odyssey

Hi Dean - Steve's correct, but it should be a "light" blue haze. When all is right, it is not a cloud. With the oiler set pretty evenly between the 4 feed lines, the oil level in the rear pocket should be the same as the other pockets as there is enough turbulence during running to even things out. The only time this is not the case is when there is not enough oil overall. I have seen pockets run 'low' and uneven when there is simply not enough oil (one usually only sees this after a rod or pistons has already failed!). So - if the feed rates are pretty much the same on each line, then how is the level on the front two pockets? Does the connecting rod just touch the oil surface when hand cranking? Any higher is unnecessary and can contribute to excess leakage, as well as excess smoking. Having said that - I still think one drop every 15 seconds sounds like a big leak. Perhaps it will lessen dramatically if the oil level has been too high and is lowered, but I don't know. A rear main bearing should be tight enough to hold back oil even if the level is high. On my 1910, I had a nasty leak out the rear, making a mess under the car and on the right runningboard & RR fender. It was clear that previous owners had attempted repairs and suffered a messy leak. I pulled the engine and installed a positive rear main seal, only to find the leak had not changed. Eventually I found the leak was out teh rear camshaft bearing - even though it only had a couple thousandths clearance. I was surprised when a positive lip seal solved the problem. It might be possible that the flywheel fan creates a bit of low pressure behind the cam, helping to pull oil out. I would suggest you keep fussing with the oil level and then maybe this winter pull the flywheel and look at the back of the engine. I used dye to positively locate the leak at the cam. tom

I'm slightly familiar with this car as I have seen photos before. It is a Series 11 Tandem Sport body (1925-27) mounted to a 1930 Series 14 chassis. The Tandem Sports were 'Production-Customs', designed by deCausse. I am not sure where the bodies were built. The body conversion, coupled with the Packard (1933?) instrument panel suggests a modern-era conversion, as do many non- Franklin items and features such as the bumpers, grill, rear valence(or lack thereof). The Tandem Sports were striking sedans and the marriage to a late chassis should make for a fun driver, but this was not a factory job, or likely a period job. Tom Rasmussen

Hi Dave - This problem has a simple solutuion- we need to approach it methodically to find it. Questions first: How far was the 1st drive of the day - where you brought it back home and it started harder than you thought it should? Once you got it going by popping the clutch, how did it run on the way home? How far was it from the gas station to home? Is the engine still spinning over FAST during no-start? Does it sound faster than when starting cold? Is the ammeter working? if so - Does it show a discharge when you flip the ignition toggle? Does it 'bounce' between some discharge and not as you crank the engine with the ignition toggled on? You say "Battery is spinning, but no ignition" - have you checked for spark? Answers to the above will help zero in. In the meantime, next time it will not start, get some help and pull the center high tension coil wire from the center of the distributor cap and hold it close to ground, then crank and check for actual spark. If you have spark (or not) from the coil into the distributor, we can troubleshoot from there. tom

Wow Mike- that thing is really going to scream- Nice installation on the baffles! Tom Rasmussen

Dave- The battery would probably be the last item on my list if it turned the engine over nicely during the no-start. Popping the clutch worked though..... battery spins engine over like crazy... does it feel like its spinning faster than during a cold start? It sounds like perhaps it is firing, but not well enough to catch. What happens if you try to duplicate this,and when it will not start, let it sit for 20 minutes with the hood open- will it then start? When was the last time the valves were adjusted? How does compression feel on the hand crank? Even? When HOT? Have you ever had an engine (on any car) start when you knew you had a low battery, and the engine cranked slowly, but it finally caught and roared to life? I would not suspect the battery on your car. You might Try some more tests and let us know. Tom

Once things have been modified from factory, it's hard to give help troubleshooting as we don't know what exactly was changed. Originally, there was no fuse on the ignition circuit. If the old pop-out ignition and coil have been replaced with a plain switch and modern coil - could someone have added a fuse? If so, it is a very short run from the ammeter to the switch, so you should be able to see easily if a fuse was added. You can check each point from the ammeter to the distributor points, or do it backward from the points to the ammeter. In this case, since the distributor was being worked on, it feels more likely to be there - I always look at the last place I was messing around 1st! I would check the condition of the points & point gap and clean the contacts themselves. Also, try adding a ground jumper wire from anywhere on the distributor body to the engine base - a bolt or some such (distributor ground problems are common - all Delco Distributor cars should have an external ground wire). As a test, you can use any bit of wire and twist or clamp it down for now. Then, with the key on, and points open, check for power to the distributor with a test light, or meter. If you have power and the points are good, gapped & clean, then check for spark. If the spark is poor, it is possible you could have a coil or condenser problem. But coils don't usually fail so easily without giving a fight. They tend to act up when hot, but then work fine when cold, slowly getting worse. So - when did your car start acting up, in what way was it acting up and what have you done to correct it thus far? Try some things and give a bit more info and we can perhaps zero in a bit more closely. Oh - another tidbit - If the battery in your car is installed properly, the POSITIVE will be grounded, which is backward from the modern world. New coils are made for the modern world. A new coil on a positive ground car should have the ignition switch lead connected to the - (minus) terminal on the coil and the + (plus) terminal run to the distributor. This is not critical, but the coil will put out more voltage if connected properly. Some newer coils, instead of a - (minus), they will say DIST. Keep us posted - Tom Rasmussen

Jeff Hasslen has the 347's for very low cost. Don't buy them from any other source. Tom

The Franklin Automobile Collection at Hickory Corners will sell the Collection’s 1928 Green 12B sedan (VIN X178331L11). The car is located at the museum in Hickory Corners Michigan. It is in nice condition with an older restoration. The engine starts and runs - brakes need work, fuel system needs cleaning. 1st $13,500 takes it or bids/offers will be accepted through September 16, 2013 at which point the car will be sold to the highest offer (that meets a modest reserve) To purchase, place bids or request more information please contact: Phil Weisenbarger 550 S. Main Street Bluffton, OH 45817 philweis@wcoil.com. 419-722-3861. [ATTACH=CONFIG]208809[/ATTACH] Click link for more photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/odyssey.restorations/1928FranklinForSale?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMuCv73h26_crQE&feat=directlink In the event of identical bids, the earliest received will have priority. This 1928 12B is a certified "Full Classic", ready to drive with a little TLC.

The Franklin Automobile Collection at Hickory Corners will sell the Collection’s 1928 Green 12B sedan (VIN X178331L11). The car is located at the museum in Hickory Corners Michigan. It is in nice condition with an older restoration. The engine starts and runs - brakes need work, fuel system needs cleaning. 1st $13,500 takes it or bids/offers will be accepted through September 16, 2013 at which point the car will be sold to the highest offer (that meets a modest reserve) To purchase, place bids or request information please contact: Phil Weisenbarger 550 S. Main Street Bluffton, OH 45817 philweis@wcoil.com. 419-722-3861. [ATTACH=CONFIG]208809[/ATTACH] Click link for more photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/odyssey.restorations/1928FranklinForSale?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCMuCv73h26_crQE&feat=directlink In the event of identical bids, the earliest received will have priority. This 1928 12B is a certified "Full Classic", ready to drive with a little TLC.

I just paced off a 137 Runabout and come up with under 16' with trunk extending beyond the rear bumper. It's closer to 15' without a trunk. Congratulations on the purchase! Tom Rasmussen

Leaving 6:30 tomorrow for the 20+ hr drive. Got the engine back together, ran it just enough to load. I'll have to clean it and tune it Monday. How about 2 franklins in one trailer!

Sorry we'll miss you Dick. Steve- I look forward as well. It will be good to see you and everybody. Tomorrow I hope to finish a cracked cylinder repair on the '13, then drag it 1,250 miles to the trek! I last brought it more than 25 years ago...hard to believe. I found tonight I have the wrong rings for the cylinder- dang. It's been like this each step. Down to the wire, I have to load tomorrow night. See you soon! Tom

Following up on rings- for original pistons with good ring grooves, try Otto Gas Engine Works. OTTO GAS ENGINE WORKS I believe they can supply correct, shallow groove rings. Tom

Hi Richar - Making the grooves deeper is not too difficult- a face plate and a draw bar, grabbing hold of the wrist pin is how we've done it. But if the groove widths are worn, they should be repaired with a groove insert. I'm not sure these are readily available today. Try Hastings rings in Michigan if you need to repair the groove widths. When installing pistons (and removing) be sure to use a bar, drift or punch through the center of the wrist pin to counteract the twisting torque from your ratchet whil tightening(or loosening) that wrist pin pinch bolt. The aluminum rods can twist (much more easily on ser 10 and 11 rods) and twist is not good... Tom

Give Egge a call- 800-866-3443 I like to deal with Jim. Egge has cut way back on manufacturing larger bore castings and have been supplying Arias forged pistons when they do not have stock of their cast pistons. I have installed two sets of Arias pistons in Model 10's and they perform very well. Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc.

I may have a ring and pinion, possibly other parts if you'd like to give me a call 763-786-1518 Tom

It's fussy work, but the top half of the panel has to come off, maybe more. Unfold the trim and pull the tacks. There is no panel board behind, as on later cars. Oftentimes the toughest part is getting the window crank off 1st. They tend to corrode in place on the Series 10. If you are careful, you can get the cloth down without damage. You may have to glue the fold of the edging trim back down after reinstallation. Tom

Aha! thanks for the info Tom

Are you sure the 130 parking lamp had reflectors? I'm not sure the 135/137 Ryan parking lamp did. Tom

Hey Herman! Still doing some of the best Babbitt work in the country? I should come see you again soon. tom

Steve's right - they were chrome originally. Are you referring to the trim on the splash aprons? They were chrome plated zinc originally and are often beat up. They're pretty simple to make from 1/2 round brass - shape the points on the ends and drill and tap the backsides for small screws. Then you can chrome plate and they'll be indistinguishable from original. Do you have good ones to copy? Tom

Looking for a ratchet segment for a 1932. Was 1932 the only year for this style? All models? Our application is a 906 Any help would be greatly appreciated! Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. Mpls, MN 763-786-1518

I will dig to see if I have a set, but I think I gave away my only set. Someone's got some. Otherwise, simple to make. I'll look. I sure wish I could join you in Nova Scotia! I just got a 9B V-windshield. I can't stay out of it, it's so nice to drive! Tom

There are supposed to be chrome plated 'buttons' here, threaded, nuts on the underside. These buttons rested against each other with the hood open and folded over to eliminate paint damage. Tom

We've installed a number of sets. Oftentimes a steel support is needed under the floor. it can be tricky now and then, but usually they can be installed so tat they can be tucked under the set when so desired. I buy them from a Texas company called Ssnake Oyl. Ssnake Oyl Products They specialize in seat belts and have a couple dozen colors and simple, non-obtrusive buckles. I have them for passengers in most of my cars. Tom