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Machine Gun

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Everything posted by Machine Gun

  1. I want to do away with the unsightly FM converter under the dash of my Skylark. I'm familiar with the Retrosound and similar modern radios that will fit the dash cutout but I don't want to go that route because I don't like their looks, and a radio that provides a four speaker stereo setup is overkill for me. All I want is a plain old mono FM radio, but most of all I want the original look, i.e. a factory stock radio. There are shops out there that will convert the innards of a stock AM radio to operate AM/FM, but they're goofy to operate and they charge a king's ransom for the conversion. Did
  2. @Old-Tank: My wife bought one of these for her car awhile ago: Car seat cushion. I didn't even think of trying it in the Skylark until it showed up in the link you provided. I didn't think it would do anything because it's pretty thin and there's no back support, but it wasn't going to cost me anything to try it. As it turned out, it did the trick. It's just thick enough to get my view where I want it, and surprisingly it seems to have made a slight difference in my lower back comfort (not sure why that would be). I'm going to use it for awhile, and if it works out I'll get one of my own.
  3. Finally got the Skylark out for a nice ride with the wife. We traveled from home up to Montgomery, NY where we had lunch. From there up to Walkill to our favorite winery to stock up on some grappa, and then on to visit our oldest son up in Gardiner. We all went to New Paltz for a walk around town before dropping our son back off at his place and heading home. Just a hair under 100 miles for the round trip. There was a short, but heavy rainstorm while we were in New Paltz. The bright side is that not a drop of water got into the car or trunk. It was a great day.
  4. Good point, I never thought about a short guy. But I'd rather think that someone famous like Jabba once owned the car.
  5. Absolutely! That's the approach I plan to take, and thank you for the suggestion. That can solve the lower back discomfort while also sitting me higher up in the sagging driver's seat. Jabba the Hutt must have been one of the prior owners, not only because of the seat sag, but also because I had to swap out the front seat belts for a much smaller set. When the belts that were installed when I bought the car were tightened as much as possible there was enough room to fit a small child in the seat belt with me: no kidding!
  6. The main issue I'm thinking about right now is that the front and rear seat upholstery will no longer match, and I'd probably have to reupholster one or the other. Between the cost of the seats, brackets, possible welding, and a reupholstery job, I think I'm going to table the idea altogether. Thanx for your input.
  7. Thanx for the suggestion Loren. Procar does seem to make some very nice seats that wouldn't break the bank. - Jim
  8. I've had my Skylark for five years now and put a few thousand miles on it in that time. My wife and I have been talking about taking it on extended road trips. It's a four-door sedan with a bench seat that's very uncomfortable for us on trips longer than two hours or so, and we're thinking of replacing the stock seat with modern bucket seats with headrests. Web searches for replacement seats return a dizzying array of products that range from the very cheap to seats that cost more than what I paid for the car. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has replaced their stock seats with modern af
  9. Here's the promised update from back in November. The car is back on the road. I finished it up yesterday, and it's all good. I bought a new brake booster and dual circuit master cylinder from Summit Racing. Got the distribution block and stainless steel lines from Inline Tube. The block is the same type as used on the '67 models with the factory dual MC. I called Summit before I ordered to ensure that the booster and MC were for a drum brake setup. Everything bolted up nicely. The only thing that didn't fit without some careful bending were the pre-formed lines between the MC and
  10. There was a relationship, but not a good one. They were separate companies. White Castle sued White Tower in the 1920s or 1930s for copying their building design and using a similar name. Don't recall how it was settled, but considering that White Towers were still around in the '60s I guess it didn't go too badly for them. We used to have one of their coffee mugs, seemed like it weighed 10 lbs. Long gone, I wish we still had it.
  11. White Tower??? They can't still be around. Any idea where and when this photo might have been taken? I used to go to a White Tower as a kid with my uncle in my hometown of Paterson, NJ. Brings back pleasant memories.
  12. The dash may not be sexy, but I very much like that style. The instrument cluster is similar to my dad's '69 Le Sabre. I loved everything about that car, and wish I had the room in my garage to have one again.
  13. I certainly will. Be patient though, nothing happens quickly around here. I'm still researching the parts I'll need, and after I finally order them I'll have to find the free time to get the job done. Could be a while. I found a master cylinder-booster assembly that seems to be the proper one based on Summit Racing's application guide (SSBC A28141). I'm a bit skeptical though, since everything else I found with dual reservoirs from multiple sources is designed for disc-drum or disc-disc applications, and there was no dual reservoir MC offered on the Skylark in 1964. I thought perha
  14. Guys, your replies are very helpful and I thank you for taking the time to offer suggestions. Based on what I've read here, I plan to convert to a dual reservoir system and use the copper alloy lines and form them myself. Not sure if it'll be necessary, but I'll probably also replace the original power booster while I'm at it. Will do some research this evening to find a proper booster and master cylinder setup that will be a direct bolt-on replacement for my stock setup. Need also to get the proper distribution fittings.
  15. I don't know why the sedan would be any different than the hardtop as I presume the frames wold be the same, but everywhere I could find pre-bent lines they listed only convertibles and hardtops. I'll e-mail Inline Tube and see what they have to say. Thanx for the lead. This process started months earlier than I had planned. I was going to do the rebuild in the spring as a preemptive strike, but last Sunday morning I backed the car out of the garage and got sinking feeling. You know, when the brake pedal sinks to the floor. Anyway, as part of my rebuild I was considering a conversi
  16. I'm going to rebuild my brake system, front to back. I want to use pre-bent stainless steel lines that several companies offer for sale. My only problem is that I've only been able to find line kits for convertibles and hardtops; no one lists kits for sedans. Does anyone here know if the hardtop lines are the same as the sedans? The Buick parts catalog lists only tubing sold by the foot, so I can't compare part numbers. I'll make my own lines if necessary, but I'd like to go the prefab route if I can. Can anyone help? Jim
  17. Exactly what Aaron said. I've had mine for about three years and couldn't be happier with it. They sell extensions for vehicles that have additional length between jacking points, so I'm pretty confident that you'll get a QuickJack to properly lift your car one way or the other. Having said the above, I offer two comments: First, if I didn't lift my cars very often I'd probably not have spent the money on the lift. Getting a car up on four jack stands is a PITA, and the QJ is so much more convenient for me. However, if I lifted a car only a couple of times a year I'd use jack stand
  18. The carb arrived on Friday, and I installed it yesterday morning. It performs perfectly. The vacuum-operated choke release works as it should, and the car accelerates from a dead stop and also while at speed without stumbling, two issues that I had unsuccessfully battled with over the four years I've owned the car. The only issue that came up is that the thermostatic coil assembly that the coolant runs through leaks inside the choke housing. I contacted the seller to request a repair or replacement of the part. I swapped it out with the one from my old carb for the time being so that I can kee
  19. Jon: I decided to buy the other carburetor that you pointed out to me. I chose that one over the Delco rebuilt unit mainly because it's a newer rebuild, and so it's less likely that I'll have to do anything to it like replace old gaskets or the accelerator pump. It also comes with a 60-day warranty, for whatever that might be worth. I think that one is a lower risk overall, and the seller accepted a lower offer. Thank you and Beemon for the thoughts on the older gaskets, something that I hadn't considered. Regarding EFI, I have mixed feelings about it. It's a very attractive option
  20. Wow, this got complicated! First, I'm going to remain neutral in the Great Electric Choke War of 2018 ?. Second, my car doesn't have a heat tube because the choke thermostat is water-operated. I had the choke piston out last year and there wasn't any obvious crud on the piston or in the bore, and there was no binding as might result from a burr. Because there is no possibility of exhaust gases entering the choke housing, warpage of the bore seems unlikely, assuming that exhaust heat would be the only cause of a warped bore. BTW, one of the reasons that I was considering picking up
  21. Thanx for the replies guys. @Ben: I very much like the idea of EFI, but regardless of the relative merits of EFI over carburetion, my budget won’t accommodate a conversion. @Jon: Whether the older rebuilt has a leather accelerator pump doesn’t worry me too much because I bought a rebuild kit from you about two years ago, so I know that I have a proper leather pump and gaskets out in the garage! See below for what’s up with my carb. @NTX: The carb has been a royal PITA since day one when I got the car. The accelerator pump link on the outside of the carb was
  22. My '64 Skylark V8 has a Rochester 2GC that was installed by the previous owner. It's one that he got from one of the auto parts store chains and was rebuilt by Autoline. It wasn't working right when I got it, and although I got it working fairly well right now, it has some issues that have been annoying me for the past four years. I was thinking of sending it out to a reputable rebuilder, but the core is pretty messed up and so I want to replace the whole works. There's a Delco-rebuilt unit for sale that I'm thinking of picking up. By "Delco-rebuilt" I mean that it's in a Delco box and has a D
  23. Final report: The conversion to the '65 style mounts is done. Everything bolted up to existing holes. Cost of the complete set of engine and frame mounts was less than the cost of rebuilding the old mounts. The oil pan gasket, which started this whole affair, was replaced at the same time and the car no longer makes a mess wherever I park it. Thanx again to all who offered suggestions.
  24. I was never able to find '64 mounts, as apparently it was a one year only design that no one reproduces. Steele will rebuild your old mounts, but the turnaround time is measured in weeks and I couldn't have the car tied up like that at my mechanic's place. I forget who, but someone mentioned that mounts from '65 thru '67 would fit, but the frame mounts would have to be changed out as well. Reproduction mounts for the '65 thru '67 model years are readily available from a variety of sources, but the frame mounts not so much because you have to find a set from a parts car. I found a salvage yard
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