1955super Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Just when I thought it was over, it pulled me back in.I had this problem last year, but now I have another.http://forums.aaca.org/f115/dynaflow-cold-start-issue-drive-300990.htmlI had the Super Coupe in for paint and body. It took 90 days, and it's never looked better. Not even at the factory. I got a call to pick it up, and literally the call came 15 minutes later that I would probably need a tow truck because they couldn't get it into gear.So I brought the tow truck, had it towed to the only person I could find that actually has been rebuilding these things since they were new, in Glendale, Calif. He was optimistic last week, when I delivered it. Saying that these things are pretty much bulletproof, and rarely have any major issues.But today I got the bad news. I had to laugh when he told me. It was too funny.He told me that the entire innards of the transmission have been destroyed. All of the gears, bands, etc. The only things that are salvageable are the transmission case, and the bell housing.Again, I laughed. It sounded as if the inside of my Dynaflow was made out of Spaghetti O's. I'm going to visit it this weekend. I'll post photos. How often do you get to see a spaghetti transmission?Apparently some of the teeth had broken off of the gears, and gotten into the system, and one thing destroys another. I thank God that this happened while parked at a body shop rather than when I was flying down the freeway at 80 mph (which I do on a regular basis).Anyway, so now I need to:A. Find a donor transmission. Granted, being the same age, it could have similar problems, but he should be able to identify and replace anything bad he sees when opening up the donor transmission.B. Source and buy all of the hard parts.So I guess that the opinion I'm looking for. Whaddyathink I should do? Also, followup questions...-Are all Dynaflow's created equal? Is the Dynaflow from a Special with a 264 the same as a Dynaflow from a 322?-Assuming I go with option A, the folks on this thread http://forums.aaca.org/f115/55-vs-56-dynaflow-136014.htmlseem to believe that the 55 and 56 are interchangeable. Should I look for a 56? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 (edited) Keep it simple, be on the look out for a 1955 50 (Super) or 70 (Roadmaster) series tranny, they are out there.Not sure what this one is but may be worth checking out. BUICK DYNAFLOW TRANSMISSION Edited April 25, 2012 by MrEarl (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955super Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 Thank you. I've sent him an email.Anyone know how much a Dynaflow weighs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 (edited) I just looked at Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market and they have 3 listed, closest is in Tulsa. Just key in Buick Other and you will find them. I also have a friend here in Wi. that has a number of 1950's Buicks. I will check with him. He wants to start parting them out. I called my friend and he does have "some" but they are in cars and he says that his spring/summer is planned out until fall. He also said that at this time he is not interested in pulling the tranny, but would consider selling the whole car. Edited April 19, 2012 by DAVES89 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 1955 Buick 50-70 series is a direct fit. 40-60 series trannys are shorter but internal components that you need are the same. 1956 trannys are all the same length as 1955 50-70, but there may be differences in the rear mount, stator control, and for sure you will need a 55 universal joint since the spines of the driveshafts are different.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Take real look at this site,when I read what people here have written I think the best way is to look at this site.You can`t use a Dynaflow from 1956 becuse they have a lot more splines and they are not the same length. Leif in SwedenBuicks.net | Dynaflow Identification Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 Here are the place to find a digit,this`s my 1955 ser 50-70 Dynaflow.Just wonder why no one can take a look at there 1954 ser.50-70s Dynaflow and also 1955 ser 40-60 Dynaflow and tell here what digit it is.Just think about how much help that will give to people with Dynaflow problems.???? Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Brink Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 I'll leave it to others more knowledgeable than I as to interchange of '55 & '56 transmissions but assuming they are the same except for output shaft spline (and possibly rear mount?) it is really easy to exchange the output shaft and housing which would mean you can get a transmission for any model '55 or '56 and use your old transmission for parts if needed. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955super Posted April 20, 2012 Author Share Posted April 20, 2012 (edited) First, thank you everyone for the advice, suggestions, information. It's nice to have resources out there.I have a bit of good news. I found this within a few miles of my house. I believe it can be the right solution.Granted, this is from 1955 Century (aka Series 60), but with the 322 engine attached. If the posters in this thread are correct, we should be able to do a transplant of all of the essentials into the transmission case from my Series 50. Now comes the fun part. I have to remove the transmission myself. And I've never done such a thing. I'm sure I can probably do it, but my mehanical expertise so far includes replacing alternators, generators, ac compressors, power steering pumps.I believe I have all of the correct tools, and my transmission guy tells me that there are only 10 bolts (three on bottom, seven on top). He said there are four bolts at the rear of the transmission that attach to the driveshaft, and I should be able to jack up the rear end, which will give me enough room to slide the tranny out.I know for sure I need a second person for the lifting part. I might have to rely on the guy who has it, since I don't know if i can wrangle anyone. Maybe I can stop the local Home Depot if I need an extra hand.So I have a safety related question. -After I unbolt the three bottom bolts (apparently I have to do this first), do I have to worry about the tranny falling down?-After I unbolt the seven bolts on top, do I have to worry about the tranny falling down?-After I unbolt the driveshaft, do i have to worry about the tranny falling down?I'm sure you see a pattern here. Edited April 20, 2012 by 1955super (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 1955 Super.I really hope yo will read the digit on this 1955 ser 60 tranny and put it here so other people can see what digit it`s.The total length on this 1955 ser 50-70 tranny is around 26,5"-27". Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 I would advise going to a rent it shop and renting a transmission jack. That should address your fears of a tranny falling on you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955super Posted April 21, 2012 Author Share Posted April 21, 2012 1955 Super.I really hope yo will read the digit on this 1955 ser 60 tranny and put it here so other people can see what digit it`s.The total length on this 1955 ser 50-70 tranny is around 26,5"-27". Leif in Sweden.Hi Leif, I'll do that next week. It's in the shop and I won't make it back there until Tuesday, at the earliest.Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 1955super,no problem with that,just hope that even someone with a 1954 ser 50-70 will do the same.(read what digit it is there Dynaflow) Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 Leif, the next time I'm under one of my Roadies I'll check it out and report it so it can be added to the list. If anyone has one pulled and laying around, maybe they can clean it up and take a pic of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted April 22, 2012 Share Posted April 22, 2012 So I have a safety related question. -After I unbolt the three bottom bolts (apparently I have to do this first), do I have to worry about the tranny falling down?-After I unbolt the seven bolts on top, do I have to worry about the tranny falling down?-After I unbolt the driveshaft, do i have to worry about the tranny falling down?I'm sure you see a pattern here. 55 Super:1- there are 4 bolts holding the trans inspection plate that come off first.2- there are either 3 or 4 bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel. You access these through the inspection plate area. The problem here is the front of the torque converter is bolted to the rest of the torque converter so you have to look carefully and rotate the engine till you find the first of the bolts which passes through the flywheel to the torque converter. By the way, I say bolts but on my 56 these were studs and there were nuts on the studs holding the package together. ( Gee, that sounds kinda bad, right)3- Then you remove the rear shocks to the axle bolts,4- Then I would remove the nuts holding the springs onto the rear axle5- then remove the bar going from the rear axle to the passengers side frame rail.6- Then remove the bolts holding the torque tube to the back of the transmission.Up to this point you have no worries about the transmission falling. As a matter of fact, since there is no body on the frame you have no worries about the tranny falling because you are not going to remove the rear transmission cross member. You do have to remove the rear transmission mount bolts obviously but with the bellhousing to engine bolts still in place, there should not be any movement. For lifting purposes I might suggest renting an engine hoist with a balancing bar, and securing this to the trans with either tow straps or chains in areas where it appears the straps will not slip off while lifting the unit off the frame.7- now remove the bellhousing to engine bolts and lift the tranny so you can clear the rear trans mount area. Then use a pry bar to separate the engine and trans because I believe there will be at least one or two moounting/alignment pins requiring the trans to move backward about a 1/2 inch before it is free of the frame.8- All this assumes you have removed the transmission cooling lines if needed. On a 56 you'd have to do that but maybe not ont on a 55. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955super Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 Aargh. I called them back to get directions yesterday, when I got home from an out of town trip. But they had sold it the day before. Seriously. A Dynaflow that had been sitting there for so many months, and I missed it. Obviously I should have been clearer when I said "I'll take it" just four days before...And I was so looking forward to this adventure. The search continues. But thanks to everyone who gave me the tranny removal advice.I'm no master mechanic, but I do have a pretty solid understanding of engine and transmission operations, so I pose this question to you. This could also help anyone ense who wants to undertake this.Instead of pulling apart the engine, just to rotate the crankshaft, to get to those three bolts at the bottom of the transmission, couldn't I have just (remember, the drivetrain was intact):A. Lifted the rear end and supported the rear axleB. Put the transmission into gearC. Rotated the rear wheelsTo me it seems that would rotate the engine, and I could get those three bolts out.Am I wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 To rotate a non-stuck engine remove the lower flywheel cover and use a large screwdriver between the block and ring gear to rotate. This will also give the most leverage to unstick an engine...much better than using the bolt at the harmonic balancer.In order for a dynaflow to turn the engine you need a functioning dynaflow and need to tow or push at least 15 mph in L.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 (edited) Sorry you missed that one but as I said earlier..."Keep it simple, be on the look out for a 1955 50 (Super) or 70 (Roadmaster) series tranny, they are out there." Edited April 25, 2012 by MrEarl (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Lamar,don`t you meen 1955 ser 50 or 70,insted of ser.60-70? Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 :eek:Sheeze yes!!!! THANKS for that correction Leif . Sometimes my fingers are moving without my mind being fully engaged. and seems to be happening more frequently lately. I've edited the previous posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955super Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 Good news. I found a Dynaflow. And apparently these guys have a whole lot of them lying around, for anyone else who needs one.Home DVAPTransmission cost is $175. Cost of me to fly from LA to Phoenix: $79Cost of Rental Car to drive back to LA: $31Estimated Fuel (25 mpg x 500 mi): $75Amount I probably saved by not shipping it: $150Getting the Super Coupe back on the road again: Priceless Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 (edited) Great news and thanks for sharing the link. Before having it rebuilt, I'd suggest double checking the code numbers on both the old and just bought trannies. Wnd while checking, as Leaf has stated, please post that code number here, I'd like to add it to my list of other 53-56 tranny codes numbers. Edited May 8, 2012 by MrEarl (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 (edited) Sent you a pic earlier Lamar. Load that puppy for Leif.Number on top: 1342992-1 Edited May 7, 2012 by buick5563 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 (edited) Sent you a pic earlier Lamar. Load that puppy for Leif.Number on top: 1342992-1Thanks Mike but that's the wrong puppy. I guess I misspoke, actually what we're looking for is a letter. The letter we are looking for is for 1955, series 40 and 60 and is the code letter that is stamped on an aluminum plate low on the transmission, on left side and between the main transmission and front pump housing. Here is a picture of one on a 54 Century with the letter K. We are wanting to know what the code letter is for 1954 50,70 and for 1955 40,60. I realize I could just crawl under one of my Roadmaster with a flashlight and find out but too lazy for that. Surely someone has one pulled and can read it easier than that. Edited May 8, 2012 by MrEarl (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955super Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share Posted May 13, 2012 Good news and bad news. First, the good. I found a transmission at DVAP. Flew to Phoenix and drove it back. Bad news, they sold me the wrong transmission. Even taking them at their word that it came from a 1955 Buick (I didn't see them pull it myself, so I am not a first person witness) it's possible that whomever owned that car prior to it was junked had swapped the transmission and made some modifications for it to fit their engine.So my new goal is to find out if anyone can help me identify the year of this Dynaflow -- it's the one that looks like it's been sitting in a field for 50 years -- so that we can determine if the planetary system is interchangeable. (Mine is destroyed.) Below are photos of my correct 1955 transmission (the 1955 shop manual corroborates this), which has the following features:-The torque converter does not have a hole in it. -Front pump does not have a super-long gear.I've also included photos of the transmission case ID numbers. (By the way, someone is going to have to explain to me why everyone seems to be obsessed with these numbers.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955super Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Hmm...forum doesn't seem to like my jpg images. Getting upload errors. And they are under 2 mb each... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 They need to be less than 1 Mb I think. Leif in sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955super Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 (edited) Thank you Leif.Can anyone identify the year of the Dynaflow I bought? It's the old rusty-looking one, and the one with the hole in the torque converter.And, as you can see the torque converter and everything forward of the front pump are different.Once I find out the year, I will look to see if I can salvage the planetary gears from this mystery transmission and transplant them into my 1955.Thanks! Edited May 14, 2012 by 1955super (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 55Super, so sorry to hear that after all your effort of going after that thing it is turning out to be the wrong one. That L appears to be one of the missing code letters Leif and I have been looking for though. I'm betting your new bought tranny is a '54 50, 70 series. The only thing left would be 55 40,60 series. Looks like I'm just gonna have to crawl under one my Roadmasters and see what the number is and will do so this evening if I get home from work early enough. Perhaps someone with a a 55 40,60 series can do the same.Here is the list of known '53 thru 59 code lettersH = '53 40 ser.J = '53 50,70 ser.K or M = '54 40,60 serP = '56 AllR = '57 AllS = '58 AllT = '55 50,70 serW = '59 All Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 On my 1955 Dynaflow I have the T on two places on this one there are both L and T.Could this Dynaflow have been "restored" earlier with parts from 2 Dynaflow.On the pictures there seems to be a little bit differens between AC on the first 1953-1954 picture, and A on the second 1955. Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Missed the pictures,here they atre . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955super Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 (edited) Leif,The T transmission is the one that's been on my car all along. The one I believe to be correct for 1955, according to the shop manual photos. The L transmission is the one I just bought. I only looked in the one place for the number -- on the underside, next to the pan. So the list of know transmission cases seems to confirm that mine is a 1955 full size. And the photos of the 1954 Dynaflow (thanks again, Leif) look like the the transmission I just bought. Specifically the nipple on the torque converter, which is longer. Is it possible that L and T are both correct for 1955. Maybe a revision mid-year. I do know for certain that there was a mid-year revision regarding the whole torque ball boot assembly. Initially there was a long rubber sleeve at the rear of the transmission, but it was replaced with the different style boot with molded rubber on the inside which was supposed to (ha ha ha) stop transmission leaks.I did a search, and it looks like the planetary gears and carrier are the same between 1954 and 55, (at least that's my interpretation of this http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1954-55-Buick-Dynaflow-Planet-Carrier-unit-w-output-shaft-GM-Original-/120908934256?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c26bbec70&vxp=mtr) so I'll tell my guy to go ahead and open her up. Thanks everyone. Edited May 15, 2012 by 1955super (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 (edited) OK, just got home,. ran down to the barn, jacked up two 54 Roadmasters, crawled under each and can now confirm with utmost certainty that one code letter (there may be more mind you) for large series 1954 Dynaflow's is L Edited May 16, 2012 by MrEarl (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Lamar,now you have done it.Thanks.And now we are waiting for 1955 ser 40-60.Hope anyone will do the same as Lamar did. Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1953mack Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 (edited) A couple of items worth noting.....#1. If somebody decides to do a comprehensive list of Dynaflow code numbers and differences, keep in mind that there were some Cadillacs and Oldsmobiles in late 1953 that came with a Dynaflow transmission different than what was used on a 1953 Buick......due to the Hydramatic Transmission Plant fire in Livonia, Michigan, in late August, 1953. The 1953 BUICK PRODUCT SERVICE BULLETINS address six (6) major changes. One of the six changes noted is that the torque converter pump cover used on the Cadillacs and Oldsmobiles has a shorter hub height (nipple?) than the cover used on Buicks, similar to what is shown in the pictures noted above. The BPSB do not give any alpha-numeric code numbers for these modified transmissions.#2. In the 1954 BUICK PRODUCT SERVICE BULLETINS, there are numerous references that a "K" transmission was for the 1954 "40 Series"; a "M" transmission was for the 1954 "50-70 Series"; and, a "L" transmission was for the 1954 "60-100 Series". You might want to confirm my understanding.Al Mack"500 Miles West of Flint" Edited May 16, 2012 by 1953mack (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I have seen a Dynaflow for a 1953 Cadillac and the most different I could see was the end of the Dynafow that were modified from Dynaflow with torque tube to an "open"tube as it`s on Cadillac and Oldsmobile those years. So I don`t think there will be no problem to see the diffens for a Buick owner or "buyer". Leif in Sweden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 (edited) A couple of items worth noting.....#1. If somebody decides to do a comprehensive list of Dynaflow code numbers and differences, keep in mind that there were some Cadillacs and Oldsmobiles in late 1953 that came with a Dynaflow transmission different than what was used on a 1953 Buick......due to the Hydramatic Transmission Plant fire in Livonia, Michigan, in late August, 1953. The 1953 BUICK PRODUCT SERVICE BULLETINS address six (6) major changes. One of the six changes noted is that the torque converter pump cover used on the Cadillacs and Oldsmobiles has a shorter hub height (nipple?) than the cover used on Buicks, similar to what is shown in the pictures noted above. The BPSB do not give any alpha-numeric code numbers for these modified transmissions.#2. In the 1954 BUICK PRODUCT SERVICE BULLETINS, there are numerous references that a "K" transmission was for the 1954 "40 Series"; a "M" transmission was for the 1954 "50-70 Series"; and, a "L" transmission was for the 1954 "60-100 Series". You might want to confirm my understanding.Al Mack"500 Miles West of Flint"Thanks Al, but any chance you've got the M for 50-70 series and L for 60-100 bassakwards? ? Also are you coming to Charlotte, would like to meet you if so. Edited May 16, 2012 by MrEarl (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Thank you Leif.Can anyone identify the year of the Dynaflow I bought? It's the old rusty-looking one, and the one with the hole in the torque converter.And, as you can see the torque converter and everything forward of the front pump are different.Once I find out the year, I will look to see if I can salvage the planetary gears from this mystery transmission and transplant them into my 1955.Thanks!My 1955 parts book lists most of the planetary gears and associated parts as new for the year parts, so earlier parts probably will not work. If you can post a picture of what you need with part numbers, I will ask a local builder about interchange with other years and whether he has the parts.The part that has the number and letter codes is again year specific, not series specific. Two are listed for 55 depending on whether bushing or bearing was used on the input shaft. Also if ever rebuilt who knows what parts were mixed.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 #2. In the 1954 BUICK PRODUCT SERVICE BULLETINS, there are numerous references that a "K" transmission was for the 1954 "40 Series"; a "M" transmission was for the 1954 "50-70 Series"; and, a "L" transmission was for the 1954 "60-100 Series". You might want to confirm my understanding.Al Mack"500 Miles West of Flint"You are correct Al, but the Product Services Bulletins you were reading were printed early in the year and were wrong. They as well as some early Parts books. There was a July 22, 1954 Product Information sheet issued stating there was an error made in the Change Point Letters on 54 Dynaflows. Picture attached. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1955super Posted May 24, 2012 Author Share Posted May 24, 2012 H = '53 40 ser.J = '53 50,70 ser.K or M = '54 40,60 serP = '56 AllR = '57 AllS = '58 AllT = '55 50,70 serW = '59 AllMrEarl, can any identification be made from the casting numbers? I'm finding a lot of folks who had Dynaflow's bolted up to their 1955 vehicles, but the letter codes don't match. For example, this guy, 55 BUICK DYNAFLOW TRANSMISSION | eBay , who was very nice to go out and inspect the transmission, came back with an "S" code. So obviously, at some point, somebody replaced the front half of the transmission so that it could bolt up to his 1955 Special.There's a junkyard that I'm in contact with right now who has a Dynaflow with the letter "B" stamped in the spot next to the transmission pan (they tell me that there are no numbers, just the single letter). Ever heard of that? I don't see that letter on the list. I'm having them do the secondary identification on the strip next to the bell housing. Mechanics and tinkerers must have had to do a lot of modifications back in the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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