Jump to content

idrjoe_sandiego

Members
  • Posts

    532
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by idrjoe_sandiego

  1. Actually it is easy if you use a valve stem puller. Not endorsing any product here, but this is an example from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Kastar-Valve-Stem-Fishing-408A/dp/B0022UPHHM/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 I have one that has a little chain instead of a cable. The t -handle swivels to an I-shape to get thru narrow openings. Easy-peazy.
  2. Gary, if the threads weren't buggered before, they are now! Also, I'm not sure what changes Dave made, but rigid exhaust mounts transfer noise and vibration inside the cab. It is hard on the exhaust system, as well (more prone to weld cracks,etc...). Consider non-authentic but vastly improved flexible mounts.
  3. bmg1959, sorry if this TMI (too much information!): Let me expand on what Bob said above. First, your distributor has two distinct advance mechanisms: 1) The first type is a Mechanical Advance system, of which there are two common sub-types. The first sub-type of mechanical advance is the “manual” style consisting of a lever or cable on the dash or steering wheel. When manually pushed/pulled, the cable/lever advances or retards timing. If there is no mechanical dash to distributor linkage, then the distributor employs an “automatic” or centrifugal mechanical advance system (using weights and springs under the breaker plate). 2) The second type of distributor advance is the Vacuum Advance system. The vacuum canister hanging on the side of the distributor is a give-away for a vacuum advance system. Do you have a dash “octane selector”? I don’t see any linkage in your photos. Bob’s advice on testing the advance would apply if you have a dash selector type of mechanical advance. If your distributor has weights (also known as a centrifugal advance), there is a little more to the story. Just to clarify, since I don’t see any mechanical dash to distributor linkage in the pictures, I will assume that you have a centrifugal mechanical advance. If you are inquiring about how to tell if the VACUUM ADVANCE is working on your distributor, you need to check it independently of the MECHANICAL (centrifugal) ADVANCE. One way to do this is to disconnect the steel vacuum line going to your distributor. Plug the line with a rubber vacuum cap. Now you are testing MECHANICAL (centrifugal) ADVANCE only. Follow Bob’s advice with the timing light to see that the chalk line moves with engine rpm. Note the chalk mark position at idle. Now slowly increase rpm watching for the chalk mark to move. At some rpm, the chalk mark will stop moving (maxing out, for instance, @ 7 degrees advanced, if that is what the manual calls for). At that point, the mechanical advance has reached its limit. Now, lower the rpm back to idle and watch for the chalk mark to return to its original position. By the way, if you had one, you can test a manual (dash-lever) mechanical advance system in the same fashion. Simply move the dash lever and watch the chalk mark move up and down. Now, on to testing if the VACUUM advance is actually working. For this test, you will need a hand-held vacuum pump (available at any parts store for $29.00). Using a length of vacuum hose, connect the distributor vacuum can to the pump. Don’t touch the accelerator. Start pumping the vacuum pump. You should check to see if the chalk mark starts to move as the vacuum level is slowly increased. If Bob is correct about the 12 degrees vacuum advance specification, you should see the chalk mark advance about 12 degrees and then stop moving at a certain vacuum level. Also, the vacuum can should be able to maintain that level of vacuum for some extended period of time, (i.e., that the can doesn’t leak.) This now is only checking basic functions; Does the advance system(s) work or not? The actual advance curve is specified in factory manuals. On my Sun machine, I would actually graph a series of data points (the vacuum advance curve) indicating how many degrees of vacuum advance occurs at what vacuum level. One can match the factory curve, or “re-curve” it to accomplish various performance changes. Likewise, the Sun machine can plot the mechanical advance curve. Here I would plot engine rpm vs. distributor advance in degrees. To learn more about what the two types of advance systems do and what effects each one has on engine performance, you will find plenty of forum discussions on those topics. Nice Buick, by the way! Merry Christmas, Joe
  4. Not so fast. The fenders pictured are from a DA Phaeton, not a sedan. Check the parts book. Dodge made at least three different rear fenders. Dneivandt, the single mounting hole you refer to is the most obvious visual key to distinguishing a Phaeton fender from a sedan fender. There are actually several differences. Unfortunately, most of these are discovered when attempting to mount a mismatched fender/body combination. You soon discover how looks can be deceiving. Ask me how I know.
  5. OK sorry guys. Back again with some more info. WAY TOO MUCH INFO! First, Stakeside is correct, there are many Stewart-Warner tanks. Tom Turner, in an article in the DB news (April-May 1998), enlightens us with the following data: At car #A308122 (April 10, 1925) a change was made to a larger capacity vacuum tank, Model 216-H (Stewart) . A larger capacity tank, mounted on the firewall, was specified for the earliest six-cylinder cars, Senior, Standard, and Victory. According to Stewart literature this was the Model 216-AF. All parts are identical and interchangeable with 216-H except for the outer tank—or shell—which is 2-inches longer. Late 1928, the venerable Stewart tank was replaced with a Kingston unit with a cork float. At last in 1930, all Dodge Brothers models switched to the camshaft-driven diaphragm fuel pump, developed by AC Spark Plug Co. (note: earlier posts I said 1931- wrong- it was in 1930). **** I am still looking for a definitive model # used on 1929 Dodges and trucks. **** To answer your question about amplifiers as an option… Yes, apparently you could use the Kingston amplifier on other brands of vacuum tanks. Read on: Dodge Service Bulletins discuss Kingston tanks and amplifiers (bulletins signed by H. M. Wiegand, Director of Service at Dodge Brothers). Kingston replaced Stewart vacuum tanks late in 1928 on the Victory. Quoting from one of Wiegand’s Dodge Brothers Service Bulletin: According to the Kingston manual, “The booster may be used on any vacuum tank which is operated by suction from the intake manifold to increase its efficiency on long, steel hills. Under no condition should the hole in the vacuum unit booster be made larger or smaller as it is very accurately calibrated to regulate the vacuum necessary to effectively operate the equipment on our cars.” Next question was about a manual. I have not found the “Kingston manual” referred to in the Service Bulletin. I have some Stewart manuals, however. One example is attached here in PDF. When I reviewed my photo archive back from 2008 of the restoration of my 1929 DA Phaeton, I realized I gave you some bad info. Actually, I had two tanks from two 1929 DA’s. I remember now trying to sort out the details. I ran into the same problems Stakeside and Bob discovered. There apparently are original DA’s with Stewart tanks and there are some with Kingston. I believe that they probably used both, depending on availability. I have seen so many DA’s with either tank. See photos of examples and a reproduction top for a Victory. To add more confusion, the cars made for export (like mine) had even more variation. My 1929 DA engine # in the low H-60000’s had a mechanical fuel pump! As I now recall, both my tanks were in rough shape. I decided to fix both up until I found a definitive answer. That answer never came, so I picked the better looking one, which I now see was a Stewart tank. Some Stewarts came with a cast top cover and some, like mine, came with a tin cover with fillister screws. The Stewart just looked nicer and was shorter, which fit better. I used the only amplifier I had, which was a Kingston. Stewart had their own version of the amplifier, seen in the attached pics. At first, I thought I made a Frankenstein, but now, according to the Service Brochure, you can use the Kingston amplifier on any brand of tank. See photos of my two tanks. The model #’s are in the photos. Yes Doug… no two are alike. Stewart-Warner Vacuum Tank MANUAL 2-11-27.pdf
  6. A "Dodge 6" with chromed/Nickel wings with Blue Glass"...Are you referring to your item labeled Photo 9 - which IS pictured ? If so, I think you are correct, it is from a 1929-30 DA. I believe originally it was copper with the blue/black Cloisonne (see the beat up one on my car). So what you have pictured there is a highly unoriginal "hotrodded" version of a 1929-30 DA emblem. Essentially this has been ruined and is virtually worthless. That said, actually I love it, you did some amazing work and any time you are ready to part with it, let me know. (I hope you know I am kidding you about ruining it!) EDIT- Sorry, I get it now. You actually have two 1929 DA badges: 1) Photo 9 restored (no mount) pictured and 2) "Photo 8" (not shown) of an unrestored badge with a mount. Can you show the unrestored one-front and back? On second thought, the one without mounts may not be worth much. Try mounting that to the radiator without the posts- tough action. (epoxy, maybe?). Better yet, try adding posts after the cloisonne is done. No way to solder new posts on now without ruining the chrome and all your fine work. This may be an item best suited to someone collecting badges rather than installing them on a car.
  7. Hey John- How about a definite maybe? So, trailer up to your place, then take an old car the rest of the way. How far are you from the meet? Will an 80 yr old car loaded with old farts make it up there? BTW > I have nothing but praise for the NW DB group. Anyone sitting on the fence should definitely hook up with this fun, energetic group. Good folks-Good times!
  8. Hi Bob - I agree with your plan- go with what you have. $400 is crazy-money for a tin can. I am sure you have bigger fish to fry! If the purist in you can't live with it, have patience. Another Kingston will come along at a much lower price. I also found some fittings that might serve as a substitute replacement for a broken amplifier (only in form, not in function). See photos. One other comment re: more exceptions than rules. I mentioned above that Chrysler switched over to mechanical pumps in 1931 (John, correct me if this is wrong). However, on another thread long ago, I posted pics of a major exception...a 1929 DA engine with a mechanical fuel pump! I have seen two of these, and both were for export. As Doug always says, "no two are alike."
  9. Bob- Sorry for a late reply, but others may be interested in these magical, mystical devices they called "vacuum tank amplifiers". 1929 DA's came with the Kingston style of vacuum tank. But as we all know, there are more exceptions than rules. Sometime late in 1928, in the Victory Six line, Chrysler switched from the Stewart-Warner to the Kingston brand. The Kingston carried on into the Dodge DA line and beyond. Ultimately, they switched over to mechanical pumps (in 1931, I think). Here are a couple of photos I found in the archives re: Kingston vacuum tank amplifiers. The last photo is my tank and has mostly original fittings and some non original fittings. I have the originals, but the threads were buggered. In my book, anything fuel or vacuum related must not leak! Credits for the remaining photos are non-existant; the added captions are mine. If anyone recognizes these photos, please speak up so I can give you proper credit. The advertising brochure is obviously from the manufacturer! Now, if you really want to go into depth on these vacuum tank amplifiers, check out John Bittence’s VICTORY SIX manual: See Section I of Book 5 for information on Vacuum tanks in general. See Pages I-15 and I-16 for specific details about the “vacuum amplifier”. Bittence, as usual, includes lots of juicy tidbits and plenty of close-up photos. Many of the photos include precise dimensions. If you haven’t already done so, purchase this “must-have” 5-Star CD-ROM. You will learn a ton about late 20’s-early 30’s Dodges, guaranteed. I don’t have John’s permission to reprint these pages, so just buy his CD! BTW, I have no commercial interest in John's CD-- I am just an enthusiastic reader. Joe
  10. Now there's a real man... Especially in Texas!! Bob, I thought we were doing AXLES this week... LOL
  11. Anytime Bob-Glad I could help. Any updates on the project or the cuss words?
  12. Actually, Horace's widow was Anna Thompson Dodge, not Grace. See the link below: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anna_Thompson_Dodge
  13. Bob- I think I understand your question. Yes, you will have to destroy the inner axle felt seal. Here's a little write-up on the subject: http://forums.aaca.org/showthread.php?t=376932&p=1325429#post1325429
  14. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <o:OfficeDocumentSettings> <o:RelyOnVML/> </o:OfficeDocumentSettings> </xml><![endif]--> Do you need to remove the rear wheel bearings or axle seals in a 1929 Dodge DA? Maybe a few pictures might shed some light on the subject. Here goes... Photo 1: The rear axle shaft is held in place by six bolts that hold the rear brake backing plate and the outer rear axle seal retainer. In this example, the outer rear axle seal retainer is an aftermarket version made of aluminum and contains a modern lip-type outer axle seal. (I highly recommend this upgrade- we have used it for over 5 years without any trouble). Photo 2: Shows rear brake backing plate and the outer rear outer axle seal retainer after removal. Photo 3: The rear axle shaft can now be removed from rear axle housing. Put the axle nut and washer back on the shaft. With a few light taps with a slide hammer-type puller, the axle slips right out, along with the outer wheel bearing cup. You can also re-install the drum and the axle nut and use the drum itself as the slide hammer. (I recommend using an actual puller- do not chance messing up your drum). The photo shows the inner and outer tapered wheel bearings back to back on the now-removed axle shaft. These bearings are pressed on. Many ways to remove them-best way being pressed off. Some people cut them off with a die grinder. Be careful if you choose the latter approach. In any case, these bearings must be replaced if removed from axle. Photo 4: With the rear axle shaft now out of the way, the photo shows in order a) the axle-housing flange, the inner wheel bearing cup, c) the axle shims, and then d) the inner axle grease seal (steel-cased felt seal). Photo 5: A CLOSE- UP of Picture 4: showing in order a) the axle-housing flange, the inner wheel bearing cup, c) the axle shims, and then d) the inner axle grease seal (steel-cased felt seal). ( I am working on finding a replacement modern lip-type inner axle seal. I will post results, if successful). Photo 6: This photo shows in order a) the axle-housing flange, the inner wheel bearing cup, c) the axle shims, and then d) the inner axle grease seal (steel-cased felt seal) which I have now started to remove by destroying it. If someone knows a magic trick, bring it on! Photo 7 shows me pulling the inner bearing cup with my slide-hammer type puller. Once the inner seal is gone, you can get a bite on the inner cup (and the shims that are immediately behind the cup). This took a few healthy slams with the puller before the cup gave up the fight. Photo 8 shows the inner bearing cup and the two thin shims that are immediately behind the cup. Your axle may have more or less shims than mine. The shims are there to allow for the specified axle shaft end-play. I recommend checking your end-play before you pull the axle just for comparison sake. The actual shim dimensions will vary with your new bearing/cup stack. Try to be gentle with the shims if you intend to re-use them. Mine were only 0.005 inch thick, so handle them with respect. I beat the living sh*t out of mine. I was able to flatten them out, but I will probably find replacements. Photo 9 shows inner or outer bearing cup (flip-side). The inner and outer bearings and cups happen to be the same on the 1929 Dodge DA. Hope this helps-cheers! <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:ApplyBreakingRules/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> <w:UseFELayout/> </w:Compatibility> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]-->
  15. Thanks Phil- I will try Then and Now. I have got an order coming from a vendor for what may be an acceptable modern neoprene lip seal. According to the best measurements I could get off of the old seal, anyway. Of course, the old seal was thoroughly raped, pillaged, and plundered. We'll see how that goes. I will post the new part # if it's a green light. Obtaining this seal has been a problem child for a while. And now the great news- Success finding a NOS replacement axle! A very nice gentleman, Mr. Nelson Pease, N.B. Pease & Co came through. Ph# 413-283-7620. I looked up his company for a website and didn't find one. But I did find a very cool picture of his place. Check it out= click on the picture below for a larger view. I would love to see the inside! So thanks to everyone. And Wyobob, I may be interested in a spare-so I will email you.
  16. Too funny Doug! You will get me out to Hersheytown yet!
  17. OR..... Dave, someone's already had their way with your truck...
  18. Thanks Pete, John, Robin. With all of your additional information, I was able to dig a little deeper and found a few missing puzzle pieces. Here goes... The general outline of the events are on the registration form. I briefly read this form awhile back and I recall seeing alot of "???" in the schedule , as well as seeing the "Evergreen Space Museum" listed as an event on Wed, Thurs, AND Friday. I recall briefly reading the registration form the first time around and thinking "this can't possibly be the final schedule --No way do you need three days to see the Evergreen!" Just to clarify this point to others who may want to join this meet or future BCA National meets, after re-reading the registration form, I discovered the following near the top of the form: "NON-BCA MEMBER AT LARGE REGISTRATION" so people like ROBIN and myself can register themselves and their cars. It costs $20 more and you won't be eligible for getting your car judged or registered in the "archival" category. Pete, don't feel bad, I missed it, too. And the point is well taken about joining the BCA to get all the juicy details through the Club Newsletter. Here's the link to the registration form : http://www.buickclub.org/2014/Oct%2026%202013%20Revised%20Portland%20registration%20form.pdf Thanks to John for educating me on the "groups". 500 posts, indeed, but mostly those are on technical or mechanical related subjects. Not so much on Club inner workings. Yes, I wish now I had asked two months sooner! And finally thanks to Robin, who wanted to know some of the same stuff I did (only you get to the point a lot quicker than I). I found some answers for you, too. Check out the very bottom of the registration form where it says "Registration deadline is July 6, 2014... LATE OR DAY OF EVENT registration AT MEET DIRECTOR'S DISCRETION" BTW Robin, that's very cool that you are going to bring your Dad. That was my plan, as well. Bring my Dad and the 1937 Limited 90 up to Portland for some vintage Buick action. He was a BCA member for many years with folks like Harry Logan, Jack Corliss and Wayne Yonce. Me, I just work on the old cars and love to drive them. That's why I was inquiring about how much actual " Buick touring" takes place at the national meets. Hope everyone has a great time in Portland. I guess maybe I'll get started on next year's plans......
  19. Spinneyhill- I agree, Hans is apparently the "Neiman-Marcus" of the used parts world. He certainly has redefined "Needless-Markup" for me. And besides, my spell-checker doesn't like his name- keeps wanting to change it to "Hans Computer".
  20. Questions from a potential Buick Club member / first time attendee at a Buick National Meet: Please, let me apologize in advance- my intention here is not to criticize or complain. I was contemplating joining the Buick Club and attending the National Meet next week. As a newbie to both, I am looking for some info and clarification. For months now, I have considered attending 2014 national meet. Once a week, I check in at the Buick club website and on AACA Buick forums waiting anxiously for the details. The Buick club website offers a general description, but it was quite vague. I have read forum posts from many members asking for this information to no avail. Then, with only one week to go, the actual details finally appear (this thread). Was I looking in the wrong place? I realize people join Car Clubs for many reasons. Personally, I enjoy the camaraderie with others that have vehicles from way back when. I enjoy driving vintage cars. I really enjoy getting together with a bunch of folks that want to drive their old cars on actual "driving tours" in a "rolling museum" fashion. So, after perusing the National Meet itinerary, it appears there is but one "driving tour" listed. Save for the "judging,” all the rest of the events look like bus tours or meetings. If that were correct, why would someone drive or trailer their vintage Buick (1400 miles one way, in my case) just to go on a BUS tour while the cars sit idle in a parking lot? Call me dumb, but I don't get it. Maybe the Buick National Meet is intended for events other than driving-type tours. Don't know, never been to one. On the itinerary, referring to the event: “1959 Division Driving Tour 9:15 am -?? Driving tour on Historic Columbia Gorge Highway" This, I assume, is an actual "drive your Buick” tour. What does “1959 Division” mean? LAST QUESTION: So, does the Buick club normally sponsor any actual "drive your vintage Buick" car tours on the west coast? As in "rolling museum" type tours? If so, do many pre-war Buicks show up or are they mostly modern iron (Reattas and such)? (I see the Orange County group has organized two groups to drive up to Portland together. That's what I'm talking about!) Thanks for your time and patience, Joe.
  21. Thanks Bob. I am sure it could have been worse- surprisingly very little drama. I didn't see anything like that listed on Myers site, but he, no doubt, doesn't have it all listed (e.g., Roy Brister's inventory). I'll give him call. Sounds like you were having some fun with your DA in the rear axle hub arena, too. All better now?
  22. Hi guys. While out on a recent tour, an axle shaft broke. Fortunately, no drama. While pulling away from a stop sign at about 5mph, shifting from 1st to 2nd, there was a slight pop, then no traction in any gear. It was also fortunate the tour just ended, so AAA intervened for the ride home. Now I am on the hunt for a replacement axle half shaft for a 1929 Dodge Brothers DA. According to data I have, this was originally a "US Axle" part #527. (30 9/16" long). The Lempco replacement axle shaft part# is LD27. Anyone out there have one (or two) for sale, or do you have any leads for same? I have a request in to Nelson Pease in Palmer, Mass. (Thanks to Gary Ash for that tip). Haven't heard back from him yet. http://vapinc.com in Colorado claims to have a huge NOS axle inventory, but none for the DA. And, like everyone else that tries, the inner axle seals are hard to find. Only supplier I have found that might have some is Bernbaum. I am trying to find a modern non-felt seal for replacement. The stainless steel round shims need replaced too. McMaster-Carr has some that are close, but not exact. They appear to be OD=2.75" x ID=2.25" x 0.005" thick. The outer axle seals are readily available. Thanks for any help or advice you have on the seals or shafts or shims. Joe
  23. Nice find! Even comes with the YOM plates and SNOW TIRES! These are well-made, durable cars. Should last another 80 years.
  24. Your best bet is to post this question in the Plymouth forum (click here:http://forums.aaca.org/f154/). Lots of knowledgeable guys ready to help you there!
  25. KCL- I guess this is your weapon of choice: http://www.spraynine.com/content/history Good to know. I have never heard of this stuff. They have an impressive history-over 50 years!! Thanks, I'll get some.
×
×
  • Create New...