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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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Hey, you are alive !!!

How about some photos of your progress. Looks like you've stripped a lot out of the car.

Ian

Not much progress had the generator rebuilt, stripped down the vent windows ( broken glass ) but really busy working you know how that goes, when you have the $ to work on the car you have no time and when your not working you have no $ for the car,,ha-ha...that vicious circle, still chasing parts, not many left to find, had a question for you though I see on some 34's the crank hole cover does not have the "6" on it just a plain face, have you seen these? the last part of the puzzle is the license plate light lens, I am also looking for a set of tail lights , I can re-do the ones I have , but someone drilled them for license plate bracket, wrong bracket, and also mine are bullet shaped as original, not with the flat back on them.. oh well happy hunting will up date later, IAN ,,,works a callin...........

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Pictures of the crank cover. The (6) only fits the 33 Dodge car and 33 to 35 Dodge 1/2 ton commercial. The larger picture is the crank cover with the raised boss going down the center is for the 34 car only. Hope this helps.post-78906-143142116376_thumb.jpg The (6) is a reproduction that we sell and the 34 is a original.

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Pictures of the crank cover. The (6) only fits the 33 Dodge car and 33 to 35 Dodge 1/2 ton commercial. The larger picture is the crank cover with the raised boss going down the center is for the 34 car only. Hope this helps.[ATTACH=CONFIG]205981[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]205982[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]205983[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]205984[/ATTACH] The (6) is a reproduction that we sell and the 34 is a original.

do you have the 34, or do you sell the 34's? thanks Steve

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Steve,

a friend on mine just had a crank hole cover reproduced for his 34 which has the 6 on it, a bit like mine. I can ask him if he is doing any more as I know there is a market for them.

Ian

Thanks Ian, but I am looking for the one without the "6" for my 34 , as in (Dave's Picture ) I have seen them on other 34 I think these are original to that year, I also found a radiator cap that matches those crank hole covers as my Ram is in dire need of repair, Thanks again..Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

I've been busy with Tax time and still getting things done for my work. ( I don't really like this time of the year for that reason ! )

Anywho I have made some progress.

I made some templates for the side covers that when you lift the rear seat these neaten the area around the luggage area. I traced around the templates and cut out from some board I got from my upholsterer. Did a few final checks and seemed to fit well. I marked where the holes were and drilled these out and using little xmas tree upholstery fastners. There worked a treat and they even have the same finish as the board on them. Once in place I then made a template for the middle bit, cut it out then attached that too. I think it came up looking pretty good. I have to drill two more holes for the support stay for the rear seat but I'll do that at a later date.

I cleaned up the original cover plate for the hole in the luggage area and printed and screwed it in place. I think the guy who made this in the factory must have had a few drinks, or it was last thing on a Friday as it was a bit wonky but came up ok after some tapping out with a hammer.

I'm also still sanding back the door handles. I'm doing 6 in total so I have a few spares. Three down and three to go. Trouble is I sanded one back that far I lost the lines on the top so I'll have to reshape that by hand.

Cheers

Ian

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I started to pull the horns apart and found the screws a little tough going. I'll replace them down the track with stainless steel ones so a friend of mine was over and we decided to pull them apart. He held them and I got the screwdriver onto them. Then.......disaster struck ! The threaded end literally dropped off one of the horns. Bugger ! Anywho as my daughter says ! We both looked at each other then kept on going and removed all the screws. Closer examination revealed metal fatigue probably from vibration over rough roads put an end to this I thought. It probably took me 3 months of asking people and mucking around with them until someone ( can't remember who ) came up with a brilliant idea of how to fix them. Only problem was he'd have to cut the thread ( which we assumed was ok at this stage ) off the good horn to match the other one. What we did was to make a tapered sleeve that would fit inside the horn with a smaller reverse thread sticking out the end. A threaded collar would then be made with a matching thread on the inside to match the tapered pieces thread and a larger thread on the outside to match that of the elbow that sits below the horn body that this bolts onto. The end result is that you'd have a thread that looks identical to the original and at the same time is stable to hold the horn trumpet in place. That cost a few hundred dollars but I bit the bullet as the other scenario of losing a horn on the road wasn't very appealing. Hope this all made sense. The next job is to find a way to get them replated. Cross that bridge a bit later.

I also bought a big box of strip and clean discs as the guy who is doing my body work suggested that I do the panels by hand and blast the inside of the panels. I guess I'll be tasting dust for the next few months while I do that job.

Cheers

Ian

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Started the engine for the first time since the painting of the body. Only had a small leak from the fuel bowl. Pulled it apart and the gasket looked a bit tired so I replaced that and seems fine now. I've uploaded a short video to Youtube. Sorry I couldn't get the watermark off the video.

Cheers

Ian

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Hi Ian , wondering if your car has 1 or 2 back seat supports, the ones that hold the rear of the seat in an upright position ? I see mine has only one and there are not any tell tale bolt holes where a second would go, thanks in advance...

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hi,

have a look at post 407. The third and eighth photographs shows bolt holes for seat supports on either side of the car. mine only came with one. I'm not sure why there are holes each side. The only suggestion I can offer is that depending which drive side the car is it may be easier to get you one suitcase in from the curb side if the support is on that side so your pushing your case towards the side that doesn't have the support. Sounds good anyway !

Let me know what you think.

Ian

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Supposed to be two maybe? And the one guy just got too far behind on his side of the assembly line so he skipped it knowing there was another fastener on the other side. Also knew that the "inspector" would never catch it?

Just some human nature observation thoughts.

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hi,

have a look at post 407. The third and eighth photographs shows bolt holes for seat supports on either side of the car. mine only came with one. I'm not sure why there are holes each side. The only suggestion I can offer is that depending which drive side the car is it may be easier to get you one suitcase in from the curb side if the support is on that side so your pushing your case towards the side that doesn't have the support. Sounds good anyway !

Let me know what you think.

Ian

that makes perfect sense to me, but seeing I'm still living in the house, I do not see me needing a suitcase in the near future...ha-ha; maybe I will try to track down a match for the one I have

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Supposed to be two maybe? And the one guy just got too far behind on his side of the assembly line so he skipped it knowing there was another fastener on the other side. Also knew that the "inspector" would never catch it?

Just some human nature observation thoughts.

Wouldn't surprise me at all. Maybe as Dave has a few 34's he may be able to check.

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Do the seat supports have to be reset by hand so the seat can be lowered If so one would need long arms I think in most cases it would be the driver retrieving the luggage so that is why the suport has a mounting position on either side but only one suport device was fitted to each car Just my illogical theory Cheers Ron

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey all,

Fitted the painted grill to the front vent and picked up the painted spare wheel covers. The open part at the bottom of the pieces has two screw holes in each side. Does anyone know what the holes are for or what is missing ?

Cheers

Ian

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Take two....I hope this gets posted this time but I'm getting these Dodgey messages each time I go into a posting on the forum.....hmmmm wait and see.

Anyhow, I've inserted the roof in the opening and the following hopefully will explain how I did it without completely stuffing it up !

When I bought the car there were only 3 timber bows left of which 2 were broken. I spoke the the guy who did my body work and he set about making a new insert for me.

Did an absolutely fantastic job. Once completed I took to the upholsterer and he covered it with a cloth, foam and then the black finishing material. To check I set it in the roof opening and then removed and made a few minor adjustments as one part was sitting a fraction too high.

Ian

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Ok, so now the roof insert fits, I removed it from the car and ran three lines of green ( low stick ) masking tape along both the roof insert and the opening in the body. Once this was done and we ( my brother and I ) were happy with the result I ran three runs of Butyl Mastic ( like liquid Dum Dum ) along the three ridges in the roof opening. This was to give it a chance of having a three layer protection from getting any leaks. Once this was completed we made sure the screw ( metal thread ) holes aligned up. WE put the metalthreads on the holes and hand tightened them until it started to exert some force on them. We started from one side and tightened them until we got around to the opposite side and all screws were tight. There is always one that doesn't want to go in !!!

Ian

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To fill in any gaps that still may exist, I applied another run if Butyl Mastic and flattened it down with a cloth with some Kerosene on it. It was then a continuous job of getting the excess Butyl Mastic off the area. This stuff sticks like poo to a blanket ! blah.

Anywho, once we got the excess removed the masking tape was removed slowly after a hour or so as the skin had started to form. These was a few imperfections that needed attention so a bit more gentle wiping I was able to get that sorted out. When finished I left it for two days and then I had to find something that was softer than a cloth but was still had enough that didn't fall apart. I rembered my daughters use these pads for removing makeup. Armed with a few of these I again put some kerosene on them and very gently wiped any excess away. A bit of the cotton came off but this will clean off once completely dry. I think it came up looking ok and I really dont want to do this again !

Cheers

Ian

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Beautiful job, Ian!

I do have one question - it looks like you wrapped the green tape around the edges of the top insert, although I may be misinterpreting the photo. Once you applied the mastic and let it set up, how did you get the tape off without messing up the mastic? It seems it would be into the slot and removing the tape would tear the mastic. Obviously that didn't happen, so what am I missing?

Edit:

Looking more closely at the photos, maybe you didn't wrap the tape completely around the edge of the insert, but only up to the edge of it. That would explain things. What brand of mastic did you use?

Edited by Taylormade (see edit history)
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Thanks Dave,

That make sense to stop vibration.

You must explain how you get the circles and notation onto a photograph. I've tried a few times and given up in disgust.

Cheers

Ian

Down load (PICASA) I learned how to do that plus another member from the forum guided me along. Sorry for the long response, we are dealing with the Rim fire here.

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Hi guys and thanks for the comments, much appreciated.

The green tape only ran around the rim of both the insert and the opening and not wrapped over the edge. This made for a better line to work to. If I was doing this again I would have put less Mastic on the second time around as the bulk of this had to be removed. When I wiped the excess off I tried to get back to a little of the painted surface along side the masking tape. This way I knew that was where I had to stop wiping. Pulling the tape off required two people. One to pull it off ( almost on an angle back on itself ) so it didn't lift any mastic that was caught up, and the other to hold the tape off the roof coz this stuff gets everywhere.

I used a local brand...Selleys D-Mastic ( pic attached )

I also made a little template for a heat shield for the fuel pump. My fuel pump has 3 "posts" so I gave this to my metal guy and he made it up from stainless. I polished it up and it fitted without adjustment...that has to be a first.

I've also started on the bonnet lacing.

Tip of the day....

IF YOU ARE RESTORING A CAR, FIT THE BONNET LACING TO THE RADIATOR SURROUND BEFORE THE RADIATOR GOES IN AND YOU BOLT EVERYTHING UP. I think I'm becoming a contorsionist !

Cheers

Ian

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Thanks Dave,

That make sense to stop vibration.

You must explain how you get the circles and notation onto a photograph. I've tried a few times and given up in disgust.

Cheers

Ian

open pictures with a separate program such as" paint" then you can do all kinds of add on's....

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Thanks for that.

When you said you are looking for the rubber seal was that for he roof as I may have a source for you.

well mainly the rear vent window seals, the roof I can deal with, I use to make the seals for 1936 dodge roof ( steel insert type) due to the fact there was not one available ( that fit right ) for the 36 Dodge. I sold all of my supply for those cars, I will mock up a profile for the 34 and then contact the rubber company I use to do an extrusion (s)

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well mainly the rear vent window seals, the roof I can deal with, I use to make the seals for 1936 dodge roof ( steel insert type) due to the fact there was not one available ( that fit right ) for the 36 Dodge. I sold all of my supply for those cars, I will mock up a profile for the 34 and then contact the rubber company I use to do an extrusion (s)

Here is a picture of the seal for the 36 notice how it fits the gutter of roof and has enough room to add fabric to the inserts these seal not only sealed well but also made a nice clean finished look to the roof of these cars...the tops could also be painted to match the car body, sold over 100 of these seals over the years.... this is something "Steel rubber and others do not stock, and I still hold the mold rights to.....

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Here is a picture of the seal for the 36 notice how it fits the gutter of roof and has enough room to add fabric to the inserts these seal not only sealed well but also made a nice clean finished look to the roof of these cars...the tops could also be painted to match the car body, sold over 100 of these seals over the years.... this is something "Steel rubber and others do not stock, and I still hold the mold rights to.....

Would you have the size of the insert for the 36? I think I have one of the insert but I don't know what it fits.

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This is what I was looking for.This is a moulding used for the Chrysler brands ( could be for other years too but not sure ). Unfortunately as I didn't pull my car apart and there was not much left of the roof, once I had the roof made this moulding was too big to fit so I had no choice but to use the Butyl Mastic method. This would have provided a cleaner edge.

This is the web address of the supplier and I've tried to take a few shots of the moulding. They still have stock of it

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

Ian

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This is what I was looking for.This is a moulding used for the Chrysler brands ( could be for other years too but not sure ). Unfortunately as I didn't pull my car apart and there was not much left of the roof, once I had the roof made this moulding was too big to fit so I had no choice but to use the Butyl Mastic method. This would have provided a cleaner edge.

This is the web address of the supplier and I've tried to take a few shots of the moulding. They still have stock of it

http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

Ian

no worries Ian, these are the same as the rest of the suppliers carry and they don't fit.....they will tell you they do but I went through 4 different seal when doing my 36 and not one of them worked, there is a big difference in selling parts to sell parts and making sure the parts you sell work, if you know what I mean.....

K" is right one year for the insert one for the coupe and 1 fits the four door , I know there was a guy in Conn. reproducing the tops to fit coupes as for the four door tops I do not know of anyone doing them......

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