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odyssey

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Everything posted by odyssey

  1. For Sale: Franklin 1928 12A Sedan to be sold by The Franklin Automobile Collection at Hickory Corners by sealed bid. Hydraulic brakes, deCausse styling, aluminum coachwork, Air-Cooled Full Classic. Older, partial restoration; needs service to run & enjoy. Bids will be opened September 18, 2014 at the Franklin Midwest Meet and are accepted by USPS mail only. There is a reserve. For bidding and information please contact: Phil Weisenbarger 550 S. Main St. Bluffton, OH 45817 419-358-4651 philweis@wcoil.com .
  2. For Sale: Franklin 1928 12A Sedan to be sold by The Franklin Automobile Collection at Hickory Corners by sealed bid. Hydraulic brakes, deCausse styling, aluminum coachwork, Air-Cooled Full Classic. Older, partial restoration; needs service to run & enjoy. Bids will be opened September 18, 2014 at the Franklin Midwest Meet and are accepted by USPS mail only. There is a reserve. For bidding and information please contact: Phil Weisenbarger 550 S. Main St. Bluffton, OH 45817 419-358-4651 philweis@wcoil.com .
  3. For Sale: Franklin 1928 12A Sedan to be sold by The Franklin Automobile Collection at Hickory Corners by sealed bid. Hydraulic brakes, deCausse styling, aluminum coachwork, Air-Cooled Full Classic. Older, partial restoration; needs service to run & enjoy. Bids will be opened September 18, 2014 at the Franklin Midwest Meet and are accepted by USPS mail only. There is a reserve. For bidding and information please contact: Phil Weisenbarger 550 S. Main St. Bluffton, OH 45817 419-358-4651 philweis@wcoil.com .
  4. Looking for a rear spare tire mount nut/lock for a wire wheel car. We have a 328 Roadster and the closest we can come up with is a fuzzy photo. We have the hub, need the plated nut - or locking nut. We would love to purchase a correct part - Or with a borrowed parts or even a a few good photos, we can fabricate one. Any leads?? Thanks! Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. Spring Lake Park, MN 763-786-1518
  5. No, sorry. It was used on roadsters only, as far as we know. tom
  6. 1928 & 1930 Franklin Roadsters (I am not sure about 1929, I have not seen original 1929 Runabout leather) used a pig-skin grained cowhide for all upholstery. We have reproduced this leather, matched from three different cars, all of which had identical pig-skin cowhide and identical color. A minimum run was required to make the custom grain. We are using it on 4 Franklins (1-1928 and 3 1930's) and have enough left for one more car. This is a one-time project. If anyone is interested in 3 LARGE hides, totalling approx 190 Square Feet, they are available for $15/square foot, plus shipping. (Leather could be delivered to the Trek) If interested, please contact me. Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. 763-786-1518
  7. Hi Art - The bearing should be available. Check out a 7209 in an annular contact bearing - I think that one is correct. You might even be able to get this in a sealed bearing. Try your local bearing house. By removing the flex discs and the center flange spider, you can then remove the clutch cover assembly. I don't beleive you can remove the front shaft without pulling the clutch cover. No need to move the transmission. I'm not sure you could disassemble the throwout collar to access the bearing without pulling the clutch cover anyway. Let me know if you get stuck.... Tom Rasmussen
  8. I reached Eric, Bob Kern's restorer and Eric said he knew nothing of this car. Tom
  9. On the series 12 and 130 pans, if removing the flywheel guard does not give enough room, you can jack up the frame and let the front axle hang free. This gives enough room. tom
  10. Bob Kern bought it (from Arnie?) and harvested parts for his 1931, also from Arnie. Bob then decided to restore the 1932 and subsequently sold it. Photo was taken during Bob's ownership, I think. Bill - I am trying to reach Bob's restorer re colors used- no luck so far tom
  11. Koops are for chickens - eh, John? tom
  12. Good theory, but then would one not expect to find near equal problems on all cylinders? It could be a yet-to-be-discovered problem.... tom
  13. Please be aware that the car being advertised by Mark Hyman in St. Louis is a sport coupe and NOT a Sport Runabout.
  14. You will want to measure both carefully to determine if they will work satisfactorily. Excessive clearance leads to skirt failure on original parts. Badly worn ring grooves can at worst cause failures similar to what happened to #5. It would be nice if they work out. Tom
  15. Hi WIlliam - Lots of good suggestions above for you. I will support them in saying you will need accurate measurements of existing parts to know what is going on and what options you have. Once you understand what is going on with #5 and #6, you may well want to measure the other cylinders & pistons. Pistons must be measured with a micrometer on the skirt, perpendicular to the wrist pin. Measure along this 'ridge', at the bottom of the skirt, middle and top of the skirt, jsut below the oil ring groove. The biggest reading is the number you want to record. Cylinders must also be measured with a micrometer as they wear both oval and tapered. Measurement must be taken along the same axis as the measurement on the piston - meaning perpendicular to the pin and from the bottom to the top of the cylinder, jsut below the ring ridge. It will be tapered - growing larger in size as you go 'up'. Record this taper. The smallest reading in the cylinder, less the biggest point on the piston skirt is your piston clearance. Get these numbers and let us know. If you plan to put this car into service and drive it, you really will want to know the engine is in good condition. You indicate it looks like the engine was rebuilt. The clean rods suggest so. Factory pistons suggest it was done a long time ago, or at least with NORS parts. But you don't know who did it, or why #5 failed. So it might be a very good idea to check the rest of the engine, as Rob suggested. Franklin parts are out there, but not as plentiful as other makes and when things go bad, they can damage other parts, as well as interfere with our enjoyment of the car! If the engine shows little wear and parts/clearances & workmanship are good - you can replace the one piston and either repair, or replace the cylinder. A used FRANKLIN piston that is in overall good condition is perfecetly acceptable to use (but realize that they are not easy to find in good condition - especially a factory oversized piston. Ring groove wear is the biggest problem with used pistons. Groove wear can be repaired, and it can make sense to do so on one piston). New parts are available if that's the route that makes sense. Rob's suggestion to check the rod bearings is a very good one. It might also be a very good time to check the valves/guides since you have two jugs off. Keep us posted and feel free to contact me directly if I can help, or if you have a local shop help you, they can call me with questions any time as well. Tom Rasmussen 763-786-1518
  16. The following lead was sent to me: My name is John Steele from the Madison Wisconsin arera. I am contacting you today to see if you may have an interest in this 1930 Franklin coupe.If you do, my phone number is 608-279-7066. thank you sir. JOHN STEELE.
  17. Thanks Rob, I'll let you know. I'll also let you know when I know more about your springs... tom
  18. Looking for two handles to buy, or one to borrow as a pattern. These were used on Series 11 and Series 12 Runabouts & Tourings (and 137 Sport Touring tonneau release handle) Anyone have anything? Thanks! Tom Rasmussen
  19. Have you gotten it off yet? It's not too difficult and there are not really any tricks. If you completely remove the valve core, it helps a little. Once you pry up one end of the ring, you can walk it off the rim. Rust and a very stiff tire are your enemies. When installing the new tube - use talc and fill the new tube with just enough air to give it shape. When you are ready to install the lockring, you can pull the valve core again to relieve all pressure. Once the lockring is seated (must be perfectly seated), then with the valve core still removed, give air to the tire enough to fill things out a bit and make sure everything looks good, let the air back out, replace the core and fill it up. Most will fill the tire from the backside of the wheel - just being mindful that a blown lockring is not something you want to be in the way of! It's almost impossible to install a lockring without scraping the paint off the edges - unless the paint is very fresh and still just a bit soft. Series 9 lockring rim That's the way I do it anyway.... tom
  20. Sorry - I meant to say in for lean out for rich. Tom
  21. Yup. I'll bet you'll get it dialed in! tom
  22. Hi Bill - Most Carter BB-1 carbs have an adjustable main jet. Have you attempted a main jet adjustment? tom
  23. odyssey

    Fine details

    Door sills are made by Don & Mary Anne Kuehn 81 Graham Ave Haledon, NJ 07508 973-423-1196 doorsills@gmail.com Tom
  24. Lisa- good move to dig into the carb. It sounds like it could be a faulty economizer. It is an unusual feature not always understood by carb rebuilders. Paul will certainly let you know if the fault is in the carb. And please follow up with the group. Sharing results helps us all. Good luck! tom
  25. Jeff Hasslen has the ends now and new channel and rubber available soon- he finished the dies a few weeks ago. tom
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