68RIVGS

The factory ground location on a '68 is exactly as shown in your photo Sebastian There should also be two copper braided ground wires bolted at the rear of each cylinder head, and fastened to the firewall with small self tapping bolts. The rear seat lower section can be removed as per Ed's instructions !

Correct XframeFX - Buick never used gaskets on the exhaust manifolds, and they were bolted directly t the heads. A "used" manifold should be checked for flatness with a steel strait edge, and can be resurfaced prior to reinstallation.

Very interesting views ED, and thanks for starting this thread, BTW - your link worked fine for me. I have been looking for nice whites for some time to replace my 25+ year old Goodyear Radials that are long "unobtainium" now. Looks like plenty of sources when you start beating the bushes !

Seems your original thread got way off track Gene, my apologies for getting off topic ! Does anybody here have a clue, or identity for Gene's manual antenna mast ?

Hi Mike - It was just a VHT rattle can, very high heat, flameproof header paint - silica ceramic coating in a Cast Iron finish #CSP998. Supposed to be good for1300 - 2000 degrees F, or 704-1092 degrees C. It simply looked much better than the replacement rusty finish manifold - how long it lasts remains to be seen? Certainly a definite improvement over the old "cracked" manifold it replaced !

The larger, lower mast section of the power, or manual antenna determines how much it will protrude out from the fender. Buy shortening this tube, I think you can reduce the amount of antenna that protrudes above fender ? Only one way to find out ! LOL

. . . your welcome Tom ! Must have changed sometime during the '68 production run. One of my parts cars with the 4 note option had the reinforcing clips per the illustration, and my resto car had the flat, ribbed reinforcing plate you see in the photo. Much stronger than the original '66, ''67 and partial '68 design. (...imho) That long trumpet horn has a tendency to flex much more than the smaller horn !

I was fortunate enough to find "good used" when I did my resto. many moons ago. These certainly would do a good job, and they are a reasonable price too! Thanks Mr. Paul.

Well we finished everything up today ! Great fun, and a real challenge - I could never have done the job on my own, and fortunately had the expertise of some fellow car buds ! One with tools, torches, and knowledge, the other with a well lit, heated garage, and well stocked fridge. Anyways - the car fired right up, without any annoying exhaust noise, and no coolant leaks! Here's your 4 note horn pics Tom M., along with my freshly painted up 430 engine. . . . my thanks to all for sharing their expertise !

Thanks Tom - NO exhaust gaskets, I know that's the way it was built + a shim steel head gasket, no composit gasket. Silicone around the water ports, and the 4 corners of the intake manifold and block seals I was quite surprised how clean the head and valves looked with about 60-75 K miles on the 430. The cylinder walls were in good shape visually too, with no ridges at the top of the cylinders.

Thank goodness for Heli-coils, or Perma-Threads !! Had to use a few for some of the stubborn 3/8" manifold bolts that were welded to the head. All set to go now with some new manifold gaskets, a new head gasket, and new intake gasket and seals. At least the job went reasonably well, with good help from a fellow car bud and his machinist friend ! I knew pretty well before we started it was not going to be an easy job, and I will feel much better after it's all put together and running again ! Didn't forget your 4-note horn pics Tom, just no time to do them.

Thanks Ed !

Well the entire exercise has turned into a project, as the stubborn manifold bolts would not budge - I managed to get 1 out of 6 out of the head - not bad for a beginner eh ? Even after careful heating with an oxy/acetylene torch the bolts simply would not turn. Heck, they have only been in there since 1967. After breaking two of the through bolts, with no choice, we decided to remove the head on the right side of the engine to drill out the remaining bolts. As expected, this has turned into a major job, but it's much too late to turn back now ! Onward and upward is the only way to go ! Man over machine, sez I ! Also on the + side, a good time to detail that intake manifold.

Thanks Winston and Tom - your advice is most appreciated !

I do, and I will Tom, probably tomorrow or next day !

. . . likely what Tom sez ?

. . . update: Got the old crusty, crscked passenger side exhaust manifold off ! Did it the easy way - simply torched the heads off the bolts, since the manifold was no good anyway. Now each one of the exhaust bolt studs will need to be removed from the head. A slow and time consuming process, don't want to break any ! Run a tap through each location, and the replacement manifold is good to go.

. . . any particular reason(s) why not SST bolts Tom ? Please share with the group !

Finally getting ready to change the cracked passenger exhaust manifold on my '68 Riviera 430. It's only been that way for a few years now, and I figure I've procrastinated long enough. Got a good used replacement manifold, Remflex gasket set, and new, shiny SST manifold bolts. Got a good mechanic with torches, and the use of a bud's warm, spacious heated garage. Say a few prayers for me and my car ! Fingers crossed. . . . will keep y'all posted

BTDT Jason, couldn't agree more !

Unobtainium for Full Size ;68s Tom - Skylarks only !

. . . have at it Gabriel, looks like a fun project !

. .. . . nice air cleaner Mr. Paul - so BUICK looking !!

correct link: http://buickcenters.com/riviera.html

. . . just guessing here Mr. Paul, but maybe a bad chassis ground ?