odyssey

Update - Thanks for all the help and good information. The 50 Series heat riser is the same dimensionally externally with the exception of the very top - which is approx 3/8" shorter than the 60 series. All bolt hole locations are exactly the same and the external dimensions of the casting are the same. There is plenty of 'meat' 'to allow for boring out the tubes and installing the correct 60 series tubes (I always replace these tubes anyway, no matter the condition). I have found a good 50 Series unit that I can use, with a 3/8" shim, if we choose. I would prefer a correct look however, even though this is a driver. We have spray-weld repaired these in the past - so thanks Roger - it is a good technique. Our original has already been badly repaired, so this one would require cutting to pieces and reconstructing internally, then welding back together. I would use the 50 with the 3/8 shim before spending what it would take to repair this old one. But.... I have found a correct 60, along with manifolds. I need to gain access to the property and trek into the woods to remove it. 50-50 chance it's also bad, but perhaps a simpler repair then our original. Thanks again for the help! Tom Rasmussen

Thanks for checking. I'm hot on the trail of another.... I can always use the 50 Series heata riser and bore it for larger tubes. Merry Christmas! Tom

Thanks - PM sent. Tom Rasmussen

Use the Sollid Core wire, not resistor core. Spark plugs - it seems the Champion 516 is the most reliable plug to use. Napa will have it. Merry Christmas! tom

Ours is beyond reasonable repair. Anyone have an available extra? I could trade a nice 50 Series for a repairable 60 Series. Thanks - Tom Rasmussen 763-786-1518

The heat riser body on our 1933-60 project is badly broken & rotted and suffering additionally from poor earlier repairs. Does anyone have a better one? I found a 50 Series that I can bore and fit with larger tubes. All dimensions are the same as the 60 except it is shorter, requiring a spacer. I'd much rather have a correct 60 Series part. 1932 and/or 1934 do not work. Anyone with a 1933 60??? Thanks! Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. Spring Lake Park, MN 763-786-1518

The T-3A was the replacement version of the 1929 T3 and was used in Series 14 and 15 cars. T-3A's featured longer teeth for improved durability over the trouble prone T3. Series 14 sport models and some customs were fitted with the Detroit 4-speed. Series 153 Deluxe models were fitted with the Warner T-77 4-speed, which has proven to be a very durable transmission. Thanks agin to Jeff for detail clarification. Tom

I knew I'd get in trouble for a half-baked response (I knew a Little of what I was saying...) Jeff's invaluable response: The Warner T82 heavy duty syncro-mesh transmission was offered by the factory as a replacement for the troublesome T3 unit that the 29 cars came with. See General Letter No. 672 attached. The T82 was only used in standard production on the V12. This transmission has a freewheeling unit, the 29 replacement does not. It is interesting that the 1932 Series 16 as well as the later Airman cars used the smaller but very similar T81 transmission. I have seen several 29 Series 13 cars with this factory replacement. It was the final solution. My 29 has its original T3 and I love driving it with its close ratio 2nd to 3rd. Sometimes second can be along way from first as many 29 owners will confirm. This is another advantage of the T82 as the ratios are more evenly divided. I have a backup T82 conversion kit for my car but will only put it in if I blow up the T3. My recommendation is that 29 owners should own 2 cars, one with the T3 and one with the T82 so they can enjoy the benefits of both. By the way I should mention that the T82 and T81 syncronizers can be returned to their original performance by increasing the tension of the syncro springs. I have also attached General Letter No. 629 that offered the earlier Warner T77 4 speed transmission for the 29 replacement. I have not seen the T77 in a 29 and would like to hear from any one that has. Both were offered at $75.00 exchange. I cannot insert the General Service Letter scans here, the files are too big. If anyone wants them - email me (odyrestorations@aol.com) and I will send Jeff's scans. Or I will key them in and print them here - soon(ish). Thanks Jeff for correcting the record. Now I NEED a 1929, or two! tom

Yes - The T82 was the Synchromesh transmission used on 1932 & later Franklin Airmans, Series 17 and apparently the Late Olympics (?) (also Pierce Arrow). It's a nice transmission and a wonderful addition to a 1929. I think the conversion was pretty common - I have seen lots of 1929's with the T-82. tom

I'll let you know. Remind me if you don't hear back by late January. Tom

Hi Bill - there is a small run underway. They should be done in a couple months. Tom

1909 Chalmers Detroit "30" Correct 1909 chassis/engine/running gear/firewall/front floor. 1910 Chalmers Detroit "30" body (from front seat rearward) F-Head, ball bearing crank engine (extra engine included) Much to offer - near complete with a very solid body with original leather, good running gear - body swap poses some fitting challenges. Will make a superb brass tour car. [ATTACH=CONFIG]280148[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]280149[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]280150[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]280151[/ATTACH] Extra engine, some new sheet metal (fenders/aprons), correct Marsh Rims included. Asking $24,500 or offer More photos and information available at: https://picasaweb.google.com/odyssey.restorations/1909ChalmersDetroitPhotoPage?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLSyq4Xl9piXPQ&feat=directlink Contact Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. Spring Lake Park, MN odyrestorations@aol.com 763-786-1518

1909 Chalmers Detroit "30" Correct 1909 chassis/engine/running gear/firewall/front floor. 1910 Chalmers Detroit "30" body (from front seat rearward) F-Head, ball bearing crank engine (extra engine included) Much to offer - near complete with a very solid body with original leather, good running gear - body swap poses some fitting challenges. Will make a superb brass tour car. [ATTACH=CONFIG]280148[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]280149[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]280150[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]280151[/ATTACH] Extra engine, some new sheet metal (fenders/aprons), correct Marsh Rims included. Asking $24,500 or offer More photos and information available at: https://picasaweb.google.com/odyssey.restorations/1909ChalmersDetroitPhotoPage?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLSyq4Xl9piXPQ&feat=directlink Contact Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. Spring Lake Park, MN odyrestorations@aol.com 763-786-1518

1909 Chalmers Detroit "30" Correct 1909 chassis/engine/running gear/firewall/front floor. 1910 Chalmers Detroit "30" body (from front seat rearward) A high quality car with F-Head, ball bearing crank engine Much to offer - near complete with a very solid body with original leather, good running gear - body swap poses some fitting challenges. Would be a superb brass touring car. Extra engine, some new sheet metal (fenders/aprons), correct Marsh Rims included. Asking $24,500 or offer More photos and information available at: https://picasaweb.google.com/odyssey.restorations/1909ChalmersDetroitPhotoPage?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLSyq4Xl9piXPQ&feat=directlink Contact Tom Rasmussen Odyssey Restorations, Inc. Spring Lake Park, MN odyrestorations@aol.com 763-786-1518

The 1929 135/137 box is the last of the genuine Franklin boxes. They are beautifully made and extremely durable. A major rebuild generally requires only new bushings and bearings (if needed). Sometimes the sector shaft wears badly enough to require grinding, but I think it is rare in the Franklin boxes. Adjust as per operators manual. Tom

Jeff's reply (I shoulda remembered this): "I believe the 34000 Gemmer box was only used on the early series 16A cars (Harold's car has the Gemmer our 32 has the Ross). It is different from the 20500 box in that it has a double roller w/o side thrust bearings that fail in the 20500 early box. The later 16A, 16B and 19 cars all used the Ross box." Dick- the question might be - can we find which other cars used the 20500 box? Have you spoken to the stutz guys about the 215 box?

I thought they were all the same until the Ross appeared, shows what I know. I'll ask Jeff - tom

Hi Ed - I am am having pistons made now for 1916- 1929 3-1/4 bore engines. I am not sure when they will be available, but hoping for January. Give me a call or email if interested in a set Tom Rasmussen 763-786-1518 odyrestorations@aol.com

Rudy Rosales and Antique Auto Parts Cellar in S Weymouth MA have them. Tom Rasmussen

Hi Bill - You can simply cut one out of sheet steel, matching the outline of the fuemer opening, drilling holes for the mounting screws. Tom

Thanks Mike - A loaner will not help. tom

DRIVE SHAFT WANTED!! Need correct drive shaft for 1931 with a Warner 4-speed transmission. This is a Spicer shaft (has the 'normal' joints, vs the later Mechanics joint). From the rear u-joint flange to the tip of the front spline on the shaft is 56-1/16" We only need the shaft itself. A complete shaft assembly - with rear joint and front slip joint measures 58-3/8" from flange to flange. That assembly would have the shaft we need. Any help out there? We have a broken car, would like to get it back on the road! Thanks - Tom Rasmussen 763-786-1518 odyrestorations@aol.com

Hi Jim - You are describing fuel varnish from long storage. Our fuel today will slowly dissolve the varnish and wreak havoc. You will need to find a way to clean it from the fuel tank through to the carburetor. You do not necessarily have to clean it in the intake manifold as running will clean it although if the valves are badly varnished and do not seal, or are gummy in their guides, you will need to clean them before the car will be able to run well. Depending on the condition of your gas tank, you may be able to dissolve the varnish with alcohol and flush it clean. Same for the fuel line. Or you can fill the fuel lines with carb cleaner and spray them until clear. But I have found really bad varnish to require scrubbing to get out of lines. IN a recent case, it was so bad that fuel line repalcement was easier. It all depends on how bad your case is. If you don't get it all out, it may continue to gum up throttle linkage. Some swear by adding StarTron fuel system cleaner. I have no data to comment accurately - especiually on badly varnished systems. The carburetor should come completely apart to be thoroughly cleaned no matter what. The economizer and pump valves can be sticky without you knowing it from an outside inspection. Tom Rasmussen

The Factory Maunal for Trouble Shooters for Ser 9 and 10 cars specifies no more than one half pint for the series 9 multiple disc clutch. Too much oil can cause slipping and/or dragging. Straight 30W is a good start. If the clutch has a tendency to slip, cut with kerosene, up to 50%. A clutch that is grabby either needs less kerosene, or a fluid flush and change. I find 500 miles to be a pretty good interval between changes on my 1913M. My other cars go longer between changes, it seems. Each franklin with a wet clutch seems to have its own favorite ratio of elixir. Some swear by automatic transmission fluid. tom

Hi Scott - You might try 1/16" of toe-in. With any appreciable wear in the front end, springs, etc, funny things happen to alignment when loading the steering constantly, such as running crowned roads. 1/4" is the factory maximum but not necessarily ideal - and this is when all was in new condition. Less toe-in might be much better... tom