idrjoe_sandiego

Are you sitting down? Glen Smith in Australia has recasted the pot metal speedo housings see: http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/DOD-049.jpg for only $415.00 AU. Home page for Glen: Welcome

John- true, but the # is still in the wrong place.

Besides grease, grime, and sometimes paint, yes. "Also any recommendations for gauge, speedo restorations?" What's wrong with yours?

Rbardin- the number you pointed out in your last post is not the correct location of the engine #. The correct location is near the REAR of the engine block on the milled surface for the manifold. If you posted the correct VIN for your car, the engine # will be approx. 18,000 higher. Assuming original engine, of course.

Phil, you must have been a Boy Scout. My capers come in a 64 oz. jar and my escapades, a full gallon jug. I have heard a few times that MMO is relabeled ATF with a higher price tag. It sure looks the same and has the same properties, like freeing up frozen pistons,etc. Anyone heard this? However, a quick look at some MSDS's show that ATF and MMO have some common features, but MMO has mineral spirits (a solvent-See threads on rubber rejuvenation) and some aromatic chemicals (chemicals with a benzene base -an industrial cleaner/solvent). Specifically MMO contains O-dichlorobenzene(used in softening and removing carbon-based contamination on metal surfaces) and p-dichlorobenzene (mothballs). MMO contains mostly something called "Naphthenic hydrocarbons " which is a non-specific way of satisfying an MSDS requirement but not giving up the true ingredients. The "secret squirrel" component, if you will. Other products with this type of designation are used in the machine shop as lubricants, coolants and cutting oils. MMO has a much lower flash point than ATF most likely due to the mineral spirits.

Where did you find the serial #'s you posted? Pictures would help.

Victory 6 Engine # 's range from M-10001 to M-128387, running from 10,000 to 40,000 higher than car serial #.

I'm gonna guess that this is San Francisco circa 1936 from the Brunswick-Balke sign. They were making phonographs there at the time. A guy by the name of John Shelley was launching his political career for the 1938 California Senate. According to a few websites, it just so happens: He was president of the Bakery Wagon Drivers’ Union in the early 1930s, but found time to graduate from San Francisco Law School in 1932. He was elected president of the San Francisco Labor Council in 1937, then launched his successful political career with this 1938 run for the California State Senate. The one picture I did see of him bears some striking resemblance in the facial features but he had a lot less hair (Unless in that picture in the car he was wearing was a rug! ) He later went on to become mayor of San Francisco.

Except for a bunch of old car collectors, who would hide babbit in a bunker? For those who play Jeopardy or trivial pursuit: babbit is made of tin, lead, copper, and antimony-mostly inexpensive base metals.

Step up to the ELE-095 if you really want to see the road. And for others to see you. I run the originals in the DA sedan, and most of the time I feel like I need a match to see if they're lit. I run Halogens in the Phaeton. No doubt, halogens definitely are the ticket. I didn't buy the ELE-095's cause they are pretty pricey. I just hotrodded a new halogen bulb onto an original base. Pretty easy and 1/3 the price. Before you just up and hotrod your headlights, make sure your wiring and sockets are up to the task. I recommend new wiring and use relays. That way you have the minimum current running thru your dash and your lighting switch. Direct the current to where its going to do you the most good, and that is in the halogen bulb itself. I agree, the better condition your reflector is in, the more light you'll get. Make sure you optimize the bulb for the best focus using the adjusting screw at the back of the lamp. This is fairly critical especially if you decide to engineer your own bulbs. A few millimeters one way or the other can greatly enhance (or diminish) your headlight illumination. As for running 12v bulbs on 6v- Sure they will last a long time, but forget it. They are so dim , you might as well turn them off.

So does that mean you really don't want the original prize offered? That's good, 'cause it's a lot cheaper to send warm fuzzies than it is to ship heavy metal! Just out of curiosity Jason, of those 2000 posts, how many of those were "carpet snap" related?!! All kidding aside, no one tries as hard as you and John to help people on this forum and to share your info. A Fourth of July thanks is in order!!

Since Dave didn't take it, it looks like you're the winner Mister 2K. Congratulations.

Rbardin- Welcome to the DB forum. absolutely love your 1937 Diamond T truck. Stunning! If you have any questions about the newest member of your fleet, PM me. I have two 1929 Dodge Brothers DA's, the first cousin to the Victory 6. The two cars have many features in common, starting with the engine and drive train. More similarities than differences for the most part. As you could guess from my name, we are probably pretty close. Joe Jason- to see his pictures, just click on the images "8" located near his name to the left and it will open up the gallery for you to view.

http://www.restorationstuff.com/pdf/RestorationSupplyCompany.pdf Here is the bulb page from the catalog.

My that was a big step up from your earlier ride! And I suppose this is where you celebrated the new arrival... WARNING: thread hijacking in progress...

No wonder you know so much!! About that Conestoga Wagon--Any pictures? or daguerreotypes??!!

Yea Bob, that car was designed to go trolling around the lake when you don't have a boat. Wife drives real slow while you and your gear sit out there on the outrigger seat. Hopefully you don't catch anything real big as there are no seat belts.

Ok, VR-324XP is listed there. The "P" at the end of the part # is for "positive" ground.

John, was that part of the Louisiana purchase at the time??

see if this helps... I think your regulator is listed on page 9. The regulator part # in your picture is only partially readable. Do you know if this is the stock regulator? Joe

That's a great story Brad. Do you have any current pics of the remains? Is that a family business name on the side of the truck? Out of curiosity, how do you suppose this guy from Finland got a hold of this picture??

Vern- you and your car will burn up! It's Africa hot in Texas in June, July or August. For that matter, it is Africa hot in Riverside, CA in July, where the meet was originally located. (For the same reason, thankfully, that's not going to be the venue). And with all due respect, the "kids" argument holds no water. In the last five National Dodge meets I have attended, you could count the kids in attendance on one hand. By my estimate, perhaps incorrect, the far majority of attendees are retired.

Why?

Kevin, aren't the stock DC-8 fan blades rather small in diameter? I recently saw a DC8 engine and the fan looked like it was for a toy car! I understand they had a clearance problem using the larger diameter fan blades as you mentioned. Can you post a picture of the stock setup for others to see? Thx, Joe

Do you still need this info?