Landman Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 Could you mount the fire extinguisher on the passenger side kick panel, Pat? Maybe using the Velcro system, as well.Perhaps. Those are very narrow footwells. I can jut stand it there to see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 I took the opportunity to check the valve clearances while the valve cover was off. They look OK. A sight drag on the feeler gauge. However it still has the hesitation/stumble when you apply some throttle. Upon revving it up to investigate I saw some tiny orange sparks coming out from under the manifolds. I shut it down and waited for my heart rate to get below 300. I started it again and felt underneath. Looks like leaks on the underside of each exhaust manifold runner. I'm sure I lined the flanges before I bolted the two manifolds together. I might have even waited until they were tight on the engine before tightening them up. Would doubling up on the gaskets help something like this? :mad:I reinstalled the hood corner that had fallen off and glued a split piece of tubing to the flange at the rear of the hood which rests on the cowl vent when the hood is laid flat.I also found the perfect article for the glove box.:cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dei Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 That's a great period accessory for the car.It would be great if you could get the highway sign shown in the map. I've seen Kings Highway signs for sale in Barrie but can't remember which particular ones now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted January 24, 2014 Author Share Posted January 24, 2014 Received the exhaust gasket set. Will put these on before the Spring.Bit the bullet and injected windshield sealer under the windshield and rear window rubbers creating the mess of the century in the process.Luckily, this stuff cleans up nicely with Varsol and a thousand paper towels. There still is a bit of squeeze-out here and there but I was sick of the smell this afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Always seems like there is something that has to be done. Looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 Par, if you sealed those windows, it means that yu intend to go out with the car when it's raining?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 Par, if you sealed those windows, it means that yu intend to go out with the car when it's raining?!Not on purpose Roger. I would like to go on some tours eventually and there is no guarantee that it won't rain. Same for car shows. I don't spend all the time with my car, so if it starts to rain I may not be there to put on the special cover I had made. So it is more of a precaution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 25, 2014 Share Posted January 25, 2014 You know, it was more a joke than something else. You can go out in the morning and be surprised by a thunderstorm. Can happens all the time. I don't like to drive in the rain with my older vehicles (with the recent one either) and I sealed the windows too! The last time I drove under heavy rain was with the '56 de Ville, some years ago: I had rented a stand at the first US meet from the season; it was raining the whole day. I was glad to have a leak free car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Pat , I've used that same brand sealer several times. Yes, it's messy.......but it does a great job. I got the pump they offer which has several different tips for getting the sealer under the rubber gasket -- that may have reduced the mess somewhat but in no way eliminated it. Your cover is a great idea, nicely done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 I had woodgrained the rear window garnish from my sedan parts car. When the upholsterer called one day to bring it over, it was way too narrow. So we had installed it with a section of hidem between the molding and the glass making it look like a thick rubber. I now have a proper coupe molding albeit from a 33. The next job is to strip it and woodgrain it as well. Then I'll be able to install that neat little blind which goes in the rear window. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Landman,Is the original trim piece steel? How do you make it look like wood? Just wondering what your process was. :confused: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys77 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 When I locate the proper 1934 Master Coupe Rear Window Molding - we'll have to engineer a swap there, Pat!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) Willys77, you have a deal! Edited February 5, 2014 by Landman (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 (edited) Landman,Is the original trim piece steel? How do you make it look like wood? Just wondering what your process was. :confused:Martin, I bought a kit from this company. http://www.woodgraining.com/ . With a bit of practise I got some reasonable results. Edited February 5, 2014 by Landman (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Stripped the garnish molding today. Started out in the blasting cabinet. It is awkward because of its length and the compressor is too small. The grinder mounted wire wheel worked well around the edges. The drill mounted black wheel worked very well on the flat surfaces.Gave it a good wash with metal prep. That leaves it with a dull finish. Stinks too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Very interesting. Thanks for the info. Project is looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys77 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hi Pat - should have asked earlier - being that you found a 1933 Coupe rear Garnish Molding; was there any other Window Moldings or other parts available? I need the little round covers for the '33 Moldings & any other wood brackets & braces etc. that I can find. Thanks again - keep up the stellar work! (when does the 1/12 scale model '34 Master Coupe work start?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 Hi Pat - should have asked earlier - being that you found a 1933 Coupe rear Garnish Molding; was there any other Window Moldings or other parts available? I need the little round covers for the '33 Moldings & any other wood brackets & braces etc. that I can find. Thanks again - keep up the stellar work! (when does the 1/12 scale model '34 Master Coupe work start?).I got it from Joe Iaccino in Arizona. I'll PM you his email. He has a 33 coupe.As far as the model, I have two avenues to follow. One is to modify the Danbury Mint 1/24 Chevrolet roadster with the roof of an AMT '34 Ford kit. The other is to use the 1/20 Hubley/Gabriel 1932 Chevy 5 window metal kit and fabricarte whatever I need to turn it into a '34. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willys77 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Now that you've ordered those two modeling books - you can do a "Roger" on that 1934 Chevy Master!!! Scratch build it - bigger is better & easier, isn't it??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Welded the hole shut at the top of the molding. It isn't used on a '34. Slathered some filler over the area, sanded it down and gave it the base coat of Mahogany. Next comes printing the grain.I also have the makings of the model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Made some support boards to hold the molding in a vertical position while I do the transfer of the grain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 5, 2014 Author Share Posted March 5, 2014 Tackled the woodgraining today. The first two photos show the setup.These two show the blending paper on top of a first pass with the roller and one started ON the paper.These two show the joint before and after blending. Sorry for the poor photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts_DG8 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Pat,That looks like it turned out great. So am I understanding it correctly that the blending paper for the most part helps match the grains and provide a starting and ending point for the woodgraining pattern? If I recall corrently the roller has the wood pattern, does the blending paper also have a wood pattern? At least one currious mind would sure like to know. Scott... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I just found the thread. Great looking car, and nice, nice, work you've done on it. I'm interested in the woodgraining, as I have a '41 McLaughlin Buick that I still have to finish the interior on, and the woodgraining all needs to be done. So, I take it that you found the Grain-It kit was worth it, and worked well? I found them a while back but wasn't sure, as the cost of the kit isn't cheap, but didn't know how well it would work, as I'd never seen anyone's car done with their system. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Pat,That looks like it turned out great. So am I understanding it correctly that the blending paper for the most part helps match the grains and provide a starting and ending point for the woodgraining pattern? If I recall corrently the roller has the wood pattern, does the blending paper also have a wood pattern? At least one currious mind would sure like to know. Scott...Scott, the blending paper is just a strip of sandpaper that you put grit down on your fresh ink. Oddly enough it doesn't affect it.Basically, you pick up the pattern from the inked-up plate with the roller being careful not to overlap. I marked my roller with a tape. Then you start rolling at the tape and stop just before it comes back to avoid overlaps in pattern. You then put your paper down near the end of your pass with small magnets to hold it there. Then you wipe off the ink even with the paper. You start your next pass ON the paper and again stop before it overlaps, working your way around the molding. The actual blending is done with a brush or a little pointed stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 I just found the thread. Great looking car, and nice, nice, work you've done on it. I'm interested in the woodgraining, as I have a '41 McLaughlin Buick that I still have to finish the interior on, and the woodgraining all needs to be done. So, I take it that you found the Grain-It kit was worth it, and worked well? I found them a while back but wasn't sure, as the cost of the kit isn't cheap, but didn't know how well it would work, as I'd never seen anyone's car done with their system. KeithHi Keith. Thanks for the kind words. I definitely think the Grainit kit is worth it. It isn't automatic though. You have to practice. However with practice and some care you can get some reasonable results. For the real pro stuff, you send it to them. Go on their website, there's all kinds of photos of results.There is a '40 Buick in the photo section.http://www.woodgraining.com/Here's one of the practice shots and the finished product. As you can tell, I was fighting with the overlap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Is the roller soft, so that it will conform to shape of the mouldings?Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts_DG8 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Pat,Thanks for the additional explanation, I'm thinking I followed along. I guess that to really understand it's something that one would just have to try it firsthand and learn thru practice. What I probably really need to do is check out the wood graining site some more and decide what my own approach will be. Scott... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I guess that to really understand it's something that one would just have to try it firsthand and learn thru practice.Scott, its proabably that way. Despite the good explanation from Pat, I'm still confused! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Is the roller soft, so that it will conform to shape of the mouldings?KeithYes it is Keith . It is some sort of gel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) Scott, its proabably that way. Despite the good explanation from Pat, I'm still confused!Perhaps this will help Roger.http://www.woodgraining.com/woodgraining.htmlGo to the hands on at Hershey video. Edited March 6, 2014 by Landman (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Thanks for the link Pat! Now, I understand better. It seems that you don't have to wear your nicest clothing to do that! Before you are doing the woodgraining, you have to paint the moulding or whatever part you intend to finish. Am I right?Then, you let dry the gel or do you have to spray a clear coat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts_DG8 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Roger,I hate to admit it but was trying to be tackful in my comment as I too didn't quite fully follow along to a complete understanding.Pat,I'd already had gone out to the site and poked around a bit again this morning. And don't get me wrong, I was not expecting you to be the professional teacher and attempting to answer all wood graining questions after tackling the task yourself for the first time (to some pretty great success in my opinion). My biggest challenge is that my dash is welded in place hence it can not be removed for this process which introduces more challenges. Scott... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Actually they have some pretty good step by step instructions. The only step that is unclear is the application of the tie-down coat which stabilizes your ink until you put the toner on. It liiks like you apply it right away in the instructions but I got caught twice putting it on either too heavy or too early. It erases the pattern.Scott, that would be a challenge alright. You'd have to make sure everything clears the roller before you start.And yes Roger, there is a base coat, then the pattern using the roller, then the tie down coat, then the toner (which gives it a nice warm hue), another tie down coat, then the clear. Check posting 1020, above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 Pat; Thanks for the additional info. I guess I'll have to "bite the bullet" and buy the materials! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 Pat; Thanks for the additional info. I guess I'll have to "bite the bullet" and buy the materials! KeithTalk to Evan at Grainit, he is very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share Posted March 8, 2014 Today I applied the toner. It is a dark transparent wash which brings out the grain and gives it a nice warm tone. Before is on the left, after on the right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Looking good Pat. Nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts_DG8 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Pat,Looks to me like it turned out great. Is the pattern that you went with just the straight grain that they offer? I spent some time watching the videos on their site and pretty much fully understand the process of getting the grain to transfer now and the use of different size rollers. I also looked thru their photos and saw a Chrysler Airflow dash that was done in the car as it would have been welded in like my Dodge. There weren't but a couple pictures of the Airflow but I got the feeling that it was done by a pro. As far as doing it myself I thinking I could do all the window trim without any problems, it's the dash that will take some effort. I'm happy that you took the time to post/document your efforts and experience while doing this. Scott... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Pat,Looks to me like it turned out great. Is the pattern that you went with just the straight grain that they offer? I spent some time watching the videos on their site and pretty much fully understand the process of getting the grain to transfer now and the use of different size rollers. I also looked thru their photos and saw a Chrysler Airflow dash that was done in the car as it would have been welded in like my Dodge. There weren't but a couple pictures of the Airflow but I got the feeling that it was done by a pro. As far as doing it myself I thinking I could do all the window trim without any problems, it's the dash that will take some effort. I'm happy that you took the time to post/document your efforts and experience while doing this. Scott...I think so Scott. They made me a plate with both patterns - Straight Grain and Butt Walnut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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