idrjoe_sandiego

Stakeside- what a nice job! Pretty impressive woodwork. I'll bet you didn't have all that much old wood to pattern off of. Curious that the top slats weren't T&G. I assume you are routing out all of the detail in the slats we see in your top pictures? There has been some on going questions re: 1929 Dodge truck motors here on the forum. Perhaps you could post some detailed pictures of your motors esp. passenger side block. Thanks, Joe

The movie is in theaters now. Anyone seen it?

Jason, what if he needs those vice grips for something else? Personally I like an 8mm open end wrench. It's a bit gentler, just in case you might ever want to use that shaft for the real thing again.

I think Jason's yanking you! LOL

I don't think 1929 Dodges had 4 cyl engines. Either someone changed the motor or it's not a 29 or its not a Dodge. Post some pictures & try to find your VIN and engine # so we can help you ID your vehicle.

The other NE dizzy's with your 1084x model # are: 10846A for 1927-30 Dodge Senior 10846A for 1928 Dodge Victory & Standard 10846B for 1928 Dodge Victory & Standard 10845 for 1929-30 Dodge DA

Movie isn't out yet. Naw, not Leo (J. Edgar). Leo's the one looking thru the binoculars. The guy driving is a bad guy. Yes, even "badder" than J. Edgar himself.

Ray, I took a second look at your pictures. I think one other item is missing and that is the straps that run from the front to the rear bow to keep the "field" of the top from sagging. You can see a couple of these in my second photo in post #2. David maybe can add to this. Also Ray, any chance you could post some detailed photos of your side curtains both inside and outside? Thx, Joe

Thanks for adding that David. It helps to hear from the pros. Ray, the pads David refers to, can be seen in the second photo post #2 above. The passenger side pad is seen in the upper left corner of the picture. We used the cotton-no foam. David, one comment: It seems that with this particular Dodge Phaeton top, when I was setting up the bows, the straps really did the work of keeping the bows from sagging. But without the pads, you would definitely not get very smooth roof lines. Is it possible there are different type of irons/bow setups? This one Dodge advertised as a "one-man top" which is a joke, unless that one man happens to have at least four gorilla arms.

John, you have some good eyes for a 108 year old man. Did you have some fun for your Birthday? And don't tell me about the new tennis balls! Let's really test you. Look closely. Who is that driving the car??

Thanks for the kind words Ray. Here are a couple more pics I took during the top bow setup. You may find it useful to employ a couple of ratchet straps to set your top up in the desired position. Stand back and check the top profile from a distance before you commit! Then, measure the exact strap length needed. Allow for a bit of stretching. I imagine the reason one would use the leather belt strap method is that you could alter the strap length easier. And Rick, I know what you mean about the tie wraps-see theses pics!

I was just watching a trailer for the new movie J. Edgar about former FBI director J. Edgar Hoover. They show a quick glimpse of a car which might be a Dodge Brothers. Maybe one of you eagle-eyes can correctly I.D. this one. Joe J. Edgar Trailer (U.S. Version) - IMDb

Ray, it looks like you may be missing some support straps. On my 1929 Dodge DA Phaeton, the entire top is supported by these straps. See attached photos. I have also seen them made out of leather, almost looks like a belt for your pants! Personally, I like the look of the fabric version. Joe

John (keiser31) -Front bearing retainer looks something like this. If anyone knows what this is from, I would welcome the info. As it stands now, its just another mystery part in my collection!

Dean, there is another thread on this topic here: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/6volt-starter-front-cover-shatters-why-299450.html

Manuel, is this the kind of starter pedal you speak of? This picture is a 1929 Chrysler Phaeton. I was never sure what that pedal was for, as it is located just in front of the driver's seat. Seems like a strange place to put a pedal.

Phil, I may need to revise my definition of work! This story reminds me of the old adage: There is never enough time to do it right, but there is always plenty of time for the new owner to do it over. Unfortunately, the wannabe electrician that did your wiring is probably still on the loose somewhere. And HAPPY BIRTHDAY to John! I should be more respectful of a fellow 107 yrs. YOUNG! That ought to be some cake- is the fire extinguisher ready? P.S. Hey John, aren't you overdue for a trip down here?? I just had a buddy stop in from out of town last Saturday. It was a gorgeous day, so we took the '29 Phaeton out for a spin all around Mission Beach, Pacific Beach and La Jolla. He was absolutely amazed by all the people waving, getting out their cameras, honking, thumbs-up and all. After we returned, he couldn't stop talking about how he felt like a rock star driving around in an old car!

Honolulu Dick- gotta love quick & dirty!! Thanks! As far as tax goes, probably every state has its own procedures, but in California, which many state laws mimic, we pay a registration and license fee annually. If your car sports YOM (year of manufacture) plates, an additional fee is charged for this. If your vehicle is not running, you place it in "NON-OP" status which still costs something, but it is pretty minimal. Traditionally a brand new car would pay the highest registration fee based on the value of the car. Each year the reg fees would drop a bit until they hit a baseline bottom level fee over about 8 years. This was true until recently when all of my "bottomed" out cars started going UP again! In California, sales tax is paid on every transaction where there is a non-family change of ownership. This is up to 9.75% in some counties. Sales tax is charged over and over on the same vehicle each time a new owner takes title. Government at all levels tapped the coffers and now grasp at anything to TAX you.

Nice looking car John. Love the double pin striping. However, changing a light bulb hardly qualifies as "work".

1 cubic inch=16.387064CC so 212.5 CID= 3482.25CC or almost 3.5L An easy way to remember for me is my Corvette always lists the motor size as 5.7 L and I know this is a 350 Chevy motor. Given that, a simple ratio will get you any other volume conversion.

Happy Anniversary Bill! The prices these Clum switches are selling for are crazy. The last one sold for even more I think. This looks like a good repro-project/opportunity for someone. Joe

Hey Doug-just thought I might check on your progress so far. You ARE taking pictures, right?? What color are you painting the engine?

FMF- nice Chrysler! I have one, too. No doubt they are totally different when you get to see the whole car. In the movie, you only get to see a piece of the car, which didn't include the full door.

John, once again, your eagle eye for cars amazes me. I googled 1947 Buick Convertible and this is what i found. Looking at the similarities between the Buick in the movie (what I could see of it), and the 1950 Chrysler, it makes you wonder how much industrial espionage and design stealing was going on. Some say all the cars look alike today. It's true today, but it was pretty much true back then ,too.Thx! Joe

I know , they have a forum for this type of question, but the DB forum is where the smart guys hang out so here goes... A friend, Lane Nishikawa, made a movie here in So. Cal. about WWII and while watching it, I notice a couple of period cars. One in particular looks a lot like our 1950 Chrysler convertible, but with several differences. Here is a series of frames from the movie showing some features. Can anyone nail this one down?