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Everything posted by idrjoe_sandiego

  1. I agree, John. LT seems to be the only effective means of cleaning this brown crud off. Frank, I wish I had a couple of grandkids to do the heavy scrubbing for me! LOL Lenny-any brand names you recommend for "truck wash" ? 27Dodger-nine years-wow. How do you apply "rubberized roof coat"? Bill-white tennis shoe dressing? sounds worth trying. How do you mask off the black? KCL- as always, you have great info to share. I don't have any problem with our OLD WWW's... it's just the new crap they are peddling (date codes after 2003-2005). Oh, by the way-I was kind of kidding about the climate controlled garage. Actually EVERYONE in my neighborhood has a climate controlled garage. Doug- BLACKWALLS?? are you crazy??
  2. Lenny-Here's my inner tube thread: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/warning-defective-inner-tubes-286287.html Definitely avoid the cheap "vintage" tubes. Cheap, as in "cheaply made". Not necessarily cheap in price.
  3. I believe these are readily available BRAND NEW. $68.00 on AMAZON.COM. See if this looks like the one: http://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-MC544-Professional-Master-Cylinder/dp/B0015TTXTY/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Dodge|40&Model=Deluxe|4758&Year=1933|1933&carId=005&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive
  4. Do you have any pictures? In particular, pictures showing the difference(s) between Budd and Murray issues?
  5. Has anyone had this problem lately? Over the last 3-4 years, no matter which brand of Wide Whitewall tires I have purchased from two different unnamed vintage tire companies (UTC's) have turned from nice bright white to SH*T brown in under six months. Some have never been on the road, some have never left the climate controlled garage. Doesn't matter. Clean 'em on Sunday, by next Saturday , you can repeat the annoying process. Any suggestions are welcome regarding alternate sources. Perhaps there is a company out there making these tires actually concerned with quality control. Please see a parallel thread on AACA General discussion forum: http://forums.aaca.org/f169/tire-advice-700x20-whitewalls-needed-356524.html
  6. Here's some pics showing the poor workmanship and UGLY BROWN "whitewalls". By the way, in my last post, I implied that the problem was "fixed". In fact, it is pretty far from fixed. The large UTC continues to ship this crap and we continue paying for all the peripheral headaches. I am desperately seeking a real fix or a company that cares about quality and not just the bottom line. In the meantime, I am stuck sending back yet another TEN Tires.
  7. Matt , I feel your PAIN. I have been going through a carbon copy of your scenario, except for I have FOUR sets of FIVE WWW tires now involved. That's TWENTY whitewall tires out of TWENTY that are showing up brown. UGLY BROWN. Disgusting BROWN . I have struggled with this issue for going on nearly years now and chose to remain silent . In my experience, if one makes any waves for vendors who are in bed with AACA, they send out their mafioso post-haste. Once again, we are treading on sacred ground. See my previous posts WARNING: DEFECTIVE INNER TUBES for the entire story here: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/warning-defective-inner-tubes-286287.html However, since you, Matt, brought it up, I can't sit on the sidelines any longer. Besides, who in this business is more credible than you? I seriously can't believe that they treated a heavy like you, this way. (FYI, I'm not insulting Matt-- a "heavy" in sales is a VERY, VERY good customer). In fairness, I received nothing but very friendly and accommodating service from both UTC's and they were happy to "warranty" the problem. Of course they should be happy-they are holding the money and we are stuck with the garbage. They were also very friendly as they: 1) repeatedly botched the orders 2) sent out wrong items or quantities 3) replacement tires were now "discontinued" 4) they wanted me to either pay for the difference for the substituted item OR accept an inferior product that did not match. Talk about bumbling and incompetence. Any other company that was a NON-MONOPOLY would be shuttered by now. After hearing Matt's saga, I am beginning to believe this is by design. Could a reputable company screw up that many times in almost the EXACT same pattern TWICE? What am I thinking? Naw, it has to be a coincidence. So here's a small snippet of the dozens of emails I sent to "fix" the problem: THE PROBLEM: The tires have turned from white-walls to brown-walls or yellow-walls.Despite hours of hard intensive cleaning, within a week these white walls become an ugly brown color. Over the past year, extra effort was required to keep the tires looking clean. If I cleaned them up on Sunday, by the following Saturday, they need cleaning again. One tire refuses to clean up at all.In this hobby, it s all in the details. These tires are an unsightly headache and I refuse to waste another minute cleaning them. One more thing: the whitewall/blackwall interface is thin and peeling in places as well. A DISTURBING PATTERN: Incidentally, this is the second batch (NOW FOURTH BATCH)of tires with the identical symptoms. The first batch was a set of 6 Lester WWW tires made by (large east coast UTC) and distributed through (The west coast UTC). (The west coast UTC) handled the warranty claim on these. Additionally, we went through hell and high water with the defectiveinner tubes that went along with this order. These tubes would shred and split without warning! Clearly, the last 2-3 years demonstrates an extremely disturbing pattern of poor quality control and repeatedly marketing the same defects again and again. With the first batch of brown tires, (The west coast UTC) replaced the tires and shredding inner tubes. Fortunately no one got hurt. (The west coast UTC) however, made no allowance for the time, inconvenience, and expense involved with demounting, remounting, balancing, packaging, and re-shipping these defective products. It was so expensive to pay someone to screw up my wire wheels after repeated mounts and dismounts, that I purchased my own tire machine and a computerized spin balancer . Now I need a trained pit crew.
  8. Hello and welcome to AACA forums. A very good source of information for these rare vehicles is through the Dodge Brothers Club. The membership has several cars like yours. I know two people personally that have recently restored Dodge 8's. One is a 1930 DC8 Straight 8 Rumble Seat Coupe; the other, a 1930 DC8 Straight 8 Sedan. They are beautiful cars with amazing engines. Information on the club can be found at Dodge Brothers Club You can PM me for specific contact information for the owner's of the DC8's. For their privacy, I won't publish that info openly without permission. The Dodge Brothers Club also has a technical adviser for your vintage car. He is VERY knowledgeable about these vehicles and is eager to help new members. I would also recommend that you post this question specifically in the Dodge Brothers Section of this forum for better answers to your questions. Now let me ask you a question: I recently finished a 1929 Dodge Brothers Phaeton that was originally from Argentina (near Buenos Aires). While restoring the vehicle, I found that some of the upholstery door panels were replaced by a man (tapateria) who wrote his address and name inside the panels when he did the work in 1957. His town was Villa Eloisa near Buenos Aires. I looked up this town and found a current phone directory of the residents. It turns out that someone with the same last name still lives at the address written inside the panel. My guess is that it is the tapateria's son or grandson that lives there now. By any chance do you live near there? Or would you be willing to contact him for me? My Spanish is ok, but not fluent. I'm sure the grandson would love to see this panel, and maybe he knows something about this car. Thanks, Joe
  9. This may help get some part #'s 1929 - 1954 Chevrolet Master Parts & Accessories Catalog
  10. Hi Reid- I replaced my front axle on my 1929 Pontiac Roadster a couple of years ago due to over-sized and eccentric king pin holes. I inspected the original axle for a part number and to my surprise, I found a "bow-tie" on the axle. After a bit of internet searching I found a vendor who crossed the part # to a 1929 Chevy. He had a NOS axle in stock and my problems were solved. So look into the Chevy idea- I'm sure it will be a lot easier to find Chevy spindles. You might look carefully at your axle for the bow-tie and/or part # to confirm this. I suspected my spindles might have cracks in them so I had them magnafluxed. Turned out they were OK. Joe
  11. Gene, I just went through this. Take a look at my thread here on this forum: http://forums.aaca.org/f165/1937-buick-90-limited-vacuum-line-338098.html The info in my last entry (dated today 11-19-2012) should help your cause. Joe
  12. Ok. I finally found a pretty good rendition of the details on this for all who may want to know. 1). Point your browser at this web site: 1937 and 1938 Buicks www.1937and1938Buicks.com 2). Scroll down and click on Volume XIV Issue 5 (May-June 1996). You need Adobe Reader to view the issue. It starts around page 19 of the PDF file. OR you can download the PDF file directly. Just click to save the file then use Adobe Reader to view it-- http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/The-Torque-Tube/Volume%20XIV%20Issue%205%20(May-June%201996).pdf They have a 3-4 page article with details and pictures. A few details are missing here: the exact diameter of the tubing used and what color they were (if they were painted). Thanks again to all for your contributions.
  13. Mike-thanks a million -now out to the garage to start bending that tubing!
  14. Hi Mike- Thanks for that. I also see a bit of the line that travels from the intake ahead of the carb on its way to the fuel/vacuum pump. Still missing the view of the firewall metal tube to rubber hose transition. Where does this occur? Mike, your lines look like copper. I also am getting votes for 5/16" steel lines. Are they painted or ?? Sorry to badger you all about this, but it is just as easy to bend this tubing up correctly as it is to run it any old way. Unfortunately if I do the latter, then all the experts come out of the woodwork to point out the incorrectness!
  15. Seriously, no one has any pictures to post of the '37 Buick engine compartment???? I have the shop manual and have read it cover to cover >> no detail whatsoever about the vacuum lines. I certainly appreciate your help so far, but the pics will really help! Thx, Joe
  16. I am surprised how few pictures there are here of the 1937 Buick engine compartment. Can anyone post some detailed photos hopefully including the fuel pump and vacuum lines on both sides? I did find one in the gallery, not detailed enough. I also found this 37 for sale with a couple pictures but I need some idea if the vacuum lines I see here are correct. They don't look like they are, especially the copper line near the firewall. Here's the link: 1937 BUICK ROADMASTER | The Vault Classic Cars Thx, Joe
  17. John, most of the time you will be fine without any sealer on the intake. It all depends on the condition of the mating surfaces. If surfaces were a bit rough, I might use some of the copper spray on the intake gasket surfaces to guard against those blasted intake leaks and lean misfires. I rarely use any spray on the exhaust gaskets and never on the carb gasket. Also, I would recommend making carb adjustments as a last resort, especially if you are unfamiliar with it. I'll assume it ran OK before the new gaskets, so chances are your carb is OK. You really never want to touch the carb without good cause and especially never before the engine is fully up to temperature. Are you familiar with vacuum leak testing? This should be your main priority. Then try to get it running long enough for the vacuum gauge. The big question now is: Even though the engine is not running very well, why won't it stay running? It needs just three things: fuel, compression and spark. Any one of the three not present in sufficient quantity and she won't run. You'll need to find out what you have and what you are missing. I always play detective retracing each one of my steps- what changed between when it last ran well and now. Good Luck and let us know about the vacuum gauge results. This will really help with the diagnosis. Joe
  18. Thanks guys for all the help-I will search those pictures just to make sure it looks correct. Joe
  19. John- You mentioned your "current status - called and talked to Bob's (I think it was Bob) who said didn't need rings except to center gaskets". By chance, I talked to someone at Bob's today also. My question was about the Belleville washers. Because yesterday, when browsing the new Bob's Catalog, I noticed how they will sell you two-thirds of a new exhaust manifold for just under $900! And the proper copper gaskets and intake rings are also available. But alas- no Belleville washers !! When I inquired about the washers, I was informed that the '37 Buick does not use Belleville washers. My (mis) understanding was that if you fail to use those washers and the anti-seize, that soon you will be ordering yet another exhaust manifold. But what do I know, they are the experts. Anyway-I digress. Back to the problem at hand... I hope that the new O'Reilly composite gaskets are up to the task at hand. Especially now, after they have been reinstalled again. Sorry to harp about gaskets, but these manifolds were a poor design in the 30's. You need all the help from your gaskets that you can get. (Ask me how I know!). John, as other posters have mentioned, you seem to be describing a bad vacuum leak. Did you use any kind of sealer on the intake gasket? And how about the carb gasket? Was this replaced as well? Carb bolts all snug? The fact that she is running better the second time around could suggest that you have done some good, in the process, of eliminating some vacuum leaks. If you can get the engine to run long enough to get it up to operating temperature, you might try hooking a vacuum gauge up to the intake manifold. Don't use the ported vacuum at the base of the carb. You should see 18-21" steady vacuum. You can then try slowly closing the choke. A well sealed engine should start coughing with even a little choke. On the other hand, if you have vacuum leaks, your application of choke may actually improve the engine's idle. (This idea only works when the engine is fully warmed up). You can also do the usual tests for seeking out vacuum leaks (propane enrichment or oil, for example-But don't use starting fluid or carb cleaner). It is also possible (but probably less likely) that the old gaskets that you replaced were leaking and the carburetor and ignition timing was set to account for it. Now, perhaps, the new gaskets have improved the vacuum leak situation. Now the engine needs to be re-tuned for the present situation. The trusty vacuum gauge should provide some answers. Let us know what your vacuum gauge says. Hope this helps, Joe
  20. Mike- I know the clips you speak of. Excellent! And at the moment, the rubber vacuum line you describe runs from the firewall and is hooked directly to the intake. OK, so what about the vacuum line that runs from the intake manifold to the vacuum pump outlet? Any idea how that makes its journey around the engine compartment? And the correct vacuum port on the intake I'm guessing is the one just to the rear of the carb (where the rubber hose is now attached)? Reason for all the questions--I just finished rebuilding my leaking AC mechanical fuel/vacuum pump. The previous rebuilder incorrectly installed the two small valves in the vacuum pump both with their "legs up". Obviously the pump wouldn't work this way. My guess: Faulty pump led to the vacuum lines being removed. Now, the vacuum pump works so well it is kind of noisy with no lines attached to them. I'd like to get the vacuum lines reinstalled correctly so I don't ruin my new pump. Thanks a million for your help. Joe
  21. On my 1937 Buick 90 Limited, someone removed the vacuum lines from the vacuum pump (fuel pump combo). Does anyone have any photos showing the correct routing for the vacuum lines to and from the fuel pump to (presumably) the wiper motor? I assume these were copper lines? What size copper line was used here? Thanks for your help. Joe
  22. Erik, its so true about the Belleville washers. Isn't there also some type of anti-seize compound that is supposed to be used between the exhaust manifold sections? I think you will end up with leaks without this stuff. Was the gasket you purchased from O'Reilly copper? I have found that the non-copper gaskets tend to blow out rather quickly.
  23. Often this can be a gas cap vent problem. Run it without the gas cap to see if that makes any difference. I doubt the cracked seam would have the symptoms that you describe.
  24. Here's another shot of the 3 tags on an exported 1929 Dodge DA : VIN , Dodge Dealer in Argentina, and "Dodge Bros Six".
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