odyssey

I agree with Dave - If the wheels are tight now, then whether or not you go the natural look with varnish, or the painted & striped spoke look, once the wood is completely sealed, future shrinkage is minimized to a degree. If it's varnish, or DP90 (or other epoxy sealer), brush it liberally at every spot - on the end of the spokes and the joints where the butt together. Some like to use a penetrating sealer such as Rot Doctor that will soak in (although not much on hickory wheel spokes). Kwik-Poly can work well as a sealer too - it sets up much faster than Rot Doctor. On new spokes, I like the regular automotive epoxy primers. I over-reduce a bit and brush them on liberally. On old spokes, I prefer the penetrating sealers. Great project Dick - I hopeyou enjoy sanding! tom

Does it come out past the butterfly shaft and bottom vent hole only after you crank the engine to start it and it doesn't start? Or after shutting the engine off when it is not warmed up? Tom

Thanks Dick- good point Tom

There is no spec for pump rod protrusion. We could come up with a 'new' spec but it would steer us the wrong way. Because: The gasket thickness varies, the pump linkage wear varies, the cam lobe condition may vary, the pump base thickness can vary on the later cars. A very small variation can be the difference. Measure the protrusion with the rod fully retracted Measure the distance from the pump flange to the pump arm after taking up all play- when the diaphragm is just beginning to move Make sure, with gasket, that the rod is long enough. Richard- your numbers are good, but the pump is not pumping. What if you remove the pump gasket? It may be that you need a longer rod. Can you try a pump with less wear? Tom

This was written up for Air Cooled News a few years back. Maybe more than you wanted to know, but... HOW TO CHECK THE LENGTH OF THE FUEL PUMP PUSHROD Another common question arises as to the proper length of the fuel pump actuating pushrod as used on 1929 and later engines. This seemingly simple item is frequently the source of trouble on the road, causing fuel starvation in extreme examples. The problem begins with the fact that the fuel pump pushrod, actuated by an eccentric lobe on the camshaft, has a very short stroke. The AC fuel pump, by comparison, has a longer stroke capability. It also has a very long free-play stroke before the pump linkage actually begins to pump. Over time, the pump linkage wears, free play increases and the actual pump stroke, the part where the pumping happens, lessens. It is quite common that the wear will progress to the point where the pump will have just enough stroke to run the car under normal conditions, but when the crankcase gets hot enough, thermal expansion causes the engine crankcase to grow until the fuel pump pushrod effectively becomes too short to operate the pump. The car shows signs of vapor lock and then stalls. This can be a difficult problem to trace (believe me, I know). A fuel pump pushrod that is long enough to deliver full stroke of the pump is critical. Here is how to check it using a caliper: 1 Remove the fuel pump and gasket 2 Hand crank the engine over until the fuel pump pushrod is determined to be in as far as it will go, on the ‘bottom’ of its stroke. 3 Using the caliper, record how far the pushrod protrudes from the crankcase. 4 Find a suitable means to hold the fuel pump securely (an extra pair of hands helps). Depress the fuel pump pushrod (a screwdriver works well here) to the point where the free play has just been take up. It’s easy to feel, as the resistance will be much greater at the point where the linkage begins to actuate the pump diaphragm. 5 With the linkage at this point, measure the distance from the mounting flange of the fuel pump, down to the tip of the fuel pump linkage arm. This can be a tricky measurement. Try laying a machined piece of steel across the flange and measure from the center of the steel piece, down to the linkage tip. Subtract the thickness of the steel and record the measurement. 6 Measure the thickness of the gasket under the fuel pump, and add to the fuel pump linkage measurement. 7 Compare the linkage measurement, with gasket, to the pushrod protrusion measurement. If you find the pushrod measurement is equal or greater than the fuel pump linkage measurement, then you’re pre-loading the pump to some degree, which insures a good, full stroke out of your pump. You can now pat yourself on the back and be happy and go for a drive. If, however, you find the pushrod measurement is less than the fuel pump linkage measurement (with gasket), then the pushrod is not actuating the pump until part-way through its stroke. This must be corrected, or fuel starvation can result. To correct this situation, we must either lengthen the pushrod, or bring the fuel pump in closer to the crankcase. Installing a thinner gasket will bring the fuel pump in. Measure the old and new gaskets, or run without a gasket (but use some sealer). In cases where the pump cannot be brought in closer by changing or eliminating the gasket, a new pushrod will be required. New pushrods are not too difficult to fabricate. We make them from letter ‘U’ (0.368”) oil hardening (O-1) drill rod, rough cut to length, ends squared in a valve grinding machine. The pushrod is placed in position in the crankcase, on the bottom of its stroke and measured. One end should be precision ground to achieve a pushrod protrusion that is approximately 1/16” greater than the fuel pump linkage measurement, with gasket. The final task is to harden the ends of the new pushrod by heating the ends to a dull red and quenching in oil. (Note that the 0.368” letter ‘U’ stock is a couple thousandths smaller than the original pushrod. Using the letter ‘U’ stock makes the job possible without centerless grinding and the extra clearance does no harm on this part.) Pushrod length was 8.0" for 1929 - 1931 engines, and roughly 8-1/8" for 1933-34 engines. But bear in mind that the stock length may be too short due to pump wear! Jeff Hasslen’s roadside fuel pump pushrod repair trick is legendary in the Midwest region as it has brought more than one ailing Franklin home. It involves fabricating a shim from a tin can, or soda can. Fashioning the shim into a cup shape, it can be placed over the protruding end of the pushrod, thus giving a bit of extra stroke to the fuel pump. This is frequently all that is needed to ‘get home’, but is certainly a very short-lived repair. Tom Rasmussen 2001

I was told the minimum run was prohibitive in price, but no definition of that price. Tom

Hmmm. The rings look scored on #6 in the photo - can you feel scoring on them? Can you tell from piston tops if one cylinder has been smoking worse than others by the amount of carbon on the head, spark plug and cylinder ports? 0.038 gap is too much. You might need to check all the ring gaps, especially the oil ring gaps. If you have wide gaps and scored rings, I would expect smoking to be possible. Such a wide ring gap might also be from someone installing a smaller ring in a larger bore. At 3-1/4" bore, a ring 0.010 small would have a gap 0.030 bigger. And the wrong sized ring does not fit a bore with even tension, causing additional ring problems. Maybe measuring all rings would be a good idea. Then pistons and bore sizes would help you determine what options you have. Tom

Hi Rick - Your numbers don't quite add up comparing your current piston measurements to the cylinder measurements. Maybe I mixed up 1, 5 and 6. Can you try again? Best way to check ring gap is to insert the ring into the bore, square it up with a piston and measure the gap. ~0.110" would not be good at all - I'm sure they are tighter than that. You mentioned smoking, but not what kind of smoke and under what circumstances? tom

Hi Rick - Measure the pistons at the bottom of the skirt on the high-point of the cam, perpendicular to the pin. I can't see the skirt design on the thrust side - does it have a full slot that goes all the way down through the skirt, or does the slot end at a round hole (called a T-Slot)? Also, once you find the high-point of the piston, at the bottom of the skirt, measure up, along the high spot on the cam, to just under the oil ring groove. This taper is important when calculating proper clearance for any piston design. 0.018" for a ring gap is o.k., just not less than 0.015 for the top ring, a bit less for the 2nd is o.k. I never like them too wide, but many feel wider is no issue until you get WAY wide. They do carbon up eventually. Too tight and you would have known it as they would have stuck already. A chewed up throwout nut is fairly common from mechanics not having the proper tool to remove it. You leave that nut in place to remove the clutch. The clutch will come off by simply removing the cover bolts - there is not a ton of tension. You can pull two bolts and insert two longer ones to help. The locking pin is for adjusting the clutch - leave it and the adjustment in place so you don't have to re-adjust if you re-use the pressure plate. Tom

Keep us posted Rick. Let me know if I can help - I've done a few of these.... They are beautifully designed and constructed and are great runners. Tom Rasmussen

Hi Gordon - Yes, it seems there could be a rubberized belting that could work and perhaps that is the best place to look. Jeff has a contact (his dad's old conveyor business) and said he could look into it. I always prefer a stock appearance, yet in the end function is more critical. I'll get a sample of the MC webbing... Happy Thanksgiving! Tom

I have been asked several times recently for a source for the 1-1/2" wide x 3/16" cotton webbing for the Stabilators. Restoration Supply had it, but can no longer get it. Anybody run across a source? I wonder if one could sew together 2 layers of 3/32" heavy-duty cotton webbing from McMaster Carr. www.mcmastercarr.com part #3531T52? any thoughts...? Tom

I've never seen one Steve, but I don't doubt there is one out there. It's very lucky the drawing survives as so often the drawing I'm really hoping to find is not there. That's a great one!I have wasted (?) many dozens of hours engrossed in the drawing file. The card catalog also holds many interesting discoveries. TomPs- we finished that project...

It's a 1928-29 Franklin oil pump similar in design to the industry's 1st full pressure recirculating oil pump by Franklin in 1912

1929 Cord L29 Brougham. Early car, body #28 of the 1st batch of Broughams Unrestored original car, recently purchased from 2nd owner since 1934. Chassis completely disassembled for repairs, body intact, paint is useable, in fair condition. Interior intact, in fair condition with tears. Some interior die cast handles broken - all need replacement Significant repair/restoration work completed and new parts purchased including Wiring Harness, 6 Firestone blackwall tires, Shock absorber restoration, chassis frame repairs in preparation for mechanical restoration. Engine, front end apart, transaxle assembled. Missing rear apron - otherwise this is a complete car including original tire locks, lighters, etc. $45,000 Odyssey Restorations, Inc. odyrestorations@aol.com Link to photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/odyssey.restorations/BernickL29CordAd?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLmW-fmY-MujLQ&feat=directlink _________________ Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. 8080 Central Ave. NE Mpls, MN 763-786-1518

1929 Cord L29 Brougham. Early car, body #28 of the 1st batch of Broughams Unrestored original car, recently purchased from 2nd owner since 1934. Chassis completely disassembled for repairs, body intact, paint is useable, in fair condition. Interior intact, in fair condition with tears. Some interior die cast handles broken - all need replacement Significant repair/restoration work completed and new parts purchased including Wiring Harness, 6 Firestone blackwall tires, Shock absorber restoration, chassis frame repairs in preparation for mechanical restoration. Engine, front end apart, transaxle assembled. Missing rear apron - otherwise this is a complete car including original tire locks, lighters, etc. $45,000 Odyssey Restorations, Inc. odyrestorations@aol.com Link to photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/odyssey.restorations/BernickL29CordAd?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLmW-fmY-MujLQ&feat=directlink _________________ Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. 8080 Central Ave. NE Mpls, MN 763-786-1518

I realize most steering boxes are worn at the sector shaft and also the bottom where the horn/lighting rod on many cars protrudes and it is very difficult to keep gear oil of any viscosity in the box under these conditions, but I caution against Penrite because of the viscosity. I have tried it in a couple of leaky boxes - both worm & nut boxes (1913 Hudson and PI Rolls Royce) and found that it made the steering so heavy that I drained it (no easy task!) The best is gear lube that will not channel under pressure like grease. New seals and a rebuilt pitman/sector shaft & bushings is the way to go and not so difficult to accomplish. FOr a leaky box, Penrite is worth a try, but it is very hard to remove of you don't like it!

Mike- private message sent Tom Rasmussen

Restoration Supply Company has this rubber, made for the IHC. Tom Rasmussen

Good thought John. I can check the newly-available drawing file to see if any later bolts might have te same dimensions. Tom

Thanks Mike. The Amish axle bolts are great and fit the front axle of a cross engine Franklin great but are too small for a bigger brass car. I think I am going to have to cast them but am open to alternatives. Tom Rasmussen

Franklin introduced the lion hood ornament as special equipment for the 1924 Series 10-B and as standard on the 10-C through late 1925. This ornament was die-cast from white metal and polished. The flat-based lion was introduced on the Series 11 in 1925. It is a different design - same pose, but different. These lions were cast from nickel silver and polished. These early lions carry the scuplter's name on the back of the base "1924 DERUJINSKI" . The underside is stamped "STERLING BRONZE CO NEW YORK In early 1927 and into 1928, the lions were cast in bronze and nickel plated. All the Series 11 and Series 12 lions had the raised arm cast and attached separately. In the autumn of 1928, Franklin introduced an updated version of the current Series 12 Airman model and called it the Series 12-B Airman Limited. Numerous fairly minor mechanical and cosmetic changes were made to this new model. One was the elimination of the Lion ornament, substituted by the flat-cap that mimicked the lion base, as shown above in the previous post. These caps were cast in bronze and nickel plated - factory drawing #38656. There is no credit given to Sterling Bronze company, so I am not sure where they were cast. Plain caps were sold to some owners of the early 1928 cars who wanted the updated look. After all, the deCausse design, although arguably still fresh, was three years old. Perhaps some owners of the 1925 - 1928 cars 'sawed off' their lions to look like the new model. I do not recall hearing that Franklin discontinued use due to royalty issues with DERUJINSKI, but perhaps it is true. Another explanation may be the fact thet chief body stylist J. Frank de Causse had died suddenly in early 1928 and Ray Dietrich was hired to make updates to the Series 12, turning it into the 12-B. It may have been Dietrich's way to clean up the deCausse design somewhat and put his stamp on it. Dietrich designed all further standard hood ornaments for Franklin through 1934. Since the stock market crash was over a year into the future and the economy was buzzing, it does not seem likely that Franklin would discontinue the lion for cost-cutting reasons. Sales were climbing rapidly at the time. There is a great story (true) of a Syracuse, NY resident discovering a 'cask of lions' in his/her attic and bringing them to the nearby Franklin meet in the 1970's. The cask was donated to the Club and approx 50 brand new factory lions, wrapped in 1927 newspaper were sold at $50 each! Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc.

Does anyone know a source for spring U-Bolts?* These are for a 1-3/4" wide spring, and have a 7/16 thread, originally forged. (trying to figure out how to post a photo from my phone!) There are so many variations, so it does not surprise me* that there is not a supply Uof them. Originals are nearly always bad. It's a lot of work to investment cast and machine a few. *These fit in tight quarters so need to be quite accurate dimensionally. * *Any ideas? Tom Rasmussen - for my 1910 Franklin Sent from my iPhone

Thanks Sandy. I should have thought to look in the BCA register. I'll call Paul Monday. Wish I was at Hershey... Tom Rasmussen

We're working on a pretty nice 1933, putting it back into service after sitting for 25 years. The oil temp regulator cover, badly repaired 30 years ago, has rotted beyond repair. Anyone know of a good source? I am not sure if it is the same cover as the 1932 and/or 1934. Thanks - Tom Rasmussen