type batteries. They say they perform better and last longer than regular lead acid batteries. I haven't tried them myself but that is what I hear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
normanpitkin Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 i have had 2 Optima batteries running in my New Yorker for 7 years ,still perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now