Ron Lawson Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 Since going into semi retirement I have been able to become more involvedin our local Car Club.Its great that I can now interact and swap yarns (chew fat) and discuss problems and sollutions with other members One of our guys Jack has a 1916 build DB I preseme this is actually a 1917 model We need photos of the guages,the radiator fan,the carburettor,and the rear tail light Thank you in advance Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 Ron does this help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 (edited) Ron these are from the Nov 1916 edition of the book of information, the book is too crisp and clean to put in a scanner. I can get a better picture of the actual gauges in necessary, arent they Jones Mansville? Up until serial number such and such unless I am mistaken. Better pictures are possible without flash if it would help. Can find a picture of tailight, just need to look but maybe someone here will beat me too it. I sent you an e-mail the other day, no response, I think it was your wifes e-mail addy. I have some questions on an un-related topic if you dont mind. ThanksEdit: Yes Johns or Jones Manville up until car no 22810 Edited February 1, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 On the tailight we would need to know serial number of car in order to pinpoint what lamp and I suppose as well what speedo you do need a picture of, there were several variations of the tailiamp according to my literature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 Thankyou Jason, I have spoken to Jack and he will contact me later today with his car chassis# Is the book that you have suplied the information from still avaliable in reproduction? Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 I guess maybe again it is going to depend on serial number but Myers have some versions. Myers Early DodgeGot your e-mail, will respond this evening after work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 Hi Jason,The chassis # of jacks car is 116310 and the engin# is 167680 Hope this helps with your investergating Thankyou Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundog99 Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 Hi Ron,I have a an original 1915 to1919 illustrated Part book (up to car number 350000) I will scan the relevant pages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted February 1, 2013 Author Share Posted February 1, 2013 Gee Thanks a lot Anthony. Look forward to receiving them. Jack will be very greatful Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 1, 2013 Share Posted February 1, 2013 (edited) I have an early one as well but for some reason do not think the pictures will give you what your friend may need but also look forward to seeing them as well. Edited February 2, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 hi sounds like an early 1917.... Should have I believe a Roller Smith amp gauge, Johns Manville white face speedo (if it has the pointed egg shaped cut out in the dash). Will also then need speedo bezel to trim it. Oil pressure gauge with early spade indicatorThe carb and fan are on my 1918 but the same as on a 17. bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 (edited) Hello Bob, I have some questions, 1-You said.... Should have I believe a Roller Smith amp gauge..........This is the first that I remember seeing one of these, how does this operate, I see a white area that says off at this point. 2-You said......Johns Manville white face speedo.........I think all of the Johns Manville are white faced, is this correct?3-You said .........if it has the pointed egg shaped cut out in the dash). Will also then need speedo bezel...........Were some of the Johns Manville not egg shaped, I am assuming there were two different styles, one egg shaped the other not and only the egg shaped one requires a bezel ? 4- Is it safe to assume that the egg shaped one is the one that carried the mileage reset deal like you show here? What is the little door for to the immediate left of the reset wheel all within the egg shape? 5- The small finger pull deal just below where your key is dangling, what is that, at first I thought it was maybe your priming pump but I think I am mistaken. 6- Where is your generator, it looks like you have some sort of omission plate covering the hole, I have never seen that. 7- what is the deal just to the right of your carb, after thinking it over I would assume that is your oil fill with a hinged cover of some sort but that is a very big hole. 8- This car would carry the aluminum rear engine support/oil pan deal, is that correct? That is one of my favorite colors. Thanks for your time and great pictures !If you have the time I would like to know what history you have for the car, being a military man myself I do appreciate very much these vehicles and that time period. Edited February 2, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted February 2, 2013 Author Share Posted February 2, 2013 Jason, The ring pull thingy is the choke. The ring is sttached to a flat bar that has ratchet type teeth on the lower side and these catch on the dash panel to hold the choke in position Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 (edited) Thanks Ron, makes sense, I would not have guessed that, cant get any simpler than that, whatever happened to those times and oh yeah, it was no good because it would not break!Sent you that e-mail, dont know if maybe your wife did not let you know that it is there or if you are trying to come up with some answers but either way it is there. Edited February 2, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72caddy Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 1930 (Jason) some answers that I can supply:#2: Jone Mansville also had a black faced speedo that looks just like this one. It was used around 1918-1920. The model number is 115H and is left hand drive. I know because it took me a while to find one. Ron, I believe I have one of these white faced speedos and I am willing to sell. Let me know if your friend is interested. Don't think I have a bezel.#3: The shape of the dash cut-out went to a simple circle but then they just drilled/cut a hole for the trip reset. So later cars did not need the bezel. The black faced JM speedo ussed a simple rod that protruded from the dash for the trip reset (not a wheel). So the bezel is unique.#7: Yes, that is the oil fill tube. The top hinge is to the left and it opens to reveal a perforated cone screen. Just open and add you oil. Need to be bug as it is hard to fill it because of the location. Fill until the rod and cylinder number one is between the casting marks!I can supply photos of this stuff it you want more visuals.Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 hi will answer some fast as I am short on time..Roller Smith would read off in center and charge and discharge on either side as engine runs and gets up to speed....This is the ammeter. Not sure re JM speedos you are likely correct that all are white face. To accomodate the trip reset the cut out is pointed oval unlike say on a 1918 or later which were simply round and the speedo mounted directly to the dash with no bezel.Finger deal is the choke rod on early cars .The "18 has NO starter generator it is crank start magneto ignition NO other electricals it is a 1918 US army light repair truck one of 4 left in existence...only 8000 miles!! Yes normal aluminum oil pan bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 (edited) 1930 (Jason) some answers that I can supply:#2: Jone Mansville also had a black faced speedo that looks just like this one. It was used around 1918-1920. The model number is 115H and is left hand drive. I know because it took me a while to find one. Ron, I believe I have one of these white faced speedos and I am willing to sell. Let me know if your friend is interested. Don't think I have a bezel.#3: The shape of the dash cut-out went to a simple circle but then they just drilled/cut a hole for the trip reset. So later cars did not need the bezel. The black faced JM speedo ussed a simple rod that protruded from the dash for the trip reset (not a wheel). So the bezel is unique.#7: Yes, that is the oil fill tube. The top hinge is to the left and it opens to reveal a perforated cone screen. Just open and add you oil. Need to be bug as it is hard to fill it because of the location. Fill until the rod and cylinder number one is between the casting marks!I can supply photos of this stuff it you want more visuals.Richard#2- I thought that I had read here in the past that there was a black faced as well, thanks for the info. # 3- This for the most part makes sense to me now, thanks, can you ( or someone ) look at the page below and explain/clarify to me what the numbers under the different instrument boards and other parts mean. I have not yet mastered how to read the 27 Master parts book yet but the way I am looking at it I am not seeing them as part numbers. Maybe I am just confused.I can post any addit. page that may be needed to clear this up#7-Ok, clear as day too me, thanks again Edited February 2, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 2, 2013 Share Posted February 2, 2013 hi will answer some fast as I am short on time..Roller Smith would read off in center and charge and discharge on either side as engine runs and gets up to speed....This is the ammeter. Not sure re JM speedos you are likely correct that all are white face. To accomodate the trip reset the cut out is pointed oval unlike say on a 1918 or later which were simply round and the speedo mounted directly to the dash with no bezel.Finger deal is the choke rod on early cars .The "18 has NO starter generator it is crank start magneto ignition NO other electricals it is a 1918 US army light repair truck one of 4 left in existence...only 8000 miles!! Yes normal aluminum oil pan bobThanks Bob, I would like to see that ammeter in operation, I can understand now by your desc. why they call it a roller. I did not know that magneto equipped D.B did not carry a starter/gen. I guess I better shut up now or else I will reveal how much I do not know concerning these older magneto equipped vehicles That is very interesting though Bob, I would never have guessed. I would like to see more of the truck when you have the time, I am as you may know fascinated by these old Dodge Graham trucks. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hiwell sort of right Early DB vehicles with mags DID have batteries and starter generator. ONLY, to my knowledge, did the 1918 army repair truck work with a fixed starter crank and no battery or starter generator. Most all US Army vehicles were similarly equipped. Makes sense no need to worry about dead batteries in the field. and all lighting was kerosene or acetyleneI don't t want to further hijack the original post so if there is interest in this truck maybe we should start a separate threadbob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 3, 2013 Share Posted February 3, 2013 Hiwell sort of right Early DB vehicles with mags DID have batteries and starter generator. ONLY, to my knowledge, did the 1918 army repair truck work with a fixed starter crank and no battery or starter generator. Most all US Army vehicles were similarly equipped. Makes sense no need to worry about dead batteries in the field. and all lighting was kerosene or acetyleneI don't t want to further hijack the original post so if there is interest in this truck maybe we should start a separate threadbobAgain I had no idea, now I understand also what you meant when you said no other electrics, I would never had guessed kerosine or acetylene either. When you have time to show some pictures of the truck ( lots of pict ) than please start a new thread, I am very interested in hearing more about these trucks!I would like to know how you came upon the truck and any other history as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted February 4, 2013 Author Share Posted February 4, 2013 Does anyone know if the Smith Roller Battery Guage is still avaliable from a supplier Thanks Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72caddy Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Regarding the dash scans above, I am not sure myself but I would think that these are part numbers as th elocation, number and gauge supplier likely changed often early on. Early cars had the glovebox an then that ceased around 1918/19. If memory serves I read sometihng on this very forum where the touring and roadster dashes are slightly different for the same year. The touring had two cylindrical cutouts (on for the steering column an the other for the sector rod) while the roadster only had one. The angle was steep enough that the sector rod cleared the dash and did not need the additional cutout. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72caddy Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Ron,I don't know of anyone reproducing that battery guage. Contact 'countrytraveler' as he has access to many early DB parts. Best to send him the photo from above. I would rather have that guage than my needle gauge... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobs1916 Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 RonI have one that has broken glass but that should not be difficult to replace . Untested but these are pretty bullet proof. send me PM bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Regarding the dash scans above, I am not sure myself but I would think that these are part numbers as th elocation, number and gauge supplier likely changed often early on. Early cars had the glovebox an then that ceased around 1918/19. If memory serves I read sometihng on this very forum where the touring and roadster dashes are slightly different for the same year. The touring had two cylindrical cutouts (on for the steering column an the other for the sector rod) while the roadster only had one. The angle was steep enough that the sector rod cleared the dash and did not need the additional cutout.Thanks, I am beginning some training with an early D.B expert very soon concerning just how to better understand these earlier parts books so I am hoping to be able to confirm what you have mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72caddy Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 1930,That sounds fun. I'm envious. Be sure to ask about windsheild station heights (different between touring and roadster), starter/generator changes, timing chain differences (72 verses 74 links I believe), radiator height is something I have always wondered about as the early cars are described as 'low radiator' or 'low hood' - what does that menan exactly? Always wondered if the distance from the firewall to the back of the seat differed from roadster to touring or through early production. The carbs are pretty easy to identify on early cars since the bowl and neck shape differ.I would like to know if there are other distinguishing things other than these. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 (edited) 1930,That sounds fun. I'm envious. Be sure to ask about windsheild station heights (different between touring and roadster), starter/generator changes, timing chain differences (72 verses 74 links I believe), radiator height is something I have always wondered about as the early cars are described as 'low radiator' or 'low hood' - what does that menan exactly? Always wondered if the distance from the firewall to the back of the seat differed from roadster to touring or through early production. The carbs are pretty easy to identify on early cars since the bowl and neck shape differ.I would like to know if there are other distinguishing things other than these.I dont know if you have it but pending machinists Bill Ok I can send you a copy of all 800 plus pages of the 1927 Master parts book on CD. He was kind enough to lend me his original copy quite a while back ( right before I found my own of course ) and I have it all on CD that I can burn. I already sent Ray a copy, guess I did not ask Bill but I did not not nor plan to sell them, just trying to get info out there so more cars are saved. Let me know if you are interested and if Bill does not respond here than just PM him, I am sure he would not care but just out of courtesy. It lists the changes, unfortunately I have a problem with reading comprehension and so I am having a hard time fully understanding how to use the book so Ray ( early D.B expert ) is helping me thru e-mails and we are starting to figure the thing out together. Maybe other people would be interested in getting in on this, I could start a post here if there is any interest, just let me know!Off the top of my head I can help with this...........radiator height is something I have always wondered about as the early cars are described as 'low radiator' or 'low hood' - what does that mean exactly?..........There is a definite difference in height between the early cars ( dont quote me but I believe pre 23 or so ) and later cars. The early rad were very short if measure top to bottom, later cars added I think 4 inches or so in height so of course if the rad is taller than they had to adjust the cowl as well higher or else the hood would be sitting at a slant. Google a 1917 Dodge and then do a 25, you will see what I mean, you know what I may just do is post here the D.B articles done some time back concerning changes, it was a series of articles written about all 4 cyl car changes, very well written and very thorough but again unfortunately I have had a real tough time understanding the articles. If someone here or from the club does not complain about me posting some of those articles so we can discuss and learn than I will do so. Lets give it a day or two to see if anyone complains first, I dont want to be accused of doing something wrong if I do post them. Edited February 7, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machinist_Bill Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Let me know if you are interested and if Bill does not respond here than just PM him, I am sure he would not care but just out of courtesy. The more people with info the better! Pass it on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Let me know Caddy if you want a copy than, thanks Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 If someone here or from the club does not complain about me posting some of those articles so we can discuss and learn than I will do so. Lets give it a day or two to see if anyone complains first, I dont want to be accused of doing something wrong if I do post them.You may want to read the first page of the DBC newsletter before you do that. The newsletter is copyrighted and requires written permission to duplicate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72caddy Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I like a copy and be glad to help decipher the infromation for others. I won't resell. As for the low radiator, I understand what you are saying but the early DBs (1916/17) had a very low radiator compared to 1918/19 but I have never seen anyone precisely state what the measurement difference is. Physically you can look at pictures and tell there is a difference but the 'style' of the car really didn't change much.The thread is thoroughly highjacked but it is for a good cause.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Cozza Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Jason , You can not copy anything from the DBC News as it is coprighted. Page 2 of the DBC News explains it.Joe Cozza, Past President DBC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 I like a copy and be glad to help decipher the infromation for others. I won't resell. As for the low radiator, I understand what you are saying but the early DBs (1916/17) had a very low radiator compared to 1918/19 but I have never seen anyone precisely state what the measurement difference is. Physically you can look at pictures and tell there is a difference but the 'style' of the car really didn't change much.The thread is thoroughly highjacked but it is for a good cause....Send me your address Caddy to jhason2@yahoo.com and I will try and mail this weekend no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 Jason , You can not copy anything from the DBC News as it is coprighted. Page 2 of the DBC News explains it.Joe Cozza, Past President DBCHi Joe, I am curious, how do you underline words like that, I cant seem to figure it out, makes the words seem much more meaningful and authoritative, Id like to try that in some of my posts. Thanks for the heads up BTW, I will do my best to remember that, its prob. for the best that I just go to the original source anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 (edited) Just in case your question got missed, Jason; The B (bold) and I (italics) and U (underlined) icons are to be found in the bar over where you write your quick reply. If you click on all three icons you will notice them become highlited. This then allows you to underline in bold italics. To cancel just click in the area of the icons. For underlined non-italics just omit the "I". It takes a bit of practise but I think it's a good feature.Ray. Edited February 8, 2013 by R.White (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 (edited) Just in case your question got missed, Jason; The B (bold) and I (italics) and U (underlined) icons are to be found in the bar over where you write your quick reply. If you click on all three icons you will notice them become highlited. This then allows you to underline in bold italics. To cancel just click in the area of the icons. It takes a bit of practise but I think it's a good feature.Ray.Well I had no idea Ray, that is good to know, maybe now people will start listening to me Edited February 8, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 FAT CHANCE OF THAT!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 (edited) Just noticed the response time between post 27 and 30 then onto 32, someone must have un-leashed the bat signal for that quick of a response time I bet you couldnt even get the fire house to respond that quick Good job guys! Edited February 8, 2013 by 1930 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted February 11, 2013 Author Share Posted February 11, 2013 (edited) Thank you everone so much for all of you help.Things are under way tp procure a speedo and a battery guage WE still need to know what the tail lamp looks like Did these early DBs have a brake light too? thank you Ron Edited February 11, 2013 by Ron Lawson spelling error (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundog99 Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 I know the parts book illustrations are pretty poor quality ,but I can copy the lightning page at a higher resolution if that would be helpful. There is no mention of a brake light in the book Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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