Jump to content

'64 - tranny doesn't kickdown to 1st?


rivolution

Recommended Posts

Hi gang,

My '64 has an aftermarket carb (Edelbrock 750). I had no kickdown for a while, so I recently fabricated a simple bracket and hooked up one of these "pull-type" B&M downshift switches:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-20297

It now works well on the freeway, downshifting to 2nd (and staying in 2nd!) until about 70mph.

But for some reason, it won't kick down to 1st. If I'm cruising casually around town, around 30 mph, and then step on it, it will kick down to 2nd but not down to 1st. 1st gear is good up until about 40mph, so I have no idea why it's not kicking all the way down.

Any thoughts? Is this an oddity of the ST400 tranny?

thanks for any info,

jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had issues with my ST400 downshifting into first, also. I have not had enough time to dedicate to tracking down the tuning issue, but my guess is adjusting the vacuum modulator on the trans. Will play with this in the coming weeks and let you know what I find.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had issues with my ST400 downshifting into first, also. I have not had enough time to dedicate to tracking down the tuning issue, but my guess is adjusting the vacuum modulator on the trans. Will play with this in the coming weeks and let you know what I find.

ST400 transmission have an electric kickdown. The vacuum modulator holds upshifts. On the '64 it's controlled by the roller on the carb linkage and the switch it activates that sits on a bracket held in place with the intake manifold bolts. Yellow wire is the hot wire, the solenoid is internally grounded. It's on the same circuit as your windshield wipers. You should be able to hot wire the solenoid with the engine off and hear the solenoid activate inside the transmission.

If you've gone aftermarket, you'll just have to trace the entire setup to see if juice is getting to the solenoid. At what speeds are you trying to get it into 1st gear? It could be that you're mechanically locked out. Can you manually shift into low at the speed you want it to happen electronically?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you've gone aftermarket, you'll just have to trace the entire setup to see if juice is getting to the solenoid. At what speeds are you trying to get it into 1st gear? It could be that you're mechanically locked out. Can you manually shift into low at the speed you want it to happen electronically?

thanks Ed,

I know my kickdown switch works because it properly downshifts to 2nd on the freeway below 70mph or so. It didn't do this before I installed the switch.

That's why I'm so puzzled that it doesn't downshift to 1st at lower speeds. I have not found a way of manually getting it down into 1st after it's gone to 2nd or 3rd. If I shift to "L" and slow down below ~10mph, it will go to 1st.

Ed, does your '64 go down to 1st, either manually or via the kickdown switch?

jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only as you say, at certain road speeds.

You can control upshifts manually though. With the selector in L, start out. When it's time to shift into 2nd , put the selector in D, let it shift then pull the selector back to L. You can hold 2nd gear until you manually shift to D again for 3rd gear.

Try manually shifting to low when you think you should be able to get low with the kickdown. If it won't work manually, it probably won't work electronically. When I get some time, I'll read up on the trans in my chassis manual and see what's said about the operation.

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...
On 5/25/2013 at 11:50 AM, rivolution said:

 I recently fabricated a simple bracket and hooked up one of these "pull-type" B&M downshift switches:

Hey guys,

I recently picked up my 64 Riviera and I'm working through the manual trying to identify this cluster-f of wires that have just hanging loose under the hood. As I was trying to find out what this single yellow wire that is just hanging loose under the hood in my chassis manual I just purchased, I'm pretty sure that i need to purchase the missing transmission kick down switch since i dont have a switch where the drawing says i should have one. But I'd love to see how you fabricated the bracket to allow for the aftermarket switch since I cannot seem to find one for sale anywhere except for Ebay and it isnt in really good of a shape. I'm learning quickly that my definition of "complete original 64 Buick Riviera for sale" and his definition of "COMPLETEly original 64 Buick Riviera" are not the same thing.....😂

Edited by M. ALEMAN
Added info (see edit history)
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The way the '64 trans. works. 1st. CANNOT be activated by the electrical kick-down switch until about 15MPH with 3.07 gears. Manually shifting to L it WON.T go into 1st. until between 15-20MPH. This is the way my '64 works since new. I KNOW because I'm the ORIGINAL OWNER.

 

Tom T.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To get the OE kickdown to work on a 64, you need an OE 64 carb.  The 64 kickdown works off a plunger style switch which is activated by a roller on the carb linkage.

 

Edit: There's  a complete 64 switch, bracket, and wires on ebay right now being sold by Bestoffercounts.  It's dirty and the orange rubber boot is cracked but.....

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep. This 64 has a 4105 Edelbrock on it. So I guess I need to find an original carb for it and the kick down switch. Yeah RivNut, that was the kick down switch I found on eBay. I know he says it works but it doesn't look like it works.. i might just wait to see what else I can find at a later date. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, M. ALEMAN said:

Yep. This 64 has a 4105 Edelbrock on it. So I guess I need to find an original carb for it and the kick down switch. Yeah RivNut, that was the kick down switch I found on eBay. I know he says it works but it doesn't look like it works.. i might just wait to see what else I can find at a later date. 

I can't find the guy's name right now, but the the guy who does his eBay business as BESTOFFERCOUNTS actively advertises in the Riview.  Find his ad in the Riview and call him about the switch.  From having talked to him previously, he seems to be a straight shooter.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will add to my previous post. I was in the doctor's office and was going off the top of my head. James Kehr, e-mail:  james@bestoffercounts.com 215-767-0845 I have purchased several things from James. A couple of times it was an "I need it now" situation. He worked with me to get what I needed when I needed it and did not gouge me because I was in a pinch. Best to call James as he is super busy and sometimes it takes awhile for him to get back to you. Contacting him with a message through e-bay seems to be a good way to contact also.

 

Bill

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  At the ROA meet there was a fellow who needed a complete power steering pump, pulley and mounting brackets for his `65 Riv. Apparently James had supplied one via Next Day Air so he could have it installed and make the drive to the meet but whoever installed it left the pulley loose which destroyed the replacement pump shaft and pulley. After deciding what parts were needed we called James for another pump well into the evening. He showed up the next day with parts in hand and Tom Telesco did the installation. James and Tom stepped up to the plate...good to know we are surrounded by stand up guys,

 

Tom Mooney

 

PS I was looking for a `64 carb for a friend a month or so ago and James didnt have one...but worth a try as I believe he actively aquires parts cars

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jon at the Carburetor shop lists one in his carbs for sale but the list does not state the condition. Carter AFB #3665.  If you find the correct carb for a 1964 Buick with the 401 engine, the carbs are the same except for a couple of replaceable parts. Things like jets, etc.  Perhaps a difference of .002".  Something you might never notice by the seat of your pants. But the external features would be the same.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...