56 open drive conversion

[cords]

I'm lead to believe that a diff centre out of a later model Buick will bolt into my 56 housing and use my axels can some one point me in the right direction for year models that would suit

Cheers Gavin

[NC-car-guy]

So you are correct, but remember if you open the drive shaft, you need to re engineer the rear suspension, as the torque tube is really what holds the rear axle on....

Here's a note from a BCA member (not me) that was posted in another forum.

 

A 1961-1962 Buick open drive rear end center section is a direct bolt in. The axle shafts for 1956-1958 Special/Century are the same and have 33 splines and 33 spline axles were used through 1962. A 1956 Special with Dynaflow has a 3.23:1 gear ratio and with manual trans a 3.91:1 gear ratio. 1961-1962 Invicta, Electra and Electra 225 also have a 3.23:1 gear ratio. If you use a 1961-1962 then you only have to redo the suspension as described above and probably the trans mount.

[cords]

suspension wont be a problem got that sorted already

 

[Beemon]

What transmission did you go with, a 700r4?

 

Can you post pictures of your install? I'm very interested in these kinds of things and the people who do them usually never take any photos. 

[cords]

will be going with a 700r and using trailing arms out of a local holden that line up with the rails quite well

[Ttotired]

Pretty keen to see it as well as I might do similar to my 58, although, I will give the dynaflow a go first

[NTX5467]

I'm curious about the rear suspension items.  What Holden model did you find and what might the trailing arm length (ctr to ctr, and such) be?  As an aside, the 3rd-gen Camaros had a bar running between the rear axle (bolt pad near the pinion area of the axle) going forward to the rear of the trans. 

 

The other possibility I'd pondered was using leaf springs rather than coil springs.  Reason I thought about that was the alleged similarities between the Olds frames and the Buick frames.  Olds used leaf springs on the back in those years.  If the shackle locations could be duplicated?  But "pondering" is as far as it got.

 

Taking pictures of the full process PLUS a write-up might be appropriate for a special thread in this forum or The BUGLE.

 

Thanks!

NTX5467

[old-tank]

On 11/6/2016 at 4:21 AM, cords said:

 

suspension wont be a problem got that sorted already

 

Sorted?  But could you sorta post pictures and prose or the process?

[RivNut]

Check out post #2 in this post.  

 

 

[cords]

No pictures as of yet

as for which Holden ,hq through to WB Holden had a 10 bolt rear end with trailing arms triangulated that line up fairly well will require some brackets fabrication .

As it stands now my car is driving ,

but long term I would like to change to a late model transmission .

so I have two choices find a diff centre that bolts in saving me the hassle of stud patterns 

or bolt a Holden rear end in complete and have to stuff around with redrilling  axels.

all of these things I can manage but the centre change seems like the easy  option

when you take into account that regardless of what way I go there will fab work but the standard housing will require no brake or axle work 

cheers Gavin

[Ttotired]

I wondered if it was WB you were thinking

 

If you change the centre to an open drive shaft, your still going to have to set up a 4 link or leaf springs anyway, so are the WB arms and axle housing

brackets going to be fitted to the buick housing?

 

 

[cords]

yep sure are quick easy proven

 

[Ttotired]

So, are you going to use the WB diff housing ect as a swap, or cut the brackets off?

 

If it would fit, the WB diff assembly be much easier to mess with than finding a 61 diff centre

 

Just trying to get it straight in my head.

 

I have already re sealed the torque tube in my 58, but if it all goes pear shaped, doing this is an option

 

 

[cords]

at this stage I am playing with options. For myself welding a few brackets on a standard housing is the easiest way being that my former job was a boilermaker. So 8 brackets and a diff centre swap are easier than 4 brackets setting up new brakes and having axels redrilled to Buick stud pattern . If on the other hand  finding a 61 centre becomes a nightmare I will look at the Holden 10 bolt complete or a mid 70s Lincoln 9" which  are wide enough and just so happen to be 5x5 stud pattern

I like to have all my parts at hand before I do anything as I really hate stoping half way through a job to find a bit I have missed

At this stage my car is fine but I like to be prepared for the worst

 

[Ttotired]

Having never really driven a dynaflow, an open driveline might become a requirement for mine

 

Not sure if you have seen this one yet

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208059905122908&set=pcb.993913000739390&type=3

To far away for me to look at

[cords]

yep have seen it and have quite a bit of info on it but my 56 will do for the moment

I would really love a 57 roadmaster

[ghaskett]

You can go with putting 61/62  3rd member in and the go with Early Chev C-10 trailing arms. They go on axle housing with U bolts. If you get the C-10 cross member, remove the C-10 arm hook ups, weld them to an angle steel crossmember and you are good to go, except you'll want to hook up a modern 700R4 or 2004R. The adaptor runs about $700 which is considerably more than C-10 arms and a big Buick pumpkin.
I'm running a complete Jaguar XJS independent rear suspension in my 56. It's light years ahead of the solid axle for handling and affordable. Both Buicks pictured( Mine is the hdtp) have the Jag rear ends. Mine has a dual quad "65 Nailhead and TH400. The convertible also has a complete Jag front suspension and a massive Corvette LS engine and tranny.

[Beemon]

What compelled you to go with a Jag rear? Would never have thought independent rear end. What years?

[ghaskett]

Just now, Beemon said:

What compelled you to go with a Jag rear? Would never have thought independent rear end. What years?

A friend down in Amboy, WA ( I live in Union at south end of Hood Canal) had put one in his 56 Convertible. He also put a Jag front end in his, but time and money was against me, so we put a rearend in my 56. The reason was mainly..having four tires always planted on the road. As you can see, it also has rear inboard discs.  Later versions have outboard discs, but I like the look of the inboards.This particular set up has factory posi and Dana gears. And, it comes in its own cradle.
JAG  XJS rearends from around 1976-1993 are very popular and if you do some research, you'll see that they generally had a ratio of about 2:88 up to 3:54. Mine is 3:30 and hooked up to a '65 TH400 and 401. I suppose that I could have put in a 700R4, for example, but an adaptor was $700...a deal killer for me. These were hooked up to V-12 engines and are pretty stout. The engines weren't.. and I think blown engines meant lots of Jag parts cars from that era..thus available rearends.
The difference in ride control was night and day.

[ghaskett]

21 minutes ago, Beemon said:

What compelled you to go with a Jag rear? Would never have thought independent rear end. What years?

I actually had the pumpkin and C-10 trailing arm set up, was ready to install, but after talking with my friend in Amboy...this became the way to go for me.

[BDT91]

Can anyone tell me if this Jag set up would work on a 55 as well as a 56 Special/Century? I have a 55 and am trying to decide whether to rebuild the Dynaflow or mate to a 700r4 via adapter and swap out rear end with something like this. My factory 322 is rebuilt.

[RiKi5156B]

I’ve had a 55 Century all original with completely rebuilt eng,trans,rear axle.Power steering and brakes. Dynaflow worked beautifully. A joy to drive. My current 53 Super resto mod was built by PO found in an Alaska wrecking yard with no engine trans or rear axle. He decided to go with a 4link on stock coils, elcamino rear,sbc, olds cutlass front clip. Although I bought it this way I would never go through that much work when the original version in my opinion was so well engineered. Would it really ride and handle better with a Jag rear,a car that weighs a lot less than your Buick? There’s a point of diminishing returns.

[Beemon]

Might work out, considering that the rear axle isn't loaded hardly as much as the IFS. Most Jag IRS mods I've seen also use aftermarket coil overs, presumably to take up any sag that may occur due to light springs and a heavier rear end. That being said, I have considered this work long and hard on many occasions and my conclusion is that I would rather buy a faster car than attempt to replace the torque tube. Besides, if I keep trying all these go fast gimmicks, I'll never get my car painted.

[BDT91]

Assuming I stay stock, is there a way to put lowering springs in and still go with the Dynaflow/torque tube set up? I’ve been told there isn’t. I don’t need it on the ground but I’d like to drop it 3” or so.

[NC-car-guy]

Parts are available for lowering.  Springs,  spindles,  etc. 

[RiKi5156B]

I found an article in a hot rod magazine years ago that said that 69 ford wagon rear springs dropped 2 inches and bolt in.

[BDT91]

I realize it can be lowered but can I lower it and leave the trans/torque tube stock? I’ve heard that if you lower it, the trans and torque tube no longer seal.

[RiKi5156B]

It’s a ball and socket. A 3 inch drop at the rear axle will be negligible at the socket.

[BDT91]

I sincerely appreciate everyone’s contribution and advice on this thread. This is my first go-round trying to build a car and there are some aspects I’m good at but the mechical/fabrication part is NOT one of them. Sorry if some of these questions seem a little elementary.