61polara

TG57Roadmaster had a nos side trim section, with unfaded paint. The best modern match I could find was 1980 Chevrolet "Red Orange". This is paint code 79. I had this mixed in single stage and used it on side trim and wheels.

Can you scan and post the card?

If you still have the old glove box lock, take it along with the ignition lock to a locksmith. That way you can make sure it is the same key. Even without a number the locksmith can make a key. If the cylinder pins are removable, he can make the key based on the pin lengths. If not, it can be made by the impression method. This is a little hard on the lock, but it works. If you do not have the old glove box lock, take your replacement along. He should be able to rekey it so it matches the ignition, door and trunk lock. I've had about a dozen keys made in these ways over the years.

Yes, you do have to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. It doesn't have to move far. There should be enough movment with it disconnected only from the manifold. The exhaust hangers will support the pipe with no problem.

Buicks used a single key setup. Pull the glove box lock and take it to a locksmith. Your ignition key should also lock the doors, glove box and trunk, unless someone changed the ignition lock. Does your ignition key lock anything else? I'm assuming this is a Buick. Other GM cars used a 2 key system in '41. The door and ignitions should be the same, with the other key fitting the trunk and glove box.

A friend was selling a car, advertised at $1800. A guy came to see the car and was very interested. The friend offered to let the guy test drive it and said he would take $1600. The guy came back from the test drive and ask if he would take $1800. SOLD!

A friend of mine and regular poster in the forum was traveling out of Charleston, SC last summer. About 50 miles out of Charleston, he saw damaged kids bikes and other family items by the interstate and a mini van and state trooper pulled off on the side of the road. He pull off to see if he could help. The young family lost the luggage rack off the top of the van, the van was stuffed full of the other vacation luggage and two kids in car seats. The rack was damaged beyond use. The State Trooper said "Boy, am I gald to see you!", can you haul this stuff for these people? They were 75 miles from home. My friend loaded everything in the back of the truck and followed them to their house. The bikes were damaged, but they made it home. Hope you see this TG57Roadmaster.

Try this link: Allstate Insurance - Investor Relations - Quarterly Investor Information - 2009

1954 Desoto

For the 4-5" fuel line, your mechanic should be able to cut the flexible part off and get to the metal portion of the ends. He can fit rubber fuel line, with clamps to the original fittings on the end.

You have a 1952 Imperial. Serial numbers were from 7753601 to 7763596. The titles from this period used the motor number. Motor numbers for 1952 Imperial were from C52-8-1001 through C52-8-59631. The serial number is in the correct range for the title you have. Check the motor number, stamped on the motor to verify that you have the correct title for the car. If the motor was changed and all the paper work done, the title would have the original motor number followed by a / and then the replacement motor number. This process varried by state.

I believe the '61-'63 Lincolns have a access panel in the left front wheel well that can be removed and the latch accessed with the tire iron. Check you factory shop manual, I beleve the procedure is in there. You can call Chris Dunn at Lincoln Land in Clearwater, FL and he or some one in his shop can tell you for sure about the procedure.

Which wheel is hanging up? You should be able to feel a heat difference on the hubcap. Were the brake hoses of new manufacture or NOS or NORS? I had the same problem on a '47 Roadmaster, went through the brake system completely and thought I had the problem corrected. Took the car to a National AACA show and 3 miles from the show the rear brakes were hanging up again. I was Assistant Chief Judge and could not be late. Pulled onto the show field with smoke coming from both rear wheels! Came back to the car a few hours later and both rear tires were flat. The heat cooked the inter tubes! After a tow home, went through the rear brakes again and found that the "new" NORS rear hose internal diamater was less than 1/16 of an inch! This hose was on for less than 3 months. A new manufactured hose, and replacement of wheel cylinder seals, axle seal and axle bearings fixed the problem. The hose was the problem, all other parts were replaced due to the heat.

Young Ford in Charlotte is still around and family owned. Have you contacted them?

Check your voltage regulator and generator. The starter curcit grounds through the voltage regulator to the generator. When the generator spins fast enough to put out current the starter loses its ground and stops operating. This is why the starter does not operate when the engine is running but will restart the engine imediately if the engine dies.

About 1973 I was on my way to a car show in a '70 Challenger conv. I pulled off the road, in a small town, to take another look at the road map. An older gentleman can up to the car and ask if I knew the way to "Glory". With all the strange names of small towns in the area, I replied, "No, but I have a map and can help you find it". Shocked, he replied, "No, I mean, have you been Saved!"........................

I would bet on worn syncro's.

Forgot to mention, on the eights, the overdrive works in revese also. Get the car above 16 mph, lift your foot off the gas and it will shift into reverse overdrive! I've never been brave enough to try it!

You actually have a 4 speed! Low will start off in 1st and shifts to 2nd when you lift you foot off the gas. High starts off in 3rd and shifts to 4th. It is very easy to hit three gears but not all four. If you start the car in low range it will be in 1st. Lift your foot off the gas and it will shift to 2nd. Depress the clutch and shift to "high" range and you will be in 4th. If you shift from low to high range before you lift your foot off the gas and your speed is below 6 mph, it will shift into third, then lift you foot off the gas and it will shift into 4th. Also, on this transmission, if the shift has occured in the range and you floor the accelerator, it will downshift to the lower gear of the range. Most of your driving can be done in the high range. I only use low range when starting off on a steep hill. For the 6 cylinder cars a manual 4 speed transmission was used and thats what I've discribed above. For the 8 cylinder cars, they drove and shifted the same way but used a totally different transmission. It was a 3 speed with overdrive. First gear was omitted. The transmission shifted from 2nd to 2nd overdrive in low and from 3rd to 3rd overdrive in high. All this sound complicated, but it is a joy to drive and very easy.

It's been a few years since I did this but don't remember any problems. The "O" ring needs to be put on the manifold. You can't push the manifold into the O ring. Be sure to use a new O ring. Everything should move right into place.

Check your owners manual. If you will delay shifting in DRIVE for a few seconds on the way to reverse, it will slide right in. This works every time on my '48 Cadillac. Also on this transmission, shut the engine off in drive or neutral and then shift to reverse with the engine off. This locks the transmission, much like park. Again, this is covered in the operating procedures in the owners manual.