odyssey

The chain will not fall inside - it is wrapped around the crankshaft starter drive sprocket. It's not a bad job. The master link has a tiny cotter pin - pull this and the link may be pulled apart. There is plenty of room to work here. Let me know if you run into trouble - Tom odyrestorations@aol.com

PHOTOS MAY BE SEEN AT: http://picasaweb.google.com/odyssey.restorations/1931Buick95Geiranger7PassTouringFORSALE#

PHOTOS MAY BE SEEN AT http://picasaweb.google.com/odyssey.restorations/1931Buick95Geiranger7PassTouringFORSALE#

Hi Art - You will need to pull the front engine timing gear case cover in order to remove the Starter - Generator. It is bolted to the crankcase from inside this cover. Loosen bolts holding the rear bracket to the tail of the Dyneto, the mounting bolts inside teh timing gear case that bolt directly to the Dyneto and loosen side bolt that maintains chain drive adjustment. Slide unit toward engine to slacken chain and then remove chain by disconnecting the master link. Watch for shims under the rear mount and take care to replace them. Tom Rasmussen

One of the famed Norway Buicks. Bought new by the Hotel Utsigten in Geiranger Norway, used to ferry tourists from the fjord landings to the mountain hotels. Only a handful of these Norway Buicks exist outside of Norway and this is likely the only unrestored example in existence. Extensive research, photos, history accompanies the car, along with complete, extra fully restored drivetrain. Price $65,000 Photos at 1931 Buick for sale - Odyssey Retorations, Inc. Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. odyrestorations@aol.com 763-786-1518 Minneapolis,Minnesota

One of the famed Norway Buicks. Bought new by the Hotel Utsigten in Geiranger Norway, used to ferry tourists from the fjord landings to the mountain hotels. Only a handful of these Norway Buicks exist outside of Norway and this is likely the only unrestored example in existence. Extensive research, photos, history accompanies the car, along with complete, extra fully restored drivetrain. Price $65,000 Photos at 1931 Buick for sale - Odyssey Retorations, Inc. Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. odyrestorations@aol.com 763-786-1518 Minneapolis,Minnesota

Thanks Leif - but the leak is forwad of that seal. We have no leak at the torque ball, no leakage into the torque tube, because this seal AG is good. The housing - BC - is filling up and leaking out the speedometer cable at - J - and other areas of this housing. It's filling up with fluid. It seems it should have a drain to flow back to the main transmission. Does it? Perhaps the last guy hand cut a gasket and did not open a drain-back hole? Anyone know someone who has rebuilt a lot of dynaflows? Tom Rasmussen

I've searched the past discussions - have a more specific leak question. Our '49 Roadmaster dynaflow leaks out the rear bearing retainer housing. Fluid builds up back here and leaks out the speedometer drive, also the upper housing bolts. We miraculously managed to stop all this fluid from flowing down the torque tube and also the torque ball, now it just fills up the entire rear housing. I have no knowledge of what work has been done on this Dynaflow. Is there supposed to be a drainback feature from this housing back into the main transmission body, or is there supposed to be a seal to keep fluid from getting into this rear housing? We also experience the once-in-a-while 'dump' of a quart or more fluid onto the floor - can happen any time. Perhaps this is the torque converter draining for some reason. I will feel a lot better if we can solve the rear bearing retainer housing problem. Any ideas? Tom Ramsussen

Hey Rod - I understand a Lake Place is pretty nice to have, but remember; you can vacation in your Franklins, but you can't drive your lake place! You need to find that "something" to sell. tom

I am going to agree with David on this one. Vacuum tanks work very well once the bronze valve seat is locked into place and everything is properly sealed (and clean). Adding internal switching still utilizes the gravity from the vacuum tank to carb, accomplishing nothing toawrd reducing vapor lock, so why add potentially troublesome hardware? Vapor pressure has been rising dramatically again - close to mid 1980's levels, when many of us experienced terrible vapor lock issues. So - Run the original vacuum tank - it is an excellent system. If vapor lock becomes a serious issue, there are steps you can take to reduce problems before resorting to major hardware changes. Simple is best. OEM was good. Start there and make sure all is right before deciding to modify. Then make small, careful steps if this becomes necessary. Just my $.02 tom

I answered my own question - with some help from Walter Pfeiffer and Curt Schulze. The nut had come loose that holds the wheel in place. The nut was also charged with holding fast the threaded drum that the horn button excutcheon screws onto. With a loose steering wheel nut, all innards were free to spin with no unthreading going on. We had to drill out the horn button to get access to the steering wheel nut and then all could come apart. Now I need a horn button..... Tom Rasmussen

1932 8 - how is the horn button and surround removed? There is no 'rod' through the column, no controls on the column other than the horn button. Someone told me the horn button bezel unscrews, but on this car it spins freely - not threaded. There is no clip, clamp, lock or other at the base of the column. Any help? Thanks - Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. Mpls, MN 763-786-1518 odyrestorations@aol.com www.odysseyrestorations.com

With Ernie out of stock, we are having Egge make a set for us. We approved their drawing for the SV last week and have a sample DV valve of theirs in hand. Quality is fine, the thread is good and concentricity is dead on. Stem size is standard, which we specified since we machined new guides for this engine. If you want a set with standard stems, call Jim at Egge, they should be available before mid-January. Tom Rasmussen

Thanks Chris. I will follow up. Tom Rasmussen

Does anybody know if anything has happend to Gerald at L & L in Missouri? He has not returned calls for several weeks and their email bounces back. I have not bought from him for a year or more, but need runningboard trim for a '32 Franklin. Thanks Tom Rasmussen odyrestorations@aol.com

Thanks - the Model T joint was the one. Turns out my car had been modified to use the T joint in the past. I will continue with it until I can fabricate a proper Franklin joint. Tom Rasmussen

Have you talked to Roy Bernick in St. Cloud, MN? Roy has made these before, is in the middle of another run. 320-333-0004 Tom Rasmussen

Well, answering my own post... We made the plugs out of Delrin. We used cores from Bosck DR magneto plugs, purchased from Cole ignition. It was fairly simple.

Dan - The stutz is a 1932 SV16 and a 1934 SV16. Both are in need of a lot of parts. You can call Frankford plating at 215-288-4518. If you decide to use them, talk to John jr. and be sure you work out a delivery date with him. Then contact him every few weeks as the date approaches. This is a good technique for any plating shop, or sublet contractor. Good Luck - Tom Rasmussen

One of the most important things that people miss when nickel plating on a car of this vintage is the fact that today's nickels have far more brighteners in them than were used originally. Brighteners do two things - they make it come out of the plating tanks nice and shiny, and they change the color to a bit more yellow, while adding brittlness. The brittle aspect is o.k. for most folks, but comes into play when plating trim that needs to flex for some reason, like an instrument bezel with a crimped lip, or an engine line that needs to be shaped a bit. Original nickel finishes were, what we today call, Sulfamate or Watts nickel. They are softer, a bit less yellow and come out of the tanks dull and gray, They require polising after plating, which gives them a rich, yet slightly softer appearance over teh harsh modern bright nickel. They also tend to hold up better, are easier to polish after tarnishing and look far more authentic. I greatly prefer the beautiful soft, elegant look of original nickel and also the ease of upkeep. There are few platers that use it. I use Frankford Plating in Philadelphia. I am currently also restoring a Stutz and will use sulfamate nickel on all parts originally nickeled. It really looks great and is worth the effort to find on a great car like your Stutz. Tom Rasmussen

Looking for plugs for the distributor cap for Series 9 Atwater Kent caps. We have two cars to bring to teh Trek, but we need these plugs. Any leads? Tom Rasmussen 766-786-1518 Odyrestorations@aol.com

Looking for a universal joint that fits a 13/16" square drive. I am trying to replace a repalcment joint on a 1907 Franklin - original Frnaklin joint long gone, this square drive joint looks like somethign from a PTO on an old tractor, perhaps. Any leads on where to look? Tom Rasmussen