Engine Splash Shields

[MikeC5]

I finally got the rust molassed off the splash shields. I seem to remember a comment or two from DB-ers who don't re-install these. Do they make the engine run hotter?

[Pete K.]

Mike, Go to Fordbarn.com There has been a hundred discussions about the Model A Ford engine splash shields there. Most all are in favor of using the shields. I use them on my Model A's and the '25 Dodge when I can ever get it going. The engine shields divert the hot air from radiator, through fan, across engine sides and out the ends under toe board. They are also believed to make a better electrical bond for the engine to ground. It seems without the engine shields, air is turbulent under the hood, trapping the hot air and leading to vapor lock and over heating. This has been proved by monitoring one's "Motometer", with and without the shields, the water temperature is a bit cooler also as viewed on the Motometer when the shields are in place. I don't mean to bring other car makes into your Dodge thread here, but sometimes a comparison needs to be made to make a point. Frugal Henry Ford would not have put the splash shields on his cars if they weren't needed. As far as I know, all early cars had the shields, so the thinking was unanimous amongst the makers. "If ya got em', use 'em!"

Edited August 11, 2012 by Pete K. (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

I finally got the rust molassed off the splash shields. I seem to remember a comment or two from DB-ers who don't re-install these. Do they make the engine run hotter?

I would like to see these comments. They dont install them because they cant find a decent pair and its too much work to find a decent pair.

Like Pete said use them Mike if you have them. It will really set you car off, in my opinion nothings nicer than looking down and seeing these original old shields installed instead of the typical dirt or grass.

Edited August 11, 2012 by 1930 (see edit history)

[MikeC5]

Good info guys, thanks. I do plan to install them. How true that Henry wouldn't have installed them if they served no purpose (and we can be sure that purpose wasn't just to spiff up the engine compartment).

[Bill Harmatuk]

Thanks for answering a long awaited question I also had on splash shields.

I have the original shields, in pristine condition, for my 30 Chrysler. I was also thinking about the air flow thru the engine compartment.

Makes sense.

Thanks.

Bill H

[Guest 1930]

Just a sidenote, ( you may or may not have noticed in that book you borrowed Mike ) I have read time and time again reminders in old service mags reminding the modern day mechanic to be sure they put the shields back on after the service job.

Apparently it was common to remove them and discard them because of the pain in rear factor.

[JayG]

Hi Mike - My 25 roadster doesn't have the engine splash shields. I wasn't aware that Dodge had them. I knew the Model A's did. Anyway If you could post a picture of the shields for reference that would be great. Then if I ever run across a set I could identify if they were the right ones.

And I have a beautiful set of original Model A shields that I would swap for a set of Dodge's.

[TonyAus]

A quick tip on splash shields. Mine were rather rusted and bent so I decided to make up a new set. The hard bit is the pressing which fits over the rear shackle of the front spring. This pressing is spot welded to the shield, not usually damaged and easily removed - save it for reuse. The rest is a simple folding, drilling and filing job using 20 gauge panel steel.

[MikeC5]

I will post some good pictures of them.

[MikeC5]

Here ya go. Let me know if you need measurements and I'll do the best I can.

[Guest 1930]

Man those are in nice shape!

[JayG]

Mike - Thanks for the pics. They are in great shape. I would never have guessed they looked like that. Now I know what to look for. Jay

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Hey guys,

I've just had my splash shields blasted and powdercoated and was wondering re the benefits of using them. Jason is right there would be nothing nicer than looking down and seeing a nice original splash pan. After reading this I decided I will use mine. I suppose a similar thought is whether to use the spare tyre covers or just have the spare tyre by itself with the chrome anchors holding it down in the guards. Everyone I've spoken to suggests to use them as they look nicer if you have them.

Cheers

Ian

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Oh yeah,

I took this photo around the corner from where I work. I know they are Fords but still nice the see a line up like that.

[MikeC5]

They were fresh out of the molasses bath. I was surprised, no holes where there shouldn't be or bends, modifications, etc.

[JayG]

The thick molasses coating is probably what preserved them so nicely. A good coating of grease and oil keeps the moisture away.

[MikeC5]

I'm talking about real molasses Ray.. A gallon of feed-grade molasses diluted into 5 - 9 gallons of water makes a cost-effective rust remover. I've got a little kiddie pool and just submerge rusty parts in it. The high temperatures help it work fast (around a week will remove rust even down into the bottom of pitting). It smells good for the first several days; now, not so much... Unlike an acid, it doesn't harm the steel in my experience (and what I've read about it). Do a search on it. Some people submerge whole car bodies in it!

[R.White]

I have learned something new here again ! I had no idea that these engine splash shields would have been present on my '26 touring. I don't know if I would be able to make some but it's worth thinking about. Perhaps easier to make them from aluminum and then paint black?

Ray.

[MikeC5]

You could with a shear and brake (but the spring perch covers would be tough). If you could mock them up with cardboard and then make a flat pattern from that... If you really want to try it I could try and trace the outline and mark where the bends go and mail it to you. I saw a pair on fleabay a few weeks ago.

[Pete K.]

Even if you make up a pair of splash shields to fit, would you really have to go through all the pains for the small area of the spring perch cover? Just leave it out of the picture until you find a real set of pans. As I've remarked previously, the engine pans are not there for looks. Here's another point of interest--- The first Model A's in 1928 came through with not only engine pans but a metal fan shroud also. But soon, Henry Ford dropped the whole idea of the shroud, but kept the lower pans throughout the entire run of Fords for many years. Any car with rubber lined engine mounts could have a grounding issue and problems like ignition at points and plugs, especially when the car got older and grease, rust, or a loose bonding strap will come into play. The engine pans were hefty and bonded well from the engine to the frame with bolts. All this may have been an after-thought since the pans may well have only been developed for the flow of air through the engine compartment and to help keep some dirt/water from entering the carburetor, since few cars had air cleaners attached to the carb air intake.

[R.White]

On reflection, I think it would be better if I looked out for a pair for sale.

As shipping and taxes are high to the U.K., it would be helpful to know how much these things weigh?

Given the amount of rain we have had this year, it may be a sound investment!

Your help, as usual, is much appreciated.

Ray.

[MikeC5]

I'll weigh them this weekend Ray but I don't think they're more than 4 - 5 lbs each.

[MikeC5]

I forgot to add, good point on the water/dirt ingestion factor Pete. And some redundant grounding never hurt anybody (except maybe from a lightning strike)...

[Guest 1930]

Id definitely hold out for an original set as you wont be able to press out the details of the originals, I cant imagine them weighing more than a couple pounds a piece, maybe 5 pounds boxed up. Good luck with your search.

[R.White]

Thanks all. Would these definitely have been fitted to export models?

[gundog99]

yes

[R.White]

Thanks, Gundog 99

[Guest 1930]

Definitely

Look in that parts book I sent you Ray, thats why I sent it, you will see for yourself

[MikeC5]

I just picked them up and am revising my estimate to no more than 3 lbs each.

[R.White]

Thanks guys, I will look out for some. Jason, I will have to check if export exemptions are flagged up in the book but in any event I should have realised that these splash shields would have been included.

Ray

[Guest 1930]

Thanks guys, I will look out for some. Jason, I will have to check if export exemptions are flagged up in the book but in any event I should have realised that these splash shields would have been included.

Ray

If you see that they are not Ray, let me know, I dont see why they would not be though.

Exports are clearly mentioned in later versions although I guess I cant remember if they are in the earlier book

Edited August 17, 2012 by 1930 (see edit history)

[gundog99]

My Dodge Senior (from Australia) should have a three piece shield set,the two side panals are missing, but the front section was in a box of spares.

[R.White]

Hi Gundog, there are no splash shields on my '26 touring which is also from Australia. I have looked them up in the parts book and as Jason rightly indicated, there are separate part numbers for left and right hand drive cars; the right side for 2 unit 6volt cars (left or right hand drive) shares the same number 27160 The left is 18370 and is common to 6 or 12 volt cars except the earliest ones.

Jason,

I think the answer will be to try to pick up a pair (LHD) from the States and modify to make fit if need be.

That parts book is a great help, thankyou again for helping me get this older restoration more like it should be. I don't think too many people realise the amount of assistance you give others free of charge.

Ray.

Edited August 22, 2012 by R.White (see edit history)

[Guest 1930]

That is what I would do Ray as you guessed good luck finding a set for R. Hand drive. I would start now asking around for good clear pictures or better yet a tracing of where you are going to have to make your cuts so by the time you do find a pair it will be one less obstacle to have to overcome.

If we charged for information like alot of clubs I.E groups of people with similar interests we would have even less of these old cars being saved and restored, thats what this is really supposed to be all about.

[MikeC5]

I certainly hope, for the hobby's sake that people share like this for all antique cars.

[Bob_Heaton]

There is one nice engine splash shield listed now on ebay under Dodge Brothers parts. It is listed at $40.00 and no bidders at present.

Bob

[R.White]

Mike, can you see any part numbers on your splash guards?

Looking at your photos; my guess is (but don't know for sure) that the big 'cut out' on the one in the top left shot is for the starter/generator - so this would need filling in if I got a LHD set?.

[MikeC5]

Hi Ray, no sign of part numbers. They may be too rusted in the critical area. I'm reasonably sure you are correct about the cut out being for the starter/generator side. The other pan has the drain hole under the water pump drain cock. The pans appear to bolt onto the top side of the lower frame rail. I haven't actually fitted them up yet. The one fleabay looks the same as mine except on the aft end it appear to have a flange that mine doesn't.

[gundog99]

starter/generator is in the same position for both RHD and LHD

[R.White]

The starter/generator is as you say, Gundog, in the same place on RHD and LHD but my car is a 2 unit 6 volt model and the shields are different but I have am not quite sure yet how much difference there is. The right side will also have the water pump drain in a different position. I really would like to establish how they differ before jumping in and buying a pair of LHD shields and altering them to suit my car (which is still in storage). Although RHD ones may be scarce I am tempted to hold fire until a pair surface in OZ. The other thing which I have just thought about is perhaps the casting of the 5 bearing crankcase is slightly different to the earlier engine and how 114" wheelbase guards differ from 116" ones; which are different again from later 6volt cars. I don't know for sure yet.

Ray.