Best way to prevent new gas tank rust

[laheyth]

I have made a new steel tank for my 1913 Overland, what is the best coating, or plating to apply to the inside to keep the tank from rusting?

Any advise would be appreciated

[NTX5467]

A good while back, in the 1980s, a friend mentioned that they'd had a fuel tank built for their trailer-tow vehicle. He went on to mention that they suddenly started getting rust contamination in the fuel system, clogging fuel filters, where that had never been an issue previously. Somebody asked them about their new fuel tank, mentioning that if you didn't "pickle" it internally, rust would be a problem. They had it pickled and the rust issue ceased. Not sure what chemicals were involved "back then", but it apparently worked.

Some have noted, more recently, that they'd had their older tanks "coated" internally with some of the commercially-available "coating in a can" products. Later, as they didn't get the inside of the tank COMPLETELY de-rusted and cleaned, the sealer began flaking off and clogging the vehicle's fuel filter. Seems like they'd been better off with an extra filter ahead of the fuel pump to catch the rust without all of the expense of the coating application.

Depending upon where you are, you might find some local/regional radiator shops that also "do gas tanks". As in clean and repair them. They'll also probably do the internal coatings, too. Cost could be approx $200.00 or less. The ReNew system is more expensive but many associates have had better long-term luck with that system.

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[Rusty_OToole]

OEM tanks use "terne plate" metal. I don't think you can apply this at home. Galvanized steel is good, if you used galvanized steel you don't need any other coating.

Otherwise, there are several good brands available. Epoxy is expensive but very hard. Other materials are more soft and rubbery. Bill Hirsh, Eastwood have good brands. There is POR15 rust coat but their products work best on rusty metal. If they have a coating that works on new metal it should be durable.

[Pete K.]

Be careful coating that tank with anything right now. "THEY" keep changing our fuel these days at the pumps and down the road the "new fuel" may dissolve what you've put in there. I use the proper amount of Marvel Mystery Oil mixed with the fuel for the engine and the slight oily coating on the top of the tank where the air space is, where the rust will start. Just keep an eye on it for now, in my opinion.

[KenHupp20]

Keeping the tank full might be your best protection. I used to work with heavy equipment here in New England,the master mechanic preached ( or insisted ) all the equipment to be fueled every night to prevent condensation. I have looked inside partially full tanks on a cold morning and seen at least 1/2 " thick frost (water!) on the walls.

[laheyth]

I am thinking of zinc plating it inside right now....... or would tin or nickel be better?

[Rusty_OToole]

I don't know how you could plate it after it is made. Best idea would have been to make it out of galvanized sheet metal but of course, it is too late for that.

Next best would be some kind of coating.

[Friartuck]

The selection of the Gas Tank Sealer is important as well as the method for its application. Shown is a 20 Gal tank with multiple bafffles and holes between them. Its suspended on a three point rope to easily rotate and flip the tank around to make sure the sealer covers every surface and seam. I used the US Standard sealer offerred by POR:

US STANDARD TANK SEALER-POR-15 Inc.

Judging by the few drops/blobs that are on my garage concrete apron after 14 years, I'd say its as permanent as you can get. Be sure to pour out the excess after the gymnastics excercise! Having a helper and yourself holding the tank in all positions will tire you out quickly and you'll likely get an incomplete job. Since the sealer moves slowly like molasis, the rope sling approach ensures all sides, angles, baffles, seams, etc get coated. Take it slow, be thorough, should take at least 2 hours to coat the whole inside before pouring out the excess. Let air dry for one week.

[tenugent]

how much sealer does it take for normal tank.thanks t.nugent roa 12969.

[Friartuck]

Sealer is usually sold in quart size cans. Pour in the entire quart and slosh around as mentioned. Approximately 1/2 to 1 cup will be left which needs to be poured out after sloshing. This excess which is not enough for a second tank, could also be used in a vacuum tank (if you have one) to seal the outer tank. Otherwise dispose of it properly (let air dry to a solid and discard).

[Guest Office grey]

The selection of the Gas Tank Sealer is important as well as the method for its application. Shown is a 20 Gal tank with multiple bafffles and holes between them. Its suspended on a three point rope to easily rotate and flip the tank around to make sure the sealer covers every surface and seam. I used the US Standard sealer offerred by POR:

US STANDARD TANK SEALER-POR-15 Inc.

Judging by the few drops/blobs that are on my garage concrete apron after 14 years, I'd say its as permanent as you can get. Be sure to pour out the excess after the gymnastics excercise! Having a helper and yourself holding the tank in all positions will tire you out quickly and you'll likely get an incomplete job. Since the sealer moves slowly like molasis, the rope sling approach ensures all sides, angles, baffles, seams, etc get coated. Take it slow, be thorough, should take at least 2 hours to coat the whole inside before pouring out the excess. Let air dry for one week.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]172202[/ATTACH]

This is so well said. You are very much thanked for providing this perspective. I, too, worried that the sealer would not get evenly distributed- arms do get tired! Now...to just figure out how to set this up for my bike's gas tank, which has like a bazillion nooks and crannies.

[sambarn]

Office gray, my tank coating system is similar except I suspend a rope pulley from a climbing strap ( to provide swivel) and then attach the rope at the ends of the tank (two points). This gives me effortless ability to roll it to any angle. Best of luck - I have always used and am happy with the Hirsch products.

[DavidAU]

I used an engine lifter when I did my Metallurgique tank. I used POR15 and was pleased with the results.

I put a hook on the end of a threaded rod and made a round wooden bung to keep it central and in place, poured the mixture in, fitted the hook and then rolled the tank in all directions

I also used the same method to paint the outside of the tank rather than rolling it around on stools.

[37_Roadmaster_C]

If you are near a major city, I would recomend that you contact a professional plating company and ask them about Tin or Zinc plating (or other materials). Both can be electroplated onto the steel tank inside and out. Either material will help with rust pervention, I think that Zinc might be better, but the plating company will know best.

[Guest Office grey]

Office gray, my tank coating system is similar except I suspend a rope pulley from a climbing strap ( to provide swivel) and then attach the rope at the ends of the tank (two points). This gives me effortless ability to roll it to any angle. Best of luck - I have always used and am happy with the Hirsch products.

Thank You. Sambarn, I was happy to read your suggestion for hanging the tank and the product advice. I will try the climbing strap/ rope pulley suggestion and I had not heard of "Hirsch" but that is probably because I was searching for motorcycle tank advice.

[Guest Office grey]

Pictures help others a great deal. This is a good one.

[Guest Office grey]

That is good to know