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Machine Gun

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Everything posted by Machine Gun

  1. A couple of comments from my own experience. First, I agree that at that price the car might best be considered as a daily driver, in which case $10K may not be unreasonable. However, as wndsofchng intimated your $10K car may well not be a $10K car once you've finished attending to the things necessary to bring it up to daily reliability. My experience mirrors his to some extent. Back in October I picked up a 1986 Pontiac 6000 LE with 30,956 miles on it as a replacement for my 2013 Dodge Dart that I put a gazillion highway miles on since new. I've always wanted an older car to use
  2. Welcome Tony. Very nice car. As for not being overly mechanically inclined, not to worry, you'll get there with the abundance of expertise and help you're going to find here. Jim
  3. I put about 170 miles on the Skylark yesterday between a trip to PA for a clambake at a friend's place in the Poconos, and a cruise-in at a local restaurant here in Sussex County that has the event every Saturday night during the summer. My only disappointment was that by the time I got to the cruise-in the parking lot where the classics are displayed was full, so I had to park in the adjacent field among the great unwashed. Otherwise, it was a fun day.
  4. Update: Apparently the supposed dealer, WeBe Classics, isn't what they appear to be. Go to their home page and look at the photos under "Our Collection." The cars shown cars that have different photo backgrounds, with some photos even having the selling dealer information in them. Read their About Us description where they say "...and as a car dealer we enjoy the challenge of meeting and exceeding those standards..." Then go to their inventory page and read the fine print at the bottom: "WeBe Autos Ltd. is NOT a Dealer. The independent partner/member is representing the owner of this item..."
  5. I've alerted eBay as well. I confirmed that it's the same car. I requested the VIN from the LI dealer, and it's the same as on the eBay listing. Unless the LI dealer hasn't updated his web page to show that the vehicle might have been sold, it sure looks like a scam to me. I wonder though, how would a scammer get away with something like that? Who would be intelligent enough to have that kind of money, yet dumb enough to bid on a high ticket item without first inspecting it? I can't imagine anyone transferring money or handing over cash if there's no car. Perhaps they're only after
  6. Yep, running radials. I had a problem similar to yours with shifting wheel covers on my radial-equipped '62 Studebaker GT Hawk. Although the GT covers moved they didn't make any noise, while the Skylark cover made noise yet all four stay put.
  7. Problem identified and solved this afternoon. I would rather not have replied and let the topic fade from memory, but I said that I'd update you. The short answer is that the noise came from my passenger side front wheel cover! Here's the long answer: I lifted the car up again this afternoon and spun the rear wheels and listened for the sound once again in an attempt to isolate it. I was able to hear it, but it suddenly occurred to me that the sound emanating from the transmission tail shaft didn't seem loud enough to be heard at road speed. I started the car while it was in the ai
  8. Made a run to an antiques mall in Newburgh yesterday and took the Skylark on I-84. She cruised smoothly and flawlessly at between 65 and 70 mph with coolant temperatures staying between 190 and 210 degrees F with outside temperatures around 86 degrees. My new power steering pump and hoses stayed dry as a bone. I still have to find and fix an oil leak, and the clicking noise I described in another thread continued to annoy me, but it was too nice a day to keep the car in the garage.
  9. Welcome from a fellow Jersey guy (I'm up in Vernon). Gorgeous car. Glad to hear that you drive it regularly. Jim
  10. NTX: The click is always there, at all speeds. As I said previously it's not very loud and is only audible at road speed when the windows are down and I'm riding along something that reflects the sound back into the car, like Jersey barrier. There's no vibration at any speed, or any other symptom that might suggest a U-joint problem. I hear nothing with a stethoscope probe placed directly on the U-joint; the sound is only audible through the stethoscope when I hold the probe on the tail shaft. That's why I'm ruling out the U-joint. Hopefully it's not the tail shaft bushing. Jack: Y
  11. Update (sort of). I didn't have as much time to diagnose this as I had hoped, but I did manage to find a few minutes to get under the car last week. All I had time to do was disconnect he speedometer cable in order to verify that the cable isn't where the sound is coming from. It makes a click about every quarter turn of the driveshaft. My next steps, which likely won't happen for at least two weeks, will be to remove the speedometer gear from the tail housing and see if perhaps the gear is making the sound. If not, perhaps the governor would be the next place for me to look. After that, who k
  12. Interesting information, Jim. I didn't find any evidence of welded studs on my car, or where such studs may have been removed and replaced with something else. The screws that you can see along the top portion of the window opening are identical to the ones I found along the sides and bottom of the opening, except that the ones along the bottom still had the body-mounted clips attached. The screws I removed along the top had evidence of sealer on them, so perhaps they had already been replaced once. Regardless, I'm rustproofed, all back together, and dry inside. Thanx for the insight on how th
  13. My second Buick was a '78 Regal, but blue with a white vinyl top and the 305 V8. My first was a '50 Special that I drove away for $85.
  14. Brings back memories of the first new car I ever bought, a 1978 Regal.
  15. NTX: The speedometer works well and the needle moves smoothly without bouncing. While that may not entirely eliminate the speedo drive gear, it leads me to believe that the sound is coming from another source. You are correct that the sound may be telegraphing from somewhere front of the tail shaft. I'll have to do a deeper dive over the weekend. John: I will check to see if there's a shift linkage adjustment that may affect the parking pawl, but I doubt that the problem may lie with that. Consider that the sound is present in all gears, and when I checked under the car I had the t
  16. The click is always there. I mentioned that it's only audible from inside the car when the sound reflects of something only to indicate that it's not very loud. It's audible from under the car while it's on a lift and you rotate the rear wheels. I made no attempt to simulate ride height since the noise is always there. There's no question as to where the sound is coming from, as I used a stethoscope to isolate it to the tail shaft. I initially thought it might have been the front U-joint, but the stethoscope ruled that out. I hope next week to have time to get under there again and disconnect
  17. This isn't really a new issue, but one that I've had since I bought the car and I want to get to the bottom of it. There's a clicking sound that's coming from under the car. It's not very loud and can only be heard while driving slowly alongside a wall or Jersey barrier with the windows rolled down, or even backing out of the driveway when I'm going slowly enough so that there's no wind or road noise. I got under the car yesterday and had my son turn the rear wheels so that I could see where the noise was coming from. It’s coming from inside the Dynaflow transmission tail shaft near where the
  18. It's all done. A few weeks ago my local body shop removed the rear window and I drove the car home to install new reveal molding clips that mount to the car body. Cleaned up the channel and brought it back to the shop last week for reinstallation of the rear window. I practically ran my well dry hosing down the window to check for leaks, and it's dry as a bone. Money well spent on the body shop labor! I had no choice at the moment but to do an inelegant work-around for the unobtainium reveal molding clips that I asked about in another thread. I had nine clips left that I distribute
  19. NTX: Yes, it looks like I'll have to look for a parts car and also scour tables at flea markets. The rear view of my car promises to be somewhat ugly for the foreseeable future. Rick: Yes, I did try Restoration Specialties. I sent e-mails with photos to two other suppliers in the hope that someone might recognize the clip and help me out. I plan to send out more e-mails as time permits. Just because a part doesn't show up on a website doesn't necessarily mean that the supplier doesn't have it somewhere in inventory. I'm being optimistic.
  20. Chasander: Thanx for the tip, but unfortunately no joy at NAPA. NTX: I have the Buick Illustrations and Parts catalogs, but they were printed in 1972. Perhaps I might be better looking one up from the period as you suggest, because neither of my catalogs shows an image of the clips, and as you probably know the catalogs don't show details for specific years anyway. There's also a bit of confusion with the parts catalog. For my year and body style they show a quantity of 22 of one type of clip, which seems to be the correct number of clips all around the window, but the
  21. I have a set of new clips that mount to the body, but I'm missing the ones that slide into the stainless moldings and engage with the body clips. The car is a 1964 Skylark four door sedan, model 4369 to be precise. I searched high and low for a source of the clips for the molding around my rear window, and I came up dry. OPGI, Year One, Old Buick Parts, 65gs, clipsandfasteners.com, Classic Industries, Cliphouse, Auveco, Fusick, and others to no avail. I'm out of ideas. Does anyone know of other sources I might try? I expect the rear glass to be replaced within the next two weeks and I'd sure l
  22. I'm one ahead of you, John. I already dropped by my local body shop this morning to discuss doing just as you have suggested. I didn't bring the car because the weather here isn't great, but I'll bring it over on Friday so the guy can take a good look at it. In any event, it'll probably be a few weeks until it's all done. Once I get the word that the shop will definitely do the work I'll order a set of clips and then make an appointment. Summer is fast approaching and I don't want any down time with the car.
  23. Since I made my original post I discovered that the clips that held the molding onto the car are not originals, and the replacement clips are somewhat of a hack job. I discovered this when I searched for replacement clips, because one is missing and the molding didn't sit flush with the body. The replacement clips that showed up on the web are nothing at all like the ones on the car, and upon closer inspection I determined that the original clips must have broken off and were replaced with the ones shown here. Only the screws into the body remain where the original clips were. The only origina
  24. Hi All: I'm getting water in the trunk of my '64 Skylark. Fortunately this hasn't been happening very much over the life of the car because the trunk is in near perfect condition. However, I want to fix this ASAP to keep from having to limit my drives to dry weather days, and more importantly to keep from rotting out the trunk and the metal under the package tray. I purposely left the car out in the rain today while I was at work to give it a good soaking, and the water is getting in through the screws that hold the reveal molding clips. Whatever sealant they used at th
  25. I put about 400 miles on the Skylark between yesterday and today. Drove down to Shippensburg, PA, then up to Carlisle to visit a friend and take in the Spring Carlisle event. Not very many Buicks for sale in the corral, but there were a '39 and a '57 that caught my eye. There was also a '78 Regal just like the one I bought new back in the day. It was the first new car I bought. Had fun, despite the rain.
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