Jump to content

Starter Box


GaryP65

Recommended Posts

I think he means the starter foot button/cut-out switch box.  The first thing I would check are for tight connections on the box.  They are difficult to get to.  It may help to remove the two screws that hold it to the toe board and pull it out enough to get a wrench on there.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might try jumping across the big terminals on it and see if it cranks good then. If not it is something else. Put a voltmeter on ground and the cable terminal on the starter and see how many volts are there when you try to start it. If 12 volts is there and it does not cranki properly its probly the Starter Gen.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, platt-deutsch said:

You might try jumping across the big terminals on it and see if it cranks good then. If not it is something else. Put a voltmeter on ground and the cable terminal on the starter and see how many volts are there when you try to start it. If 12 volts is there and it does not cranki properly its probly the Starter Gen.

I'm challenged when it come to electric. So you're saying put my meter on the big terminals on the starter switch?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If using a digital volt meter put either meter lead on the SG terminal (the one with the starter cable on it) and the other meter lead to ground (ground can be the engine block, frame, outer housing of the SG, etc.  Put the lead in an area where paint is missing).  Depending on if your car is hooked up with a positive or negative ground, the meter may read negative volts.  No problem; just switch meter leads or ignore the minus sign.  If using an old volt ohm meter, you may need to swap lead positions to get a positive reading.  One other thing you can do to bypass the foot switch is to use jumper cable direct to the battery (check first to see if it's hooked up as positive or negative ground; if the cable on the "+" terminal of the battery bolts to the transmission cover or frame that means it's positive ground.  If negative terminal does then it's negative ground).  If it's positive ground, connect black jumper cable to "+" and red jumper to minus on battery.  Then connect the other end of red jumper to the SG terminal.  Now when you touch the other end of black jumper to a ground (which completes the circuit to battery "+"), the starter should engage.  If it turns at normal speed then problem is in the foot switch or cables, which you bypassed.  If it still turns slowly the problem lies in the SG (assuming battery is fully charged).  If the car is negative ground, jumper hook up is opposite to above.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It could be the SG.  Have you tried crank starting it?  Or maybe just to verify that the engine has no internal issues, remove the spark plugs and check that it is easy to crank by hand.  It isn't all that hard to remove the SG but you must be careful not to drop the chain into the engine front cover.  There is a procedure on removing it that worked well for me.  If a search doesn't turn it up, I can post a copy.  It is possible to check/replace the brushes with SG installed but access to one of them is quite difficult. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Once I noticed that the switch wasn't doing it, I tried the hand crank and other than the normal compression it seemed fine.

I checked out the brushes some time ago and other than a broken spring which I fixed, all looked good.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, MikeC5 said:

It could be the SG.  Have you tried crank starting it?  Or maybe just to verify that the engine has no internal issues, remove the spark plugs and check that it is easy to crank by hand.  It isn't all that hard to remove the SG but you must be careful not to drop the chain into the engine front cover.  There is a procedure on removing it that worked well for me.  If a search doesn't turn it up, I can post a copy.  It is possible to check/replace the brushes with SG installed but access to one of them is quite difficult. 

The one that's hard to get at is for generating juice.

It's the two top ones that do the starting........thankfully.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have this from the book of information

See photo.... 

So I tried one more time to jump the terminals on the foot switch and it was quiet in the garage (I love that). Once I held it there, I heard a faint 'sizzle' coming from the SG!.

Should I try testing as as per the mechanics manual?

And should I do it while out of the car or not? AND/IF I do, is there power flowing thru the unit?

 

Gwary's scared!

20160605_220628.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before you go any farther get a booster cable and hook one end to the hot side of the battery and the other to the terminal on the SG and see what happens.

If nothing new happens THEN you're looking at removing the SG.

For GOD'S sake be careful separating the chain.

Turn the engine over with the hand crank until the master link is in view on the SG sprocket and turn a bit more until that link is "sort of" on the high side of the sprocket but still fully engaged.

Remove the cotters and stop until you have the both ends of the chain wired with something........a coat hanger works well

Carefully withdraw the link.

Depending on the style of the chain, in addition to the link, there might be two, sort of, half sleeve things that fit inside the chain halves so be careful to not lose them.

If not for the chain pulling the SG wouldn't be a huge deal.

It's still not fun but not horrible either.

Your book will tell you how tightly to re-tension whichever chain you have upon re-installation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, cahartley said:

Before you go any farther get a booster cable and hook one end to the hot side of the battery and the other to the terminal on the SG and see what happens.

If nothing new happens THEN you're looking at removing the SG.

I am not worried about removal, just want to make sure that its nessecary to do so.

For the electrically challanged, you're saying hook the cable to the negative battery terminal to the post on the SG (I have a positive ground system)? Am I hooking the other to the ground?

 

Electric is foreign to me.  Testing is even worse!!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The SG is grounded through the housing so no additional ground is necessary so, yes, connect from the negative battery terminal directly to the SG terminal.

There is no need to connect to the actual terminal or remove the hot wire (black one in the photo)......touch the booster cable to the black wire connector as shown in the photo to see what happens.

SG terminal.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You said you are "electrically challenged" so there probably isn't much you'd be able to do except pull the back cover off and do a visual for broken/over heated wires.

In reality the SG isn't much more than an old series wound brush motor.

I don't suppose there are any old motor repair shops in your area?

I say old because if they haven't been around for a long time don't waste your time....... :wacko:

 

As it happens there is a Model GA SG on ebay right now.the second time around.

It got no bids the first round and it's CHEAP! (the seller is going to lose his posterior on $25 shipping!)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Brothers-Starter-Generator-Model-GA-3804A-12-Volt-for-parts-/381663225578?hash=item58dce6a6ea:g:K0cAAOSwY0lXSkg2&vxp=mtr

 

My '25 has a Model G SG which is not correct for that late a car but after getting things sorted with it I expect it will outlive me.

I have a GA I bought "just because" but have yet to test it. 

I was told by the seller it spun when she put the juice to it.

If those things didn't weigh a ton and cost so much to ship I'd be happy to look at yours for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I appreciate the offer. Thank you.

I found a shop near me that and spoke to a old timer that seemed to know about these units. The commutator was black in some spots  so he suspected a problem. He cleaned it up and tested it and says it works well with no sparks or arcing and works well on both the starting side and the charging side so now I'm lose at what it could be!!

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10amp.

I got it back on and also notice that the chain was very loose so I adjusted that.

 

First push on the foot switch and it turned over . I did notice that the switch needed a quick and decisive push to make it work but now I'm not getting spark to the plugs. I have power to the coil so it might be the condenser. 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...