1931 Plymouth

[51Baldeagle]

Hi guys new kid on the block, I recently purchased a 1931 Plymouth car was garage kept and park in 1962,  I have done some worked to had and got it started well keep you all updated, Q. I hear is it a PA no idea.

[keiser31]

Looks to be a late 1930 U Plymouth to me. A common thing to do in those days was to title the car as the year sold. Some sold late because of the Great Depression. If you could share the FEDCO number with us, we can tell you exactly what you have. The number is on a badge on the dashboard. The 1931 PA had a round edge on the top of the radiator like this one....

Edited May 2, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[keiser31]

51Baldeagle....that is a VERY nice car!! Welcome to the AACA forums. You will learn a lot here. I know I have.

[51Baldeagle]

O.k. so it's a 1930 U model, title as ac1931 im third owner.

[51Baldeagle]

Oops!  You mentioned dashboard I don't remember any badge on  dash indentation on side of door.

 

[keiser31]

So you have an identification number on the passenger side door post?

[keiser31]

Just now, keiser31 said:

So you have an identification number on the passenger side door post?

I guess the 1930 had no Fedco number on the dash.

[ply33]

Yes, 1930 was the start of numeric serial numbers. Should be on the front right (passenger) side door hinge post. I'd expect a number starting at 1500001 if built in Detroit or starting with 9300001 if built in Windsor. The car looks like a later 30-U to me with the oval rear window.

 

Regardless if you find a FedCo number or a numeric serial number, my decoder/lookup tool should tell you what it is.

Edited May 2, 2016 by ply33 (see edit history)

[51Baldeagle]

O.k. body number 80-21749 found that on fire wall, a buddy of mind owns an antique auto parts  he call me that he found the fuel pump and the master cylinder, will replace the pump today, here the ser.#

[keiser31]

You have a 1930 Plymouth 'U'. The numbers started at 1500001 and stopped at 1570188.

Edited May 2, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[51Baldeagle]

Thanks,  keiser31 if you know anyone needs motor parts gaskets, pumps my buddy probably has it from Reo G.M. Ford mopar.

[ply33]

2 hours ago, 51Baldeagle said:

Thanks,  keiser31 if you know anyone needs motor parts gaskets, pumps my buddy probably has it from Reo G.M. Ford mopar.

What is your buddy's business name, website, address, etc.?

[51Baldeagle]

Well his old school no website just word of mouth though a few good men, he inherited the place from his Dad I take him some customers but very selective, just helping him out sell parts.

[51Baldeagle]

O.k. I did start the car but the oil pressure gauge wasn't showing any pressure,  now thinking of dropping the pan myQ.is is this the oil pump or is it inside the pan.

[keiser31]

That would be the oil pump. Does your engine have a round, protruding kind of cylinder near the distributor? If so, that is the pressure relief valve. I would remove and check that first. It's spring-loaded, so remove with caution.

[51Baldeagle]

Man I hate to ask but should I change the oil a quart at a time or juat drain it , what oil should I use.

This are some pucs I just took maybe of some help.

[keiser31]

The acorn-looking protrusion on the block in the second photo is the valve ( I forgot that your distributor was in a different location than mine). Drain the oil all at once. I use 30w non-detergent oil in my 1931 Dodges. I imagine you could do the same.

Edited May 6, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[51Baldeagle]

Thanks keiser31 did take it off  ran out of time this was what I saw, pull the valve out? Didn't come out spring load was  but careful anyway there is a cutter key, after i take it out clean it and reinstall?  Sorry for all the questions. 

[keiser31]

Remove and clean. Do you have an owner's manual for the car?

[51Baldeagle]

I didn't get one gathering info from net  alot of info on Pa, but not model u no idea what ci horse power and so on, there is 174.9 for a 31 dodge with 57 hrp, going to Branes nobles to if I can find a owners manual should have started there first, I really appreciate it for all the info you have given me, Mr. Keiser31 Thank you.

[Spinneyhill]

You need to start from the position of knowing nothing about the condition of the engine. For the oil, drain it then remove the sump. Be prepared to clean out a good layer of sludge. The oil pickup will need a good clean too. Obtain or make a new gasket and reinstall. Put in a 5W or 10W-30 or 40 oil - NOT non-detergent. That sludge is there because of non-detergent oil. There will be "dirt" deposits throughout the engine because of non-detergent oil. A "modern" oil will clean it out over time. There is a long discussion about whether we need zinc for the flat tappets in these engines. I don't get into it, just buy a diesel oil of CI-4 or CJ-4 rating. It contains enough zinc for the tappets. After about 500 miles change the oil, after a run and while the engine is hot.

 

It would not hurt to clean out the pressure relief valve as stated by Keiser31. If it is stuck it will be difficult to get out. Don't stretch the spring!

 

If the oil pickup in the sump is clogged, it might be useful to clean out the pipes from the pickup to the oil pump, too.

 

 

 

 

[51Baldeagle]

Thank you will do, car has 376113 original miles im third owner I just don't want to mess up the engine,  thanks again to you all.

[C Carl]

Drop the pan , and clean everything , as previously  explained. While you are open , it is a good idea to check your bearings. The oil looks very ugly to me , from what I see. That gray color shows the oil to be quite contaminated. If the engine has been sitting with that oil in it for over 50 years , you must examine the bearings. First pull two rod caps , and one main cap. Examine for scuffing and pitting , which may or may not be severe , due to galvanic erosion. Plastigage to see if the clearance is within spec. If these bearings are fine , put it back together. If marginal , you must check all. Your car looks wonderful ! I hope the interior is as nice as the exterior pics. With such a patina , your car is growing old very gracefully. It is a real thrill to find an old car so well preserved. Lube everything with modern synthetic grease , gear oil , etc. Make sure the brakes are working perfectly. The more you drive it the better it will run , and the more you will love the trip back in time these cars give. Drive slowly always. Oh , also , your oil pump may have lost its prime. I hope you didn't run it long. Someone with one of these , or the manual will tell you how to prime the oil pump for startup. All old cars which have sat for years should go through these procedures BEFORE initial re-start. Good luck with your new old car. Keep us up on your progress.  - Carl

[51Baldeagle]

Thanks Mr.Carl, unfortunately rats got to the inside I did stared up but not to long, as soon as I saw the oil guage with no pressure I shut it off, I have no manual so you guys have been my manual im very appreciated for you all help, I im so happy to stumble into this site, still have lots to go but will keep you guys updated my buddy with the old auto parts is looking for a manual for me, Thanks again.

[Spinneyhill]

I pump up some oil after a long sit by turning it over on the starter with the ignition off. Four or five 5 second cranks. At least you get some oil around the engine. The 5W or 10W oil is easy to pump when cold - that is why we use it.

 

When you get to your second oil change, look at the oil you remove. If it has a silver metallic sheen, there is metal in it and further investigation is required.

 

You will have to look at all the brake cylinders before going far. They will probably be seized and need cleaning out at least. Sleeving or replacing is more likely. After a sit that long, they will have some pitting around the pistons. Adjusting them won't help: they will just leak

 

 

Edited May 9, 2016 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[51Baldeagle]

Well I'm back raining cats and dogs I haven't done much I did take the pressure relief valve off, is this it a spring came out very easy my next step is removing the oil pan and clean hoping no metal in oil once that all set and oil pressure shows and motor runs good, master and wheel cylinders brakes are next buddy found me a nos master cylinder.

 

 

[ArticiferTom]

Take a hand suction / pump from auto parts or tractor part store and put fitting with barb in oil journal plug just above acorn . Fill with oil ,hand push in , next journal over is tap of oil gauge, see if gage is working . They dry out and clog  with deposits . Plus you will also lube the whole engine do about 3 tubes full min.. Take over-fill from engine if starting or do when drained . Remove line at gage and two diagonal screws hold gauge.

[51Baldeagle]

Thanks Articfer Tom, we finally had a break from rain suns up, we got a camera inside the oil pan to see if it had oil built up which it did, so we decided to take off the oil pan and check it out glad we did, clean pan took off oil pump prime it oil now at 45. Motor looks cleam and no metal particulars, also clean carburetor, sounds great, 

next master cylinder and wheel cylinders. 

 

 

[51Baldeagle]

Well here I go again had a flat on one of the tires, I change it but I also expand my vocabulary   can i change my rims to wire wheels like yours( 31 )also master clinder is out so will have to replace it or a kit.

[keiser31]

43 minutes ago, 51Baldeagle said:

Well here I go again had a flat on one of the tires, I change it but I also expand my vocabulary   can i change my rims to wire wheels like yours( 31 )also master clinder is out so will have to replace it or a kit.

Yes, you can switch over to wire wheels. You will need to find a good set of wheels and drums. It is a fairly easy process.

[51Baldeagle]

Thanks again I'll stick to original, if I have any problems I'll start looking for the wire really like the look on your car.

[keiser31]

Oh....you will need lug nuts and hubcaps, too. Both of my '31s came with wood spokes. They were both ordered from the factory with wire wheels, but both came with wood spokes. It WAS the Great Depression and they used whatever was available at the time of the build. The previous owner and I changed the blue/black car over to wire wheels prior to my purchasing the car. Now I have one with wood and one with wire.

Edited June 13, 2016 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[51Baldeagle]

I finally ended up taking off the master cylinder what I didn't want came out it was pitted at the end, probably by sitting to long with fuild also the can in front (reservoir) was also leaking from the bottom, we looked for one for a 1931 Plymouth found out it takes a 1930 Plymouth,  will start again looking for one tomorrow, at my buddy place.

[51Baldeagle]

Nice! Keiser 31  I'll keep my eyes open at swap meets who knows I'll ask the previous owner he might have some, update today I replace the kit and thank God it worked, tomorrow going out gor a test drive. 

[ArticiferTom]

Quote

 

The rebuild kit is available at Napa standard 1-1/4" $20 . If your saying cylinder is pitted try honing first . There is a max. then have it sleeved in S/S . Check there are two holes from top to piston ,one is very small and block easy for equalizing ,called compensating hole . A slightly under sized can is available from Freud Container , I think called . you'll have add port on bottom and vent cap with splash guarding. Hagens Hwy . may have whole unit rebuilt to go .

                                         Tom

[51Baldeagle]

Thanks  Articfer Tom, we hone it and my buddy had a kit worked great, now the resavior (can) we emprovice with an old brake fuild can also, took the grand kids for a ride loads of fun.

[hursst]

If you're looking for an owner's manual, you can request a copy (it will be photo copies) from the AACA library, that's where I got my copy.  You would need edition #3, according to your serial number, but good luck finding that.  I have edition #4, which started with car 1540611 in March, 1931, which is the edition at the AACA library.  Try giving them a call, I bet you could just put in an order and pay a nominal fee for copies and postage.  The AACA library is an invaluable resource for us!

[51Baldeagle]

Thanks, hursst will do man if there's info on how change a tire on this wooden spoke rims wow, there's has to be an easier way I can't believe how people back in the day did it, have no instructions,

Thanks guys. 

[keiser31]

34 minutes ago, 51Baldeagle said:

Thanks, hursst will do man if there's info on how change a tire on this wooden spoke rims wow, there's has to be an easier way I can't believe how people back in the day did it, have no instructions,

Thanks guys. 

Try this....do you have the original tire iron? I always stand on the rim on both sides to shrink the rim with the tool. Make certain the valve core is removed from the valve stem.

[51Baldeagle]

O.k. I got that part, but for some reason I can't get the rim with tire on to the rim with the wooden spokes, don't know what im doing wrong, is tire should be put on deflated? I place the valve stem in its hole lock inside the inner rim, but have a challenge aligning the rim, I don't know if I made any sense.