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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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Hi everyone,

Completed aligning and tightening all panels and bolts on the left side of the car.

Started sorting through the packets of bits and pieces that have been sitting there for a number of years.

Found the glover box catch so I installed that and also found and polished the rear passenger ashtrays....came up ok I think.

I cleaned up a rod for the luggage rack as well as dovetails for the doors, striker plates, grommet housings, luggage rack bolts and trims for the ashtray and glove box. I'll check these over before I send to the plater. I've also ordered a lot of small machine threads and screws ( slotted of course ) from the Restoration Supply Company which are often difficult to find in Australia so I drew up a list and ordered a lot in one hit.

Over the weekend I hope to get the accelerator linkage in place as well as the roof. I'll take lots of photos and try to explain what I've done to install it.

I also spoke to the painter and his frind who does the pin striping on the wheels ( he calls him simple simon ! ) is nearly finished. Looking forward to see the job he has done.

Cheers

Ian

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Thanks Shannon,

i appreciate your feedback. I'm glad I'm able to take my time and post my progress so others can see what I do. it may not be the correct order of doing things but I'm doing the best I can and if it helps I'll keep posting until its finished.

I spent part of yesterday starting to clean up the door mechanisms and I'll post a pic over the weekend. sometimes when I'm finished doing something I even stand back and have a look and I think.....not bad at all. mind you I wouldn't have been able to do what I have without the help of friends and forums like this one ( especially this one ). It's great to be able to ask a question and get honest answers.

cheers

Ian

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Cleaned up the door plates and started on the window winder mechanisms. I thought that cleaning all the muck off them I could see any damage and potentially reapir any broken parts that I could see. I also check the operation of each component. So far so good and they all have been in good working order. There was one sign of a welded repair but looks to be good.

Cheers

Ian

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all,

All finished the door lock and window winder mechanisms. Just received a little box of those hard to get metal threads etc... from the Restoration Supply Company. Very prompt and fast service as a lot of they're bits are difficult to get in Australia. Postage only took about 4 days too ! I pulled the front windows out from under the bench too so I'm starting to clean those up as well. They will need replating so I'll have to strip them down.Spoke to Tony ( in Aus ) and he's given me a contact to get the glass remade. All I have to do is work out how to get the glass out of the existing channels without having a coronary !!

Ian

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Hi Jason,

Definitely plated. I have a second pair ( very rusty ) that I could potentially use for spares and both sets were plated. The whole frame gets plated except for the lower part in the third and fourth picture ( held together by the duct tape ). I've attached a few closeup and you can see the rust in the first photo. The last photo you can see the two spare upper frames and the complete frame with the lower carrier.

Cheers

Ian

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Hi,

First, if there was a lot of grease etc in the spring I used degreaser, hosed it out and dried overnight

Second, in the area where the spring and gear is I used a wire wheel ( fairly long bristles ) on a high speed drill, that tends to get into all the crevices.

Third, I then used a "Strip and Clean" disc on my angle polisher ( I've attached a pic as quite a few people don't know what I mean ). This disc will strip one of the arms of the window winder in a few seconds and leave a polished surface.

Finally i use a small wire brush ( twice the size of a tooth brush ) to get into any areas I missed.

A winder mechanism took approx 20 min to clean each.

Cheers

Ian

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Hi everyone,

Just finished cleaning up one of the side windows frame assemblies. There is a top and bottom assembly. The bottom one has the main window glass in it.

I've attached three photos which show the movememt of the main lever. When the lever is moved forwards at catch lockes the top and bottom window frames in place so the whole thing can be lowered. When the lever is moved back, only the main window can be lowered. This enables the 1/4 vent window to remain open.

The mechanism has two safety catches in place so no damage to the window will occur.

First, the 1/4 vent window must be closed. When closed ( see the fourth picture ) this little spring loaded catch pushes down and releases the first safety catch.

Second, the main window has to be wound up. In the fifth photo, you will see a square piece of metal sticking up on the lower frame. When the window is wound all the way up, this metal tag pushes another spring loaded catch and releases the second safety catch. This then enables the whole frame ( window and 1/4 vent window to be lowered as one piece ).

At the other end of the window frame is a thumb tab. I guess this was used in case the mechanism became stiff and this would give a little extra force to move the main lever.

Anyhow just thought I'd share what I found.

Cheers

Ian

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The Plymouths of the same period had a similar window arrangement. Chrysler seemed to love weird and complicated engineering, despite the Depression. Imagine how complex and expensive it was to design and manufacture that window mechanism. Same goes for the vacuum clutch and Floating Power.

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Oh, I don't know...seems to me that having TWO spares could be highly-practical at times. Take that recent video that shows DBs bouncin' about those rutty roads, for example. Plus, maybe the trunk rack was deemed a plus.

And, we don't know for sure whether your DB came with the vacuum-assisted clutch, or not. Those seem to have proved troublesome and many may have been removed with no clue. Yours DOES have the port on the intake manifold where the vacuum-assisted clutch got its suck. I've wondered it ALL '32s had that ported manifold, or not?

The '32 is very easy to shift manually...even easier with the standard Free-Wheeling. The vacuum-assisted clutch, I believe, was just pandering to the crowd. Ad fodder.

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I was surprised at the complexity of it and I know a few others have posted questions about the windows and their mechanisms. At least this way if anyone is considering pulling theirs apart this hopefully will give them some sort or record of how the darn thing works. I know it took me a while to figure it out.

Ian

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Hi all,

Got up enough courage to stamp the serial number on a ID Plate I bought from the US, which turned out ok. So I mounted it on the door pillar. Also stamped the Body Number on its tag and mounted that too.

Finally worked out how to mount the accelerator linkage. Being a right hand drive the linkage attaches under the right side toe board support.

Another few small things off the list.

Cheers

Ian

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Hi everyone,

With the help of my brother, I was able to get the engine mounted. I got the original water inlet and the base was slightly pitted. I spoke to a friend of mine and he said to get wet and ry paper and sit it on a sheet of glass and keep rubbing until the pitting is gone. Well that worked a treat and I was able to get an excellent seal to the engine head. I also mounted the exhaust and inlet manifold that I cleaned up and painted in 1200 deg paint. Also maounted the steeing box and rod and the carby that I also had rebuilt. AS the previous owner shaved a small amount off the bellhousing to house a more modern starter I found a guy who modified a starter motor so it would bolt straight onto the bell housing.

Cheers

Ian

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hi Pat,

he did tell me he had it shaved but he was going to use a Toyota Crown starter motor. I must admit he has been very helpful when I contact him for information....or at least what he can remember. he even told me as a kid they use to pinch parts off it when it was parked in the street....how's that for karma ! Sometimes I'll ask him say about the roof and he seems a bit vacant with what happened to the timbers but then he'll give 5 bits and say that's all he had....so I don't know what happened to the rest if them.

Ian

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Hey all,

Attached the fuel pump which I had rebuilt and the fuel line between the chassis and the fuel pump. I had them done in braided stainless to hopefully give them a bit more shielding from the heat. I also had a the fuel line made for between the fuel pump and carby so temporarily connected up that one as I'm not 100% sure where I'll attached that one yet. I also bolted on the fan pully and fan blade. I had that heat treated as a safety measure. I also cleaned up, repainted and attached the accelerator / choke linkage to the carby. The oil filter cannister I had repainted and the engine breather top chromed and the base repainted. The generator I had rebuilt to 12v specs so I attached that as well as the chrome attaching bracket. The water pump was rebuilt by a local guy that specialises in them. He puts new bearings in them as well as an improved impeller that helps with the water flow. I also attached the bypass pipe as well. The top of the oil filter I had polished so now I have to make the lines from the cannister to the motor.

I must say this was an enjoyable part as I had most of the items completed and was able to bolt a lot on the engine in a few days.

I also took the radiator surround to the body shop as I wanted this plated. He knocked a few small dints out of it at the bottom and had it copper plated to start hand sanding back to a smooth finish. Looking forward to seeing the end product.

Cheers

Ian

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Hi everyone,

I've posted a few closeups of the Generator, Breather cap and oil filter. I rebuilt the distributor and cut the hight tension leads for the correct length. I bought some water tight spark plug covers that the high tension leads go into. I mounted the High Tension Lead "spreader". I also had the base of the air filter painted and got the top chromed. I made the copper tubing for the oil filter and distributor and got some "P" clips to hold them in place on the engine. I also made up a temporary ignition set up with a switch for the ignition, starter and fuel pump and I ran new battery cables from the battery to the starter and earth. I also temp mounted my new coil and an oil pressure guage. When the radiator surround returns, I'll mount the radiator fill it with water and test it. Hopefully it wont blow up in my face ! I also had the gear lever chrome plated so thats why it looks a little dodgey ( hahaha.....dodgey !!! ). Sorry.....its been a long day !

Cheers

Ian

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Hi all,

Got the radiator cowl back and he did a brilliant job. ( mind you it hurt the bank balance something fierce !! ). I'll decide later if I'll leave as is or I'll get the front part painted as it forms a point at the base where the crank hole cover goes. Mounted the crank hole cover and I found a guy in central Victoria that redoes the glass enamel emblems. I sent him my original but he said it was too far gone so he said he'd keep an eye out for one for me. Two weeks later he found one and he restored it to original. The skills these people have ! I've attached a photo but this is a 1933 emblem so mines a little different but you get the idea of the quality of work he does. Installed the radiator into the surround and mounted on the chassis. Connected up the radiator hoses. I also put a little extension hose on the drain tap of the radiator so if I did drain it, I wouldn't get radiator fluid everywhere. This hose just pops out below the chassis. Also had the tailshaft fitted with universal joints and balanced and I installed that as well. I bought an Optima red battery as they tend to have a long life when not in use as much. Only thing now to do is start her up and see how it goes. I'll have to wait until a friend drops by as I promised I'd wait until he came over.

Cheers

Ian

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Cool ! Can't wait to see them. No hurry, I have to drop over and see you soon so unless your passing do you want to wait until then ?

I'm still working away on bits and pieces. The first pic shows the extreme inside rear of the car and the two luggage rack supports poking through the body. Question is did they have some sort of grommet. I would assume they would have but am not 100% sure. If anyone has some pics it would be helpful.

I've also started on the wooden boot space pieces. You can see the hole on the right where the fuel filler passes under and I guess the square hole in the middle is an inspection hole. I have a metal plate that covers this. Next have to finish the wood, coat the bottom and varnish the top and finally install it. I may put some sound deadening material down first.

Cheers

Ian

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