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moon wood replacement


JustDave

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hello everyone

have a question maybe someone can help with,i have 3 cars a 1927 moon roadster,a 1931 devaux and a 1932 edevaux,as usual they all need wood replacement,what wood do i use i was told to only use ash, then i was told only use white oak, now i hear oak cracks to easy, just use selected hardwoods, whats the answer,

dave

1927 moon 660 roadster

1931 devaux 675 sport coupe

1932 devaux 680 sport coupe

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Guest Robin Coleman

Dave, I am far from being an expert in wood work, but I do know the most important thing is to use wood that has been properly cured and dryed. Any good cabinet shop or furniture maker could advise you which way to go. Ash and oak are both very hard woods and difficult to work with. I would think that for a dash or other trim work walnut, cherry or maple would be better. If it is interior framing, then oak or ash would work provided it is properly dryed. Also, if it is for interior framework that will not be seen then modern laminates like marine grade plywoods would work well.

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We have been rewooding cars for 30 years. Use ash for internal body wood. Ash is what most cars originally used. Kiln dried, not air dried. Lighter than oak, easier to work and just as strong. Red oak was used for convertible top bows primarily because it looks better stained. I have never seen white oak used in car bodies but then we have only rewooded maybe 25 bodies. We recently finished a '28 Cadillac. A previous owner had replaced some of the damaged wood with pieces fashioned from pressure treated yellow pine. Good luck.

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I have completely re-wooded a 1931 L-29 Cord cabriolet,that had spent it's whole life in California. It was extensively dry rotted, soft and punky. The body framing was a mixture of red oak and ash. However the main body sills were made of white oak, so I replaced them with white oak, just as E.L. had his men do.But then again I may be a tad fussy.

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There isn't a really good book on re-doing pre-war wood car frames. There are a couple on restoring "woodies" (wood-bodied station wagons), and the Vintage Craft Series has an old reprint titled "Antique Auto Body Wood Work For The Restorer" (available at RSC and on Amazon.com). That's all I've found. If you will do it yourself, your best bet is to have knowledge of general cabinetmaking, and get someone to advise you.

Phil

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thanks to everyone for there reply, i have got alot of helpful info from everyone,i believe im going to restore the moon roadster first because its the roughest,unfortunately its the last car i purchased,it was bought new by a gentlemen in central calif,in 1951 he tore the car completely apart to restore it, the vehicle sat in a million pieces until about 2002 when a dealer in central calif purchased it,he mocked it up so it would look like a vehicle,thats when i purchased it the vehicle is pretty much complete but very rough,after setting outside for 50 years thankfully it was covered to protect it,but the weather still took its toll on it,the 2.

500 i payed for it didnt deem like alot but now i wonder,i did receive the original pinkslip withit,the 32 devaux i purchased about 7 years ago,its a 3 window sport coupe,it was setting in illinois all its life, a little rough but much more solid than the moon,am looking for anydevaux parts anyone may have,the 1931 devaux sport coupe i bought in 1969,i new i couldnt afford to restore it at that time no money an no experience,i was smart enought to put it in dry storage,i finally took it out inj 2000 an brought it home i have restored many newer vehicles from the 40s an 50s, so the early cars should be intresting,will post pictures when i start the resto,you guys can keep me in check,,,thanks for everything

dave

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Dave-- I can't emphasize enough to take a lot of photos and make sketches to assist your project. Using good common sense and applying basic woodworking skills, I feel you can accomplish the project before you. It is labor intensive but very satisfying when completed. Just a side note my hardwood supplier found me ash baseball bat blanks 3x3x42 inches which worked very good for the posts that the doors swung on. Good luck

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thanks seldenguy,

ive been a little nervous about the wood work but ive always said nothing can be screwed up that someone else cant fix,for years i rebuilt wrecks cut them in half an generally found a way to put alot if cars back on the road,my wife wonders why i can cut a car in half an make a nice car but,a broken sprinkler usually flys across the front yard when i try to fix it,i guess we all have different agendas

dave

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Guest Robin Coleman

While I totally respect the opinions of the senior members here, as a long time restorer of old aircraft and motorcycles I can positively state one fact. The old style glues were all they had back then. Being organic in nature they were (are) highly suseptable to moisture, mold and bacteria. Use a modern glue like Resourcinal (not sure I spelled that right). They are much stronger and will NEVER degrade for any reason. They are cheap and easy to use and non toxic. As with any glue, the main thing is surface prep and proper clamping pressure. Too little pressure and the joint will be weak due to improper penetration. Too much pressure and the glue will be forced out and again you will end up with a weak joint. look on a web site that sells supplies for aircraft builders like Wicks, and you will find the stongest glues available. Remember, even gently flown airplanes take a heckuva beating in the air. The glues used ha ve to be very strong!

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Guest martylum

Hi---Ash has been my wood of choice for auto wood framing because it is much more stable when you machine it to final size. Oak is more brittle and more likely to warp, wind, and twist when you machine it to size. I keep a stock of ash dimensional lumber for these wood projects .

In reality, carmakers used all kinds of hardwoods such as poplar, oak, maple, etc to make the wood framing in the coachbuilt body days but the luxury cars I've worked on generally used ash.

Marty Lum

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Robin- You are spot on with your suggestion of resorcinal glue. I watched the forming of a set of roof trusses many years ago where the fabricator was a airplane/glider builder/pilot for the Schweitzer aircraft corporation. He knew the value of having a long lasting project. He is gone today but his shop is still there standing straight and true, and I feel it will stand many more years.

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hay

i want to thank everyone for sharing there info with me,the pictures of youre restorations make me wonder if i can do as good a job on my cars,i live in southern calif at the present time so all suppliers should be close for any thing i might need,the moon is in a million pieces at the present time, as soon as i can im going to get the frame apart & cleaned & primed and start on the wood in the body, will keep everyone posted

thanks again dave

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Dave:

Maybe I can help on two of your cars. I am restoring a 23 Moon touring car and just finished the wood work. The original wood is ash and that is what I put in along with a lot of Kwik Polly. Regarding the Devaux which was built by Durant. There is an excellent car club for Durant products. I happen to be a technical editor and can highly recommend it. It does have a link on this forum. Do you have pictures of your cars.

Have a nice day.

Jan

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jan

good to hear from you,ive been a member of the durant club for several years,i havent had a chance to start on the devauxs yet even though ive had them a long time,as soon as i get a chance ill email you pictures, thank dave

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