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Spring has sprung?


DAVES89

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Although we woke up to about an inch of snow on the ground, [it will hit 50* today so will all melt] I got the 'vert out of storage. So the work begins.

Tuesday it goes over to my buddies for a once over which includes, Delco coil pack, Cleaning of the IAC, Seafoam/plenum, Changing of all the vacuum/radiator hoses, install of new speakers [front/rear], install of the backlit Trofero window switches [thanks kdirk], and install of MP3 lead and radiator fan lead [thanks Mc_Reatta]. Also am ordering the Sequential light set and then doing the Sylvania light restoration of the rear tail light.

The Red goes in for a repaint of the hood and head light covers due to stone chips, and then different tires. And then should be road ready.

The Black just got a new water pump and intake manifold gasket and will be going to sleep for 6 months [till I need it for fall].

I am planning on the trip to South Bend for the reunion. Right now I am thinking the 'vert goes, but maybe the Red gets a last shot at the bright lights.

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A bunch of 95-99 (8th generation) Riviera owners installed sequentials purchased from www.webelectronicproducts.com. They said if anyone ran into trouble while installing, a call directly to the company solved their problem post haste. I believe most bought the generic 3 light per side model. I bought a set for my 91 Reatta but have yet to install.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

The issue with the install in a Reatta is that for redundancy purposes one of the three brake/turn lights is powered via a separate circuit than the other two. Just have to be careful where you you tap into the harness to get the signal.

A search should bring up a past thread that worked thru an installation.

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Guest steveskyhawk

We had 80s and 90s in February but it normally cools of a little in the spring. I get to see snow on the mountain tops where it belongs.

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Last Monday and Tuesday we played golf in Columbia in short sleeved shirts.

Thursday we had sleet hitting us at the Charlotte Auto Fair but Friday was nice.

Today we drove three cars,my driver was an AH 3000 convertible with the top down to a British car show in Columbia.

When I get back home next Tuesday we will still have about 10 inches of snow on the ground.

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Although we woke up to about an inch of snow on the ground, [it will hit 50* today so will all melt] I got the 'vert out of storage. So the work begins.

Tuesday it goes over to my buddies for a once over which includes, Delco coil pack, Cleaning of the IAC, Seafoam/plenum, Changing of all the vacuum/radiator hoses, install of new speakers [front/rear], install of the backlit Trofero window switches [thanks kdirk], and install of MP3 lead and radiator fan lead [thanks Mc_Reatta]. Also am ordering the Sequential light set and then doing the Sylvania light restoration of the rear tail light.

The Red goes in for a repaint of the hood and head light covers due to stone chips, and then different tires. And then should be road ready.

The Black just got a new water pump and intake manifold gasket and will be going to sleep for 6 months [till I need it for fall].

I am planning on the trip to South Bend for the reunion. Right now I am thinking the 'vert goes, but maybe the Red gets a last shot at the bright lights.

Went out this afternoon, [weather was nice and this is my work to do] and cleaned the MAF sensor, idle air control, and the butterfly in the intake. I could see no sense in cleaning the plenum as the intake manifold gasket and valve cover gaskets are leaking. So when those are removed my buddy can clean those. The hoses [radiator and vacuum] are after market so that looks good. The rear tail light is still very clear so that is off my list for now. With the money not spent on this work I will apply it to my body shop friend [he actually dated my oldest daughter and works for the local Buick dealership] to do some "walk around touch up".

Still really happy with the car. However I did notice a couple of weird things. While I have a Reatta owners manual I have a Riv. owners manual cover. So I will be on the look out for a different cover next time I am in the salvage yard.

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)
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Today we are getting a perfect rainstorm. It is a nice gentle rain that the yards can soak up yet strong enough to wash the salt off the roads.

Just in time too, because I just got the Red out to take to get painted [already done and back] and tomorrtow the 'vert goes over to my buddy's for mechanical work. He wants to start on the intake and the valve covers first. I would have started on the electricals but he's the boss!

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This weekend I replaced the transmission in the Trofeo and the cradle bushings, for 200,000 the bushings were not rusted out still had traces of anti seize. The transmission on the other hand was a bear. The bushings made a world of difference in handling. Now it is ready for the next 100,000. -Hit 80 today.

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Just got back from my Buddy's house. We replaced the coil pack, intake manifold and valve cover gaskets. Swapped out the serpentine belt and the little coolant hose at the water pump, plugs and wires.

This car is really nice, I am impressed. For a 'vert it is quiet, and handles great. Ride is good. It's a Reatta [of course], but just seems to be different. Maybe because it is so lightly used in comparison to the other two coupes.

One question I do have on the 'vert. It applies to the actuators. They do not lock the car when put in drive and work poorly when I use the remote [factory]. We will be going in the door next Tuesday to address the speakers and the Trofero back lit switches, and I would like to fix this.

Any ideas?

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Guest Mc_Reatta

If they fire, they are probably fine electrically so they probably just need lubrication. Check the rubber grommet in the end of the arm to make sure it's intact. If not there will be limited movement of the latch and it won't lock or unlock completely.

Lube the arm where it goes into the solenoid, (under the rubber boot), the pivot point where it connects to the transfer rod going back to the latch, the guide points, and the arms at the rear that work the latch. You will be able to feel the stiffness go away when you hit the right spots when manually working the pivot point arm.

May need to clean the old gunked up lube off ,first before re-lubing. I use spray white lithium grease.

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If we could get some pictures of where and what to do properly lubricate the lock actuators it would make a good tutorial. This is a common problem. I need to do lub my locks. I have to push the lock button two or three times to get the door locked all the way.

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Thanks guys. That's just it they don't fire. Is it possible both are bad? I think I will have two available for when we take the doors off [to do the speakers and light switch]. Also I noticed the little light bulb in the door doesn't light up either.

Ronnie I will try to get some pictures, it would be a great tutorial for a common problem.

I will say this... the illumination of the '88/89 instrumentation seems to be brighter then the '90. Also a lot of buttons to get used to. [temperature and radio, everything on the door].

I know, I know I'm starting to sound like an old fart not interested in changing. I just realized of the last 6 cars I owned 3 were Roadmasters and now Reattas. All were exactly the same except for this '90.

8 years with Roadmasters and 6 with the Reattas...

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Guest steveskyhawk

In consideration of the time spent removing the door panel and vapor barrier, I would lube the door lock linkages AND replace the actuators. They do get tired after the first 20 years. Just because they "fire" is no assurance that they will have the power to lock and unlock the doors reliably. They arent very expensive and can be purchased anywhere. They were used on many GM cars

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Guest Mc_Reatta

If they don't fire, then they might both be bad, but with other symptoms, you may be looking at a splice under the seat or a bad relay.

In a 90, the relay is behind the shroud on the outside wall of the driver's footwell in the harness. The probable splices are the gray or tan wires under the drivers seat. The orange wires carry the 12 volts to the door switches, but then the RKE should still lock and unlock the doors fine.

You can test an actuator by applying 12 volts to the contacts in both directions. One way will lock, the other way unlocks.

Don't forget to lube the window regulators and tracks while your in there too.

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I used the remote and they work real slow [i have to press the button 2-3 times to make the door lock and then the same to unlock] Maybe they are real gunked up which is why the doors don't lock when I put it in gear and I don't hear them try to lock.

Hope it's not the splices...

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Guest Mc_Reatta

So they do fire.

Does using the switch on either door panel elicit the same sluggish response?

If you use the manual lever next to the switch, is it really hard to move?

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So they do fire.

Does using the switch on either door panel elicit the same sluggish response?

If you use the manual lever next to the switch, is it really hard to move?

Using the electronic switch on either side is sluggish. The manual lever on drivers side is very hard to move, the passenger side not nearly so, but harder then on the Black. Tried the key in the "on" position, foot on brake, put car in 'Drive". No noise from actuators. Tried this several times.

I'm thinking that is because everything is so stiff. I did order new actuators to have on hand.

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Tried the key in the "on" position, foot on brake, put car in 'Drive". No noise from actuators. Tried this several times.

I'm thinking that is because everything is so stiff. I did order new actuators to have on hand.

Unlikely. More likely that you have a car that was programmed to not do that at the dealer.

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...Tried the key in the "on" position, foot on brake, put car in 'Drive". No noise from actuators. Tried this several times.

I'm thinking that is because everything is so stiff...

Locking and unlocking of the doors when you put the car in gear is controlled by the keyless entry module. The module has to get a signal from the trans position switch before it will send a signal to the door lock relay to lock or unlock the doors. The module or the trans switch could be the problem, or the wiring could be bad.
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Unlikely. More likely that you have a car that was programmed to not do that at the dealer.

I will review what Ronnie says, but I have to ask, is it possible to program the car to not lock when put in gear and if so how do you change it back to working when putting the car in gear.

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I will review what Ronnie says, but I have to ask, is it possible to program the car to not lock when put in gear and if so how do you change it back to working when putting the car in gear.

I know my '94 Roadmaster can be programmed (at the dealer according to the owners manual), and I imagine you can probably do the same through the bcm inputs in the Reatta. Though it could be as simple as unplugging the shifter switch that Ronnie mentioned.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

If it makes you feel any better, it's still too cold for me to jump into my pool yet. I usually am in by mid to late March. But it's hot enough to make me sweat working on the Reattas.

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I hit a few golf balls this morning but couldn't find them. Maybe an orange ball would have helped.
Jim, I guess having snow this time of year is something that you get used to. I hope I never have to. But like they say... there's no place like home.
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I am told we got 17 inches of snow which is unusual. We do get snows in April but not this much.

I guess we were due though, the last two years I was riding my Gold Wing in early March and continued through summer.

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