Guest cadaber Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) Can someone tell me how to get the rear brake drum removed? I think I have to remove the key that is wedged in behind the axel washer, however, I am not sure how to do that. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance,MarkI forgot to mention, you cant get a puller on the back of the drum due to it being recessed into the backing plate. Edited October 24, 2011 by cadaber (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpage Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I believe those drums are mounted on a tapered shaft like the '36's and the key drives the drum. You'll need a puller that will mount to the wheel bolts and center on the axle. With any luck the drum will pull off. They can be a son-of-a gun! You may try a little heat while pulling , just don't catch the grease on fire! Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mark1934* Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 you need a drummer puller. I bought one (from the 50's) for $20. Works awesome. I'll send you a picture tonight. It simple mounts to the outside of the drum with 3 of the bolts that held on the tire. Then you twist (and hit with a hammer) the middle thing that pulls the drum off. The key you are talking about will come off with it. It is just in there to turn the drum/wheel when the axle turns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 From my page on 1933 Plymouth Rear Axle Oil Seal Repair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mark1934* Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Great picture. That is exactly the tool I own as well. They are awesome. You should find one; you will use it often. Or borrow one for now.Another awesome tool for doing brakes on the early Mopars is the AMMCO Model 1750 for centering your brake shoes. A must, I found out this year. Pricey, but try to find one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cadaber Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 wow...thank you!!! Another question, where on God's green earth do I find one of those? hahaThanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) wow...thank you!!! Another question, where on God's green earth do I find one of those? hahaThanks againRegarding the drum puller: A good auto supply store can probably order that for you.Regarding the AMMCO shoe alignment tool (or the equivalent Miller tool referenced in the factory service manuals): If you are lucky some old local automotive repair shop might be clearing out seldom used tools (these were needed on Ford as well as Mopar vehicles in the 30s and 40s). If you are not lucky, you'll probably end up spending several hundred dollars on ePay.It is possible to adjust the shoes without the tool but it takes a long time and getting good results can require a lot more time than a typical repair shop would be willing to spend. Thus the commercial tools.If you really want to do the brakes correctly, you'll also want to find a brake shoe grinder to make sure the linings match the exact diameter of the drum.p.s. There are people who've made up adjusting tools using stuff as simple as threaded rod and wooden blocks. They claim they work okay. I happen to have an AAMCO tool so I haven't tried improvising too much. Edited October 24, 2011 by ply33 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1936 D2 Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) How desperate are you? ...Universal Wheel Hub Puller Rear Brake Drum Remover Tool | eBayOR:Springfield Wheel Puller Professional 3-arm Hub Puller - JCWhitneyOR:Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and moreAND:eBay - Ammco 1750 Brake Gage for Vintage Lockheed Brakes Edited October 24, 2011 by 1936 D2 update (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knobless Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 can you put some pictures of the rear venting windows on here? my 34 dr is missing the frames that hold the glass and I am thinking of making them, as I have been looking for quite some time and can not find a set, thanks also if anyone knows of a set please let me know thanks again.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 This guy made me a puller (he is a retired machinist) that was reasonably priced and very beefy. gmcmurtry@embarqmail.com I had tried a puller that looked like ply33's photo and it did not work; the arms distorted enough that they slipped off the donut (this was on a 25 drum). The tapers can really be stuck on there. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cadaber Posted November 20, 2011 Share Posted November 20, 2011 Knobless...I'll see what I have here that I can post. I haven't messed with the rear windows as of yet, so I may have to go take some clear pictures.MikeC5...thanks for the info, I would hate to get one thats suffers in quality. Cheers,Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Hi Knobless,I too had the same problem with the rear 1/4 vent windows as mine were in pieces in a plastic bag. I took them to a guy here in Melbourne who had made new ones by hand. He also made my windscreen frame too ( he even made the windscreen frame on a third reich Mercedes Staff car ). Unfortunately he's passed away but the work he did was exceptional to a point where my windscreen after 9 years fit straight in the car with no adjustment necessary. I can post some shots of mine tonight when I get home. He made them from brass, had them plated and then put the weather seal in them and templated glass. I should have got hime to make the front 1/4 vent windows too but at that stage I ran out of money.CheersIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Hi Knobless,Heres the pics of the rear 1/4 vent windows..........nice !!!Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Oh yeah, I forgot,If you need measurements I'd be happy to do that too.CheersIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knobless Posted November 24, 2011 Share Posted November 24, 2011 Yes.Ian measurements would be great, also I was not sure of the seams now I see top and bottom, great pics and the frame is in great shape, this is original or you had it made?thanks again, also if you need more pics from my 34, on any areas let me know thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Hi,The frames are all new and handmade. Brass channel, plated and templated glass. From memory they cost me approx $350 for both. Pitty the guy died who did them as he did do exceptional work.I'll get measurements and post them over the weekend.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Oh yeah, Forgot to mention.I've uploaded every photo I have to photobucket. Still trying how to work it out but they are there under my name at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1936 D2 Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 (edited) Ian - Great set of photos on your project! I took note of some interesting shots you have that maybe should be set-up for a new thread discussion. There are three items in particular:1) The interior of the right rear "C" pillar where there are factory chalk markings that mention the original color and the fact that your car was built for right hand drive. (Photos #130 and #131 of 177).2) Exterior firewall stamped numbers. (Photos #122 and #123 of 177). What are these for? Any FACTUAL info out there?3) LF (in your case) frame number. (Which I believe should be the same as the original engine number?) (Photos #136, #138 and #139 of 177).These things have had limited information discussed in any detail on this forum and these are some items that I think people should be looking for during their restorations and to make sure this info is documented both for their followup info during restoration and for any issues that may arise when titling and/or registration paperwork is being considered. If they are not aware of these things they can be easily over looked.You have some great photos here to use as a jumping off point for these three topics!"cadaber" - Sorry for jumping your thread here. I know that all of this info discussed in this thread will be important for anyone working a full restoration on a Chrysler Motors product from the mid thirties and on for quite a few model years. Hope Ian can take the ball and run with it on a few new threads. Edited November 25, 2011 by 1936 D2 bolding (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankngin Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Hi there, Did you ever get the drum off?Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted November 27, 2011 Share Posted November 27, 2011 HI Guys,Knobless - Could you send me your mailing address to iangreenlaw@netspace.net.au I've done a scale template of the rear 1/4 vent windows with measurements and I need to mail it to you as too big to scan.1936D2 - Excellent idea. I know there was some discussion a little while ago about the numbers on the firewall but mine does seem to be a bit different. As I now have all the original numbers I'll start a post to see what everyone else has. As for the other two I'll start separate ones for those as well.CheersIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cadaber Posted December 16, 2011 Share Posted December 16, 2011 All,The drum puller that is shown in the post from "ply33" was the exact type I ordered. It worked like a champ! Thanks to everyone for the input and insight. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest cadaber Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Follow up question...there is s a plate on the drum that the wheel studs slide into. Can the drum itself and the plate be separated? Or are they welded together? I have had them sand blasted and it looks like there is a seem, but I am not sure and dont want to break anything.Thanks,Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Hi Mark,Could you post a pic so I can see if its the same as mine ?RegardsIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vettemanz51 Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 New to this forum. Just wanted to say that I got a hold of a puller exactly like this on and though it took a while I got both of them off. I am looking forward to getting my dodge on the road. Can some one tell me where to find the paint code so I can make this car as orignal as possible. Also need to know where I can get the linning for the hood and the running boards covers. Thanks so much for any info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mark1934* Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 New to this forum. Just wanted to say that I got a hold of a puller exactly like this on and though it took a while I got both of them off. I am looking forward to getting my dodge on the road. Can some one tell me where to find the paint code so I can make this car as orignal as possible. Also need to know where I can get the linning for the hood and the running boards covers. Thanks so much for any info.In 2011 I had my 1934 Dodge tuning boards done by HUNLEY ACUFF . He has the correct 1934 Dodge materials. Absolutely perfect. 1423 Wilson Road, Rossville, Georgia, USA. 1-706-866-4875.cost was $1000 plus $75 to sandblast plus $50 return. I took off old rubber using propane torch behind running board to cause rubber to separate and simply peal off with chisel.old fellow, needs 3 weeks or so. I have his ad if you want it.I can post picture of mine if you want. Everyone comments how perfect my running boards are. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mark1934* Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 Then you buy the trim for the boards from L & L antique Auto Trim 403 spruce, PO Box 177, Pierce City, MO 65723. 417-476-2871part number 187 $300Perfect fit. Aluminum bead.This site will not let me post pictures from my I pad or I phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mark1934* Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 New to this forum. Just wanted to say that I got a hold of a puller exactly like this on and though it took a while I got both of them off. I am looking forward to getting my dodge on the road. Can some one tell me where to find the paint code so I can make this car as orignal as possible. Also need to know where I can get the linning for the hood and the running boards covers. Thanks so much for any info.Give me your email and I will email you photos. mmcclenathan@heylroyster.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 .... Can some one tell me where to find the paint code so I can make this car as orignal as possible....Paint code is not on the car... You can send the serial number (front right (passenger) side door hinge post) to the Chrysler Historical Collection along with some money and they can send you a copy of the "build card". That card will have your paint and trim (upholstery) code, any factory options, dealer the car was shipped to, etc. There are a number of sites and sources for matching paint once you find what the code is. By the way, I'm not into judging, but I believe all of the major clubs only worry about the paint being one that was available for your car. It doesn't have to be the actual paint it was shipped with. But I can understand why you might want to return the car to the way it was originally shipped from the factory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 New to this forum. Just wanted to say that I got a hold of a puller exactly like this on and though it took a while I got both of them off. I am looking forward to getting my dodge on the road. Can some one tell me where to find the paint code so I can make this car as orignal as possible. Also need to know where I can get the linning for the hood and the running boards covers. Thanks so much for any info.I would say you are going to have to try and get your original build card for the paint code although sometimes it will be marked on the inside of the cab somewhere behind the interior, I am not familiar enough with 34 too say where though for certain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest toybox99615 Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 I was noticing not a single poster made reference to the most important step of protecting the end of the axle while using the drum puller on this type of rear brake drum. Snap-on use to have a tool that looked like an extra long nut for protecting the axle. You installed the tool on the axle and it protected the axle from becoming flared as the drum puller could easily damage the axle. I still have one some place as I use it occasional. I probably could post a picture is there is any interest in seeing it.Note: the same type of rear drum design were used on a few other makes of cars and truck during the 1930 to 1956 era. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Hi Vettemanz51,Attached are a few pics of the locations of the colour your car was painted. This was marked to show what colour it was to be painted, Left or Right hand drive, and the Model of the Car.In my case, my 34's colour is Empire Maroon, Right Hand Drive and it is a DR Model.I have also attached a list of colour combinations that was available for the 34's.Hope this helpsIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manuel Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 I would love to see a pic Toybox.ThanksManuel in Oz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest vettemanz51 Posted January 21, 2013 Share Posted January 21, 2013 Hey thanks very much for this info. I did find a color similar to this inside the trunk. When I get home from Bible study tonight I will check it out. Anything I can help you with let me know. Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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