Machine Gun

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Everything posted by Machine Gun

  1. Here's the promised update from back in November. The car is back on the road. I finished it up yesterday, and it's all good. I bought a new brake booster and dual circuit master cylinder from Summit Racing. Got the distribution block and stainless steel lines from Inline Tube. The block is the same type as used on the '67 models with the factory dual MC. I called Summit before I ordered to ensure that the booster and MC were for a drum brake setup. Everything bolted up nicely. The only thing that didn't fit without some careful bending were the pre-formed lines between the MC and distribution block. Inline Tube said they would bolt right up but they didn't, far from it. The new MC is considerably wider than the stock one, and there's very little room between the MC and the inner fender. It took some doing, but I managed to re-form the lines without kinking them. To be fair to IT they didn't sell me the MC, so perhaps a stock GM MC would have fit better. The only issue I had with the road test was the fact that the engine had a miss that wasn't there back when I parked the car last Fall. I had removed the spark plug wire from the cylinder nearest the brake booster because it was in the way when I was fitting the MC lines to the distribution block. I had forgotten to replace it, and quickly learned that it's important to connect all eight spark plug wires on an eight cylinder engine. Thanx again to all for your suggestions.
  2. There was a relationship, but not a good one. They were separate companies. White Castle sued White Tower in the 1920s or 1930s for copying their building design and using a similar name. Don't recall how it was settled, but considering that White Towers were still around in the '60s I guess it didn't go too badly for them. We used to have one of their coffee mugs, seemed like it weighed 10 lbs. Long gone, I wish we still had it.
  3. White Tower??? They can't still be around. Any idea where and when this photo might have been taken? I used to go to a White Tower as a kid with my uncle in my hometown of Paterson, NJ. Brings back pleasant memories.
  4. The dash may not be sexy, but I very much like that style. The instrument cluster is similar to my dad's '69 Le Sabre. I loved everything about that car, and wish I had the room in my garage to have one again.
  5. I certainly will. Be patient though, nothing happens quickly around here. I'm still researching the parts I'll need, and after I finally order them I'll have to find the free time to get the job done. Could be a while. I found a master cylinder-booster assembly that seems to be the proper one based on Summit Racing's application guide (SSBC A28141). I'm a bit skeptical though, since everything else I found with dual reservoirs from multiple sources is designed for disc-drum or disc-disc applications, and there was no dual reservoir MC offered on the Skylark in 1964. I thought perhaps that the parts for a 1967 Skylark would bolt right up to my car, but based on what I can tell from the Buick parts catalog the part numbers for the brake pedal and rod are different, so I'm not so sure. I will contact Summit to confirm the application, hopefully they'll know. I also need a distribution block that's not also a proportioning valve. All the ones I found are a bit pricey, probably because they have the low brake fluid plunger that I won't need. I'm pretty sure that one from a '67 will do the job.
  6. Guys, your replies are very helpful and I thank you for taking the time to offer suggestions. Based on what I've read here, I plan to convert to a dual reservoir system and use the copper alloy lines and form them myself. Not sure if it'll be necessary, but I'll probably also replace the original power booster while I'm at it. Will do some research this evening to find a proper booster and master cylinder setup that will be a direct bolt-on replacement for my stock setup. Need also to get the proper distribution fittings.
  7. I don't know why the sedan would be any different than the hardtop as I presume the frames wold be the same, but everywhere I could find pre-bent lines they listed only convertibles and hardtops. I'll e-mail Inline Tube and see what they have to say. Thanx for the lead. This process started months earlier than I had planned. I was going to do the rebuild in the spring as a preemptive strike, but last Sunday morning I backed the car out of the garage and got sinking feeling. You know, when the brake pedal sinks to the floor. Anyway, as part of my rebuild I was considering a conversion to the later dual circuit master cylinder, but I think I'll stick with the original setup with new parts. Jim
  8. I'm going to rebuild my brake system, front to back. I want to use pre-bent stainless steel lines that several companies offer for sale. My only problem is that I've only been able to find line kits for convertibles and hardtops; no one lists kits for sedans. Does anyone here know if the hardtop lines are the same as the sedans? The Buick parts catalog lists only tubing sold by the foot, so I can't compare part numbers. I'll make my own lines if necessary, but I'd like to go the prefab route if I can. Can anyone help? Jim
  9. Exactly what Aaron said. I've had mine for about three years and couldn't be happier with it. They sell extensions for vehicles that have additional length between jacking points, so I'm pretty confident that you'll get a QuickJack to properly lift your car one way or the other. Having said the above, I offer two comments: First, if I didn't lift my cars very often I'd probably not have spent the money on the lift. Getting a car up on four jack stands is a PITA, and the QJ is so much more convenient for me. However, if I lifted a car only a couple of times a year I'd use jack stands. Second, you'll notice that when the car is on the lift you have no access from the sides of the car. For example, if you need to work on something between the rear end and the engine you'll have to enter from either end, and then scoot yourself all the way under the car until you reach where you want to be. Not pleasant for the claustrophobic. I'm not claustrophobic, but I don't enjoy laying completely under the car lengthwise. FWIW. Jim
  10. The carb arrived on Friday, and I installed it yesterday morning. It performs perfectly. The vacuum-operated choke release works as it should, and the car accelerates from a dead stop and also while at speed without stumbling, two issues that I had unsuccessfully battled with over the four years I've owned the car. The only issue that came up is that the thermostatic coil assembly that the coolant runs through leaks inside the choke housing. I contacted the seller to request a repair or replacement of the part. I swapped it out with the one from my old carb for the time being so that I can keep the car on the road this weekend. So there you have it. Jim
  11. Jon: I decided to buy the other carburetor that you pointed out to me. I chose that one over the Delco rebuilt unit mainly because it's a newer rebuild, and so it's less likely that I'll have to do anything to it like replace old gaskets or the accelerator pump. It also comes with a 60-day warranty, for whatever that might be worth. I think that one is a lower risk overall, and the seller accepted a lower offer. Thank you and Beemon for the thoughts on the older gaskets, something that I hadn't considered. Regarding EFI, I have mixed feelings about it. It's a very attractive option, but for me part of the pleasure of having and driving an older car is reliving the full experience, annoyances and all. I would certainly think differently if it was my daily driver. Jim
  12. Wow, this got complicated! First, I'm going to remain neutral in the Great Electric Choke War of 2018 ?. Second, my car doesn't have a heat tube because the choke thermostat is water-operated. I had the choke piston out last year and there wasn't any obvious crud on the piston or in the bore, and there was no binding as might result from a burr. Because there is no possibility of exhaust gases entering the choke housing, warpage of the bore seems unlikely, assuming that exhaust heat would be the only cause of a warped bore. BTW, one of the reasons that I was considering picking up the Delco rebuilt carb is because it doesn't require a core return. That's of concern to me because of the makeshift accelerator link and the stripped screw hole I mentioned earlier. I don't think a rebuilder would accept the core as-is, and that would add quite a bit to the cost. FYI, the carb I'm looking at is this one: In addition to the concerns associated with a rebuild that were already brought up, I've not been able to verify that it's the proper carb for my engine. I messaged the seller to ask if there was a printed part number on the box, or paperwork that verified the part number (the metal tag is missing, and pencil scribbles on the outside of the box don't do it for me). He said that the paperwork indicated a part number of 12-164, which I can't find a cross reference anywhere. Needless to say I don't have the warm fuzzies about this being the correct carb. At the end of the day I might just install a manual choke and be done with it, not sure yet. Anyway, I appreciate all who took the time to weigh in and offer suggestions. As I normally do, I'll provide an update after I decide on a course of action. Jim
  13. Thanx for the replies guys. @Ben: I very much like the idea of EFI, but regardless of the relative merits of EFI over carburetion, my budget won’t accommodate a conversion. @Jon: Whether the older rebuilt has a leather accelerator pump doesn’t worry me too much because I bought a rebuild kit from you about two years ago, so I know that I have a proper leather pump and gaskets out in the garage! See below for what’s up with my carb. @NTX: The carb has been a royal PITA since day one when I got the car. The accelerator pump link on the outside of the carb was missing. It didn’t take me long to figure out why: the accelerator pump was jammed inside the carb. When I took it apart I found that the cheap plastic pump had come apart inside and jammed up the works. I put in a replacement pump and fabricated a link to get it working again. One of the choke hold down screw holes is stripped. The choke release piston won’t break the choke open with engine vacuum when the car starts, even though there’s proper engine vacuum, nothing is binding in the mechanism, none of the passages in the carb are blocked, and the air intake for the choke piston is clear. What I want to avoid is sending the carb out to a reputable rebuilder only to find that there’s so m much wrong that I would have been better off getting another whole unit, hopefully a decent rebuilt unit that at least has a solid core. @Beemon: Understood and agree on the crap shoot surrounding an old rebuild, but I have a kit from Jon that I could use if need be. I don’t mind doing the labor, but I want to start fresh (somewhat). I just started considering getting a new Holley 2-bbl for about the same money as the Delco rebuilt unit. The Holley will require a manual or electric choke, an adapter plate, some accelerator linkage mods, and an aftermarket air cleaner, all of which I can live with for then sake of getting things to work right. If anyone has any other suggestions after reading the additional information I provided, I'd appreciate hearing them. jfd
  14. My '64 Skylark V8 has a Rochester 2GC that was installed by the previous owner. It's one that he got from one of the auto parts store chains and was rebuilt by Autoline. It wasn't working right when I got it, and although I got it working fairly well right now, it has some issues that have been annoying me for the past four years. I was thinking of sending it out to a reputable rebuilder, but the core is pretty messed up and so I want to replace the whole works. There's a Delco-rebuilt unit for sale that I'm thinking of picking up. By "Delco-rebuilt" I mean that it's in a Delco box and has a Delco tag on the bowl that says it was rebuilt for GM by an independent rebuilder. It's been on the shelf for years, so are there any words of caution about buying a rebuilt carb that's been sitting for decades, apart from perhaps dried out accelerator pump leather? Jim
  15. Final report: The conversion to the '65 style mounts is done. Everything bolted up to existing holes. Cost of the complete set of engine and frame mounts was less than the cost of rebuilding the old mounts. The oil pan gasket, which started this whole affair, was replaced at the same time and the car no longer makes a mess wherever I park it. Thanx again to all who offered suggestions.
  16. I was never able to find '64 mounts, as apparently it was a one year only design that no one reproduces. Steele will rebuild your old mounts, but the turnaround time is measured in weeks and I couldn't have the car tied up like that at my mechanic's place. I forget who, but someone mentioned that mounts from '65 thru '67 would fit, but the frame mounts would have to be changed out as well. Reproduction mounts for the '65 thru '67 model years are readily available from a variety of sources, but the frame mounts not so much because you have to find a set from a parts car. I found a salvage yard with an eBay store that had a pair. Everything bolted up to existing holes. Cost of the complete set of engine and frame mounts was less than the cost of rebuilding the old mounts.
  17. The Skylark is back on the road with new motor mounts and oil pan gasket. Ran it up to church yesterday, and then around the area for various errands. After about an hour's run in hot August weather I parked it back in the garage. I went back into the garage sometime later to find a dry floor for the first time since forever. What a pleasure it's going to be not having to worry about leaving a mess wherever I go.
  18. That's exactly what I've used on all of the cars I've added seat belts to.
  19. Hi Mark: Thank you for the suggestion. I knew that Steele restores mounts, but in my case that wouldn't be practical. I'm not able to do that work myself and so I have to farm it out. My mechanic can't lay up the car for the three weeks time that Steele takes to complete the job. Anyway, the frame mounts arrived on Tuesday and the engine mounts are on the way. Jim
  20. I realized that my only practical option is to convert to the 1965 style mount, as suggested by some in other threads. I found and ordered a pair of '65 frame mounts that are due to arrive today. I sure hope that they bolt right up to the existing frame holes. If all goes well I'll order the matching rubber motor mounts and get that job behind me. This whole thing started when I wanted to replace my badly leaking oil pan gasket, which requires unbolting the mounts and raising the engine. One of the mounts is so bad that I wouldn't dare touch it without having a set of replacements in hand. One thing leads to another, as they say.
  21. Near as I've been able to determine, new motor mounts for a '64 Skylark with the 300 engine are not available from anywhere. I also understand that the mounts are unique to the '64 model year, which explains why no one bothered to reproduce them. It looks like my only options are to have my mounts rebuilt by Steele Rubber Products, or else find a good used pair. The issues I have with the rebuild option are that the car will be laid up for about three weeks while I wait for my mounts to come back, but more important is the fact that Steele will only rebuild the non-interlocking type. I'm not sure which type I have, I'll have to check with my mechanic. He's got the car right now to do the oil pan gasket and exhaust. In my opinion the quickest and least painful thing for me to do is find a set of good used mounts. Does anyone here know of a reputable parts house that deals in used Buick parts? Of course, all other suggestions would be welcomed. Jim
  22. The point about having to remove the exhaust Y-pipe coincidentally relates to the suggestion of having a mechanic do the oil pan job. I have an appointment on Wednesday to have my exhaust system replaced. I have a new stainless exhaust system whose installation I'm farming out because I don't have a torch to break the bolts free from the manifold. I don't want to take the time and effort to rent a torch and then go through the rest of the process. I may very well do the same with the oil plan gasket. I'll ask the guy to have a look at it next week while he's under there working on the exhaust.