Machine Gun

Ruthann, is that you?

Teenagers looked so much older back then, didn't they? 😀

I spent a bunch of time researching wheels yesterday. So many wheels! So little time! It's like reading the menu of a modern New Jersey diner. I can spend an hour paging through the 50-page menu before I finally give up and order a cheeseburger like always. It would be so much easier if there were only a few choices, like back when you could choose eggs and hash browns, burgers, or meat loaf. @JohnD1956 Before I buy anything I plan to search for used OEM wheels. That would be my preference. Loren's chart will be a huge help with that search. @NTX5467 I'm going to keep the 14" tires. My speedometer and odometer are surprisingly accurate with the current setup, so no complaints in that department. I have a set of Uniroyal Tiger Paw blackwall tires that I bought form Tire Rack. I'm very pleased with them. I like plain. No lettering, black sidewalls, no nothing. I do prefer made in the USA, but frankly there's nothing that I found from Wheel VIntiques in my size that I like. @Loren@65GS.com Your chart is very helpful, thank you. FYI, the backspace on my stock steel wheels is 4". I have lots of wiggle room in the wheel wells, but I plan to stay as close to that dimension as possible. @EmTee Your wheel suggestion from American Racing is the top contender so far for both appearance and price. The other contender is this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/opg-s210052/make/buick/model/skylark/submodel/base/year/1964 The Summit Racing wheel has the edge in appearance over the American Racing one, but I'm willing to spend that much more only if I can confirm that the wheel is US-made. Manufacturers and vendors are getting pretty cagey about where their products come from. I'm fortunate to be able to afford US-made products. My motivation comes more from the desire to support US manufacturing than from not wanting to support our economic and political adversaries. Thanx guys for your responses.

I'm done messing with wheel covers and hubcaps. My '64 Skylark came with factory spinner-type wheel covers. Some years ago one escaped around a curve and flew over an embankment, never to be seen again. I bought a replacement, and eventually another one tried to get away but I was able to recapture it. I decided to go with dog dish hubcaps. Surely they'd stay on. Well, no. One left the safety of my wheel and crossed into oncoming traffic and was immediately flattened (served it right). So I bought a replacement. That one decided it would rather live in Colorado than NJ (understandable) and made its getaway just outside of Denver last year. It's time for alloy wheels. My car is fitted with 205/70R14 tires. I want to buy something along the lines of GS-type wheels, but I don't want to spend $500 or more per wheel. There are more aftermarket wheel brands out there than stars in the sky, so choosing a brand and type based solely on price probably isn't the smartest thing to do. I'd appreciate suggestions on brands and types to look for as well as brands and types to avoid. I'd even go used if I could find something within reasonable driving distance of NJ. Suggestions would be appreciated.

I went to a local farm for a car show that was put on to benefit a volunteer fire company. It was their first attempt at this sort of thing and I think it was a success. They had live bands, food and beer trucks, a motorcycle section, and lots and lots of cars. Most of the cars though were hot rods and heavily modified cars, which is why I didn't take more photos. My car is nothing to brag about cosmetically, but I had the hood open just in case someone wanted to see a factory engine compartment. It was a very friendly atmosphere and there was no shortage of people who liked talking cars and bikes. I hope they make it an annual event.

Let's both reconsider...I have until September to request a refund 😀

I mailed in my registration last week. Looking forward to meeting you guys and seeing Buick Gardens.

It's on my calendar, and I will book the hotel as soon as they start accepting reservations. It'll be my first national meet of any car club I belonged to over the years.

One of the worst things I did was to install a temperature gauge in my Skylark. TMI. Useful? For sure. Torturous for OCD types like me? For sure.

Congratulations on the long distance award! Will you be taking the same route home?

Safe travels, guys.

I'm in!

@Loren@65GS.com I think I effectively sealed the leak in the Buick. Time will tell. I bought a gallon of driveway crack filler (the smallest size available) and used a veterinary syringe and needle to put the material where it needed to go. I scraped away the dried sealant where voids were visible, cleaned the area with alcohol, and then sealed it up. I hosed the bejesus out of the area yesterday and not a hint of wet inside the car. My fingers are crossed for the long term. Not pretty, but I don't care as long as it does the job.

Wow, so many of you whom I'd have loved to meet! Even if I had the time to go it would have had to be without the Skylark because of rear axle issues.

Congratulations! Glad you made it there safely. Enjoy the meet. I hope your ride home will be just as enjoyable.

Not yet. I wanted to work on it last week but life got in the way. I really have to work on it this week because the car goes to the shop on Monday for the axle bearings and I want it sealed up before then. I'll keep you posted.

Don't these belong in the "Buick AS Trains" thread?

Never had a problem with parts from NAPA, at least not yet. I've given up on buying most anything from DIY store chains except for stuff that's not critical to keeping the car on the road.

I did the whole of Route 66 in two parts and it's definitely worth doing, but the route that @JohnD1956 is taking just got on my bucket list. Maybe next year in the Skylark if no parts fall off (me, I mean). John, I'm so happy you're making the trip. Love your real-time accounts!

I recently replaced my 2016 Jetta with a 1990 Volvo 740 GL as my daily driver. The VW was a good car, but I'm so not interested in dealing with sophisticated engine management systems any more. Now if I could only get my wife to feel the same way about her car...

Was that US 20 you were driving? Which stretch did you drive to get some of those neat photos? I feel a Summer road trip coming on when I get the Skylark back from the shop.

@EmTee It looks like you nailed it. I rewet the cowl area, this time being very careful not to get any water on the windshield trim. The water flows from the cowl area onto the top of the fender near the corner of the hood, and then down over the heater box where it pools. Thanx for the tip on the HF borescope. I had no idea one could be had for such little coin. I may be able to see under there without one, but in any case it's likely that the inner fender panel will have to come out anyway to seal up the area. Depending on what I find I may simply seal it up instead of removing the whole works and installing a new gasket. The car spent far too much time in the garage this season because of the axle bearings, re-fit of the stock carburetor, and timing cover leaks. She goes to the shop in two weeks for the axle bearings, then it's back on the road. Here's a photo of the leak from inside the car. The last things I need are a smelly carpet and a rotted floor.

Perhaps the Reatta IS the camping gear. Just need to open both windows for the "overhang."

Working on cars ruined the chocolate fountain thing for me.

@EmTee I share yours and Loren's suspicions about the heater box seal. If I eventually have to remove the heater box I'll install a new heater core. @Loren@65GS.com I agree, I see no way for water to get where it's been going unless it's getting in from the engine side of the works. When I did my quick and dirty check the other day I hosed down the windshield and the cowl grille. The only visible water getting inside came from the heater box. However, the next time I give it a look I'll hose down only the cowl grille area to start, thus eliminating the possibility of a breach in the A-pillar windshield seal. Thanx for the suggestion. My hope is that I'll be able to see an obvious crack in the heater box seal in the engine compartment that I'll be able to seal up without taking things apart. On the other hand, I'm not getting any younger and if I have to take out the heater box it's probably better to do it before my body comes up with yet another part to make sore. Question: Did Buick use a tar-like substance to waterproof the heater box area? The heater box perimeter is coated with some gunk that even covers some of the wiring. It has me wondering if a prior owner was in there and slathered up the works.