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1934 Dodge Full Body Off Restoration


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Just amazing the talent around the world. I have a good friend that lives in Detroit Michigan that came from Armenia back in the 40s to work at the Ford's River Rouge Plant in Michigan. In 1970s, he bought a 33 Plymouth 5 window coupe with no fenders, hood and grill. You would think back then that you could get those parts with no problem. He couldn't find them good enough shape for his car. He went ahead and made all the parts out of (stainless steel) by hand forming. You couldn't tell that the were hand formed. The car, even being a street rod, took second in the national car show circuit and 3rd for the Don Ridler award. Nice job that your friend is doing and my hat off to his talent.

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Hi Manuel, Sorry just got internet connection back after a week of it being down....something about catastrophic event at the exchange ??? Any how I use Sterling Platers in West Heidelberg. Very knowledgable guy and easy to deal with. You can google their website. Always has lots of car parts there and "Oldcar" who posts under Restoration Projects also uses them. Cheers Ian Does anyone know why when I hit the Enter button in this website it won't go down to the next line ?

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Ok so I started to hand sand back all the door handles, finished one and I think it came up pretty good. Only do it for a short time before my arms feel like they are dropping off. This should be ready to be plated / coated when I've finished all of them. Also installed all the dovetails in the doors and made up a few little rubber seals to seal the luggage rack supports and fuel tank filler tube in the lower floor pan area. Next step is to finish the boot ( if you can call it that ) timbers, paint and varnish them. I'll put sound deadener down before that is all installed.Cheers Ian......here it goes again....I press the Enter button and it won't go to the next line !!! Grrrr

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Hey all,

I finally received the running boards ( all 3 pairs ) and went out to an outer suburb to pick them up. Didn't realise they were that heavy ! The guy there said he slid them under a couple of mustangs he was importing. When I went to settle the bill he asked me what I thought it was worth in freight to bring them in !!! I didn't have a clue and i was expecting $500 to $600 ( $200 a pair I thought was reasonable. He said make it $140 cash for all of them ! Couldn't believe it, paid, collected and drove off as fast as I could before he changed his mind. You have to win sometimes I guess. A friend has since told me he was looking at paying $500 for one pair to be freighted in.

Next job was to have a look at the mascot....another fiddly job. Underneath the emblem were four lugs and a tapped hole in the centre. The only way I though of doing this was to make a brass plate that would lock into the lugs, drill a hole in the centre and somehow bolt the radiator cap to the brass plate before tightening the centre bolt. I measured the opening in the radiator and after emailing a few people on ebay I bought a few 1929 Packard ( as it was advertised ) radiator caps. You'll notice a raised middle circular section. I had to flatten this down so I gently tapped it flat. I made up a brass plate and drilled four holes for the lugs to go through and a large hole in the centre for the main bolt. I tapped the sides so they looked more rounded and put on the radiator neck and put in the lock position. This gave me the the centre point that the ram needs to face. I then drilled two holes through the brass plate and the radiator cap and bolted the two together. I checked that when this assembly was bolted to the underside of the ram it would be off centre. I put a stainless bolt in the underside and bolted the assembly to the ram. The whole rams sits sideways when first placed on the radiator and when in the lock position it faces straight forward. Glad it worked first time. A lot of checking and rechecking but look the part.

Cheers

Ian

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Those running boards are gorgeous Ian. Where did you get them? I ended up having to get the filler neck rotated to accommodate my unidirectional cap. I suppose I could have done something similar to what you did.

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Hey all,

I'm using Firefox now and no problems either posting or downloading photos. I tried the enter button twice but no effect. Thanks for the suggestions.

Finally finished the rear luggage compartment wooden pieces. More angles in these than in my house ! Gave them the same marine paint black treatment underneath and clear glossed the top and felt between the upper and lower joints per the original. I do have to cut a little piece for where it goes over the fuel tank filler tube and finish painting the plate that covers the big hole in the middle and install. I'll put the sound deadening material in first and take a shot once completed.

Cheers

Ian

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I am no expert but I was having the same problem. It is related to Internet Explorer Windows 7 and no it is not an operator problem. I solved this by going to the top of the screen where it shows a magnifying glass, a down arrow, a torn piece of paper and a circle with an arrow. Click one time on the torn piece of paper. This is compatibility view. When it turns blue your problem should be solved. For some reason I had to sign in again. This process can help with other web sites and forums as well. You may have to do it each time or you may not. Hope this helps, Chris

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1934 six wheeler with good interior shots for Ian<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Ian this dodge on ebay has many good photos for your information google Dodge: other deluxe in Dodge | ebay motors This dodge has many accessories and low mileage dodge with good history
<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

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Ian I would like to know if you have tried to fit rear seat before you have it upholstered How does back of seat attach and when you lift it at bottom what if anything holds it up while you pull out your luggage

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Woo hoo I can answer this one as it was one of the few things that was still attached to the inside of the car !

The rear seat is attached to the top of a steel curved piece that sits below the rear window. It is attached by two hinges so the back of the rear seat is put in first.

Therefore the seat ( rear part ) lifts up from the bottom. When in the car looking at the rear of the car, you'll notice two screw holes on the left steel vertical support strut. This is where a "stay" mounts and the other end mounts to the seat.

I'll take a few photos of what I'm talking about over the weekend and post as soon as I can. The pic below is from the actual sales brochure for the car.

Hope this helps

Ian

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Thanks for reply I found the hinges on back of seat but not attached I will look into seeing where screws may have mounted The photos will be great Glad you had something to remember

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Ian now that you are getting closer to completion are there any parts that you have not been able to find I am always looking for parts and maybe I can help you shoot me a list and I will look for you

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What a cool restoration. I wonder if I should contact them. My brother flys into India ( he lives in Hong Kong and flys for Dragon Air which is owned by Cathay Pacific ) and I'm going to visit him later this year. If they really needed parts I could take them to Hong Kong and he could take them in the cockpit to India and the guy could meet him at the airport, obviously depending on the location of course ! He'd probably get locked up for that one !!!

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Many thanks for the offer.

There is one thing that I'm finding hard to get. Its the rear 1/4 vent wind out window frame and rubber. My right side ( Driver in Aus or Passenger in USA ) is ok as per the pic but the other side is rusted quite bad and the rubber perished and there is nothing left. The rubber was vulcanised to the frame which makes it even more difficult. I've even tried every rubber manufacturer I can think of in the USA and Aus but no joy.

There was one guy selling parts off a 34 put he seems to have dropped off the face of the earth.

Ian

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Got the photos for you of the rear seat stay and bolt holes. Mine bolts to the right side ( I thought it was the left until I found the stay ). And there are holes on both sides of the Verticle support bars. You'll see the three holes in the top curves metal just below the rear window. Thats where the hinges bolt to, and in the same photo the two holes futher down the support bar are for the Stay. The other holes in the support bar are for Upholstory clips to hold the surround cover in place. I mounted the stay and sat it on a piece of wood to try and give you a good look at it. I haven't cleaned it up and painted it yet.

Ian

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Hey all,

Finished installing the soundproofing behind the luggage area. Got my finished timbers and bolted / screwed everything in place. All that remains is to get the cover plate finished to cover the big hole in the middle. Only problem is I'm not sure if there was any lining, if any, of the metal body above the timber to underneath the rear seat support. I'll have to email a few people to see what they have.

Cheers

Ian

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Thanks for the photos I now know what to look for I will look for vent window with good rubber I would use the same insulation up the wall to under self and then use upholstery to cover it That way you keep back of car quiet and make luggage area complete Thanks Frank Have you tried Steele Rubber products they have online catalog The 1934 chevy master 4 dr had vent windows in the back also and they have that rubber may work for your window also have luggage rack grommets if you do not have those Frank

Edited by dbe (see edit history)
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Hi Frank,

I'll check out the 34 Chev rubber products and see what they have.

I have the luggage rack grommets and have fitted them already.

If you can still have a look for the vent window that would be appreciated.

Regards

Ian

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Hi Ian I had the back seat out today, and the Australian cars have wooden uprights with out bracket holes so they must not have used that space for luggage.

But I will copy your wooden sections and use the space for tools and etc.

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No problems Ken, I have kept the original pieces for you to have when we next catch up.

Can you take some close up shots of the bolts in your luggage rack. I'm basically ready to fit the rack to the car but a bit unsure where the bolts go. I have 4 with a unthreaded area then thread so just checking where these go and what others I need.

Ian

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Ian I have a couple of sources looking for your ven t window I also need to know if you are interested in a complete pair of bumper guards ,fronts ,backs and special bolts Let me know good shape for chroming Ian I also have some more pictures for you to look at

http://2aca3f40-f22b-4c58-ab9f-5913aefa5298.autorevo-powersites.com/1934-Dodge-Sedan-Mankato-Minnesota-56001/3903947

Edited by dbe (see edit history)
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Hi Frank,

Yes I'd be interested buy guess depends on price....if I spend too much more I'll be facing divorce !!!

I guess the real killer for me too is getting them here as its not cheap to post thing. Let me know how you go and how much they are.

Many thanks for the pictures, I'll add those to my collection....good references.

Ian

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Hi Dave,

Yep its the rubber and frame that the glass and frame rotates into. I have new rear side wind out windows ( see attached ) but the rubber seal assembly in good condition is a little tricky to find.

Kind Regards

Ian

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Woo hoo I can answer this one as it was one of the few things that was still attached to the inside of the car !

The rear seat is attached to the top of a steel curved piece that sits below the rear window. It is attached by two hinges so the back of the rear seat is put in first.

Therefore the seat ( rear part ) lifts up from the bottom. When in the car looking at the rear of the car, you'll notice two screw holes on the left steel vertical support strut. This is where a "stay" mounts and the other end mounts to the seat.

I'll take a few photos of what I'm talking about over the weekend and post as soon as I can. The pic below is from the actual sales brochure for the car.

Hope this helps

Ian

Here's is a shot of mine taking it apart....flipped up to access area.

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