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1937 Dodge D5 questions (with some '41 questions also)

Guest Kelsey

By Guest Kelsey
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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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WELL.. thanks for the great pics.. Now, we have even a bigger mystery LOL!!

OK, so, My appears to have been , previously, done up like a 37 Plymouth.. (only because my pics show me that) but it IS a 37 Dodge.. So, where do we go from here?

Steel Rubber shows a swing out windshield kit that has both frame and body rubber (like the 36 D2 mentions)..

Hmmmm... this is so odd.. I wonder if I have a 37 Plymouth window frame or something?

Anyway.. I have removed the glass and have had the frome only sitting in the bost since this started on Sunday.. I lubed it up with Fluid Film and when I checke dthis morning.. the frame would go in MUCH easier..Still not sure if it will crank in and out. but it did slip in much easier and I hope the glass install will not upset this..??

I do not like the looks of the moulding on the body.. it is much cleaner without it.. So, that would be what is preferred even though when it was not like this when I disassembled it BUT.. who is to say what changes/alterations were made in its life my Dad is no longer with us to tell me../

So, I think I will give it a few more days "forming" itself in the body , install the glass and see what happens.. In the mean time I hope 1936 D2 will provide me with body moulding part number for the 36 and I can see if that is the route I should go.. This car maybe a late 36 since it did require 36 Bumper rubbers because the 37's were not correct.. so who knows?? Could have a mix match year car??

So, 1936 D2, you got a part number and source for the body windshield moulding?? PLEASE!

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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steele shows a kit. Steele Rubber Products - Search Results

I called them and asked if they would send me a sample of the moulding so I could seeif it is correct,, and they said YES.. so, that is good news!

I also looked up some "shapes" on Metro's website and asked them if they would send me some samples. and they said YES!.. so, batting 1000 so far...

metro did not have all the ones I THOUGHT may be correct.. so hopefully what shows will have the correct one in there..

So, we are making some headway...

Thanks for all the help.. and 1936 D2.. Still interested in the part number you used on your car

Kelsey

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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Also, the 37 Dodge has the chrome with the Ply being plain around the window frame.

The pics,you posted, show the 37 Ply with the moulding on the body and shows the 37 Dodge withthe moulding on the window frame... Am I seeing this wrong?

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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209961d1377100889-1937-dodge-d5-questions-some-41-img_5727.jpg

I did just notice one thing on your Dodge pic..The moulding does not cover the entire frame.. It looks to only sit on the outer rail.. My moulding (that is supposedly correct for 37 Dodge) covers the entire inside of the frame.. If mine only covered the outer rail (llike shown in your pics) I would not have this interference issue..

So, I ask.. can you see any indication of there ever being moulding on the entire inside of the frame on your 37 Dodge?

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jpage 10,000+ Points

jpage

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The Steel Rubber no. for the frame gasket is 40-0329-50 and fits all the closed cars. Steele only shows one gasket set for the windshield body seal for '35-'37 and that's no. 70-1276-52. It may or may not fit well. It claims to have the "special"seal for the bottom . I bought one for my '36 Dodge and it does not fit properly. The '36's use a bottom gasket that fits under the front of the dashboard and lays over the body opening with a hole in for the windshield crank. I've found that the inner seal has a leg that's too short to wrap around the posts properly and that the bottom gasket was too big with the screw holes in the wrong location.

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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Good to know... Thanks

OK, some good news for a change...

Fat Fender Relics has fixed my trim piece that the chrome house broke.. Dave is one awesome guy and happens to be an expert in the Dodge 30's and 40's cars.. So, I asked him about the windshield mouldings/gaskets.. and he tells me that allof them in 37 should only have moulding on the window frame.. He is not sure why those pics show otherwise, but he is confident that the correct way is to have it only on the frame..

I also ran into a part that I simply can not figure out where it goes.. Unless it goes on the front clip or gas cap area, I am stumped... (nothing new.. right?) So, Iwill post a pic and hope that one of you guys knows where this thing goes

Thanks

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post-30646-143142153883_thumb.jpg

Edited by Kelsey (see edit history)
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Guest 1930

Guest 1930

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Good to know... Thanks

OK, some good news for a change...

Fat Finger relics has fixed my trim piece that the chrome house broke.. Dave is one awesome guy and happens to be an expert in the Dodge 30's and 40's cars.. So, I asked him about the windshield mouldings/gaskets.. and he tells me that allof them in 37 should only have moulding on the window frame.. He is not sure why those pics show otherwise, but he is confident that the correct way is to have it only on the frame..

I also ran into a part that I simply can not figure out where it goes.. Unless it goes on the front clip or gas cap area, I am stumped... (nothing new.. right?) So, Iwill post a pic and hope that one of you guys knows where this thing goes

Thanks

Are those move canisters under the glass? If so what years are the films?

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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Are those move canisters under the glass? If so what years are the films?

No they are just round foam pieces... I use them to elevate the glass and to keep things soft...

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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Well.. the saga continues..

Got the trunk and the doors back from the body shop.. got the rest of my chrome pieces back from the plate house....

So, got the doors installed and the stainless trim installed also.. Looks really good.. happy about that..When installing the glass, found out I had a "flattened off" channel guide knub so when I would raise the window it would pop off the window crank scissor.. Just so happens I had another crank assy (from another model) that I had bought on EBAY years back.. so, I ground off the channel knub, popped it out, and installed it in my scissor assy.. Problem solved.. If only that were the only problem,,,,LOL

So, turn out I g=have the wrong door handle gaskets.. so no handle installs.. Also turns out I was sent the wrong trunk handle gasket AND completely wrong trunk lid moulding.. Wait.. there is more... Oh Ya...

So, I grabbed my shiney new trunk handle to see how it looks and to pre-fit it.. Well I notice they disassembled the lock (which sits inside the handle on 37) then I noticed a brand new key in the disassembled lock piece... I thought " that is odd.. why is there a new key?" So, I get all the pieces together and see that they had installed a new "key" pieces, hence the new key.. So, again,, ODD.. but should be fine.. WRONG... So, turns out they had bent my inner locking piece (the one that locks the handle to the square shaft) and the sliding lock part will not even slide.. So, time with a file and punch and anvil and tha this back in working order.. Now.. let's get this guy assembled. YUP. the new key mechanism simply does not fit/connect correctly with the inner lock piece..

So, after playing with that for about an hour.. I came to the conclusion that this new key piece is simply incorrect and will not work..functionally that is...It will not UNLOCK the inner lock mechanism.. So, that was a bummer .. then to top it off.. the key mechanism will NOT stay in the handle.. There is little spring loaded pin on the side that holds it to the handle, this works fine, but the pin does not reach the correct place in the handle to hold.. they the outer edge of the key has no way to lock to the handle either.. not sure if they chromed over it or again, the the difference between the correct one and this one they "snuck" in..

So, I have no way to lock the trunk or even keep the locking mechanism secure in the handle.. Gotta love it!!

So, does anybody have a 37 trunk lock, disassemble or assembled, that they could show me so, I know what I am loooking for? This would be VERY helpful!!

Thanks

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1936 D2 5,000+ Points

1936 D2

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The Steel Rubber no. for the frame gasket is 40-0329-50 and fits all the closed cars. Steele only shows one gasket set for the windshield body seal for '35-'37 and that's no. 70-1276-52. It may or may not fit well. It claims to have the "special"seal for the bottom . I bought one for my '36 Dodge and it does not fit properly. The '36's use a bottom gasket that fits under the front of the dashboard and lays over the body opening with a hole in for the windshield crank. I've found that the inner seal has a leg that's too short to wrap around the posts properly and that the bottom gasket was too big with the screw holes in the wrong location.

"Kelsey" - very sorry for the delayed response.The current catalog from "Steele" shows that the two numbers "jpage" refers to are the current correct numbers for your car's windshield gaskets. And take note I mention gaskets in the plural.

The '36's windshield is a bit different than the '37. It is pointed on the bottom two corners where yours is rounded just like the top corners. When you go to the "Steele" site, you enter your car info on the left and it shows all of the gaskets that work for any models with the criteria you enter. So some of the gasket selections shown may be for possibly truck versions or possibly export versions. You have to be a bit careful when making a selection. But again, I think "jpage" has identified the correct gaskets for your car.

The following are a few photos of the gasket applications to my '36 Dodge D2. They are similar and for reference only in the case of your '37.

post-67404-143142160807_thumb.jpg

The first shot here shows the two gaskets as installed on the '36. The second shot shows the indentation of the windshield frame gasket fitting the shape of the outer edge of the frame. This is the part where some have installed the gasket inside out causing a poor fit both on the edge of the frame and then getting the wrong flair as the gasket pulls up on the body surface when the windshield is closed. I would think this gasket would fit in a similar fashion on the '37 except it is in a continuous loop where the '36 version needs to be cut and glued together at the tips of the bottom corners.

The inner gasket comes in two sections. The bottom piece is sort of form fitted as "jpage" has described. It has two ends that go up the side of the body opening about 3" or so and has an opening in the center for the window crank out tape. The other piece is fitted around the rest of the opening except where the top hinges are. Then the bottom two corners of this gasket are Super Glued to the tops of the bottom pieces' ends, making a full surround except for the hinge areas.

post-67404-143142160841_thumb.jpg

http://www.steelerubber.com/ (Use the search on the left of this web page for either vehicle description info OR specific part number search.)

The 40-0018-52 number gasket is the one that I used on the '36. This is a straight length of gasket material. It is not formed in the 107 & 3/8" loop that is specified by the number "jpage' mentioned. It seems as though the gasket is the same material shape. Just one is made into the loop for the '37 windshield frame and the other is an 11 foot length that needs to be cut and fit to length for the '36. The body side gasket is the same for both cars.

You can also see that the body gasket is quite spongy and takes on the shape of what is pressed into it. On my '36's body side gasket you can see the screws from the back side of the window frame lower corners leaving indentations in this skinned foam gasket down in the lower corners.

I also THINK that the cars with static , non-movable windshields my be the ones mentioned by others as having the single gasket set. Those windshields that crank out have the double gasket sets.

I think this should now pretty much answer the windshield gasket questions for you. (I hope).

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Edited by 1936 D2
Added photos and data (see edit history)
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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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From what I have gathered speaking with others and looking around.. The 37 should not have any weatherstripping on the body.. it should all be on the windshield frame...

I think you see the gaskets on the body to fix leaks because the OEM method simply does not seal that well (kinda what I am running into).

IMO, It certainly looks better to NOT have it on the body.. Still not sure what I am going to do about mine.... I will reinstall the windshield this weekend and will know more then

On another note...I decided to make a little mod to keep the window drain hoses from just draining into the body side panels... I took the drain hoses and then got a brass barbed reducer (1/4" to 1/8") and got some very thin walled 1/8" id hose.. I wanted this thin walled smaller hose so I would not have to drilll as large of a hole.. so, I connected the smaller tubing to the larger then drilled a small hole near the body mount and pulled the hose thru so it drains outside vs. inside... I had some grommets (small ones) that I was going to use, but after pulling the hose thru without the grommet , first, I was content with that so decided not to use the grommets and have to drill a larger hole..

So, now, I drain outside so that should be a good thing..

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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Does anybody have any sources for either new data tags or reconditioning of original ones? I found a new serial number tag plate and will have that redone by a guy in Colorado (www.datatags.com) but he can not do the firewall tags.. So, anybody know who can? Mine are in good shape, just not show shape?

Let me know

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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Is this the type of thing your after ?

If it is......I make em ! ha...didn't expect that one did ya !

I make them and then ship them worldwide. They are acid etched. I have attached a few pics of the ones on my car for you.

Cheers

Ian

WOW.. Good on ya Ian..... YUP.. Mine are Red in color... Can you do Red and can you etch in my numbers? I willtake some pics and post them for you to see...

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Ian_Greenlaw 5,000+ Points

Ian_Greenlaw

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I only do black at the moment but I have been asked to do red. The next batch I will have red ( I think they call it post box red ) done as well. It will probably be approx 8 weeks away at this stage ( hope thats ok )

Unfortunately I can't do numbers. A friend lent me his set of old number punches and after a few trials runs I got up enough courage to stamp my body number.

Came up looking pretty good ( you can see them further back in this thread ).

When you send your pics through I'll check the colour against a few other pics I have and then I'll order that colour plates.

Cheers

Ian

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Ian_Greenlaw 5,000+ Points

Ian_Greenlaw

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Hi Kelsey,

Another Dodge member sent me a photo of his id plate. Looks a little redder than yours so I dont know if thats due to age or just a colour difference. The middle plate i guess is similar to my rectangular body number plate but again I don't have that shape. The third one is the serial number plate and I bought mine on ebay ( pic attached ) and then stamped the numbers myself ( very nervous on that one ). I've also attached a photo of a 36 Dodge where you can see the two plates too. I charge $30 for the large ones AACA guys ( $35 on ebay ) and $18 for the small one ( again $21 on ebay ) postage and packet usually runs at $8 to the USA.

Ian

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jpage 10,000+ Points

jpage

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Lavine Restorations now makes and sells all types of data tags. They bought out Pulfer and Williams several years ago. Very nice parts. There are no numbers stamped on any tags so you'll have to stamp on yuor own numbers. If your plates are good they may be able to reprint them for you.

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ply33 25,000+ Points

ply33

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It would help if I attached the pics wouldn't it !

Did Dodge do it differently than Plymouth?

The serial number tag on my '33 has the words "Serial Number" running down on the right side instead of up on the left side. Also held on with a nail headed looking fastener (I assume drive nail, but never had it off) instead of screws.

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1936 D2 5,000+ Points

1936 D2

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Did Dodge do it differently than Plymouth?

The serial number tag on my '33 has the words "Serial Number" running down on the right side instead of up on the left side. Also held on with a nail headed looking fastener (I assume drive nail, but never had it off) instead of screws.

Probably not. I would think the tag application was similar on matching years of Dodge and Plymouth.

That maroon '36 Dodge that is used in many reference sets of photos has quite a few things "wrong" with it and should not be taken as gospel. The photos from that frame off restoration maroon '36 Dodge look very nice but whom ever did the restore was not careful about authenticity. For instance: The top red Manufacturer's Tag is correct (so is Ian's) but the lower Body Number Tag (with the word "MoPar" at the top) is wrong for the '36. Both of these tags were originally held on with pan head machine screws. (Also, many of the engine compartment decals were for later model cars, not the '36).

The black Serial Number Tag looks correct. It is readable from the outside of the vehicle (bottom to top with the words in the inside edge). This seems to hold true for Dodges and Plymouths of this age, be they Domestic or Export, made in the US or Canada, or Australia. This tag is held in place with a drive screw (no slot in head) for "security" purposes.

Typical Serial Number Tag - ('36 Plym):

post-67404-14314216792_thumb.jpg

Typical Firewall Tags - ('36 Plym). Note black rectangular Body Number Tag:

post-67404-14314216793_thumb.jpg

Typical Firewall Tags - ('36 Dodge). Note red oval Body Number Tag. Says "Body Number" at the top:

post-67404-143142167937_thumb.jpg

Typical Serial Number Tag - ('36 Dodge) showing location, tag direction and screw nails:

post-67404-143142167944_thumb.jpg

Serial Number Tag on Export model '36 Dodge 7 Passenger Limo:

post-67404-143142167992_thumb.jpg

Edited by 1936 D2 (see edit history)
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ply33 25,000+ Points

ply33

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Probably not. I would think the tag application was similar on matching years of Dodge and Plymouth.

. . .

The black Serial Number Tag looks correct. . .

Just occurred to me: My '33 has "suicide" front opening doors so the hinge post is to the rear. To have the words "serial number" readable from outside the car it would be in the other orientation from cars with rear opening doors. . .

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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Worked on the car again from Friday straight (14 hours each day)

The glass, all but front windshield is in.. All windows crank perfect and have the side garnish mouldings with glass all done and functioning.. Finished installing the exhaust system also.

Now, I wait for the trunk mouldings so I can get the trunk finished.. still dealing with the trunk handle debackle... Not sure how that is going to work out???

I am missing some moulding trim fasteners.. The supplier is out (permanently) and I may have to reort to t-bolts unless I can find some.

Anybody have any 1937 trim fasteners?

Also still unsure what this one part is.. I will post a pic in hope somebody here may know.

Shuld have all the trunk ready next week (when parts arrive) and, hopefully, my grill trim piece will get here next week so I can install the front clip.

post-30646-143142171325_thumb.jpg

post-30646-143142171329_thumb.jpg

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1936 D2 5,000+ Points

1936 D2

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Hi Kelsey,

There is no part on the '36 that looks anything like the one in your photo. The thing that does catch my eye though are the three pointed tangs on the one side. That style of design WAS used on the '36 for metal parts that attach to cloth upholstery pieces like the carpet snaps, the handle escutcheon rings and other assorted metal mounting hardware usually found along the edges of the upholstery pieces somewhere.

Could this be some kind of part that would pin into maybe the carpet, like near a seat mounting rail or such? Or is it possible this part was originally covered with fabric and this is the shaping piece for it? Maybe it has something to do with shielding the gas tank filler near the matting in the trunk?

It is a bit hard to imagine not knowing the size of the piece. Good luck with this search!

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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I was thinking along a similar line as "1936 D2".

ya it is a stumper for sure..

I do not have my fenders on or even in my shop so it could be a gas tank filler neck piece.. I simply can't remember where this thing goes..

It is 6" long (chordal width) and 3" tall.. So it is not real small..

I appreciate all the ideas and help.. Please keep them coming

Thanks

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Guest Kelsey

Guest Kelsey

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Yes, thank you. I got it,, There are some odd things with that car..LIke the trunk handle is 90 degrees out from normal, the door lower weatherstrip is no in the right place, the dash is different , especially the knobs... Curious as to why that car is so different from mine and most other 37's

(Kelsey: Sent email info that may be helpful. Look for it.)
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