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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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Hi Jason,

your right, they are a lot of work. This being my first restoration and sometimes not realising what i got myself into gets a bit daunting. But it's interesting the people and knowledge you gain along the way. I've met some really nice genuine people and I've referred work to them. I've seen some amazing cars and watched as people bring things back that I would have thought were destined to the scrap yard. If I was able to I'd like to restore a 1929/1930 Cadillac or a Cord but I don't think the bank balance would take the strain.

I do like your other thread on the Ram. You seem to have a natural talent and take pride in what you do.

Im still a fair way off finishing mine. All the electrics, controls, windows, upholstery etc, wiper motors....all things that take a lot if time and you don't seem to be getting anywhere. I'd love to have it finished next year being the 100th Dodge anniversary. We'll see how we go. I'd rather do it properly than rush it at the end and have it look as though its been rushed.

Ian

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Stiill chugging along...

Finished running the wiring and aligns up better with everything now. Again had to rejoin the fuel tank sender wire.

Made up a fabric seal and positioned the left hand drive cover block off plate in place.

Installed the two bonnet restraining buffers in place.

Went to the chrome platers and got back my 6 door handles and I can pick the best ones and have two spares. Considering what I started with they came up pretty good. Also got back the 1/4 vent window frames.

Cleaned up the spring locking parts for the door handles too. I only have to figure out how to put them back now !

So while I was doing some of this it was hailing outside while less than an hour away Sydney is copping massive bushfires. Strange country.....but I hope they are all ok up there.

Cheers

Ian

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Thanks for the pics.

i see you have the little spring. is this just the drivers door or is it on all doors ?

i have a guy in the states who has got four of the other springs you first posted about. now all I have to do is see if that other spring is on all 4 doors and I'm ready to install the locks. do you know if locks etc should go in before window winder or visa versa ?

anyone have son opinion......jump in

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the one pictured is passenger door ( passenger door has outside lock ) I'm thinking they all have that spring, seems to have something to do with locking the door? from the inside again??....I bought the other springs on eBay ($18 for 2 ) also I did lock mech. first, then window, easy enough.... I also came across (eBay also ) the fender nuts, that fender bolts screw into, they are mounted to the body, by means of small bendable ears, I need some but, $50 for 20 is a little much, I'll keep looking , still working on vent seal tracking and also, making up the keepers I broke, should have used some heat first,, oh well,,,,,,

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Thanks for the pics.

i see you have the little spring. is this just the drivers door or is it on all doors ?

i have a guy in the states who has got four of the other springs you first posted about. now all I have to do is see if that other spring is on all 4 doors and I'm ready to install the locks. do you know if locks etc should go in before window winder or visa versa ?

anyone have son opinion......jump in

Ian while evevything is out of your doors you need to install your window channel then install your door latches and last thing is your window risers Have fun

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Is the channel in the front doors the same as in the rear doors ? or are they different.

Ian, the material in the channels are the same for the back and front, they are just different lenghts. When you look inside your door, you will see the metal channels that the cloth channel goes into. Usually you make one side the length of the metal channel and the front channel goes across the top and down one side. So, it will be an upsidedown L for the front channel and then a straight piece connects to this top L channel. Usually there are catches at the bottom of the metal channel that hold the cloth material in the channel but i find that if you use 3M super weather adhievsive it will hold the channel in quite nicely. The L channel will always go to the front of the car, even on the front and back doors. Usually a hack saw is the best tool for cutting the cloth material for the window channels. DRy fit the channels and tape them in position over night so that they will maintain their conformity. Place the channels in the bottom first and just work the channel up and around and then after you have put the 3M super weather adhesive on retape as before. Don't worry about the 3M adhesive because it will peel off anywhere you accidently get it on a surface. Hope this helps.

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Fantastic description.....thankyou very much and all this information will help. I guess the trick is getting the front window frame in once the channel is in place or do you simply lower it through the opening, attach the carriers and wind it up. Often the manual will say one thing and there is a better way of doing it.

Thanks again for the description.

Ian

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Finished off the wiring at the rear of the car and installed one of the rear tail light stalks and got the wires through. Started sorting out the glass I had made. Polished and cleaned the trims for the bonnet louvers and still sanding back the front door window frames. A lot of pitting in these !

Cheers

Ian

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Ian the best way I have found to put windows into finished channel is to place window at an angle and have the riser cranked all the way down then let window go down as far as you can at this angle.Then slowly start to straighten glass as you pull the window up to the top. If you can get some help have them hold the window while you slowly crank the riser up until you get to one of the large openings in the door panel. Then slowly let the glass down until you can insert rollers of riser into lower window channel on glass. It takes some time but you can do it. Hope this helps

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Ian the front windows are different because the window comes down as a whole unit including vent window or you can roll just the window without the vent. you have to put a channel into the vent channel metal so that the window as channel on each side but the top l channel works for both the window and the vent. The back doors don't have the vent window in them.

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How easy does the complete front unit go in ? looking at it I'd imagine it won't be an easy task. I guess you have to put it in on its side then as you lower it down start tilting it to the correct position. My only thought was the vent locking lever may get in the way.

there is room for it to fit in notch in door allows it to slip right in, as long as you don't have the window moldings on yet....lol jk...

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Hey all,

Just finished putting the sound deadening material in. Got it in all thew doors and a few front and rear areas as well. Actually the doors were the easiest. Certainly makes it look neat. Only problem is now when I work inside the car I get a sun tan at the same time !! ha

Cheers

Ian

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Hey all,

Just finished putting the sound deadening material in. Got it in all thew doors and a few front and rear areas as well. Actually the doors were the easiest. Certainly makes it look neat. Only problem is now when I work inside the car I get a sun tan at the same time !! ha

Cheers

Ian

looks great Ian, question mine as in yours has the space to ad tacking material ( what the interior is fastened to) what will you be using to fill these areas , I have a few different options, but just checking ?

like to have something original, but these areas will take more to fill than just the oakum type stuff they were filled with.

Also I have steel/metal retaining beads that are the shape of the doors did your have these type retainers?

Thanks again

Steve

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looks great Ian, question mine as in yours has the space to ad tacking material ( what the interior is fastened to) what will you be using to fill these areas , I have a few different options, but just checking ?

like to have something original, but these areas will take more to fill than just the oakum type stuff they were filled with.

Also I have steel/metal retaining beads that are the shape of the doors did your have these type retainers?

Thanks again

Steve

Hi Steve,

is the tacking material the square shaped long piece that runs the length of the car that there are tabs that fold over it? if that's it I haven't got that far yet so not sure.

The retainers you mention, two per side and two vertical straight pieces for each side of the car as well. Again if this is right then yep mine have those too. I'll have to get the fabric / lacing remade when the upholstery is done.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After messages etc with Steve ( knobless ) I bought the door lock springs from the USA and fitted after applying heat so the tabs wouldn't break. Only 3 broke out of 8 so I had them welded up. I also fitted the rubbers, clips etc on the door stays, fitted the cover for the hole where the diff may hit the floor pan and the rear seat lugs. I tried to install the other tail light stalk but 2 bolts threads just kept turning. I decided to try something different. I remember seeing this in the bolt shop I go to where they put Rapidfix in the hole ( built up in layers ) and then tapped it. I've filled the hole so now I have to drill & tap the hole. Fingers crossed on that one !

Cheers

Ian

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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi IAN.

the tall stalks bolt to the fenders? mine are dif, just asking, also I may be reproducing the parts for the windows, you know the parts with the tabs, that need heating, also I am toying with making a mold to reproduce window seals vent windows, may take some time to figure out but all I have talk to said it would be to exspencive to produce these, vulcanized parts, we'll see.............lol

take care, oh I also recieve my build car from Chrysler Corp. check it out.....

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Hey all,

Just finished installing all the door stops. Found a piece of the window runner channel missing so I'll have to make up a new piece and probably rivit into place.

Got 4 speakers from where I work and these are used in TV's so they are very skinny. I put them in the back of the car near the rear window and I'll hide two in the front as well. This plus the little amp and all you'll see when finished is a round disk at the rear of the glovebox which has hidden a USB and headphone input jack. A little bit modern and all hidden.

Cheers

Ian

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Hi Steve,

My stalks bolt to the fenders where I think from memory, your are mounted to the bolt that holds the bumper bar iron in place.

What happened to the build card ? Its not on the posting above ? Dodgey build card....ha

it's posted om here. under build car thought it would show up here but here it is

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This weekend is an interesting one for me. The 26th January is Australia Day and usually get about 500 cars on display in the Domain Gardens next to the city. Being 100 years of Dodge I'm hoping to see them featured in this years display. I'll grab some shots and post them after the event.

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Guest peter.k
This weekend is an interesting one for me. The 26th January is Australia Day and usually get about 500 cars on display in the Domain Gardens next to the city. Being 100 years of Dodge I'm hoping to see them featured in this years display. I'll grab some shots and post them after the event.

Hallo Dodgefreund im fernen Australien Es ist schön,dass ihr das feiert. wäre auch gerne mit meinen Car dabei gewesen.

Leider ist der Weg etwas zu lange. In gedanken bin ich bei euch. Freue mich auf ein paar Bilder von dir. Gruss Peter.k :rolleyes:post-98343-143142363854_thumb.jpg

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