PFitz

Terry. My guess is the "wedges" were someone's idea to be some type of torsional shock absorbers????? The vast majority of flexible disc type joints don't use anything like that, including equally large discs I've made for other fire engines, trucks, and very big engine brass era cars. Paul

Just cutting out discs with hand tools out of whatever material is at hand can lead to shaft bearing problems. The discs have to be a very specific thickness and the diameter, bolt circle, and inner hole all have to be concentric. The bolt holes have to be properly sized and evenly spaced or you can easily get vibrations and off-center wear that damages parts. That takes specialized equipment and tooling. Paul

I doubt anyone is going to have them "on the shelf". Mr. Matteson sent me the size and like other fire apparatus drive shaft discs I've done they are far bigger diameter than any of the car/tractor sizes listed for sale at Then and Now or sellers of NOS discs. Paul

I custom make new flexible discs - up to 8 inch diameter- for drive shafts, clutch hubs, and water pump/generator drives for cars, trucks, and fire apparatus. I use modern material that is stronger and much more resistant to oil and grease than original and NOS discs. And it will not harden with flexing like NOS discs will. Email me the dimensions and I'll give a quote. airiscool@mail.com Paul

All 1930 and later Franklin use a Champion D-16, which was the former number - the current Champion number is now 516. And that plug uses a 7/8 deep socket. Paul

Franklin "Treslite" for late 1930 Series 147, 1931 Series 153, and 1932 Series 16. If it has a slightly raised bead around the rim, it is Marmon. Paul

Walt. It says "Seattle" right in the notice. And it took me less time to Google "Gig Harbor" than it did to post about it. Paul

Says, "Seattle Gig Harbor Police Department. Auto Theft Task Force - Puget Sound" right in the notice. A Google search shows Gig Harbor has its own website. Gig Harbor, WA | Official Website (cityofgigharbor.net) Paul

Some felt suppliers will refer to the denser grades as "bearing felt". It is equivalent to the F-1 / F2 grades. Paul

Here's an 11A version of the Coupe. When it came into the shop I also thought there was no room for a rumble seat. But when I opened the lid, as you can see in the pix, it does indeed have a rumble seat. Just not as roomy as the later designs. A passenger side view would show if there are fender step plates or not. Paul

FYI. Your picture is a 1930 dash because of the oil pressure gauge. 1929 used a hydrostatic oil level gauge same as '31 and '32. It might help your search to know which one are you asking for ? Paul

If the vac tank is functioning well the line from the gas tank to the vac tank is working under atmospheric pressure because of the pressure drop created by the vac tank. It is much higher pressure than the very slight pressure created by gravity in the line from vac tank to carb. A properly functioning vac tank can cause higher pressure in the tank-to-carb line than many mechanical and electric fuel pumps. So it can use a 1/4 inch line there. Paul

Got into the NYC auto show early on the first day only for the media. Some exhibitors were still putting the finishing touches on their exhibits. At the Delorean booth a worker was going over the car removing any marks from being pushed into position. I was amazed at how quickly he cleaned it up,...with a Scotch Brite pad. The car was not polished, it was what is known as a "brushed finish". Any I saw there after in public I did not see fingerprints. Maybe the trick to keeping hands off them was always keep driving like Narco's are after you ? Oh wait,... that didn't work for Delorean. 😁 Paul

Standard on '22 Franklin Series 10. Optional on later Series. Paul

A plumbing and heating supply house likely has a bigger selection of not-so-common pipe fittings and connectors, such as reducing fittings, both male and female pipe thread. Paul

Nope, the shutoffs were always in the fuel line below the vac tank, between it and the carb, because the tank is vented. If you shutoff between gas tank and vac tank the vac tank will still leak down into the carb. And if the float needle does not seal perfectly (they didn't when new that's why the manufacturers had the shutoff) you have gas spilling out of the carb onto the garage floor. Gas fumes being heavier than air you may not smell it. One static spark from a shoe, or drop a steel tool on concrete and kaboom. Paul

No, they won't work for stuck screws. They bend too easily for that. I only mentioned them in reply to Leomara asking about screws that just turn but won't back out - like those in a rust filled hole or rotted wood. Paul

There are sets of special screwdrivers with a spilt tip made to expand the tip and grab inside the screw slot. There are several brands, but they all work the same. Here's one brand. Klein Tools SK234 - Screwdriver Set, Slotted Screw Holding, 3-Piece | TEquipment Paul

Not just the right sized screwdriver to fill the slot - it has to have sharp edges to stay in the screw slot and grab best. Then just like tough-to-get-loose bolts/nuts you can use a small impact gun. And just like with bolts/nuts, it will get out screws that would otherwise break. I use one of the small "butterfly" impact wrenches. Not too powerful, but powerful enough to get out large wood screws rust-stuck in hardwood. Best to start out for low air pressure and increase only enough to get the screw loose. Too high and it can damage the screw head. Sears sold slotted screw driver bits with a hex end to fit into a 3/8 drive socket that fits on the butterfly impact wrench. Paul

The vac tanks had a shutoff valve between the tank and carb because the old-style float needles were not a positive enough seal. The shutoff valve prevented the carb from slowly flooding as gravity-fed gasoline eventually drained the vac tank. Even with a modern more positive sealing Viton-tipped float needle in the carb, today's highly volatile gasoline can rather quickly evaporate out of the carb. I've seen good sized fuel bowls be bone dry in a month after last running the motor. As the gasoline evaporates the carb's float level drops, then the float needle valve opens and gasoline seeps into the carb from the vac tank. Given enough time that process will drain the vac tank unless you have the shutoff valve. Paul

Use a small dental type of mirror to make sure the bearing cup is fully seated in the hub. Sometimes hammering them in does not always seat them perfectly. Paul

Good luck. The potmetal mountings of the few that survive have long ago swollen and cracked. I've had to replace many with a modern marine ignition switch and regular 6 volt coil, mounted like a 153 on the firewall above the gas pedal. And just like the pot metal carbs of Series 12 and 13, it's not a matter of if, but when they will fail. I know of one that was fine when the car was restored, until the owner was stranded at Caz when the pot metal finally gave out, jamming the key switch in the off position. And you can't hot wire that type coil, either. Took an expensive trip to NAPA to get another coil and toggle switch to bypass the dash-mounted original so that the car could be driven back home to Connecticut. That car now also has a marine key switch and firewall-mounted coil. The bonus is, if the foot starter switch ever goes bad, the marine key switches have a momentary "start" position so you can put a 6 volt stater solenoid down by the starter and start the car just by holding the key past the on position. Just like Franklin did in 32. Paul

Often there was a metal fitting screwed to each end of the underside of the seat cushion's front wooden frame that jammed against the seat base front wooden frame. If you look closely at the rear edge of the seat base's front wood frame you can see evidence where those fittings rubbed and chewed the wood from taking the cushion in and out. Paul

Franklin also used an air valve carb of their own manufacture up until 1923, designed by John Wilkinson the chief engineer. Paul

Well, he was close,.... he at least got the "F" right. It's Franklin. 😁 Later 1929 production Franklin Series 13 used that cast iron U-2. Two different models of U-2 for the two different sized engines used that year so need to know the sizes stamped on venturi and jets. Franklin also used that same model AC fuel pump in 29' and 30'. I don't see it in the pix but hopefully the spring-loaded spun-steel venturi is there. Paul