Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models

[Roger Zimmermann]

Don, thanks for your comments! Hopefuly, your cold is now gone. Good luck with your Alfa engine!

Ah! The scale models...Recently, I bought a 1:24 1932 Cadillac V-16 dual cowl phaeton. I did know that the back is irrelevant, but I had problems with the front. Even if some details are skipped, some dimensions are rather accurate. And, having front fenders in 3 dimensions will facilitate the day I will begin them. In between, I did some progress on the hood:

 

When I began the hood’s sides with the ventilation doors, I expected that that idea would come to a good end. I got some thinking how to do the anchor point for the spring and, when I’m unsure about something, I’m delaying and delaying (somebody in your country is champion for that) until I’m packing the thing and do it. Fortunately, it went rather well. Then, I soldered the hinge I had with the various holes to a door and inserted the assembly, together with the female hinge. I shortened a bit the spring I did before and tried…I had to do a deeper notch at the frame because it interfered with the spring’s end.

The function is as I expected; the sole critic I could do is that the aperture could be more generous. For that I should redo all 14 male hinges; as the overheating from the model is questionable, I will let the things like they are.

Now, I can continue with the 13 other ventilation doors …

[Pat Hollingsworth]

Let me understand something. The doors on the original cars just opened and closed with a spring alone, right? The delicate 'fins' on the doors don't operate a latch or something, but serve as classy handles to pull on. Is that correct?

I was wondering about those large, flat surfaces warping, Roger. I guess you do too, and you have taken measures to avoid that if possible, rather than repair- sensible. Like I believe you always are. Thanks, as always.

[Roger Zimmermann]

That's correct. They look good, and are used to open each door individually. So, you can have only half open or the number you feel is needed. To close them, just push on the door. There is no axle, the doors are staying in place just with the push of the spring. If a spring should break, you would have probably to search for another one!

When I did the holes on that flat pieces, everything was under control. When I soft soldered the flanges, it was a nightmare! I could correct more or less the diformations; some bondo will be needed!

So you can see that I have sometimes unexpected difficulties...like most humans!

[Gunsmoke]

The shutters/vents are activated similar to the cowl vents for my 1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster, except for mine, a pull handle on the inside opens them and closes them. The uniquely shaped spring (similar to Rogers spring) is neatly engineered as shown to both hold them open and also hold them closed. 

[Randiego]

Gunsmoke,

 

In my opinion, for the mid to lower ranged automobile back in the early thirrties, Chrysler engineering was at the top of the heap.  Duesenberg, Bugatti and Mercedez, Isotta, Hispano Suisa, and all the other "Hi End" manufacturers followed their own drum beat, only "borrowing" ideas that came along that they could integrate into their automobile designs, but with their "thumbprint" on those elements.  

 

Walter Chrysler's design studios/labs were cutting edge.  Every year, Ford, GM, Studebaker and other manufacturers, would purchase the latest Chrysler product, take it to their studios, dissasemble them to see what Chrysler did that year and apply their new designs to their products.

 

Through the eighties, Chrysler engineering was always ahead of the curve.  Cadillac could have used their hood ventilation port design's, integrating them into their models. I am sure that a follower of this thread will enlighten us to who was the first to use the hood ventilators/Iouvers in the 20's early 30's as I am not an automotive historian. 

 

Engineering a system to get rid of the heat in the engine compartment was always a needed element of the engine bay.  Even though the engines were not turning  as many revolutions as modern engines, they still produced a lot of heat from those large radiators.  Even the splash shields covering the lower engine bay to keep the road dirt from flying up into the engine compartment were "louvered' to allow water AND air to flow out.

 

Oh to have been a fly on the wall of the design studios back in the early thirties.  Books and publications give us insight but they only cover a fraction of what life and methods were like  back then. 

 

Today, it is all computers and everything can be tracked and documented.  A Slide Rule, French Curve and other "tools" of the designers are all replaced with CAD systems.  And in the near future, will  A I replace the designers?  Give me the old days when life was simpler. 

 

[Roger Zimmermann]

Gunsmoke, thanks for your pictures.

Randy, you are forgotting something important: the above vent doors are located into the cowl. Easy to do a system to open/close them with a single lever.

Imagine now the hood which is a movable element only attached to the cowl with a double hinge...How will you actuate the vent doors with this configuration?

I don't know well the Chrysler products, especially from this period, but I doubt that this company could engineer a system to move the vent doors at the hood with a lever located into the car!

[Gunsmoke]

I agree Roger, the hood doors as you say must be opened from outside by some sort of handle (although I understood some makes may have tried to use one long rod and some linkage mechanism to open all of them at once), but I was making the observation that a properly designed "spring steel" spring like the one shown can serve the dual purpose of holding them open and holding them closed. I've seen these vents in use 90+ years later and the spring mechanism still working perfectly. I think the 1930 era LaSalle had a spring on each hinge that only held them open, and a series of chrome latching buttons on the hood to hold them closed.

[Roger Zimmermann]

As the cooling system was maybe not too efficient, the option to open or close the vents was probably accepted by the customers. A single lever to open or close the vents would add the weight of the hood; was that a concern?

As I always write, I don't know well cars from that time; I like to see them in pictures, but I would never own one. 

However, I like them as scale models and, as I had to study the details from that V-16 frame, the solutions used during that time are very interesting.

[Roger Zimmermann]

During our stay at the vacation house, I took two pieces of wood to remove the excess material, giving that way a rough shape of the finished pattern.

 

For that model, the body construction will differ to what I did before. Here, the first element to be ready will be the cowl, then the radiator surround. The exact length of the hood will be dictated by those two elements and will certainly differs compared to the original dimension.

 

The wood block on the frame has to be trimmed till I can shape the brass around it; the rough nose is in the background. As the hood’s sides are flat, only the top and the small end will be used to shape the brass.

[Pat Hollingsworth]

Whenever I see your model's engine or a photo of one of the real ones, I think how tempting it would be to remove the hood and share that wonderful engine with all its porcelain and other interesting features. How'd it look pulling up to the valet parking at the country club lacking a hood? 

Roger, even your bucks for shaping the cowl show your skills. So delightful to see all of these things. Thank you so much.

[Mr. Don]

Wait a minute! Thats not wine crate wood! It looks like Pearwood. Did you go out and chop down a tree?

[Mr. Don]

-and,

I truly do love to see your work progress.

[Roger Zimmermann]

For once, no wood from a wine crate! I ordered some wood from a woodwork, it's beech. The same kind of wood I used for the Mark II...

[Roger Zimmermann]

It’s always more interesting to begin something new than to continue and finish an existing project…The hood vertical panels were put on hold while I was playing with the wood.

Now, I had to finish this “project” by soldering the hinges to the doors and inside the hood. Not a difficult job, however requiring some attention to have the proper gap at the doors as once soldered, an adjustment is rather problematic.

The most annoying task was to make the tiny springs which allow the doors to stay closed or open. I did a jig to bend the spring steel at the right place, but it was a flop. I used the proven method with some tweezers which gave 14 more or less different springs!

Anyway, the ventilations doors are built as I intended.

[Laughing Coyote]

WoW!!! Outstanding as always.

[Mr. Don]

The only thing more frustrating than making a spring is making a small spring!

The only thing more frustrating than making a small spring, is making a lot of them!

[Mr. Don]

Once again, your hand manipulation of steel is second only to Superman!

[Mr. Don]

I still marvel at the springs you made for your Continental windsheild wipers!

 

YBFLB, Don

[Roger Zimmermann]

To continue with the hood, two elements are missing: the firewall and the radiator surround. Obviously, the first element which will lead the body construction is the firewall. On this car, it was mainly made with steel and some metallic structure. As a convertible, the firewall/cowl must be as rigid as possible; the outer panels will contribute to that goal.

On the short brass sill, there is a “pocket”; the sill will be made with wood and will start into that pocket till the end of the car. I will use soft wood as on the model as the sill will have almost no real function.

[Bradc75R]

Absolutely amazing work!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The cowl was giving me a hard time. With the dimensions provided by Paul and Johan, I had the idea that it would be an easy job, but it was not: I expected that the sides from the cowl would be parallel from the top to the bottom, but it was not. It was in fact grotesque until I realized that the cowl front end plate was too narrow at the top, my fault. When this was corrected, the sides were still not parallel, but the twisting was acceptable. Is that so in the reality? I just don’t know and don’t care too much…

I did first the “nose” which is under the hood and did the mistake to silver solder it to the front plate, creating some distortion. Fortunately, as there is a cover on the cowl on those vehicles, this mishap will not be seen.

Then I did the cowl sides, soft soldered on the nose.

On the real cars, there is a molding pressed into the sheet metal; on that molding, a chromed channel is attached by nuts from under the vehicle. I could not do that pressed molding; I had to find another way to replicate this chromed part: there is a step between the cowl and the nose on which the hood is resting on a lacing; I did slots into the step and a thick brass element was shaped to be located into the slots. The original part is made in one piece; due to the different installation, I had to do it in two pieces. A lip resting on the cowl will be added later when the shape is definitive.

The bottom and the rear of the cowl is to be trimmed. From the side, the bottom of the body is making an elegant curve, but for my construction it’s a difficulty more as it’s hard to make the final shape without the remaining of the floor/sills. The door’s post will be added at the rear of the cowl, as well as the windshield support.

[Paulie9fingers]

Roger it looks amazing

[Roger Zimmermann]

By looking at pictures, the body is so simple looking! However, the realization is more difficult due to the lack of good dimensions. Everything must be compared/evaluated with what I have, pictures are lying, drawing are approximate, and so on…The end result will be far from a genuine replica; it will be more “looking like” a 1932 convertible coupe!

Interesting fact: the best pictures for the convertible’s profile is in a LaSalle book! The body style I’m trying to reproduce was also used on the LaSalle models with some very minor differences. The proof? That cowl’s picture, provided by Johan, was used on the V-8, V-12 and V-16 models as Job 168, as well as on the Al-Weather Phaetons with the same frame/engine choice as Job 273 and on LaSalle models as Job 668. This method of sharing parts was obviously a cost’s reduction during those years with low production. The main bodies were also used for the year 1933 with some differences at the fenders and front grille.

[Pat Hollingsworth]

Oh, Roger! I am trembling with concern for the soldering puzzles that will need to be resolved. And, I'm not even the clever man that will be trying to do it. Forge on, our intrepid master, we are breathless with anticipation of the journey ahead. Or, in simpler terms- Attaboy!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Ah! Pat! The soldering issues will be mastered (at leat I hope!) but the dimension issue will remain. On the other side, when I'm looking at the 1:24 body from the Monogram model I bought to have some help, it's also full of imprecisions, but the body is looking good! So, what the heck, I'm continuing as well as I can; the car will not look like a Ford T!

[neil morse]

Hi Roger:

 

I keep thinking of this classic photo by James van der Zee as I watch your progress here.  I have a poster of this photo on my wall.

 

[Pat Hollingsworth]

Man, those fur coats are going to be hard to model. Good thing we have Roger on the job, he can figure a way. Oh, that's a nice photo, too!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Neil, thanks for the picture! The car is a 1930 or 31 model and, no, I will not replicate the persons nor their coats!

 

One step forward, 5 steps back…Even if I have some experience with brass, errors are always possible.

The first error was that the front plate for the cowl was too narrow at the top. I attempted to correct this error when silver soldering the first elements to that plate, but, obviously, I did some more with the inclination, and so on. Finally, the assembly was too low on one side and the whole was crooked.

What to do? Begin from point zero? I imagined that I could unsolder the latest additions but this is not without risk. Finally, the first element had to go away.

After using a hammer, I could correct more or less the shape of the cowl. I will do a new front plate and adjust it to the remaining bit of the old one and soft solder it to the assembly. When no more soldering will have to be done, I will use some filler to hide the imperfections.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The cowl is now repaired by inserting a bit of brass. At the same time, I soft soldered the channel catching the rain from the ventilation aperture on top of the shroud. There is a rubber hose attached to that channel, evacuating the water outside of the car. No, I will not add the water hose…

[Roger Zimmermann]

Continuation of the cowl: I wanted to do the posts. For that, as I cannot drill easily holes into the posts when soldered to the assembly, I had to do also the strikers and dove tails to pillar (I hope the denomination is correct).

I’m now preparing also the windshield frame because the cowl’s top shape is depending of it. On the original part, what’s under the windshield frame is made with wood. I will use brass; it will create less dust!

[31 LaSalle]

Amazing Workmanship and Attention to Detail cant wait to see the finished product

 

[Pat Hollingsworth]

looks like some I have seen awaiting restoration, Roger. Guess at this stage they are approximately equals. So dedicated to the pursuit of accuracy here- it is an inspiration me. 

so, make a guess if you will= about what weight do you figure your completed Cadillac in lifetime brass will come in at? And, you can answer that in kilos if you like, we can do our own conversion to save you time. heehee

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks 31 LaSalle! Unfortunately for us, we have the wrong year: you have a 31 LaSalle and I'm doing a '32 Cadillac convertible. This body was more or less the same on LaSalle and Cadillac. However, 31 and 32 are really different...

@Pat: Hard to tell. The Mark II was 3.5 kg when finished; this model will be not so heavy because there will be no electric motors for the windows and most probably the body after the doors will be polyester/resin.

 

The frame for the windshield is a very large casting in bronze or aluminum; I don’t know exactly. Anyway, I cannot replicate that method but I have to silver solder many parts small or large to get a similar result.

The picture depicts my accrual result; this is the point I don’t exactly know how I can continue…There will be a solution on day, but not for the moment!

 

[Roger Zimmermann]

The transition between the vertical and horizontal surfaces at the windshield gave me a hard time since the wood’s buck. It was not better when I added the molding which is in front of the windshield: compared to the pictures I have, what I did is not quite looking the same as on them. Why? Lack of accurate dimensions, and the possibility to see the real shape myself. Various stencils made with cardboard would help too, but for that the physical access to a body is needed. When I did the Mark II, I had the luck to have access to a parts car with which I could do all kind of stencils without risking to damage the finish!
Anyway, I did some progress at the windshield frame by adding a connection between both posts. To be sure that the distance between both will stay the same, I soldered a half band at each post and then I adjusted the connection and secured it with screws. When the frame's top will be done, the lower band can be trimmed.
 

[Model56s]

Words fail. The inner lip on the cowl vent is perfect.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Model56s! At least someone who noticed this detail!

[Alex D.]

5 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

At least someone who noticed this detail!

I believe most of us notice these details and that is why we are here. Like myself, we are just left speechless. 

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks to Johan from Cadillac Club, I got the precise length of the posts, so I could shorten them and add the upper part from the windshield. Johan sent also pictures showing the light curve of that element.

The bottom frame is to be made, as well as the sides. Those will give me some trouble because they have a nice detail. I don’t know yet how I will realize that…