Machine Gun

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Everything posted by Machine Gun

  1. Update (sort of). I didn't have as much time to diagnose this as I had hoped, but I did manage to find a few minutes to get under the car last week. All I had time to do was disconnect he speedometer cable in order to verify that the cable isn't where the sound is coming from. It makes a click about every quarter turn of the driveshaft. My next steps, which likely won't happen for at least two weeks, will be to remove the speedometer gear from the tail housing and see if perhaps the gear is making the sound. If not, perhaps the governor would be the next place for me to look. After that, who knows? If I can't pinpoint it after that I'll probably just let let it go until I learn to live with it, or until it gets worse or something blows up. It's not very loud and it doesn't seem to be serious, nothing like a bearing or anything like that. I have two other, more pressing things to attend to right now, like a leaking power steering pump shaft bearing and a pretty good oil leak coming from the passenger side of the engine apparently coming from somewhere above the starter. It's always something. Of course if I didn't like complaining and working on old cars I'd have bought a new Buick!
  2. Interesting information, Jim. I didn't find any evidence of welded studs on my car, or where such studs may have been removed and replaced with something else. The screws that you can see along the top portion of the window opening are identical to the ones I found along the sides and bottom of the opening, except that the ones along the bottom still had the body-mounted clips attached. The screws I removed along the top had evidence of sealer on them, so perhaps they had already been replaced once. Regardless, I'm rustproofed, all back together, and dry inside. Thanx for the insight on how things were done at the factory. - Jim
  3. My second Buick was a '78 Regal, but blue with a white vinyl top and the 305 V8. My first was a '50 Special that I drove away for $85.
  4. Brings back memories of the first new car I ever bought, a 1978 Regal.
  5. NTX: The speedometer works well and the needle moves smoothly without bouncing. While that may not entirely eliminate the speedo drive gear, it leads me to believe that the sound is coming from another source. You are correct that the sound may be telegraphing from somewhere front of the tail shaft. I'll have to do a deeper dive over the weekend. John: I will check to see if there's a shift linkage adjustment that may affect the parking pawl, but I doubt that the problem may lie with that. Consider that the sound is present in all gears, and when I checked under the car I had the transmission in Neutral. There would have to be one hell of a linkage mis-adjustment for the parking pawl be be anywhere near being engaged while in Drive or Neutral! Also, the stethoscope detects the sound only at the tail shaft. I held the stethoscope on the end caps of the front U-joint as well as the drive shaft itself while listening for the sound, and there's nothing coming from either of those locations. Of course, until I find the source of the sound I can't completely rule anything out, but based on my initial findings so far I will focus my efforts for the time being on the transmission side of things. As for the rear wheel bearings, I have no idea if they've ever been replaced, but I will give a listen back there as a matter of course. You never know! Thank you both for providing your suggestions. I'll keep you posted. Jim
  6. The click is always there. I mentioned that it's only audible from inside the car when the sound reflects of something only to indicate that it's not very loud. It's audible from under the car while it's on a lift and you rotate the rear wheels. I made no attempt to simulate ride height since the noise is always there. There's no question as to where the sound is coming from, as I used a stethoscope to isolate it to the tail shaft. I initially thought it might have been the front U-joint, but the stethoscope ruled that out. I hope next week to have time to get under there again and disconnect the speedo cable and see what happens. I should have done that while I was under there the first time, but I was running out of time and needed to get somewhere and wanted to take the Buick.
  7. This isn't really a new issue, but one that I've had since I bought the car and I want to get to the bottom of it. There's a clicking sound that's coming from under the car. It's not very loud and can only be heard while driving slowly alongside a wall or Jersey barrier with the windows rolled down, or even backing out of the driveway when I'm going slowly enough so that there's no wind or road noise. I got under the car yesterday and had my son turn the rear wheels so that I could see where the noise was coming from. It’s coming from inside the Dynaflow transmission tail shaft near where the speedometer cable attaches. I ran out of time yesterday and won't likely get back under the car until next week, but I'd like to know if anyone on the forum has experienced something like this. The speedometer works fine, nice and smooth, so I'm thinking that maybe all is well with the gear and cable. There's no perceptible play in the drive shaft where it enters the transmission. I'm not concerned that there's something bad going on in there, but I'd like to know what's going on. Any ideas would be appreciated. Jim
  8. It's all done. A few weeks ago my local body shop removed the rear window and I drove the car home to install new reveal molding clips that mount to the car body. Cleaned up the channel and brought it back to the shop last week for reinstallation of the rear window. I practically ran my well dry hosing down the window to check for leaks, and it's dry as a bone. Money well spent on the body shop labor! I had no choice at the moment but to do an inelegant work-around for the unobtainium reveal molding clips that I asked about in another thread. I had nine clips left that I distributed between the upper and lower molding strips, about half of what came on the car. The molding is back on the car and seems to be quite secure as-is. I'll still be on the lookout for molding clips, but for now it's all good. Thanx to all who offered suggestions.
  9. NTX: Yes, it looks like I'll have to look for a parts car and also scour tables at flea markets. The rear view of my car promises to be somewhat ugly for the foreseeable future. Rick: Yes, I did try Restoration Specialties. I sent e-mails with photos to two other suppliers in the hope that someone might recognize the clip and help me out. I plan to send out more e-mails as time permits. Just because a part doesn't show up on a website doesn't necessarily mean that the supplier doesn't have it somewhere in inventory. I'm being optimistic.
  10. Chasander: Thanx for the tip, but unfortunately no joy at NAPA. NTX: I have the Buick Illustrations and Parts catalogs, but they were printed in 1972. Perhaps I might be better looking one up from the period as you suggest, because neither of my catalogs shows an image of the clips, and as you probably know the catalogs don't show details for specific years anyway. There's also a bit of confusion with the parts catalog. For my year and body style they show a quantity of 22 of one type of clip, which seems to be the correct number of clips all around the window, but the catalog shows only 7 of another type of clip they describe as "upper." There are no additional clips or part numbers listed for the remaining 15 clips. I did a part number search on the qty 22 type clip and that one looks to be the ones that mount to the body. The other part number is 4469127, and the only information that showed up after multiple searches was that the part is discontinued and no replacement part number was given. So, without at least an image I don't even know if that's the part I'm looking for. I've been searching the web for days now, so perhaps I'll have to look for someone who has a parts car. I will also see if I can find someone with an earlier version of the parts catalog in the hope that it will have more useful information in it. In the meantime it looks like I'll be riding around this summer with a dry trunk and an ugly window frame! Thanx for your thoughts and suggestions. - Jim
  11. I have a set of new clips that mount to the body, but I'm missing the ones that slide into the stainless moldings and engage with the body clips. The car is a 1964 Skylark four door sedan, model 4369 to be precise. I searched high and low for a source of the clips for the molding around my rear window, and I came up dry. OPGI, Year One, Old Buick Parts, 65gs, clipsandfasteners.com, Classic Industries, Cliphouse, Auveco, Fusick, and others to no avail. I'm out of ideas. Does anyone know of other sources I might try? I expect the rear glass to be replaced within the next two weeks and I'd sure like to have the molding back on by then. Thanx. - Jim
  12. I'm one ahead of you, John. I already dropped by my local body shop this morning to discuss doing just as you have suggested. I didn't bring the car because the weather here isn't great, but I'll bring it over on Friday so the guy can take a good look at it. In any event, it'll probably be a few weeks until it's all done. Once I get the word that the shop will definitely do the work I'll order a set of clips and then make an appointment. Summer is fast approaching and I don't want any down time with the car.
  13. Since I made my original post I discovered that the clips that held the molding onto the car are not originals, and the replacement clips are somewhat of a hack job. I discovered this when I searched for replacement clips, because one is missing and the molding didn't sit flush with the body. The replacement clips that showed up on the web are nothing at all like the ones on the car, and upon closer inspection I determined that the original clips must have broken off and were replaced with the ones shown here. Only the screws into the body remain where the original clips were. The only original clips that remain are the ones along the bottom of the channel near then trunk lid. When you see how the replacement clips were installed it's pretty obvious why there's water getting into the car. So now I have a new problem: getting the original screws out and then screwing in the new clips. Easier said than done because the windshield is in the way of where a screwdriver needs to go. Obviously the clips were installed at the factory before the windshield was. I considered playing around with it, but on second thought I will be better off taking the car to a glass shop where they can remove and replace the windshield. I'm sure that if I muck with the screws with the windshield in place I'll end up chipping the windshield. Once I get everything done I plan give the channel a coat of POR-15 before sealing it up and reinstalling the molding. Wish me luck. It'll be a PITA to deal with, but much better than having the windshield channel and trunk rot out over time. Thanx for your suggestions, but I'll be taking a different route. I'll post updates.
  14. Hi All: I'm getting water in the trunk of my '64 Skylark. Fortunately this hasn't been happening very much over the life of the car because the trunk is in near perfect condition. However, I want to fix this ASAP to keep from having to limit my drives to dry weather days, and more importantly to keep from rotting out the trunk and the metal under the package tray. I purposely left the car out in the rain today while I was at work to give it a good soaking, and the water is getting in through the screws that hold the reveal molding clips. Whatever sealant they used at the factory is essentially gone, and I need to reseal the screws. I'd appreciate suggestions on how best to reseal them, keeping in mind that whatever I use has to be somewhat pliable since there will be some lateral movement of the screws when I reinstall the molding. Two candidate sealers I'm considering are dum dum and Permatex flowable silicone windshield sealer. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  15. I put about 400 miles on the Skylark between yesterday and today. Drove down to Shippensburg, PA, then up to Carlisle to visit a friend and take in the Spring Carlisle event. Not very many Buicks for sale in the corral, but there were a '39 and a '57 that caught my eye. There was also a '78 Regal just like the one I bought new back in the day. It was the first new car I bought. Had fun, despite the rain.
  16. If you have deep pockets and want something that looks aesthetically identical, this place might have what you're looking for: http://www.vintageautoradio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=54&Itemid=64. But first you need to find a factory radio. Otherwise you can check places like classiccarstereos.com that sell modern radios that don't look original, but fit into the existing dash for most classic carts without modification. I think JohnD suggested the best option, which would be to find a factory original AM/FM radio that should be relatively easy to find for your car. Unfortunately I don't have that option since as far as I can tell Buick didn't offer a factory AM/FM radio for the Skylark in '64, and radios from the larger Buicks of the day won't fit in my dash opening. I use an FM converter in my '64 Skylark. They were a popular accessory back in the '60s and '70s when FM broadcasting came into its own and most cars had AM-only radios. The upsides are that they're relatively cheap if you shop around (got mine on eBay for $15.00) and work well enough if there's good FM reception in your area. Downsides include analog tuning, not-so-great audio fidelity, lack of stereo, and having to hang something under the dash. I used FM converters in my cars in the early '70s, so I'm accustomed to the trade-offs and can live with them. Considering that FM converters were an accessory back in the day you could consider them more "original" than a modern radio that simply fits in the dash, yet looks nothing like a radio of the day and requires you to add a bunch of speakers to your car. Whatever you do, good luck and have fun with it. You have a lot of options.
  17. Nothing very exciting, but I took the '64 Skylark out for a road test on Saturday when I put it back together after changing out a leaking timing cover gasket. First time on the road since November when I discovered the leak after returning from a car show. I'm ready for Spring to start feeling like Spring out here in NJ.
  18. Got it John, thanx. I hope to have it all back together and ready for the road in a couple of weeks. Now that it's all apart I have to clean everything up, pick up some bolts and get everything back on the engine. Not a very big job, but I'm only going to have an hour here and there to work on it.
  19. Thanx EmTee. I didn't realize that the long bolts in the block were open to the coolant passage. I get it now.
  20. JohnD: I had planned to use anti-seize on along the length of the bolts and also on the threads, but would you please explain the purpose of the thread sealer? I've never used it before and I'm not sure why you recommended it. Thanx, Jim
  21. I sure will, Bill. I have a supply of anti-seize that I use for my motorcycle spark plugs, O2 sensors and various other things on the family cars.
  22. Thanx for the tip, Tin. I have a set of those, around here we call them easy-outs. I hope not to need them since most of the bolt remains sticking out of the block and I'll be able to use my stud extractor on it. That process should go fairly quickly, since I'll be able to use the oxy-acetylene torch to heat things up without worrying about ruining the aluminum case. You probably know this already, but you live in a very beautiful part of the world. I was in the City of Vancouver back in '77. Loved Gastown. Didn't make to the island, though.
  23. Success! The cover came off without damage. Repeated cycles of heat, ATF/solvent, a drill, and pressure via a harmonic balancer pulley placed in between the block and the water pump mounting boss did the trick. After several cycles of heat and ATF over the course of several days I managed to get the timing cover to start wiggling, and that was encouraging. I hit a snag though, when continued efforts over the course of two more days failed to get the cover to budge beyond the wiggle stage. I noticed that what little movement there was could be seen where the cover meets the block, and the end of the bolt by the water pump showed no movement at all. I figured that was where the problem was, so I decided to drill out the bolt. I didn't want to chance ruining the cover, so I drilled only up to the point where the water pump met the cover. That did the trick. It'll be awhile before I get it all back together. I have to get the stud out of the block, (which should not be as much of a challenge since I can use a hotter torch there if need be), separate the water pump from the case (all of the remaining bolts but one broke off and the pump is stuck to the cover, and then I have to order a new set of bolts. Guys, thank you very much for your suggestions and encouragement.
  24. Yep, gonna take all your advice. I will start tomorrow with the process, and if my work schedule permits I'll treat the cover over the course of next week and hopefully I might get it off undamaged by next weekend. I have an acetylene torch that I'll use to gently heat the area to hopefully move things along. Hotter than propane but not hot enough to easily damage the aluminum like oxy-acetylene would. I agree, patience is the key.