1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration

[1936 D2]

My 1936 car was an un-molested original when I first got it in 1983. (I am the third owner and know the full owner history). The car's top did not have a gasket that was apparent on the outside. The original application for the steel insert top on the '36 was very much like Ian showed in post #445. It has an inner simple rubber gasket and then the top seam was filled with a flowing sealer. The final effect was that the sealed area was either flat with the top surfaces or actually dipped inward just a bit. The over all idea being that water would flow off the top and not get backed up behind a thicker gasket that was sticking up from the surface area.

So, in other words, I do not think that the gasket style that "knobless" showed is correct for the later insert tops like the '36's steel insert top. That thicker gasket style MAY have been associated with the prior cloth insert tops (1935 and earlier - and also the 1936 7 passenger sedan "Limo") but I have no first hand knowledge of that fact.

(Sorry for the hi-jack Ian).

--- 1936 Steel Insert Top Sealer. --- 1936 Cloth Insert Top Gasket.

Edited September 17, 2013 by 1936 D2
Added photo (see edit history)

[knobless]

My 1936 car was an un-molested original when I first got it in 1983. (I am the third owner and know the full owner history). The car's top did not have a gasket that was apparent on the outside. The original application for the steel insert top on the '36 was very much like Ian showed in post #445. It has an inner simple rubber gasket and then the top seam was filled with a flowing sealer. The final effect was that the sealed area was either flat with the top surfaces or actually dipped inward just a bit. The over all idea being that water would flow off the top and not get backed up behind a thicker gasket that was sticking up from the surface area.

So, in other words, I do not think that the gasket style that "knobless" showed is correct for the later insert tops like the '36's steel insert top. That thicker gasket style MAY have been associated with the prior cloth insert tops (1935 and earlier - and also the 1936 7 passenger sedan "Limo") but I have no first hand knowledge of that fact.

(Sorry for the hi-jack Ian).

sorry.

I never said it was the correct gasket, in my search for a replacement gasket I was told that the one's that the well known suppliers are selling do not work on these steel insert tops, The gasket That I was having produced fit these inserts and also allowed for fabric to be installed over the insert, (no padding )or just paint the insert, again, never said it was original to these cars,,,I know the original "dum dum" type sealer was used, I know this because I spent some time cleaning it off my 36 when I had it,

[ATTACH=CONFIG]214548[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]214550[/ATTACH]

--- 1936 Steel Insert Top Sealer. --- 1936 Cloth Insert Top Gasket.

j

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Interesting information and it always adds to the knowledge base. I'm just glad people chime in with additional knowledge that adds to everyone doing restoration work.

Thats what I like about this forum, and keep comments and opinions coming.

Cheers

Ian

[1936 D2]

It also helps show how some of these design features were used over different model years and partial years in some cases. That raises the overall knowledge base of people reading these Forum pages. It's a good thing!

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Finally I mounted the luggage rack. I did have one issue. One of the threaded holes when I went to put the special bolt in didn't have a thread ! To get around this I bought a slightly longer bolt, made up a few slightly small curved shims and tapped them in on top of the thread, put a washer so it wont come out and this stopped any movement. I'm going to get a few small rubber "U" pieces and glue them in place so two of the support arms won't rattle. Apart from that and using the original emblem I think it came up looking pretty nice. Now I'm working on the bonnet lacing. I've finished one side around the radiator so three more to go.

Cheers

Ian

[knobless]

Hi Ian

put a call into the number you left, ( vent rubber ) said he may know a guy that does the vents but has not talk to him in some time and doesn't know if he is still doing them or not,,,,I do know a pattern-mold maker that I can pick his brain a little on these, have not talk to him in some time he may be retired but it never hurts to ask.....I'll keep you posted

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Thanks for that. Never hurts to ask the all of a sudden, out of the blue, you find a contact.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hey all,

Went to the the local rubber extrusion shop and bought a small strip of the "U" profile. Cut two small pieces and glued it to the stoppers on the luggage rack. This should prevent any vibration rattles. Nearly finished the radiator surround bonnet lacing. The last attaching bolt can't be put in as somewhere along the line the radiator surround was damaged and there is a piece missing that just happens to be where the hole is. I suspect it rusted out and fell off. I made a plate out of thick aluminium so hopefully when I tichten everything up it will fit.

Cheers

Ian

[knobless]

Thanks for that. Never hurts to ask the all of a sudden, out of the blue, you find a contact.

Here are a few more to check into:Soff-Seal: 800-426-0902

Metro Molded Parts: 800-878-2237

I will try and find some time this week to call or if you have a chance.......

[Aussie 8]

Hi Ian.

You have been doing a really great job on your car. Hope to see it at the Dodge Brothers Centenary in Forbes next year.

I'm planning to get down there with the DC8.

Keep up the good work!

Cheers

Jim.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi Jim,

i would really like to have her finished for October and put her in the motorclassica but not sure if they'd be interested in my car.

I'll keep posting pics on the progress. Thanks for your kind words.

Ian

[knobless]

looking for 1 of these window roller, have one also any info on what was used to go on the roller, rubber sleeve?

[knobless]

second picture shows how the door lock comes apart in 2 pcs so you can take it out without removing the window channel.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Finally finished the bonnet lacing. Tricky getting it around the radiator shell but got there eventually. it's a wonder you guys in the US didn't hear a few choice words !

cheers

Ian

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hey all.

Got the left side of the bonnet down from the shelf and just wanted to check the alignment was ok. Had to adjust the top support rods a bit but after that one side aligned up pretty well. At least now I know it fits ok. Not sure about the lower section yet but will cross that bridge a bit later. Just a question for you, my bonnet sides have four louvres on the sides. There are highlighted by a stainless steel trim. do you know how these trims are attached ? also the drain tube from the cowl vent that is inside the car, where abouts does it run to from elbow under the dash ?

Cheers

Ian

[knobless]

Hey all.

Got the left side of the bonnet down from the shelf and just wanted to check the alignment was ok. Had to adjust the top support rods a bit but after that one side aligned up pretty well. At least now I know it fits ok. Not sure about the lower section yet but will cross that bridge a bit later. Just a question for you, my bonnet sides have four louvres on the sides. There are highlighted by a stainless steel trim. do you know how these trims are attached ? also the drain tube from the cowl vent that is inside the car, where abouts does it run to from elbow under the dash ?

Cheers

Ian

Hi Ian

First off I did hear those few choice words over here....haha,

The stainless has small "T" shape fasteners on the inside of the hood all you do is straighten them out ( twist with pliers ) to fit out through the slots in the hood, the slot and the "T' are the same shape, to install , line up the "T" with the openings on the hood and twist back to original position to hold them in place.

I have my hood on a set of saw horses so it made for an easy task to remove all the hood hardware. good luck, and try to keep the fowl language to a minimum.....haha..

[knobless]

As for the drain tube mine is missing ,but I would imagine it runs out the firewall and down as to drain below the car, not sure of location.

[1936 D2]

In case it is similar, on the '36 a rubber tube goes from the elbow to a rubber gasket "port" through the firewall. The rubber tube is held tightly by this rubber gasket "port". The same gasket also holds, as I recall, the throttle cable and the vacuum rubber hose line to the wiper motors. The cowl drain tube just ends right at the gasket. It only sticks through the gasket maybe 1/2 inch and is cut off straight across the tube. Any drainage just runs down the firewall. Yes. I know it is a bit strange but that's the way I have seen them.

[dbe]

Ian luggage area looks super

Edited September 30, 2013 by dbe (see edit history)

[dbe]

Ian I agree that this method of sealing top is not most desiirabe but my 36 steel top dodge was done this way from factory carry on my friend

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Thanks Guys.

I'll have to check my trim pieces but I have a suspicion I don't have any of the clips. I think little things like this had got lost over the years by the previous owner.

The drain tube sort of looks obvious now you've pointed it out. I'll have a look at the grommets and see if mine are capable of housing a tube like that....thanks for the pic.

I'll work on the bonnet hinge this week and get it right so when I attached the bonnet sections to the hinge it should all go together.

Anyone have any tips when sliding the bonnet sections along the hinge.....except for the obvious......DON'T SCRATCH IT !!!!

Cheers

Ian

[Ian_Greenlaw]

ok. I was playing around with the wiring loom and hit a snag. Does the wiring loom ( from rear to front ) travel along the left side( drivers in the US ) or the right side of the chassis ? I have a feeling it's on the wrong side. not too much of a drama if if is but the fuel tank sender is already wired up when the body was off so it may mean a bit of repositioning.

My glass guy came around today and took my samples. He said they should be ready in approx a week. Finally finished the door handles. I gave 6 now so once plated I'll pick the best four and keep 2 as spares.

Cheers

Ian

[Guest 1930]

Drivers side in everything I have ever owned

[Ken_Lincoln]

Recon it should be the drivers side... as yours is RHD ... up the right hand side

[knobless]

Cleaned up the door plates and started on the window winder mechanisms. I thought that cleaning all the muck off them I could see any damage and potentially reapir any broken parts that I could see. I also check the operation of each component. So far so good and they all have been in good working order. There was one sign of a welded repair but looks to be good.

Cheers

Ian

Hi Ian

Wondering if you put new springs in your door handles and if so how these springs are installed ? I see a vague reminisce of the old ones ( outline) but can not figure how they snap into place any idea would help, thanks

Steve

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi Steve,

i haven't replaced mine but I'll check out when I get home tonight and post a pic or two for you.

cheers

Ian

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hi Steve,

I checked all 4 of mine and don't have a spring in either. Looking at what you have it looks as though the long part goes into the gap on the right and the short hook bit is the bit you have to "spring" into the left side so it sticks out the hole on the left. I guess it maintained the angle of the opening handle but not sure.

You have presented me with another problem. When I checked only one of my catch assemblies has a spring at the top of them. The others are missing or just didn't have them. What do yours look like ? ? I've attached a few photos.

Cheers

Ian

[knobless]

Hi Steve,

I checked all 4 of mine and don't have a spring in either. Looking at what you have it looks as though the long part goes into the gap on the right and the short hook bit is the bit you have to "spring" into the left side so it sticks out the hole on the left. I guess it maintained the angle of the opening handle but not sure.

You have presented me with another problem. When I checked only one of my catch assemblies has a spring at the top of them. The others are missing or just didn't have them. What do yours look like ? ? I've attached a few photos.

Cheers

Ian

Hi Ian

I will check and get back with some photos, if I remember they both had the springs attached....Thanks

Steve

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Steve,

Went and saw Graeme who is the guy that do my body work and asked him about the springs.

In the first photo you posted you put the first part of the "s" of the spring in the square hole to the left. you then tension thr spring and put the straight part in the opposite hole.. the spring sits flat so when the door handle is pulled it basically ratchets itself between the door locked position then moving the handle again ratchets it to the door opening position.

Hope that makes sense.

While I was there he had a car just brought in which was pulled out from someone's garage. it's called a Wanderer. there is suppose to be only 14 left in the world. this car and three others ( including Audi ) went on to become the Audi brand. it's sort of a cross between a Ford, Chev and a Volkswagon. just thought I'd post it when I see something interesting.

Received my window frames back from the platers who had them stripped for me. now the long task of hand sanding back to a platable finish. also working on the wiring so not a lot to show for my efforts.

Cheers

Ian

[knobless]

Steve,

Went and saw Graeme who is the guy that do my body work and asked him about the springs.

In the first photo you posted you put the first part of the "s" of the spring in the square hole to the left. you then tension thr spring and put the straight part in the opposite hole.. the spring sits flat so when the door handle is pulled it basically ratchets itself between the door locked position then moving the handle again ratchets it to the door opening position.

Hope that makes sense.

While I was there he had a car just brought in which was pulled out from someone's garage. it's called a Wanderer. there is suppose to be only 14 left in the world. this car and three others ( including Audi ) went on to become the Audi brand. it's sort of a cross between a Ford, Chev and a Volkswagon. just thought I'd post it when I see something interesting.

Received my window frames back from the platers who had them stripped for me. now the long task of hand sanding back to a platable finish. also working on the wiring so not a lot to show for my efforts.

Cheers

Ian

sounds about the same as the guy I bought them from ( instructions for installation ) I may have time to try it tomorrow , any photos of the car for which you speak?? like to see it. thanks

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Here ya go. Some call it an Audi but it is a Wanderer.

[knobless]

Ian thanks for that photo, neat little car,

I have included some pictures of spring replacing, door handles , the small ears that need to be bent up to install springs are very temperamental, broken one, but the guy I purchased springs from has new keeper, so I will just purchase them , and replace,

step one /pry up ears to remove Keeper

step two after removing, put spring in place as shown,

step 3 align keeper in place , bend keepers back to original position.

Step 4 they work,,,,,,,just need to do all of them......

[knobless]

Also saw this on line for sale $26, Also most the twin to mine,

[Ron Lawson]

Hey Guys, If you heat the little foldind tabs up with an oxy torch and bend them while they are red they shouldn't snap off I did this when I rebuilt the door locks for my 2249 and it worked a treat Cheers Ron

[knobless]

Ian thanks for that photo, neat little car,

I have included some pictures of spring replacing, door handles , the small ears that need to be bent up to install springs are very temperamental, broken one, but the guy I purchased springs from has new keeper, so I will just purchase them , and replace,

step one /pry up ears to remove Keeper

step two after removing, put spring in place as shown,

step 3 align keeper in place , bend keepers back to original position.

Step 4 they work,,,,,,,just need to do all of them......

The spring can be installed on either side but will only work on the correct side. Back tabs on the assembly have to be loosened. The curved end of the spring should rest in the first slot(as showing) when in normal position and in the second slot when in the locked position.

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Steve and Ron,

I didn't realise the spring wasn't big enough to go right across.

Thanks for the great photos and ideas. All I have to do is get the springs and away I go. did you have a look at my photos about the second spring in the latch unit ? I guess if I need the I'll have to make them up.

Ron, I'll definitely take your advise and heat them up first as I don't have access to more latches.

Cheers

Ian

[R.White]

Here ya go. Some call it an Audi but it is a Wanderer.

http://www.audi.co.uk/audi-innovation/heritage/iconic-cars/wanderer-w25k.html

[knobless]

too late for that, they are very brittle, looks to be a small score line at the ear bends, maybe a one time bend, oh well just another search ....for replacements...lol

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hey all,

Been doing a lot of fiddly things.

Finally worked out the wiring was on the wrong side. I couldn't get the wire off the fuel tank sender so I cut it and rethread the wiring and soldered and heat shrinked the join. Only then did I work out that due to the thickness of the wire ( and the thickness of me !! ) it wouldn't fit through a few sections of the chassis so for the third time, I cut the wire to the sender and started at the front of the car where I should have done in the first place. I just need to sort how the wires run for the dip switch. I think it clamps to the top of the gearbox crossmember but not 100% sure. I'm still sanding back the front window frames after the plater stripped them. This could take a while as they are badly pitted. Good news is the window glass will be ready this week and the plater has finished my door handles and are ready to pick up. I also thought i'd do something easy and attached the spare wheel support bracket on each side of the car.

Cheers

Ian

[Guest 1930]

Looks great Ian, I am also coming toward the end of a large project but I have been bullying my way thru it cause I am not needing a long term project. If you are interested you can see the vehicle here http://ramchargercentral.com/vehicle-help/1986-dodge/msg1867195/#msg1867195

There is alot more too it than that thread but it would mean having to sift thru some other stuff.

Lot of work every time anyone of us takes on something like these, I am sorta luckier with this one, alot of parts are still avail thru local jobbers but also alot of it is not and has too be ordered.

Believe it or not some of it just isnt avail at all anymore.