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antifreeze question


nick8086

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Guest AlCapone

Nick / Chris. The ethylene glycol is the cheapest for sure and will do the job just fine. Quite often on sale at Walmart ! There are 3 types and you can google the Prestone site to read about them. They make one concoxion that will not kill animals if they drink it if that is an issue. I use the 50 / 50 premix for convenience. Yes it costs more that was but no fuss no mess. They all have rust inhibitor and water pump lubricant in them. Hope that helps.

Wayne

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For my modern vehicles, I follow the recommended mileage intervals for flushing, unless there is an indication of something wrong with the coolant.

With my collector vehicles, I flush the system and change the coolant whenever the coolant begins to look "muddy". Fresh anti-freeze water mix is translucent whereas "tired" coolant has the "muddy" look and is opaque. If working on an engine cooling system requires draining all of the coolant, I'll usually also flush the system at that time (unless I've flushed it in the last year or so).

I hope that my somewhat imprecise response is of help.

Stay cool,

Grog

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I looked into this a while ago and posted on a thread somewhere here. There is some good info on the web about the stability of antifreeze and anticorrosion chemicals.

Antifreeze breaks down over time. After 2 years or so, some of the chemicals are starting to become harmful to the engine as well as lose their antifreeze effectiveness, so one should change antifreeze every 2 to 3 years.

It is also extremely important that you put in anti-corrosives, which also break down over time. So change every 2 to 3 years.

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The thing that nobody has mentioned is the use of modern solution anti-freeze in the old vehicles. There has been considerable discussion about this before in other forum threads. The safe thing to do is use the Zerex 50/50 'Original Formula' mix. The old vehicles used radiators that had their tanks soldered onto the core. The modern mixes will attack the soldered joints and wreak havoc with the cooling system. Play it safe and use the old, original, Green Zerex formula and you will not have any problems. This mix can be used in any vehicle that uses anti-freeze with no problems whatsoever.

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Wikipedia says this:

"When ethylene glycol is used in a system, it may [emphasis added] become oxidized to five organic acids (formic, oxalic, glycolic, glyoxalic and acetic acid). Inhibited ethylene glycol antifreeze mixes are available, with additives that buffer the pH and reserve alkalinity of the solution to prevent oxidation of ethylene glycol and formation of these acids."

Propylene glycol is replacing ethylene glycol as antifreeze because it is less toxic. However,

"Propylene glycol oxidizes when exposed to air and heat, forming lactic acid.[8][9] If not properly inhibited, this fluid can be very corrosive,[citation needed] so pH buffering agents such as dipotassium phosphate, Protodin and potassium bicarbonate are often added to propylene glycol, to prevent acidic corrosion of metal components. Pre-inhibited propylene glycol solutions like Dowfrost (manufactured by Dow Chemicals, US) and Tonofrost (manufactured by Chemtex Speciality Ltd, India) can also be used instead of pure propylene glycol to prevent corrosion."

For maintenance, Wikipedia says:

"In the absence of leaks, antifreeze chemicals such as ethylene glycol or propylene glycol may [emphasis added] retain their basic properties indefinitely. By contrast, corrosion inhibitors are gradually used up, and must be replenished from time to time."

Wynn's say on their website http://www.wynns.co.nz/show-wynns-news.php?id=22

"As the inhibitors deplete, the formulation loses its balance, and chemicals that once protected certain metals can now attack other metals. Solder bloom is a common result of inhibitor depletion."

They also say that a flush is a good idea during coolant changes to remove all of the depleted coolant from the block etc..

Thus, a good anticorrosive antifreeze additive at 50:50 is about the best you can do, flushed and changed at 2 yearly intervals. Make sure the label says something about the metals it protects. You are mad if you don't include corrosion inhibitors to prevent acidic and galvanic corrosion in your system.

Oh, one more thing. Don't be fooled by colour. Wikipedia again:

Most include "a colored dye (commonly a green, red, orange, yellow, or blue fluorescent) for identification." In my opinion, if you are unusually lucky, all makers of "the green stuff" subscribe to the same convention about what that colour indicates.

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Zerex "original green" is said to be an old formula. Hmmm - it can be interpreted that just the colour is "original". It also says it is a 50-50 mix with demineralised water, i.e. you use only this stuff with no dilution. The demineralised water is a good plan, it means there are no unknown contaminants in their coolant, except what is in your engine. Remember to change it every two or three years.

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I continually flush my cooling system with a non-proprietary mixture that contains 20% elemental oxygen. It works great and no corrosion or freezing problems.

Could not resist.... the devil made me do it.:P

I use the Waterless Coolant that everyone has been talking about. No leaks, no corrosion, no freezing, and it's free!

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I guess the antifreeze companies can provide information for the appropriate product. They say the "Extended Life"-type antifreeze is for cars built after 2000 (see this Forum thread). Further, the waterless-type antifreeze is not recommended by the manufacturer (Evans) for non-pressurized coolant systems. Here is a link to that. It seems the basic ethylene glycol product is the best, though I know collectors who use everything, including water only, and seem happy.

Here is an AACA article that contains links to various writings on this subject.

Phil

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I was using distilled water with Carquest green anti freeze and had no issues. A few years ago I decided to use regular tap water with antifreeze, slowly but surely, my freeze plugs kept rusting away.. I changed the freeze plugs and now use nothing but distilled water...

Did you ever change the coolant? Your core plugs were probably well on the way before you changed. With just water you will have galvanic corrosion where-ever you have disimilar metals. e.g. around the thermostat, water pump shaft, core plugs, radiator, and so on. The distilled water will be disolved-oxygen free for a while but will absorb oxygen at the free surface in the radiator.

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I was using distilled water with Carquest green anti freeze and had no issues. A few years ago I decided to use regular tap water with antifreeze, slowly but surely, my freeze plugs kept rusting away.. I changed the freeze plugs and now use nothing but distilled water...

My mechanic told me to never use the orange anti freeze in anything, old or new....

Your mechanic is very wise. I have seen that stuff turn to jelly in cars where the owners fail to change it with any regularity.

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