Guest Geno1940 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 In hose water filter? I am looking for source to purchase an in hose watee filter between the engine block and the radiator to filter rust and debris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 http://www.ganofilters.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 For me, the cheapest and best is the toe of a woman's pantyhose. I prefer to use the short ankle-high stockings that women wear with slacks, as they are heavier gauge. Remove top house, push toe into top tank of radiator with a screwdriver HANDLE or other blunt object, wrap selvage around the upper neck, so that water goes thru the mesh. Install before adding any flushing compound. After flushing is complete, use a new stocking because the first one has probably been compromised by the flushing chemicals. After first install, drain off some coolant and check after 300 miles. You will be amazed at the nasty stuff caught which would otherwise be clogging your radiator. To clean, remove and rinse under a hose bib, then reinstall. I've never had one fail on me in service, but I replace when I change coolant every three years. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 How easy is it to check for blockage in an in-hose filter? A hidden filter sounds like a bad idea to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 How easy is it to check for blockage in an in-hose filter? A hidden filter sounds like a bad idea to me.Ya, me too. Don't ya just love the antifreeze mess? Or worse yet, blocked and the car overheats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 It sounds like a pretty bad idea to me. I recall seeing them advertised and sold but there are a whole lot of questions that would have the wrong answers. Opening access to the water jackets, cleaning the radiator, and pulling that mouse nest out of the lower radiator hose is a lot better way to go.Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 (edited) I'm pretty sure the Gano filter (I've never used one) is in a transparent plastic housing. You put it in your upper radiator hose (obviously you need to cut it in the middle somewhere) where you can monitor it. I'd use it right after a flush to catch whatever was knocked loose. A few days of running and you should see it running clearer then you can remove it for a more correct look. Edited February 15, 2016 by Matt Harwood (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 Hidden filters are almost necessary if you will be having your car judged. I've never had a blockage with a stocking, water gets thru the mesh just fine. As I said above, remove and inspect and clean after 300 miles, which will give you a feel for when you should conduct the next remove/inspect/clean operation. The more heating-cooling cycles, the more stuff comes loose and is headed for your radiator I used Ganos (earlier versions) for several years, including one hidden inside a hose, before switching to stockings, and switched not because I'm cheap (I am!) but because... 1. Ganos didn't work well on near-vertical upper hoses; the crud dropped back down into the head. 2. In some cars with a long neck/short hose radiator inlet (Pierce 48s and 80s, for example), I didn't have enough space for a Gano. 3. Despite the two traps in a Gano, it didn't catch the really fine stuff that I find in the stocking. Re Matt's #7, PLEASE put in a filter BEFORE running a flushing agent, lest all the stuff the flushing agent knocked loose become deposited in your radiator. As you can tell, after 15 years I'm a believer in the stockings, but not a zealot. Act on what you believe. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John348 Posted February 15, 2016 Share Posted February 15, 2016 I have used the Gano filter and it is clear, not good for getting judged, but kept a lot of crud from getting a new radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 A couple of those comments are downright scary. Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46 woodie Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 If the filter clogs won't that be like having a stuck thermostat. Once you get your radiator cleaned, how much debris can you have? I have owned several antique cars and never had this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John348 Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 If the filter clogs won't that be like having a stuck thermostat. Once you get your radiator cleaned, how much debris can you have? I have owned several antique cars and never had this issue.I also have owned several and have had this problem after a new radiator core was installed, it seems the very early Chevy 6 cylinder engines seem to have a lot of crud/rust debris in the cooling passages of the cylinder head, and there are no clean out plugs. If the engine has been laying around for awhile (which many were) it starts to "flake" off and circulate. I installed the Gano filter on advice from some early 6 cylinder experts and I was surprised to see the chunks of rust that got trapped, I would have thought the same as you if I did not see it for myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 "Once you get your radiator cleaned, how much debris can you have?" It's not your old (or clean or new) radiator that produces the debris, it's your cast iron block! Let's say you've just rebuilt an engine and the water jackets are clean and there's a pretty, gray coating on them. Good! But give it 20 or 30 heating/cooling cycles, and that gray coating starts coming off and heads for your radiator, and then the continuing rust of the water jackets recommences, even if you use (and should!) anti-corrosion additives, whether a 50% anti-freeze mix or something else like Penncool (formerly Nalcool). To you scientifically minded doubters out there who have some time on your hands, try a stocking filter for 500 miles. After that period, drain down just enough coolant to set the level below the bottom of your upper hose, remove that hose and the stocking, and examine the stocking. Even if you have a brand new rebuilt engine (except for you Franklin and Corvair owners), I'll bet you find crud in there that would otherwise be building up in your radiator. As Bernie and John348 have pointed out, the best solution is to clean out the water jackets and passages in the block and head. That's a clean start, but the process begins anew as soon as the engine is run again. As to potential clogging, the stocking--or Gano--is NOT an install-and-forget solution. The filters simply trap and hold debris generated within your block that would otherwise be deposited in your radiator and slowly build TOWARD a clogged radiator. For the 15 years I've been doing this (and it's not my idea, nor do I sell stockings), I've never had cooling issues--and most of my cars are known for running hot or overheating. Of course maintenance is important: I chemically flush and replace coolant every three years on a schedule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danleblanc Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 A friend of mine swears by the Gano filters also. Here is the installed product on his 38 LaSalle: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Man Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 I went to the home store and bought a clear water filter, acrylic is good to about 325F, 5 micron filter. Bought a couple 3/4" to 5/8" pipe to hose connectors and hung the filter from the radiator support bar. Just unplugged my heater hose and connected the filter. I ran it about 500 miles, filled one filter completely plugged, no harm, it is just the heater core. When I installed the filter I had just steam cleaned out the block, and had the radiator boiled out. The engine runs cooler than I had ever expected now. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I had a shop do some "Driver Restoration" work on my 1937 Special. They said they cleaned the block. They had the radiator sent out to be cleaned and other than the lower cast iron outlet fitting seeping a bit. all was good... This was in summer 2012. They promised to have it ready to drive to the Buick nationals in June 2012. It was delivered to us in September. They could not trust it to be driven 50 miles. After 6 months of "Tweaking" we were finally able to drive it to the 2013 Nationals in South Bend. The car had overheating issues the entire trip. We did short trips within an hour or two from our home and the car still ran hot. I did the normal seasonal flushes etc. When we tried to drive to the 2015 Nationals overheating stopped us after 56 miles. Embarrassing tow home. Apparently leftover crud from the block let loose and plugged the radiator solid. So I pulled the "New"freeze plugs, back flushed the block and radiator several times. My radiator guy could not rod it out. I had a new core made. I Back flushed the block again and used EVAPO RUST to do a thorough cleaning. After all that you bet I put in a filter (GANO). Last September we drove the Buick to the 1936-38 Buick Club Tour of the Nashville area. Water temp rarely went over 160 degrees even though it was over 95 degrees each day of the trip. After 1,555 miles I checked the filter and there was still rust and scale being caught. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 The same fellow with the 1938 LaSalle was who recommended it to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John348 Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 We must remember these early cars were not exposed to anti-freeze/anti-corrosive's until the late 50's at best, just water and alcohol. A stuck thermostat is much cheaper to fix then a clogged radiator, also not every car had a thermostat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Man Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 (edited) This is what my temporary filter looked like. I wanted to get out the small stuff also, this one is good to 5 microns, it cost less then $30. Edited February 17, 2016 by Graham Man (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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