Machine Gun

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Everything posted by Machine Gun

  1. That's exactly what I've used on all of the cars I've added seat belts to.
  2. Hi Mark: Thank you for the suggestion. I knew that Steele restores mounts, but in my case that wouldn't be practical. I'm not able to do that work myself and so I have to farm it out. My mechanic can't lay up the car for the three weeks time that Steele takes to complete the job. Anyway, the frame mounts arrived on Tuesday and the engine mounts are on the way. Jim
  3. I realized that my only practical option is to convert to the 1965 style mount, as suggested by some in other threads. I found and ordered a pair of '65 frame mounts that are due to arrive today. I sure hope that they bolt right up to the existing frame holes. If all goes well I'll order the matching rubber motor mounts and get that job behind me. This whole thing started when I wanted to replace my badly leaking oil pan gasket, which requires unbolting the mounts and raising the engine. One of the mounts is so bad that I wouldn't dare touch it without having a set of replacements in hand. One thing leads to another, as they say.
  4. Near as I've been able to determine, new motor mounts for a '64 Skylark with the 300 engine are not available from anywhere. I also understand that the mounts are unique to the '64 model year, which explains why no one bothered to reproduce them. It looks like my only options are to have my mounts rebuilt by Steele Rubber Products, or else find a good used pair. The issues I have with the rebuild option are that the car will be laid up for about three weeks while I wait for my mounts to come back, but more important is the fact that Steele will only rebuild the non-interlocking type. I'm not sure which type I have, I'll have to check with my mechanic. He's got the car right now to do the oil pan gasket and exhaust. In my opinion the quickest and least painful thing for me to do is find a set of good used mounts. Does anyone here know of a reputable parts house that deals in used Buick parts? Of course, all other suggestions would be welcomed. Jim
  5. The point about having to remove the exhaust Y-pipe coincidentally relates to the suggestion of having a mechanic do the oil pan job. I have an appointment on Wednesday to have my exhaust system replaced. I have a new stainless exhaust system whose installation I'm farming out because I don't have a torch to break the bolts free from the manifold. I don't want to take the time and effort to rent a torch and then go through the rest of the process. I may very well do the same with the oil plan gasket. I'll ask the guy to have a look at it next week while he's under there working on the exhaust.
  6. Guys, thank you all for your replies. OK, I guess I'll have to man up and do it right. My main problem right now is time, so the oil pan project may have to wait until the fall. Fortunately the leak isn't so bad that it has to be fixed before I use the car during the summer. I just fixed oil leaks from the rocker cover and intake manifold seals, which were practically vomiting oil from the top rear of the engine. The car practically created a Super Fund site wherever I parked it, but the top end is nice and dry now. Anyway, as simple as those fixes were, they took me weeks to complete just because I've only been able to steal an hour here and there. It's been crazy busy, and I want to drive the car as often as I can instead of having it laid up while I do another job. My time situation is probably not any different than with most of you. Anyway, thanx again for your insights and advice. Jim
  7. I have an oil pan gasket leak that I want to fix. The engine is the 300 c.i. V8. A prior owner apparently over torqued the bolts to the point where two had sheared off, and the gasket needs replacement anyway. My question is whether the motor mount bolts have to be removed and the front of the engine raised in order to get the pan out, or not. The factory shop manual indicates that has to be done, but the Mitchell repair procedure does not indicate the need to do that. My problem is that I'm not in a position to raise the engine, so if I follow the Mitchell procedure and find that the engine does indeed have to be raised I'll be past the point of no return with a destroyed gasket. I'd like to hear from someone who has actually been there and done that. Thanx. Jim
  8. It wasn't the weekend, but I finally took the Skylark out on the road yesterday for the first time since parking it in the garage last fall. It had been leaking oil pretty badly from the rocker covers and the intake seals, and I finally got around to replacing them. I still have the oil pan gasket to deal with, but things are vastly improved and the car will see a lot of road time this weekend.
  9. Beautiful car! It brings back memories of my own Opel, a 1973 Manta Rallye that I had while at college. Mine was the same color as yours, except that mine had the flat black hood. It was a blast to drive. I wish there were more of them around.
  10. We still have one about 15 minutes from my house: http://www.warwickdrivein.com/.
  11. There's nothing particularly exciting about this one, but I'd love to have a 1969 LeSabre four door hardtop with the 350 engine. My dad bought one new and I'd get to drive it around every so often. I always loved the look of the '69 Buicks. If only I had a larger garage...
  12. Grew up in a city (Paterson, NJ) where it was always a crap shoot as to when your street was going to get plowed. It wasn't necessarily on the same day that it snowed, which made it interesting. In those pre-snowblower days you had to shovel out your driveway and hope that you got out before the plow came through and doubled your workload. Worse yet if we had one of the cars parked on the street that you had to dig out. Of course if we got out before the streets were plowed the drive was pretty interesting in our '69 LeSabre or later '73 LeSabre, which were pretty terrible in the snow without chains. Then there was the adventure of getting back into your driveway if you got out before the plow came, but got home afterward. We're certainly able to get around reasonably well and safely back then as we honed a different set of foul weather driving skills, but we have it so much easier today with front wheel drive and radial tires. We had to do all we could to get moving back then, and once we did we kept mindful of the fact that it was slippery precisely because of the trouble we had to get the wheels turning instead of slipping. That's the good news. The bad news is that modern FWD and 4WD vehicles now make it easy for those who lack honed skills and common sense to get enough traction to get up to speed where they can do some real damage.
  13. The second photo brought back memories of when I stayed at the Deauville in 1965 with my parents. I'm surprised it's still there.
  14. A couple of comments from my own experience. First, I agree that at that price the car might best be considered as a daily driver, in which case $10K may not be unreasonable. However, as wndsofchng intimated your $10K car may well not be a $10K car once you've finished attending to the things necessary to bring it up to daily reliability. My experience mirrors his to some extent. Back in October I picked up a 1986 Pontiac 6000 LE with 30,956 miles on it as a replacement for my 2013 Dodge Dart that I put a gazillion highway miles on since new. I've always wanted an older car to use as a daily driver, and the Pontiac filled the bill for many reasons that included the combination of funky looks with semi-modern features such as working A/C, disc brakes, shoulder belts, etc. The car is immaculate inside and out and runs like a top. Paid $2,500 for it. But it's no longer a $2,500 car. Having been a motor head since I was a young child, I knew what I was in for with regard to getting it in shape for my daily 100+ mile commute. I'll spare you the details, but my $2,500 car is now a $4,000 car that I've put nearly 7,000 trouble-free miles on since I bought it, and I haven't looked back. It's not a stylish car, but I'd rather have it for $4K than some new jelly bean that'll set me back $30K or more. To the point as others have made, if you look at it as a daily driver you'll probably end up paying more than $10K in the end, but where are you going to find a comparable vehicle for that amount of money, and with such low mileage and style? Hopefully a very close inspection can provide clues as to how the vehicle was stored over the years and how it was maintained while it was on the road. For example, if the car was driven 500 miles annually as a pleasure car was the oil changed annually, or did it have only one oil change at 7,500 miles and the owner doesn't think it's due until 15,000 (you might be surprised how some people think).
  15. Welcome Tony. Very nice car. As for not being overly mechanically inclined, not to worry, you'll get there with the abundance of expertise and help you're going to find here. Jim
  16. I put about 170 miles on the Skylark yesterday between a trip to PA for a clambake at a friend's place in the Poconos, and a cruise-in at a local restaurant here in Sussex County that has the event every Saturday night during the summer. My only disappointment was that by the time I got to the cruise-in the parking lot where the classics are displayed was full, so I had to park in the adjacent field among the great unwashed. Otherwise, it was a fun day.
  17. Update: Apparently the supposed dealer, WeBe Classics, isn't what they appear to be. Go to their home page and look at the photos under "Our Collection." The cars shown cars that have different photo backgrounds, with some photos even having the selling dealer information in them. Read their About Us description where they say "...and as a car dealer we enjoy the challenge of meeting and exceeding those standards..." Then go to their inventory page and read the fine print at the bottom: "WeBe Autos Ltd. is NOT a Dealer. The independent partner/member is representing the owner of this item..." The whole thing smells, but now I'm not sure from which end.
  18. I've alerted eBay as well. I confirmed that it's the same car. I requested the VIN from the LI dealer, and it's the same as on the eBay listing. Unless the LI dealer hasn't updated his web page to show that the vehicle might have been sold, it sure looks like a scam to me. I wonder though, how would a scammer get away with something like that? Who would be intelligent enough to have that kind of money, yet dumb enough to bid on a high ticket item without first inspecting it? I can't imagine anyone transferring money or handing over cash if there's no car. Perhaps they're only after the deposit, but PayPal is pretty good about protecting their buyers and themselves against fraud. Speaking of which, there's another funny thing about the listing: they will accept a PAyPal deposit, but there's no mention of how much the deposit must be.
  19. Yep, running radials. I had a problem similar to yours with shifting wheel covers on my radial-equipped '62 Studebaker GT Hawk. Although the GT covers moved they didn't make any noise, while the Skylark cover made noise yet all four stay put.
  20. Problem identified and solved this afternoon. I would rather not have replied and let the topic fade from memory, but I said that I'd update you. The short answer is that the noise came from my passenger side front wheel cover! Here's the long answer: I lifted the car up again this afternoon and spun the rear wheels and listened for the sound once again in an attempt to isolate it. I was able to hear it, but it suddenly occurred to me that the sound emanating from the transmission tail shaft didn't seem loud enough to be heard at road speed. I started the car while it was in the air inside the garage, shifted into drive, and slowly released the brake. The wheels spun, but there wasn't the slightest hint of the noise I'd been hearing since Day One of my owning the car. OK, now what? I manually spun the front wheels again, checked the wheel bearings, nothing. I set the car down, backed it out of the garage, and the clicking was there again. I asked my wife to drive slowly out of the driveway while I walked beside the car and heard the sound coming the wheel cover. I removed the cover, road tested the car and for sure the sound was gone. Early on the process I had removed the wheel covers to see if there was anything loose inside them or with the retaining rings, but everything was tight and secure. I throughly checked the offending wheel cover after I removed it today and it was secure as ever. For lack of anything else to try, I readjusted the retaining ring teeth that hold it onto the wheel, although the cover was always very secure on the wheel. That adjustment solved the problem. The only thing I can think of that may account for the issue is that the slight flexing/deformation of the wheel with the weight of the car on it was just enough to have one or more of the wheel cover retaining teeth to make and break contact with the wheel. Whatever, it's fixed. I feel like a numb-nuts. Thank you for all of your suggestions - Jim
  21. Made a run to an antiques mall in Newburgh yesterday and took the Skylark on I-84. She cruised smoothly and flawlessly at between 65 and 70 mph with coolant temperatures staying between 190 and 210 degrees F with outside temperatures around 86 degrees. My new power steering pump and hoses stayed dry as a bone. I still have to find and fix an oil leak, and the clicking noise I described in another thread continued to annoy me, but it was too nice a day to keep the car in the garage.
  22. Welcome from a fellow Jersey guy (I'm up in Vernon). Gorgeous car. Glad to hear that you drive it regularly. Jim
  23. NTX: The click is always there, at all speeds. As I said previously it's not very loud and is only audible at road speed when the windows are down and I'm riding along something that reflects the sound back into the car, like Jersey barrier. There's no vibration at any speed, or any other symptom that might suggest a U-joint problem. I hear nothing with a stethoscope probe placed directly on the U-joint; the sound is only audible through the stethoscope when I hold the probe on the tail shaft. That's why I'm ruling out the U-joint. Hopefully it's not the tail shaft bushing. Jack: You're the second guy to mention the parking pawl. JohnD also mentioned it and I sort of dismissed it, but I should probably take his and your suggestion if I don't find anything wrong with the speedometer gear. I'll have to pull the manual and see how to check the pawl adjustment. I'll update after I get back under there in a week or two.