68RIVGS

I agree 100% with Pat's synopsis; At the end of the day, it al comes down to supply and demand !

. . .simple plug 'n play with an inexpensive adapter ! No cutting, splicing, or messing around - doesn't get much easier Daryle !

. . . thanks crowvet, but I just wanted t know what year GM started using internally regulated alternators in Riviera. I have already modified my '68 as you suggested with a plug 'n play adapter !

. . . much appreciated, thanks for the info Bob, I will pass it on !

Does anyone here know what year and exactly when Buick switched over to internally regulated alternators ? A fellow member has asked, as he has a '69 in his shop that has no external alternator regulator and the original factory wiring harness shows no signs of being modified. . . . thanks in advance !

Not sure on gasket thickness Mr. Paul, surely others better informed will chime in ! If that rear main doesn't leak, as most do, why try and fix it ?

Unfortunately there are scammers everywhere in today's electronic world, that's how they survive ! CL, Kijiji, eBay, and many other trusted sites are vast watering holes for these unscrupulous scammers. Never commit to any dealings with them - if it can't be done "in person", with the goods available for inspection, and with good old cash ! It's a shame, but the days of trusting unknown individuals are long gone. Welcome to the real world !

The Silver embossed piece of Riviera literature in the trunk photo is a '68 piece, not '66, still a nice restored car though !

HO HO HO to all, boys 'n girls from the Great White North !

The abs molded plastic package shelf parts are pretty thick and quite stiff - they also get brittle with age so be careful as they can crack or split quite easily. Once they warp and age, they have a tendency to retain that specific shape. They are also awkward to remove or install, as you must lie on your back over the hump in the trunk with limited head space to release, or secure the special fasteners that hold the centre section in place - there is provision for four special fasteners but usually only two got used, (...see Body Manual). No doubt a labor saving, assembly short cut to reduce costs, or reduce hardware usage and assembly time ? That's probably a contributing factor as to why the plastic warped in the first place ? It was not securely fastened right from the factory to begin with !

I'm pretty sure the rear package shelf pieces are common to all 2nd generation cars with maybe the exception of the '70 Riviera. Earlier '66 versions had a series of horizontal slots for the "flow through" ventilation system in the centre section as there were no window vents There may be some slight cosmetic differences year to year, but all the 3 piece abs plastic package shelf pieces fill the same space, and mount the same way. The rear window defogger blower was an option for all model years ! A lot of the abs plastic package shelves warped from age, and exposure to sun through the big back window glass. The abs plastic can also be painted to match your interior color with special abs plastic semi gloss paint.

. . . thinking of "personalizing" your glove box door Mr. Paul ? LOL

. . . just hand fabricate some - once the trim pieces are installed nobody will ever see them. About 18" long, and the bend is about a 1/4" deep and roughly15 degree offset, -just enough to allow the lip on the trim to slip over them - same with the dimpled washers. The trim simply slips over these strips, and dimpled washers and hangs there. The sheet metal screws at the bottom secure the ribbed rocker panel trim to the car.

I believe all "full size" '68/'69 Buick Riviera, Wildcat, and Electra 225, and possibly other years shared the same accelerator pedal.

The front portion mounts into a galvanized metal strip that has a "V" lip in the top - the same holds true for the rear most portion of the rocker panel trim. The entire length of the panel is secured by 3, to 6 dimpled cup washers screwed, and positioned along the length of the rocker panel. The lip on the top of the anodized aluminum cover is trapped behind the "v" strips and the dimpled washers. The sheet metal screw at the bottom of the ribbed molding secure the rocker panel molding to the car. I also painted my ribbed molding to simulate the Black anodized finish after straightening and dent removal. The original factory finish had faded from age and exposure to road debris. It barely shows once it's mounted on the lower portion of the car. There may be more rocker panel trim info in a '68/'69 Fisher Body Manual. . . . trust this helps Graymist69

Some spray cans of lithium grease come with a hollow plastic tube that can be inserted into the can nozzle to direct the spray? Otherwise you can use a small disposable brush to spread the grease into the tracks - oil all the bare steel pivot points with a silicone spry while your at it, and ensure the glass moves smoothly and freely without any binding. Apply the grease and light oil sparingly, a little helps a lot!

. . . apply a little silicone grease to the replacement pedal - it will come off easier if it's necessary to remove it again ! It will also keep the steel ball studs from rusting and chewing up the pedal rubber sockets.

. . . as I recall, the OPGI tray did not fit very well, and required quite a few mods for an acceptable fit !

. . . use the glass lens as a pattern, and make a new one out of acrylic plastic ?

??????????????????????????????????????????? HUH?. Have a gander at a schematic Tom - all power window motors are chassis grounded by the mounting bolts. Each 3 wire power window switch is powered +12VDC, and the other two motor leads are up, or down. The power window motors are grounded via the motor mounting bolts !

If it's anything like Costco here in Canada, a new battery is covered by a 3 year, free replacement warranty as long as you have your original invoice. After that it's pro-rated for 84 months. I swear by COSTCO batteries, and use them in my fleet !

As Ed stated, one terminal for up, and the other for down. The chassis ground is usually through the case via the mounting bolts. You can use any +12V DC source to test the motors.

Welcome to the ROA forum, . . . like RoadShark sez, and also check out the ROA website at www.rivowners.org when you get a chance !

Absolutely gorgeous Greymist69 - it just suits the car. Here's my '68 Riviera at the Hershey Annual ROA meet in 2010. Thanks for the color id.- you made a very good choice !