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The 265 was also available in '57. It was the standard 2-bbl V8 with manual transmission.

There was an auto museum adjacent to the "Endless Endeavors" antique mall in the area you're describing. Everything was auctioned approximately 8 years ago. I remember an article in a magazine on the high prices bid on the signs and memorabilia. The building was empty for years, possibly still. I know this is not answering your question as to what became of the car.

At a Concours d'Elegance last year with my '54 Hudson a gentleman that looked to be in his thirties made the statement that he didn't know that a "Hudson" was a real car. He thought it was just a made-up cartoon character that was in the movie <span style="font-style: italic">Cars</span>! I would think that someone who would pay the admission as a spectator at a Concours d'Elegance would be somewhat of an enthusiast. Maybe not. And as stated in previous replies, I also hear, "Who made it"?

This one is class! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeiS-Yl6UjI

Ugly is "in" now. We have boxes (Scion), Playskool toys (Element), and military vehicles (Hummer, among others) and small cars that looks like they were hit at both ends and pushed up in the middle. They don't get much uglier!

A mixture of letters and/or numbers is supposed to sound sporty. That is the way nearly all cars (with the exception of the ecomomy cars) are marketed today. "A smooth ride" is never heard in advertising, it's all about good handling and taking curves at speed. The advertising is also directed at those under 40 years old.

I've been in the printing-publishing trade for over 40 years(!) and the <span style="font-style: italic">Antique Automobile</span> is one of the nicest looking publications that I've seen. It seems to get better with each issue.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 53Bob76R</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe showing my age...........but I can still vividly picture the Chevy commercials with the Bonanza theme in the background as the new cars sat on top of the mountain. </div></div> I also remember the Chevy commercial on Bonanza, I believe 1963, of the Chevrolet driving on the surface of the water of the streets of Venice! Classy commercial. Totally different than the abstract car commercials of today showing blurred, skidding cars, identity unknown until the name is flashed at the conclusion.

I use Eastwood's "Detail Gray" for the natural steel/cast iron items with (in my opinion) good results.

I would like to have a '55 Century convertible. I had a '55 Special 2-door HT while I was in high school in '65.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1937hd45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Restorer32, The reason the term "Rat Rod" is used is to get attention, for the most part I use it when I list less than perfect parts that are used by many to build a period Hot Rod that looks like it has been around for a while. "Petina" is another overworked sales term. TOO BAD the antique "restoration" end of the hobby can't get behind a "RatRod" type movement, you know unrestored cars that could take part in the hobby rather than wait 10-12 years for a restoration to be finished. </div></div> As 1937hd45 states, "Rat Rod" in a lot of cases is used to get attention. Probably half of the ones using the term have no idea what it means.

Have you tried to replicate the color with powder coating? There are different clears that you can use to topcoat the color. I would think using satin, semi-gloss or full gloss over a flat, semi-gloss or gloss color should get you close. I've done this with parts and tools although I've not tried to match black oxide.

If my memory is correct of the b&w picture, the car was white or at least light colored.

Somewhere in my collection of car magazines that I saved when I was a kid, there is a short article, w/picture, of a "factory" or "prototype" (I can't recall) Mark II convertible. I think it was in a <span style="font-style: italic">Motor Trend </span>or <span style="font-style: italic">Motor Life</span> magazine. I saw your car at the Ault Park concours. Beautiful car. We were entered with a '54 Hudson.

I've heard the same reason, as to the wood-framed bodies on GM cars. As you said, when the wood rotted, they were scrapped.

I owned a '64 Ninety-Eight a few years ago and was wondering which transmission that they came with. Jetaway (4-speed), Roto-Hydramatic (3-speed slimjim), or Turbo Hydramatic (3 speed)? Thanks.

I agree. For the most part, the whole automotive industry is this way. Unless you get into the high-dollar-rides, styling, interiors, and colors are boring. That's why I don't buy new anymore.

I remember seeing the first RED stop sign. It was in the early fifties and were were going to see Grandma in my Dad's '51 Hudson.

I have an original inspection sticker in the corner of my windshield from 1970. It states the mileage of the car at this time and would be destroyed if I tried to take it off. Does the AACA deduct points for this? Thanks.

Yes, it is autographed by a couple of them but I cloned it off for the posting. Thanks for your replies!

This is an interesting article that I found on the internet. ___________________________________________________________ "Oil is Killing our Cars" By Keith Ansell, President Foreign Parts Positively, Inc. www.ForeignPartsPositively.com 360-882-3596 Oil is Killing our cars Part I About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval that could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The reduction of these chemicals in supplied oil was based on the fact that zinc, manganese and/or phosphates reduce the effectiveness and eventually damage catalytic converters and introduce minute amounts of pollutants into our atmosphere. A month or so ago I had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club bring a totally failed camshaft and lifters back to me that had only 900 miles on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft re-grinder and asked how this could happen. They were well aware of this problem as they were starting to have many failures of this type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only thing that could create this type of problem. My customer has assembled many engines and had lubricated the camshaft properly and followed correct break in procedures. This got me on the phone to Delta Camshaft, one of our major suppliers. Then the bad news came out: It's today's "modern" API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils that are killing our engines. Next call: To another major camshaft supplier, both stock and performance (Crane). They now have an additive for whatever oil you are using during break-in so that the camshaft and lifters won't fail in an unreasonably short period of time. They also suggest using a diesel rated oil on flat tappet engines. Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars (Redline). Their response: "We are well aware of the problem and we still use the correct amounts of those additives in our products". They continued to tell me they are not producing API approved oils so they don't have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT the "new, improved and approved" ones that destroy flat tappet engines! "We just build the best lubricants possible". Sounds stupid, doesn't it, New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true for our cars. To top this off: Our representative from a major supplier of performance and street engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to "warn us" of the problem of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call that the representative was making only because of this problem to warn their engine builders! "The reduction of the zinc, manganese and phosphates are causing very early destruction of cams and followers". They are recommending that, for now at least, there must be a proper oil additive put in the first oil used on new engines, beyond the liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube. They have been told that the first oil is the time the additives are needed but remain skeptical that the first change is all that is necessary. Their statement: Use diesel rated oils such as Delo or Rotella that are usually available at auto stores and gas stations. This problem is BIG! American Engine Rebuilder's Association (AERA) Bulletin #TB2333 directly addresses this problem. I had a short discussion with their engineer and he agreed with all that I had been finding. Next phone call was to a retired engineer from Clevite, a major bearing and component manufacturer. First surprise was that he restored older British Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he was "VERY" aware of this problem because many of the old bikes had rectangular tappets that couldn't rotate and are having a very large problem with the new oils. He has written an article for the British Bike community that verify all the "bad news" we have been finding. Comp Cams put out "#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts". They have both an assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence in the bulletin was "While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in protection, subsequent testing has proven the durability benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from the off the-shelf oil". <<< CONTINUED >>> Oil is Killing our cars Part 3 Last month's report on this subject is turning out to be just the tip of the iceberg! Many publications have had this subject of zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate (ZDDP) covered in varying depths over the last few months. Some publications have even had conflicting stories when you compare one month's article with their next month's article! They are all ending up supporting our report. I have had the good fortune to have the ear of quite a few leaders in the industry including some wonderful input from Castrol. We have been very reluctant to "dump" Castrol, as it has been such a great supporter of our cars and industry over the years. Castrol hasn't really abandoned our cars, just shifted to a more mass marketing mode. Many Castrol products are not appropriate for our cars today, some still are. Now for the latest report: #1 Castrol GTX 20W-50 is still good for our cars after break-in! 10W-40, 10W-30 and other grades are NOT good. Absolute NOT GOOD for any oil (Any Brand) that is marked "Energy Conserving" in the API "Donut" on the bottle, these oils are so low with ZDDP or other additives that they will destroy our cams. Virtually all "Diesel" rated oils are acceptable. #2 Castrol HD 30 is a very good oil for break-in of new motors. This oil has one of the largest concentrations of ZDDP and Moly to conserve our cams and tappets. #3 Only an unusual Castrol Syntec 20W-50 approaches the levels of protection we need when we look to the better synthetic lubricants. We are attempting to get this oil but will be using Redline 10W-40 or 10W-30 as these are lighter weights for better performance, flow volume, less drag and has the additive package we need. #4 The trend today is to lighter weight oils to decrease drag, which increases mileage. Most of these seem to be the "Energy Conservation" oils that we cannot use. #5 Redline oil and others are suggesting a 3,000-mile break-in for new engines! Proper seating of rings, with today's lubricants is taking that long to properly seal. Shifting to synthetics before that time will just burn a lot of oil and not run as well as hoped. #6 The "Energy Conservation" trend was first lead by automakers to increase mileage numbers and secondly because the ZDDP and other chemicals degrade the catalytic converter after extended miles, increasing pollution. We don't have catalytic converters (mentioned to a specific group) and the mileage gains are not that significant for most of us. For you science buffs: ZDDP is a single polar molecule that is attracted to Iron based metals. The one polar end tends to "Stand" the molecule up on the metal surface that it is bonded to by heat and friction. This forms a sacrificial layer to protect the base metal of the cam and tappet from contacting each other. Only at very high pressures on a flat tappet cam is this necessary because the oil is squeezed/wiped from the surface. This high pressure is also present on the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) in diesel engines, therefore the need for ZDDP in diesel engines. Second part of the equation is Molybdenum disulfide (Moly). The moly bonds to the zinc adding an additional, very slippery, sacrificial layer to the metal. I found out that too much of the moly will create problems; lack of this material reduces the effectiveness of the ZDDP. The percentage, by weight is from .01 to .02%, not much, but necessary. Latest conclusions: Running our older, broken in engines on Castrol 20W-50 GTX is ok. Break in a new engine for 3,000 miles on HD 30 Castrol. New engines (after break-in) and fairly low mileage engines will do best with the Redline 10W- 40 or 10W-30 synthetic.

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Since Kalamazoo, Michigan is the closest meet from my home next year, am I able to be judged for my senior award at the Grand National. Thanks.

I have heard this also. Chrysler was after a government contract and the contract called for a standardized shifter. Thus the change.

I believe that the "Riverside" brand name extended to even the Montgomery Ward line of motor scooters.