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1937 Dodge D5 questions (with some '41 questions also)


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...Also, 3 of my 4 leaf springs have nice metal covers that wrap the springs.. one is missing the cover.. any idea where to locate this cover?...

Check this thread discussion out. There is some info in post #7 that may help.

http://forums.aaca.org/f143/1934-dodge-dr-model-4-door-325663.html. A lot of times many things had already been discussed here on the Forum. It would be advantageous for you to try some searches and just see what's out there. The answers could have extra data in them over and above what you may catch in a question here later.

By no means does this suggest you should not ask. Just be aware there may already be more out there. ;)

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Anybody have any info on the RHT AND LHT TIE ROD, which end goes on which side question?? I had...

also, that collectorsautosupply site is great.. it is plymouth related but many of the part numbers cross.. Just for reference.. wht is the equivilent Plymouth 1937 coupe model name?

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Anybody have any info on the RHT AND LHT TIE ROD, which end goes on which side question?? I had...

also, that collectorsautosupply site is great.. it is plymouth related but many of the part numbers cross.. Just for reference.. wht is the equivilent Plymouth 1937 coupe model name?

For 1937 you had the DeLuxe line (P4) and the Business line (P3). Both had business coupes (with trunks) and sport coupes (with rumble seat). There was also a convertible coupe in the P4 line which also had a rumble seat.

Chrysler had one engineering department that handled all makes so there are lots of common parts between lines, especially between Plymouth and Dodge in the 1930s. And they had one part number scheme. Makes it easier to find parts some times if you know that the turbodiscombobulator you are looking for has the same part number on DeSoto and therefore was also used on DeSoto, etc.

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Anybody have any info on the RHT AND LHT TIE ROD, which end goes on which side question?? I had...

I may get shot down in flames for saying this; but I don't think it matterswhich way it goes. Think of it like a turnbuckle (or rigging screw). So long as it is straight and not shaped to go on one way, I think it should be o.k.; the way it came off.

Ray.

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.According to the front axle diagrams the locking nuts and grease fittings point toward the axle but I really don't think it matters as long as everything clears. Good luck on the spring covers,I think they are a little harder to find in good condition. All the ones I have ever seen look as though they have been through the war! I had to nix mine they were so bad. You may have to find a another spring to find a useabl one!

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. Good luck on the spring covers,I think they are a little harder to find in good condition. All the ones I have ever seen look as though they have been through the war! I had to nix mine they were so bad. You may have to find a another spring to find a useabl one!

You might not want to have odd springs so perhaps look for a pair. Suggest try searching this site history; the subject of spring covers has been done before. I think you may have difficulty in fitting one, even if you found it! They do look smart but I personally would use Denso tape. All the best.

Ray.

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Hey Ray,

That's the second time recently you mentioned Denso tape. I am unfamiliar with that product. What is it and why does it seem to be so good for covering the leaf springs? How do you lube the leaves once it is on there? (The metal covers have a small hole and there is a special lubing tool that straps around the metal covers and allows pressurized lube to be forced into the cover under pressure through this small hole). Does the Denso work in a similar fashion once in place?

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Sorry, 1936D2 (what is your name please?) I should have explained. Denso tape is simply wrapped around pre greased springs. Presumably us Brits are either too lazy or too mean to invest in presurised covers. On the other hand, the problem is not so much about keeping the lubrication in, as keeping the grit and salt out. Then again, most vehicles with leaf springs don't have any protection at all - and seem to manage O.K. I think to keep a car original is the ideal way to go, so if you can, find some new spring covers. You will find them in with the rocking horse ,,,,, (sorry, Moderator watching).

Ray.

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PETRO/DENSO TAPE 50MM | HOME | TAPES, ADHESIVES & PACKAGING | TAPES | PLUMBING TAPES |

This is the cheapest I can find. No need to pay much for it, although you would not be the first American enthusiast to have difficulty in getting hold of a small quantity. After you have wrapped the greased spring with the tape (it is a horrible job so wear gloves) the usual method is to bind the spring with 'French whipping' or sash cord. The better alternative, if you can afford it is to tie on leather gaiters.

If this all sounds a bit kinky, believe me it is not! :o

Ray.

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Kelsey ,I do have 1 stop screw left! I did notice that there are 2 different styles(at least in '36) ,one has a "bell"shaped head and the other is a smaller hex head. Iwould imagine that the hex style is a later version. In any case I think it will work!. I send it with the screen today! JIm

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Kelsey ,I do have 1 stop screw left! I did notice that there are 2 different styles(at least in '36) ,one has a "bell"shaped head and the other is a smaller hex head. Iwould imagine that the hex style is a later version. In any case I think it will work!. I send it with the screen today! JIm

For Plymouth, the '36-'48 parts book shows this which matches the look of the ones on my '33. For Plymouth there were two different part numbers with '37 being the dividing line between the two and '37 used either the earlier or later depending on the wheels fitted. Plymouth Parts Interchange: Group 2 — Axle — Front — Steering Knuckle or Arm Stop Screw

2-05-07.jpg

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OK, This should be an easy one (hopefully) ..

Getting the car ready for Soda Blasting... Started to remove all the stainless trim.. Well not all of those 75 year old clips made it through the removal...

So, I figured they were a common clip that is easliy found.. NOPE...

So, I am assumming that they are standard on all the cars around this year..

So, question is... Who has these guys?? I guess I better just replace all of them even though most of them are fine...

Thanks

Kelsey

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OK, This should be an easy one (hopefully) ..

Getting the car ready for Soda Blasting... Started to remove all the stainless trim.. Well not all of those 75 year old clips made it through the removal...

So, I figured they were a common clip that is easliy found.. NOPE...

So, I am assumming that they are standard on all the cars around this year..

So, question is... Who has these guys?? I guess I better just replace all of them even though most of them are fine...

Thanks

Kelsey

Found them!!!

Restoration Specialties.. These guys have everything!! http://restorationspecialties.com/2011_Catalog_Web.pdf

Now just trying to figure out which hood bumpers are for my car

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WOW !!!!

What a fantastic supplier. I wonder if they will ship to the U.K.? I will give them a try when I need an illusive fixing clip or fastener.

I do love this forum.

Tankyou Kelsey.

Ray.

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Ray, Restoration Specialties ships worldwide. You can access their catalog at the site mentioned by Kelsey. Thay also have alot of old stock parts (especially old top fasteners) that are not listed in the catalog! I think they also have E-mail access now! We( when I worked there) did a lot of business in the U.K. and the land down under! I always tell people to be very careful about the old clips;too many restorers find out too late that the clips are no longer available. It's a good thing Kelsey had a '37 and not a '36, most of those clips are long gone! Side note to all '36 Dodge owners....Restoration Specialties now has the 1355 clip for the thin spears on the hood!

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That's great news, Jim. I am not surprised they do a lot of business outwith the States. We have nothing like the variety from the usual suppliers in the U.K. (although, now I have said that I expect someone will correct me! )

Thanks for the info'

Ray.

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OK, stainless and glass is all out and it is ready for soda blast in 2 weeks time..

While disassembling the glass and door parts I noticed something (well, a few things) that I never noticed before.. Maybe you guys have some ideas as to why

1) The passenger side ONLY has a lock.. The driver's sode has not lock and no hole for a locking mechanism.. Any idea as to why they would do this?

2) there little rubber pieces that side just below the BOTTOM of the opening in the door for the window... I think they keep some cushion for the glass as it is sliding up and down int he door..

EDIT: Found them.. Called Glass Bumpers.. part # 4022.. RestorationSpecialties has it again.. These guys are great!

3) OK.. The window channel I got new from Roberts seems to be coming apart (never installed just stored ina box for 9 years) anyway, it is obviously not a great channel.. Any thoughts on who makes the best window channel? I see resatoration specialties has much channel.. but not sure which part fits my 37?? Any help on this one??

Thanks

Edited by Kelsey (see edit history)
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Door locks on curb side only were in an effort by manufacturers to support popular law at the time that you could not enter traffic via the Driver or left rear Passenger doors from a parked position. So, they put the door lock on the side where the driver would exit the vehicle. (Maybe people were a bit more spry back then and could slide across the seat easily! NOT so easy for me now!)

The rubber, if I am following your description correctly, are small rubbers that are inside the door at the bottom of the opening for the window glass. I would guess that they are there as an anti-rattle feature for the rolled up window glass. Buffeting of the side glass may occur at high [45mph ;-) ] speed so these are in there to prevent the window lower frame from rattling on the door metal. Just a guess on my part. You may have to manufacture these using standard stock rubber if not supplied by a vendor such as Steele Rubber Products. Maybe they are in good enough shape to withstand the soda blasting and can be used again. Just mask them off maybe? I don't know what they look like in a '37.

Edited by 1936 D2 (see edit history)
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If you send Restoration Specialties a sample they should have it. I'm not sure if the '37 has front vent windows or not. If yours does not and the front window rolls rearward before it goes down it has "batwing" channels in the front. I can help you with those as they need to be rebuilt. Some early Mopars had a vent window that rolled down with the door glass and RS can help you those also! Sometimes on the flexible channels,especially with the fabric edged types the material will separate from the skeleton where it folds over. You can remedy this by simply regluing the fabric with a good water resistant contact cement or a gel type super glue made for fabric and rubber. On some cars,like sedans the rear window channel may be a different profile than the fronts. Some cars also used a retaining clip to hold the channels in place,some just relied on a friction fit. Many times you'll see pieces of cardstock stapled to channels to shim them in the doors. I pretty sure that there is just one manufacture for window channel today, Standard Products MFG.,actually the same company that originally made channels for tha auto industry,but as business goes,they are not exactly the same as in years past, but they are still pretty close! As with any product ,age can be a factor---nothing lasts forever!

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This stuff never ends...LOL

My interior door and window handles are a mix match.. So, looking for the correct ones and want to stay aways from the Cheap Chinese reproductions..

So, who has the GOOD handles??

Thanks in advance

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As far as I know if you want original handles you'll have to find originals and replate them. Most of the suppliers sell "new" handles but I'm pretty sure they are "new replacement" parts that will fit the application but that are not always exact to the original! I don't know what a '37 handle looks like. If they're similar to '36 I have a couple left. Post some pics!

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As far as I know if you want original handles you'll have to find originals and replate them. Most of the suppliers sell "new" handles but I'm pretty sure they are "new replacement" parts that will fit the application but that are not always exact to the original! I don't know what a '37 handle looks like. If they're similar to '36 I have a couple left. Post some pics!

well according to Roberts pics.. Mine are not correct.. Here are the pics from Roberts Catalogue

post-30646-143139057184_thumb.jpg

post-30646-143139057186_thumb.jpg

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Wow! Where are all the '37 Dodge guys. Looks like Kelsey is going to have a pretty regular series of questions here specifically on the '37 and we haven't heard from them!

Come on you '37 guys. Help him out! :D

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They look "close" but something doesn't seem right. See these shots at this link (page 4) from an earlier '37 Dodge post...

Yes, those look like mine (at least 2 of the 4).. So, not sure what is going on..

Both Roberts and Bernbaums tell me that the pics I posted are correct for the year, yet, mine look like the 37's in the link you posted..

So, if Roberts and Bernbaums state otherwise.. Not sure how to get the right ones?

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Like "jpage" said, keep checking on eBay or such. Maybe one of the '37 guys (if they ever see this post) may have extras they would sell. Who knows.

The remanufactured ones from resellers you will find are many times "close but no cigar" for a match. They may be made from a Chrysler or Plymouth sample or something and then they say they are also for other models to help lift sales. These are things you really have to keep an eye on - just like you are doing. I don't play that game myself. If they can't put out something that I know is right, and specify it is for the right models, they lose some of my respect as a buyer. What you have here is a good example of that.

Just keep looking around now that you know what you need. They will show up eventually.

Also, there may be slight differences in your knobs between the driver's door and other doors. The '36 is like that. (See photo below of '36 handle set). The driver door window crank on a '36 has a flat knob while all the other doors have an acorn shaped knob. That is for clearance with the steering wheel. Maybe the '37 is somewhat like that too?

post-67404-143139057803_thumb.jpg

Edited by 1936 D2
more data (see edit history)
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Kelsey,

Attached are three photos of the window crank and door handle from my '37 D5. The photo with both handles in it is from the front door, the other two photos are of the rear door.

multicepter

[ATTACH]133584[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]133585[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]133586[/ATTACH]

yup...

Those look like mine as well.. I am going to send these pics to Roberts Motor Parts and see if he had replacement handles that fit the 37.. Not sure what the ones he is selling fits in terms of year.. But is is apparent, now, that it is not 37 D5..

Thanks again

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yup... Those look like mine as well... I am going to send these pics to Roberts Motor Parts and see if he had replacement handles that fit the 37.. Not sure what the ones he is selling fits in terms of year.. But is is apparent, now, that it is not 37 D5... Thanks again

Excellent idea! But I would guess that if you look into his ads again in say 6 months or a year, they will read the same. (Example: Fits 28-38 cars & 28-50 trucks for the door handle you show in post #68! Geez!) They just need to sell parts. :(

BTW: His part number is "T130". Starts with a "T". I am going to assume, by looking at his part numbering convention, that those were originally copied from a truck handle of some type.

Edited by 1936 D2 (see edit history)
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Excellent idea! But I would guess that if you look into his ads again in say 6 months or a year, they will read the same. (Example: Fits 28-38 cars & 28-50 trucks for the door handle you show in post #68! Geez!) They just need to sell parts. :(

BTW: His part number is "T130". Starts with a "T". I am going to assume, by looking at his part numbering convention, that those were originally copied from a truck handle of some type.

Yes, I think the T is for truck.. But they are the only ones listed for the year and it does say fits cars as well..

I actually like the looks of those handles.. But would prefer the correct ones..

I have been happy with Roberts, so far, we have hit a few "bumps" with all the parts I have ordered from them.. But they answer their phone and return emails.. This says something, considering, some other shops have parts I am trying to order but they will not return emails or phone calls.. Not sure how this "method" sells any parts.. LOL

Side note: Put the car back to a "roller" so that I can roll it onto the trailer for Soda blast in a few weeks...

Now, it is time to replace all the gaskets on the engine and get it painted up nice (blue block and black covers and accessories).. Hopefully, it looks good..

I am waiting for more parts to arrive from Roberts (hopefully today) and then I should hav 99% of all the new parts I require.. I am literally replacing every piece of rubber on this car with new rubber.

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OH, Just noticed my rear view mirror's ball socket is not good.. and the Roberts mirror does not even resemble my mirror and I know mine is correct (already checked into it)

So, you know what's coming.. Anybody know where to source a correct rear view Mirror?

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So, in '37, they went to a blue color block instead of the silver used in '36?

Got a photo of the mirror hanging around?

I really do not know what color the block was in 37.. Prob Silver.. But we are straying from Orig on the color on the engine and body..

I will post a pic of a mirror on EBAY that is like mine

post-30646-143139059036_thumb.jpg

post-30646-143139059037_thumb.jpg

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