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1937 Dodge D5 questions (with some '41 questions also)


Guest Kelsey

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Guest Kelsey

Jason, I have not spoke with the plate house yet.. I wanted to talk with Dave first and I did at length.. Man.. he is a nice guy..

Anyway he is going to fix it for me.. not sure if we can save the nut on it but at least it will be straight and fixed..

I plan on speaking with the plate people tomorrow.. I wanted to have all my ducks in a row with Dave before I called them

Dave, kept my old trim piece and sent me a spare he had.. I asked him today why and he said that he makes the short trim pieces from this piece and he could use mine to make them for others.. So, he charged me $25.00 ..

Again.. what a super guy.. VERY knowledgeable on these things as well.. I really appreciate you turning me on to him...

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Guest Kelsey
I assume this screw and clip? This screw should be easy to find. Just the screw or the clip too?

I just need the screw.. but hold off a bit.. Dave, the trim fix it guy, thinks he has one of the screws in his stash.. So, since he is getting my ruined trim, I am hoping to get one from him

If not, I am glad you have one as well.. I can not believe all the kindness that surrounds this forum.. Is this a DODGE thing? LOL

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I just need the screw.. but hold off a bit.. Dave, the trim fix it guy, thinks he has one of the screws in his stash.. So, since he is getting my ruined trim, I am hoping to get one from him

If not, I am glad you have one as well.. I can not believe all the kindness that surrounds this forum.. Is this a DODGE thing? LOL

They don't call it Dodge BROTHERS for no reason. Hahahahahahahahahaha.

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I am also glad that Jason (1930) posted this link. I will be keeping it on file for future reference because there is hardly anyone that I can think of over here who can do this sort of trim work without charging a fortune and making a big song and dance about it into the bargain.

Ray.

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Guest Kelsey

OK.. I have found and scheduled my interior getting done.

I want to put the winged Dodge Brothers Emblem in the door panels (stitched or embossed in)

Problem is.. I need a pattern to give to the upholstery guy.

Does anybody know where on the web or anywhere.. I can find something like this that I could print out to give him?

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So, does anybody have any contacts for the emblem restoration?

I am surprised no-one answered this yet, just recently ..........within just the last couple of weeks the same question was asked, an immediate answer was given, shortly after that if I remember correctly someone else piped in by saying that the same restoration shop did excellent work, I do not remember the name of the place, I do not think that the topic was buried within another thread, do a search and I am pretty sure you will find the information pretty easily.

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Guest Kelsey

Well.. It keeps getting better.. Good news is Dave has my broken trim piece and thinks he can fix it..

bad news.. I guess, I didn't think this was as big of a deal as it really is.. but my steering tie rod was bent. so when you go to adjust the alignment, it does not turn on centerline..

so, I guess I have 2 choices... 1) find a good used one (part # 666414) or 2) have one made.

So, does anybody have a spare tie rod they want to sell?

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It appears that dodge has the same mid year crisis as Plymouth in 37, parts change after a certain serial number. (Dash went to safety knobs) Have sent you excerpts from master parts book. I will look in top of barn late this week and see if I saved a spare. I know I saved an front axle.

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Guest Kelsey
Tie rod seems to have right and left threads on end and is 43 and 1/4 long. It was titled by motor (Car it came from) so I have no idea if early or late 37.

If the threads are 3/4-16.. then that is the correct shaft..

I had mine straightened.. I have not put it back on yet.. but would still be interested in one that has never been bent and restraightened..I would also be interested in the axle but I am afraid to findout how much it would cost to ship it...

But I will gladly buy the tie rod and the head light adjust screw...

Thanks

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3/4 and 16 it is. Took me a while to find the thread gauge. Not sure screw can be saved,(Its yours) but I'm sure that's a common arrangement on RiteWay buckets. I will look and see if anything else will work, next week when I'm wandering around the old cars. Looks easy to make.

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Guest Kelsey

Well...

The "snags" just keep a comin'.... Went out to install the front windshield this morning... figured.. this should not take too long...

Got the setting tape around the glass very nice... installed the 2 piece frame and trimmed the tape.. Looked great! except 1 corner of the glass did not sit as far in the frame as it should have.. Figured they just made a slight error in the cutting of it.. No big deal I could live with it...

OK, next, I had 2 sets of windshield frame to body moulding, 1 from Roberts and 1 from ( I think it was Steele) the Roberts one was less pliable so I figured I would use the other one.. Got the 3m Adhesive all on it and got it all laid down perfect. Very happy, at this point...

Went to install onto the car and, guess what??, the moulding is too thick... You could not even come close to getting it to sit where it needs.. So, I compare that moulding to the Roberts moulding and , sure enough, the roberts moulding was thinner.. it was correct.. So, I pulled off all the freshly installe dmoulding , cleaned up all the adhesive mess and then installed the other moulding.. OK, definitely thinner.. I thought "this will work great".. WRONG! much closer.. but it appears that my upper frame half is not shaped correctly (remember the glass not siting right in this corner?) and simply will not fit!

OK, the 2 frame halves are "butted" together so I figured I better grind a tad on one half so that they will not make contact... Did that, of course, I had to remove my freshly installed glass!

So, did some specific grinding.. left the glass out and tried to fit just the frame onto the car.. Same deal.... NO GO... the upper corners are simply not the right shape .. So, I did some more grinding.. still no good... the lower frame fits excellent but the upper is just shaped a bit wrong... The upper corners need to be bent in more..

So, I tried to bend then by hand and got it a little better but it is still impossible to get the empty frame to sit flush on the car.. Not sure how or why this is because there are no bends or "tweeks" on the stainless trim around the frame.. all looks great.. but it will not fit.. So, I currently have a tied down strap choked down around each end in the HOPES that it will re-shape this thing.. but I do not think that this is going to work..

So, I am stumped!!

Anybody else ever ran into this??

Edited by Kelsey (see edit history)
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Kelsey....do you have any photos so that we could see exactly what you mean? Is the two-piece frame a front and back piece or a right side and left side? In photos of 1937s it looks like an upper and lower piece. Sounds like either the glass was cut wrong or the frame was tweaked during disassembly.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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Guest Kelsey

It is an upper half and lower half front windshield frame... Like I said, with the glass OUT, I can not get the frames (when connected together) to install.. So, the galss is not the problem.. It is definitely the upper frame but there are no signs, AT ALL, of it being bent... very odd.

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Guest Kelsey

Well.. it keeps getting better.....

My old glass is saved and intact.. so I decided I would lay it all out and compare it to the new glass.. ALL is very close except, yup, you guessed it, the front windshield.. That "low" corner that I mentioned, well, that part IS a glass problem, they have it cut wrong JUST at that corner, the other corner is fine.. So, not only do I have a tweeked upper frame I have a windshield that is cut wrong in that same area.. it just doesn't get any better than this....

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Guest Kelsey
Well.. it keeps getting better.....

My old glass is saved and intact.. so I decided I would lay it all out and compare it to the new glass.. ALL is very close except, yup, you guessed it, the front windshield.. That "low" corner that I mentioned, well, that part IS a glass problem, they have it cut wrong JUST at that corner, the other corner is fine.. So, not only do I have a tweeked upper frame I have a windshield that is cut wrong in that same area.. it just doesn't get any better than this....

Not only is it low at the corner , it is too tall at the top as well...

Trying to upload pics and having sme issues.. not sure why

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post-30646-143142147031_thumb.jpg

Edited by Kelsey (see edit history)
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I know it's no consolation, Kelsey but I also have a problem with the 2 piece screen on my '26 Touring. The lower and upper sections are not parallel. This means that the sealing strip between them is not watertight. I have resorted to sticking black self adhesive strips on the inside and the outside to cover the gap. I think in my case, the frame is twisted - probably as a result of accident damage in the distant past. As it happens, I have just learned that the correct screen for my car should be a one piece. The existing screen is too short which meant the top came down too far and my head would touch it. The top is not correct for the car so as a temporary measure I have had to make a fillet which raises it above the screen by about 3". The appearance is neat but not original.

I know the problems are quite different but I felt you needed to know you are not alone in having big problems in this area.

Ray.

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Guest Kelsey

Stupid question.. But the moulding is suppose to install around the entire windshield.. correct??? The moulding is in ther proper and very tight... But without it on one half or theother, it would surely slip right in...OR should the bottom half of the windshield FRAME actually not seat fully in the channel on the body to allow for crank out? Just tossing things out there because I simply do not see how with a tight weatherstrip seal that the cranking in and out would ever work.. it is simply much too tight in there... Thoughts??

Now, just got back from trying it again after the tie strap had been on for a while.. with some lube on the moulding and some GENTLE persuasion , I managed to get it in.. BUT.. there would be no doing this using the window crank.. so, even though it is in (minus the glass) once you crank it out, it would never go back in again without the same effort..

Anybody got any ideas?? the more I think abuot it, the more I can NOT believe that this frame is tweeked.. It is simply much too rigid and how would such a piece get tweeked anyway? Tweeking it back is no small feat and besides, the trim around the edges of the frame is perfect.. So if it were tweeked, I suspect the trim would have indications

Edited by Kelsey (see edit history)
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Too bad I am 560 miles away or I would come and help you out. I have a feeling that you may have possibly tweaked the frame when installing it on the new glass. That may have done it just enough to irritate the whole fit. Maybe a glass shop is the next step for the installation??

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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Guest Kelsey
Too bad I am 560 miles away or I would come and help you out. I have a feeling that you may have possibly tweaked the frame when installing it on the new glass. That may have done it just enough to irritate the whole fit. Maybe a glass shop is the next step for the installation??

Well, I do appreciate the thought..

It is just odd, this frame fits so tight, I just donot see how the craking in and out is ever going to work.. Unless the lower half seal is designed to NOT sit fully seated in the body's channel

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Stupid question.. But the moulding is suppose to install around the entire windshield.. correct??? The moulding is in ther proper and very tight... But without it on one half or theother, it would surely slip right in...OR should the bottom half of the windshield FRAME actually not seat fully in the channel on the body to allow for crank out? Just tossing things out there because I simply do not see how with a tight weatherstrip seal that the cranking in and out would ever work.. it is simply much too tight in there... Thoughts??

Now, just got back from trying it again after the tie strap had been on for a while.. with some lube on the moulding and some GENTLE persuasion , I managed to get it in.. BUT.. there would be no doing this using the window crank.. so, even though it is in (minus the glass) once you crank it out, it would never go back in again without the same effort..

Anybody got any ideas?? the more I think abuot it, the more I can NOT believe that this frame is tweeked.. It is simply much too rigid and how would such a piece get tweeked anyway? Tweeking it back is no small feat and besides, the trim around the edges of the frame is perfect.. So if it were tweeked, I suspect the trim would have indications

You need to get ahold of someone with same set-up, give it a few days and I am sure someone will chime in that can clearly visualize what the set-up is and give you the needed help.

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Guest Kelsey
I have a 37-long wheel base that is all original. Any help on measuring something? Just saying.

Thanks for the offer...

Maybe just tell me if the bottom half of the window frame sits fully inside body channel or whether it kinda "rests" on the channel..

Hey, you would not have any extra grille trim moulding.. would ya??

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Guest Kelsey

I just thought of something else..

could it be that the moulding should be glued to the body vs. the frame? so, when you crank down the window it meets the moulding vs it supporting the moulding??

Countrytraveler,, can you loook and see which part the moulding is glued to?? Thanks

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I just thought of something else..

could it be that the moulding should be glued to the body vs. the frame? so, when you crank down the window it meets the moulding vs it supporting the moulding??

Countrytraveler,, can you loook and see which part the moulding is glued to?? Thanks

I'll check it tomorrow.

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Guest Kelsey
Had to go out of town, be back Wednesday to check the frame unless you got it fixed.

Not fixed yet.. Still got a ? mark hanging as to why it is what it is?

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If the '37 fitment is anything like the '36 I may have some points.

The '36 uses a double gasket setup. One section is applied to the static opening in the body and makes for a place that the inner edge of the windshield frame presses against as it closes.

The second gasket piece is fitted into the glass frame. This one follows the movable glass frame back toward the body opening and makes the "outer" seal. The two pieces working together seal the windshield.

It is common for people to install the outer gasket piece inside out. This will cause the outer glass frame to sit too far out and prevent the inside edge of that frame from sitting against the inner gasket.

If the '37's system uses any of these features the most common issue is messed up gasket placement. Maybe look closely at that as the possible issue.

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Guest Kelsey
If the '37 fitment is anything like the '36 I may have some points.

The '36 uses a double gasket setup. One section is applied to the static opening in the body and makes for a place that the inner edge of the windshield frame presses against as it closes.

The second gasket piece is fitted into the glass frame. This one follows the movable glass frame back toward the body opening and makes the "outer" seal. The two pieces working together seal the windshield.

It is common for people to install the outer gasket piece inside out. This will cause the outer glass frame to sit too far out and prevent the inside edge of that frame from sitting against the inner gasket.

If the '37's system uses any of these features the most common issue is messed up gasket placement. Maybe look closely at that as the possible issue.

Yes, this is what I was thinkning when I asked c ountry traveler to see if the frame sits inside the body cavity..

OK, I know I have the correct seal around the frame. it is on and 100% matches the lines in the frame itself... So, if what you are saying is correct, I need another gasket that attaches to the body cavity to "mesh" with the frame.. So, if this is the case, what is this moulding and where do I get it?

Would you mind posting some pics of your 36 in this area?

The thing that makes me leary of this is than in countrytravlers pic, I can not see any moulding attached to the body cavity .. Hopefully he can clear this up once he looks at his car (hopefully today) wierd.. is he the only 37 Dodge owner on this forum?? you would think that there would be more

Thanks and I think we will get some resolve soon

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Guest Kelsey

OK, I dug out some old pics of the car before disassembly.. Wouldn't ya know.. there is some good pics of this area.. and they clearly show that the moulding is on the BODY not the frame! 1 clearly shows that there is NO moulding on the fram at all.. I still think that there should be..

I will attach some pics but the pics in countrytravlers 37, I can not see the moulding on the body.. So, it is still a mystery at this time

AND , I suppose that the moulding could have originally been on the frame and came loose and stuck to the body after decades of sitting closed?? Thoughts?

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post-30646-143142152265_thumb.jpg

Edited by Kelsey (see edit history)
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