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Rear axle change.


Leif Holmberg

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Two weeks ago I was on a crusing not long way from where we live.,I had parked my 1956 Roadmaster Convertible but wasn`t satiesfied with the place so I put in the rear gear on the Dynaflow gear level,and the only thing that happend was a very hard noice from the rear of the car and I couldn`t move the car at all?

I went home and took my Volvo 945 and towed the Buick home.

Next day I removed the rear axle and could see the the splines on the pinion gear and also the splines on the axle shaft between the Dynaflow and the rear axle was totaly gone.

5-10 years ago I bought a complete rear axle from a 1957 Roadmaster just to have as a reserv axle.But the problem was when I measured the axle between the the Dynaflow and the rear axle on the 1957 it was 3 1/2" schorter than the 1956 Roadmaster.

What to do?

O yes, I lengthen the inner and outer tube on the 1957 rear axle 3 1/2" ,and did all the other things that needed to be done to fit on my 1956,the phanard rod bracket needed to be moved,and I used my 1956 triangel rods just becuse to have it ti fit the brakes wires.

I think I get this splines "chrash" just becuse there was no leakage between the Dynaflow and the rear axle,the splines was to dry I think.

I tested my Buick yesterday evening around 70 miles on the road and the rear axle was quiet and worked fine without any noice.

Leif in Sweden

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WOW, I don't think I have ever seen splines worn like that. Has the differential or the transmission ever been swapped out and perhaps no grease applied to the splines during reassembly. Are you sure there there was no misalignment of the shaft and tranny/rear end that over time caused that. I think this is the first time I have ever seen anyone attempt to lengthen a torque tube and shaft also. I tried to find a welding shop that would do it once and they all said they wouldn't touch it. Did you do the welding yourself or job it out. Got pictures of the actual lengthening job being done? If no vibration in the test run, apparently someone is a good welder.

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Yes,I have done it all by myself lenghten and turninglathe,I made tubes to put inside the outer and also the inner tube to made it as stright as I could,and it work very well.I cutted off an spare outer tube so I could put the tubes togeter with the turnlathed tube inside ,and the same on the inner tube.

Why I bought the 1957 rear axle was just becuse I have heard a stange noise when put the rear gear in possision,there was a "click" but I couldn`t recognice what it was,if it was in the Dynaflow,u-joints,rear axle? But now I know better what it was.

Sometimes I wonder if the transmission has been swappet out just becuse there was no "pump"there.This pump are for to pump oil direktly on the pinion-chronwheel.Only Roadmaster have that at least this year.

Leif in Sweden.

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I'd have to think that in order for the splines to shear off like that, there had to have been a looseness and movement in the original fit. The movement caused the splines to wear little by little until they sheard right off.

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I have heard a click when reverse for 5-10 years,and when removed the splines they was very dry but couldn`t find any other problems.

I removed the rear bearing from my 1956 axles and used them again on the 1957 axles, and I made a tool to do that as in the pictures.It worked well and I could use my 7-8 years old bearings,and saved at the moment for about $300,I put the axles in the freez and the bearings as in the picture.That made it easier to put the bearing back on place again.

Leif in Sweden.

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So if I understand you correctly, the original 56 axle failed the front splines and torque tube drive splines 2 weeks ago. You then modified your spare 57 setup and installed it 2 wks later and have road tested it?

Is the pump you referenced in the differential?

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Yes you are right TexasJohn55.It took me a week to do the rear axle change,but after that I had to change the rear wheel bearings too,an that took me a week to do,I had to made the tool too..Yes the pump is in the differential,and it is for oiling the pinion and chrownwheel.

Leif in Sweden.

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A few years ago a friend had this happen to him on a tour in a '56 Special. He heard a loud noise and he said it felt like someone had hit him from behind, and then no driving power to the wheels, and it was pretty much the same issue, except I believe that it was the splines at the back that failed, where it goes into the rear end.

I have heard of people drilling and tapping a grease fitting into the back of the torque tube so that the splines can be lubed. I would be afraid that the partciles of metal would cause more harm than the lube would do good, to do this to my car.

Keith

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Guest Straight eight

Buick had a running change in 1957 for drilling the torque tube and drive shaft and tapping and screwing in a zerk fitting. There was a bulletin with photos.. I worked for a dealer at that time, and remember this like yesterday.

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Straight eight thanks for telling me that.Buicknutty,You can use the same measuring on your 1956 and proberly earlier years too as in the 1957 rear axle I have changed to,I took some photos just to show how it looks on my rear axle now.I measured my old 1956 and the measuring can be done to drill the outer 3/4" hole and also for the "zerk fitting" I think 1/4".See photos.(the hole is coverd with a rubber "gasket".)

Leif in Sweden.

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Edited by Leif Holmberg (see edit history)
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