1954 Century 2 DR HT (66R) 3-speed, ‘54 Muscle

[MrEarl]

1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

  Believe I would have used a SMALLER one.

 

  Ben

 

Do you mean you would have used one smaller dimension wise or micron filter wise? it is only 4 1/2 inches long by 1 inch diameter and that actually was one reason I chose it, not so "fat" as many and fit the area where I wanted to install it.   If you're speaking of micron filter size, it's at 100 microns and  I considered it as a prefilter for use  before the Wix one on the carb which is 74.  ???

[Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel]

Good call on that fuel line.  Can't have any Hot Roddin' with that tiny orifice choking back your fuel.

Looks like something I might task with the Cincinnati Driveline and Hydraulics shop if I were working on it.

Cheers, 

Ted

[old-tank]

10 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Went ahead and replaced the currently functioning but 20 year old fuel pump with a newly rebuilt one today.  I had also purchased a new "correct with brass fittings" rubber fuel line from CARS. But after comparing it to the one that is currently on it and it being in good condition I will be returning the new one. I really didn't like the inside diameter of the new one.  I cleaned the old one and sprayed it down good with Protectant 303. Will likely outlast me.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1953-1956-Buick-Olds-V-8-Fuel-Line-Correct-with-Brass-Fittings-OEM-1161564/173189704321

 

 

 

You are right about the new replacement, but the old one is useful only for comparing fitting size.  Get some barb fittings and some new hose and put some ugly clamps to hold it if you are going to drive the car or even if you intend to store it inside.  It ain't gonna last!

[AGHodge]

MrEarl,

 

Thank you for revisiting this post and for sharing all the new pics. I really enjoy all of your insight and knowledge about Buicks. Your 54 Century is simply beautiful! The 1954 model year means a lot to me as it was the year my parents were married in Birmingham, Alabama. 

 

Regards,

 

Greg

 

 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

😁😁

 

 You DID keep the "pancake" filter.   Didn't you?

 

  Ben

[MrEarl]

12 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

😁😁

 

 You DID keep the "pancake" filter.   Didn't you?

 

  Ben

No sir, it was the type without the bolt that allows it to be taken apart and cleaned so I had no idea what the screen inside it looked like, could have been rusted through. Since it's hidden behind the carb and the fact I don't anticipate ever showing the car for points anyway, I went with the Wix.  https://www.carid.com/wix/complete-in-line-fuel-filter-mpn-33081.html

 

[Elpad]

On 3/26/2021 at 3:26 PM, MrEarl said:

Like I said, the old boy is starting to show it’s “older restoration” with some small bb size rust bubbling popping up  especially in the rear quarters. This was a northern car so is to be expected I guess. It was undercoated when new thankfully so floors are good but inner rockers not so good. Turning into a 10 footer but tha’s fine with me. 
I don’t think I have ever posted these. 
 

the original dealer invoice 

 

Note what he traded in. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If only these prices were still good today, I could restore a Roadmaster 

 

 

I have receipts for paint and supplies and suspect that the owner did the body work and paint. Although the finish definitely looks professional 

 

 

Looks that the original owner did not need the 15% discount on Insurance! I was a year and one month old so I don’t know if insurance was required or mandated back then.

[NC-car-guy]

I hope you've been driving this around ?

[MrEarl]

Not a lot, needs rear bearings and seals. 

[billbuickgs]

Thats ah Buick for ya ! It leaves a trail so us old guys can find our way home !!!

Bill LOL

[old-tank]

46 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

Not a lot, needs rear bearings and seals. 

Axle bearings?....easy fix.  Differential and/or pinion bearings?...not so much.

[MrEarl]

2 hours ago, old-tank said:

Axle bearings?....easy fix.  Differential and/or pinion bearings?...not so much.

yeah just axle. But while I’m at it I want to re-replace that little seal behind the torque ball that I KNOW I didn’t put in backwards when I changed out the ball, but it’s been leaking and filling the torque tube since. 🤬

[old-tank]

Do it before it gets hot outside.  Or wait until your shop is air conditioned.

 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

3 hours ago, MrEarl said:

yeah just axle. But while I’m at it I want to re-replace that little seal behind the torque ball that I KNOW I didn’t put in backwards when I changed out the ball, but it’s been leaking and filling the torque tube since. 🤬

 

 This is a standard, right?   If the torque tube is filling the transmission must be EMPTY.

 

  Ben

[MrEarl]

Just now, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

 This is a standard, right?   If the torque tube is filling the transmission must be EMPTY.

 

  Ben

Filling was an exaggeration. When I pull the screw from the Willie hole in the torque tube, I get a couple tablespoons full of fluid,  so yeah have to keep a close watch on the tranny fluid. 

[MrEarl]

1 hour ago, old-tank said:

Do it before it gets hot outside.  Or wait until your shop is air conditioned.

 

Actually too close quarters in the old barn where she is now to allow pulling of the axle so yeah, in a couple months she’ll be moved into the new garage, plenty of room AND AC

[old-tank]

1 hour ago, MrEarl said:

Filling was an exaggeration. When I pull the screw from the Willie hole in the torque tube, I get a couple tablespoons full of fluid,  so yeah have to keep a close watch on the tranny fluid. 

Watch the level in the rear end too if you keep draining it.  A defective pinion seal will allow fluid into the torque tube at a level even with the filler plug below the level of the drive shaft which needs no attention.  To be sure in your case since the fluids are the same put a dye in one or the other and see which it is.

Edited April 27, 2023 by old-tank (see edit history)