Dwight Romberger Posted October 5, 2013 Share Posted October 5, 2013 I would like to purchase or have made a wheel puller for the '22-35. Does anyone know the thread size?ThanksDwight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Measure your hub cap.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 I'm going to guess that is around 3 and 3/8ths X 20 threads to the inch. That is a very hard one to find. I had to go from NY to California and buy a parts car to get the one that I have. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted October 6, 2013 Author Share Posted October 6, 2013 Thanks Mark and Dave.I am going to have George McMurtry make one for me. I guess I will send him a cap. I don't trust my measurements for something like this.Dwight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted October 6, 2013 Share Posted October 6, 2013 Good plan..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 I am just going to have to ask why would a person need a wheel puller for an automobile that has full floating rear axles like the Buick has. I realize that the car in question is a 4-cylinder series Buick. My sales literature on the 4-cylindermodels states that these cars have a three quarter floating rear axle. The reason I stated my question like I did in the first sentence is that I have seen requests in the past for pullers for a full floating rear axle. Please explain the application on a three quarter floating axle relative to a puller being needed. I simply have not been around very many 4-cylinder Buicks and never too old to learn.Terry WiegandDoo Dah America Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 I had George make a puller for my '15 truck and he did a great job. Even Dandy Dave used it for one of his projects at a local museum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) Terry,Someone other than me will have to answer your axle question. I don't know. All I know is all the antique cars I own or have worked on or heard about working on, need some kind of puller to remove the rear wheels. Except for some of the wire wheels that have lug bolts just like a modern car.George McMurtry made a puller for my '30. The first wheel I tried it on was on so tight that I put a 3 foot long adjustable wrench on the bolt and stood on it to get it to pop off. That is until I realized in my excitement to try out the puller, I forgot to remove the axle nut! It can off alot easier with the nut off. Edited October 7, 2013 by Dwight Romberger (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Terry,here is a picture how the rear axle looks,the hub is bolted on the "main shaft"therefor he need a puller, and the inner bearing "race"are on the "main housing"and the outer "race" are on the wheel hub,then there are a "wide" roller bearing between those races.I think that`s why they are call that a full floating, just becuse the main shaft just are hold the wheel on place and of course even made it to turn around.(this picture are from a 1927 Std-model but 4 cyl.models constuktions in 1920s almost looks the same.)Leif in Sweden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Actually, in a true "full floating axle", the axle driving the wheel does not carry any of the weight of the vehicle. The only stresses on the drive axle are in turning the wheel. These axles have either 2 tapered roller bearings in the hub, or a timken type roller in older designs that fully carry the load. Dandy Dave!Look here for more info.... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 I agree with Terry. I'm 99% sure the '22 is the same as the '23 6 cylinder.Remove the 6 acorn nuts and slide the whole outer hub and shaft out together (no need to even remove the hubcap or support the vehicle). Be careful, the shaft and outer hub together are heavy and grease coated but they slide right out.Now, if you need to split the shaft from the hub (which there really is no good reason to have to). Remove the hubcap, loosen the large nut on the end of the tapered shaft, then remove the 6 acorn nuts and remove the hub and shaft. Place the hub on two pieces of wood on the top of your large vise jaws with the shaft pointed toward the ground and tap the large nut with a hammer and it will release from the taper in the hub. There is a square key in there to keep track of as well as a mating taper on the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Here you can see the difference between 4 cyl and 6 cyl rear axle.Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Brian demonstrated his full floating axle on the last PWD AfterTour....Thanks Brian, it was enlightening..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted October 7, 2013 Author Share Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) Ok. Let's see if the newbie has this right?I don't need a wheel puller because I can pull out the whole axle? And this will give me access to all the wheel bearings and seals I have to service?Dwight Edited October 7, 2013 by Dwight Romberger (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbbuick22 Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Dwight, You need to use a puller because the axle shaft has a nut on the other end inside the diff housing. Lief's pics show it both the assy pic. and the parts pic. of the axle shaft. The 4 cyl hubcap is under 3" ( 2 3/4 maybe). JB22-6-55 Sport Touring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 That is the way my 1915 Buick is also. You have to pull the wheels and then separate the left and right housings and also the spider cluster to get to the nuts off. Same on Larry Schramms 15 Buick truck. If these nuts were not there, the axles and wheels would just come out of the rearend everytime you went around a corner. On newer axles, the axles come out first and then you have access to the inner nuts that hold the tappered roller bearings and wheel hub assembly. Also by pulling the wheels you will have room to slide the rearend out if needed. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Brian demonstrated his full floating axle on the last PWD AfterTour....Thanks Brian, it was enlightening.....Yup, I watching from a nearby picnic table to see if you guys knew what you were doing. I have to say, you made a good show of it. :cool: Unlike our cars, Brians has the tapered roller bearings and large retaining nuts to hold the wheel and hub assembly on. And then the axle slides in and bolts on which is much like is still used today in trucks of many sizes. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Dwight: My 1925 standard is also different from the 22-23 bigger 6 cars and I had to make a puller to do my brakes and seals. I helped Brian on the PWD after tour(at least my foot did) when he adjusted his axle with a "Shaw Shim". Larry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Good thing Dandy Dave held that picnic table down too, so it didn't float away or move from under that shade tree! Brother Shaw got right down in there and helped make a (soft) Coke can shim to go in the hub to axle shaft taper area (my shaft taper is not in good shape and showed where it had run loose for some time years ago, pounded out the key way and had the key way welded up and the taper re-machined.)I'm certain the two of us blocked Daves view of the 'show' at times. Poor Dave.BTW that repair is still in place. 150 mile drive home and I'd guess, 200 miles since. I have no plans to open things up unless I feel it get loose agian, then I can switch to spare axle parts I have from my spare axle assembly.So I learned someting, the 4s and 6s have a different axle design. Good to know.On the 6s, that rear wheel bearing is still very common and very cheap (I think 50 mm wide 200 mm diameter but don't quote me, but it is metric, I remember that and big) Its a dual row ball bearing, used many places still. Go to you local bearing supply store and buy it for a fraction of what the 'Old Car Bearing' people want to charge you.When I bought my car 16 years ago the rear bearings sounded like I was grinding coffee. All the balls were shot. Remember to clean out all that hardened ball material that is in there and the old nasty grease too so it does not get into your new bearings. The large thin bearing retaining nut (with a star eared keeper washer under it) is left hand thread on one side and right hand thread on the other. Be careful, that large thin bearing retainer nut holds the whole wheel/hub/shaft to the axle/car, should it come off, you will look like a bad cartoon episode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted October 8, 2013 Author Share Posted October 8, 2013 Thanks for everyone's advice. If I understand properly, I still have to buy a wheel puller. And, I am going to send a hub cap to George McMurtry to make a puller.Correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 Thanks for everyone's advice. If I understand properly, I still have to buy a wheel puller. And, I am going to send a hub cap to George McMurtry to make a puller.Correct?Yep, You got it. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 (edited) Good thing Dandy Dave held that picnic table down too, so it didn't float away or move from under that shade tree! Brother Shaw got right down in there and helped make a (soft) Coke can shim to go in the hub to axle shaft taper area (my shaft taper is not in good shape and showed where it had run loose for some time years ago, pounded out the key way and had the key way welded up and the taper re-machined.)I'm certain the two of us blocked Daves view of the 'show' at times. Poor Dave. LOL... Actually it is one of the very first times I have not been commondeered into service to get greasy while everyone else looked on. Usually I'm the first guy they grab around here. And was there not three of you to block my view? Larry, Curly, and Mo. .. Ahh I, Mean Larry, Mark, and youself Brian? It was my honor to hold the picnic table down and keep it from tumbling over on top of you guys. For once in my life it was fun to watch instead of crawling around in the grease and mud. Beside, you guys had the situation well under control, and did not need a comic like me in the mix taste testing the Texas refinery flavored grease. LOL... Dandy Dave! Edited October 9, 2013 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwight Romberger Posted October 9, 2013 Author Share Posted October 9, 2013 Yep, You got it. Dandy Dave! Thanks Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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