Franklin31

Members
  • Content Count

    128
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Franklin31

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    email: rdryman1@triad.rr.com
  • MSN
    Name>> RICHARD DRYMAN HH FRANKLIN CLUB
  • Website URL
    https://goo.gl/photos/wzbSaLsr5VuFEU2NA
  • Yahoo
    Richard Dryman on FACEBOOK; using messenger
  • Skype
    Send TEXT on 336-706-1154

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Greensboro NC
  • Interests:
    220+ Franklin work photos on my website above

Converted

  • Biography
    Working on the engine of the Franklin

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Paul, back in 2005 you go thru the separation of the lighting wires ('30-'31) into 2 different feeds, removing the 'jumper' switch wire, re-fusing, etc. In that regard, have you made sectional elec. schematics of recommended changes, etc. The manual's schematic really gets fuzzy between the steering col., dash, and junction box and is hard to figure out even before changing, multi-fusing, etc. Anyway, If you happen to have jpgs of these that would post, believe it would be helpful since I am planning to do the electrical modifications very very soon. Have become alarmed--lol !! Tks.
  2. Located similar fuse holder on Amazon if there is interest. >> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IV3GAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  3. Update on Ox-Gard: @ WalMart online for $13. for 4 oz tube with free shipping; Amazon $11.25 for 8oz. Also info for circuit separation on non-original wiring harnesses: go to Moss Motors. com and select #161-600 for a double female connector; #162-000 for a single female connector, and #162-200 for solder reqd. male connectors that plug into the female connectors. i.e.: on 151 headlights you use 3-#162-000 double connectors for wires w/162-200 coming from cowl , then the R & L headlight wires will connect from the #1,#2, #3 bulb circuits into these connectors {2 circuits into 1 X 3}. These separators' will be @ frame rail next to ft. left fender and grill. You can troubleshoot, etc. by using these disconnects in various circuits just as you would use fuses. These are the most heavy duty and best I have seen or used----NO plastic to cover with shrink tubing, but you might want to use it at the solder male connectors. Also best to use inline fuses with blade mini-fuses adjacent to these unless you are using a multiple fuse system, then you can locate them without trouble-- hopefully--don't ask. Look at these if you are interested.
  4. Perhaps you and an expert could 'talk' using smartphones. You can use Facebook messaging with video on. You can have someone hold the phone and you can move something while the expert watches you and instructs you what to do. You and he are talking to each other while he is watching what you do and observes the results. You are using the front camera on your phone (best not the selfie). These phones are excellent for that kind of thing. Even you go to the grocery and your wife is instructing you( by seeing) which of 4 different boxes of an item to bring home so that you wouldn't have to return a box !!! An excellent long distance diagnostic tool ~~~ Richard Dryman ps--don't give up without trying that {but not with me; I am not an expert}~~~good luck !
  5. HAVE USED THIS PRODUCT AND IT IS GREAT. USED ON 1953 Hudson 4speed AND 1997 Ford F150. Corrected shifts on Hudson and fixed slipping on truck. But I suppose varnish must be the ptobkem. I leave 1/3 of can in the transmissions.
  6. Richard, I also need 2 when you find !!
  7. This is a complete assy for the 153 Franklin as shown in the attached 11 photos. Includes the mascot shown, vanes, grill, screen,and hood props as shown. Will certainly need plated for show; or Eastwood Chrome painting for driven. Note the crank hole cover is not available. This is NOT for a 151 (which is the reason I bought it for--not knowing). The crank hole is 9" up from the bottom which is the correct distance for the 153. EDIT>> THIS GRILL WAS SOLD TO WALTER MILLER JUST BEFORE HE DIED !!!
  8. Needing the rear metal edges that are on top of Trunk: Pt#s 55248-RT &55249-LT; These are curved and 8.75" long & 7/8" wide on the top side. email at: AACArdryman1@triad.rr.com {drop AACA} located>>Greensboro,NC The pieces needed are the ones that are missing in the photos(Both sides front top needed). tks-Richard Dryman total of 2 pieces edit: last photo shows the trunk on the 153 for sale here with the front top pieces. Also need the middle fasteners & end metal fasteners shown.
  9. Here is my '31 Victoria that I have been messing with: 228 photos.CLICK ON LINK BELOW. Click on each one and on the 'i' in a circle at top to get comments on each photo. Have just started back working on this. Bought a 53 Hudson Hornet that I have been messing with for 2 years--good to be back on the Franklin. Not sure which link might work? https://goo.gl/photos/wzbSaLsr5VuFEU2NA >>> https://get.google.com/albumarchive/101895503406236284856/album/AF1QipN7hOGGA1i7tu7_dylgGpqyGy22qZmZ5nvfmFSa?authKey Below is engine startup after 2 idle years> Richard D Greensboro, NC
  10. URL:>>>> http://forums.aaca.org/f230/franklin-speedster-build-352341.html
  11. just found that Master-Carr has the bumper bolt split washers listed under 316 SS within .005 of the original size: 0.5625ID-0.968OD; will have order the 25 min.; let me know if you want any @ my unit cost {you will not find these at the hdwr. store } >> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=q82gyn
  12. Bolt dimensions & thread on my 1931 (151) Vic is the same as above. The 4 on back (bumperetts) are with stainless caps; the 2 on the front have a head that is more domed and appears that is a chrome plated bolt w/o the stainless cap(have not taken the front ones off yet). Photo is of one of the rears; the dark nut is original; the bright nut is a pal nut; reg. nuts are too thick; the lock washer is orig. and these narrow ones are hard to find--haven't located yet. Slot in end of bolt made with Dremel tool for screwdriver.
  13. I have all 4 out of the rear of my 151, will measure and see & advise if it is the same. Note: use a Dremel with the thicker cut disk( about 1/16") to cut a screwdriver slot in the bottom of the bolt; keeps bolt from turning and keeps from using vice-grips on the stainless head cap; Still had to use acetylene torch and on one I still had to Dremel-off the Nut; even pal nuts are hard to find in NF threads--NC are easy to find; takes a thinner nut. Later~~
  14. You might have meant this 49606: http://www.franklincar.org/tech/drawings/Master%20Drawings/49606%20BUMPER%20BAR%20BOLT.PDF
  15. May interest those building garage or pouring floor, etc.: Shorter exhaust flex system. Installed 2.5" exhausts to outside when building garage; loops under foundation wall; cover pipes outside with mesh.Photo on left shows the 2 plugs in floor. Photo on rt. shows plugs, plug tool, and spare connector pipe {could not immediately locate the correct ones made up} nipple is missing on spare. Anyway, flex connector pipe is extremely short; might give someone an idea.