Torque tube separation from torque ball

[old-tank]

Jim

With that much fluid in the torque tube be sure there is none in the tubular drive shaft. I once found a quart in a shaft from a 55 that had a severe vibration. If probably gets there from the welds at the ends. I drill 1/8" holes at the lower rear 180* apart...one to drain any fluid and the other to introduce compressed air. I also drill a hole in the lower part of the torque tube, tap the hole and insert a screw as a plug...that way I can check for fluid in the torque tube. Your setup is different that my 55's so no specifics this time.

Willie

[Caballero2]

Dan, just checked the u-joint and no grease fitting at all. No access point on the rear tube. Just one sealed unit. Should I be worried about the lack of grease fitting on it? I have the early tubular steel short shaft on my vehicle.

I think that I would replace that joint with a greasible one. Then drill a hole for access. When I restored my Caballero, mine was the same as yours.

Here are photos of one on ebay with a forged short shaft.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/57-58-59-60-BUICK-DRIVESHAFT-DRIVE-PROPELLER-SHAFT-ELECTRA-NAIL-HEAD-PARTS-CAR-/320912999534?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab7e7c46e&vxp=mtr

There are more on ebay if you search "58 Buick shaft".

Dan

Edited May 25, 2012 by Caballero2 (see edit history)

[1957buickjim]

Is the grease for the splined shaft end or the u-joint end? What is the purpose of the zerk fitting, and will it upset the balance of the drive shaft. I do not have a fully capable garage to balance it, so I would rather not get into that if I don't need to. On the photo's from ebay, it looks like it greased the splined end?

Also, should I check the differential oil as well. It does not show any signs of leakage, seepage or anything. I was going to remove the check plug, but if I don't need to, then I won't. And if I do, what type of oil and how much should I put in? Thanks.

[Caballero2]

My guess is that yours still has 'whale oil' (boy does that stuff stink). If you ever have to add or change the oil, I believe there is a thread here on that. If not let us get the expertise of those on this forum.

Actually the grease fitting is for the needle bearings in the U-joint only.

The zerk (Named after its inventer) probably would not effect the ballance due to the length of that shaft and its distance from the center of rotation. Its weight would also, to some degree, be offset by the drilling and tapping of the hole.

Dan

Edited May 25, 2012 by Caballero2 (see edit history)

[VickyBlue]

This is how I found it. 3/4" heater hose between the pan upper "arm" and the dipstick. I left it at the same length for picture purposes. What is the correct way to do this? In other words, at what point in the "arm" does the end of the dipstick stop? What is the proper level of transmission fluid inside the pan?

Thanks:)

Edited May 26, 2012 by VickyBlue (see edit history)

[Leif Holmberg]

The upper and lower tubes should go against each other or only 1/8" between them.The hose just needs to be 1 1/2"-2" long in that case..

But be sure the engine run when check the oil level.

Leif in Sweden.

Edited May 26, 2012 by Leif Holmberg (see edit history)

[VickyBlue]

Car is on the ground again. Tranny is filled, thanks Leif... Manual says rear end takes 6 pints (3 quarts) of rear end fluid, I was able to barely squeeze one. I did make sure it was empty when I had the torque tube out, what am I missing?

[Joseph P. Indusi]

The refill for a 1953 Buick is 4 pints, for a 54-55, 4 and 1/2 and for 56 to 58, 6 pints. Generally the fill plug on the rear cover should not be at the bottom but around the 4 or 5 o"clock position. The lubricant should just reach the midpoint of the axle shaft.

Joe, BCA 33493

[VickyBlue]

I assume the axle is original to the car, as everything else is... Someone has been there before too, (as with everything else I touch) as there was permatex around the cover. There is a 40 stamped both on top and bottom of the case. The way the car sits, I was able to squeeze one quart and I had to force the last few drops. In my 63 Benz, you had to be very careful as to not overfill the rear end, as fluid was going to go into the axles and if the car was not level, you could put 2 gallons and it would take it. Would it be OK if I raised the rear while keeping the front wheels on the ground end and put some more that way? When I had the rear end out I let it sit on the pumpkin overnight and it completely drained... there was nothing left to drain. Is there fluid into the axles? Would driving it splash the fluid into the axles, that way it can take more? I know it has a quart but not 3 as the manual says...

For those sharp eyes, I had to cut the exhaust as the bend wasn't high enough to cleat the rear end... my buddy has my welder, so this is temporary, once all done, she is going in for a 2.5" full system...

Edited May 29, 2012 by VickyBlue (see edit history)

[avgwarhawk]

Is the fluid up to that fill bolt? If so then the rear is full. Physically no more fluid can go in without draining out as you attempt to get the drain bolt screwed in. You said it has a quart pumped inside. One quart is four pints.

[VickyBlue]

I grew up overseas so I am metric. I googled how many pints in a quart and gave me 2 US pints... But yes fluid is up to the bolt.

[avgwarhawk]

You are correct. Two pints is one quart. My measuring is off!

[buick5563]

Can a 56 guy confirm the clocking of the differential cover? I can't answer this because it looks entirely different than a 55.

[1957buickjim]

Mike, I think it is the same as the 57. There is no cover, it is a welded, closed system except for the check plug. It makes it very difficult to get to the gears and such without a hoist, since you have to take the gears out through the front of the diff.

[Leif Holmberg]

This is how it looks.1955 contra 1956.

Leif in Sweden

[Joseph P. Indusi]

OK, that settles it. The 56 has the back cover welded in place or integral with the rear end assembly meaning that the fill plug is fixed. When the lubricant reaches the fill plug level it is full.

I know on the earlier models you could replace the rear cover in the wrong position and either under-fill or over-fill the differental. The word from a rear end expert is to bring the lubricant to just about the center of the axle but no higher.

Joe, BCA 33493

[VickyBlue]

Great! Now off to the front end:)

[DevsRevs]

I just purchased a manual 3 speed on the column 1949 Buick Super 50 and I need to do this Torque Tube seal replacement. I need to know what seal kit to purchase, seems like everything I've read is about the Dynaflow trans. Is the Torque Tube seal kit the same as on the Chevy Muncie 3 sp? Any help would be graciously accepted!

Edited September 13, 2018 by DevsRevs (see edit history)