KongaMan

I don't know why a screen would be any harder to see than an analog gauge in the same location. Depending on the configuration, it would actually be easier to read. Don't know that touching the screen would be any harder than pushing in the lighter, either.

One should note that the viro-Nazis have closed Clark's until at least May 18, so there's no hurry place that order. You might also note that they no longer sell uncovered trays, so be sure to get those vinyl samples. Unfortunately, a pre-covered tray without holes makes OEM-style installation a bit more challenging.

Multi-function gauge? Now you're talking. With the proliferation of in-dash touch screens, there has to be one small enough to fit that opening (my old Garmin GPS would). If you look around, there's probably already an app that will do most of what you want, so a cheap down-version iPhone might fit the bill.

I think the question is where and how to mount the center strap. I'm guessing that factory mounts exist and will be used for the outer belts. If you can't figure it out, fill the trunk full of packing peanuts and chuck him in there.

Look at the existing mounts for clues (e.g. reinforced backing plate). If you hit something hard enough to rip a plate through the floorboard, you're in a precarious situation regardless. Not to be insensitive, but if all you have is a lap belt, you won't be around to know how he made out. In this particular car, putting it too far back directly beneath the package shelf might interfere with the spare, no?

You let your wife in your car? 😲

Build a fire in the trunk and see where the smoke comes out.

IMHO, if you have to cut it to make it fit, it's the wrong part.

FWIW, CARS was blowing out the rear mats for something like $20 a pair (black only). Maybe they still are... Front mats were full price.

Michigan residents just got a reprieve. From the Governor's last order: "Individuals may also leave the home to pick up or return a motor vehicle as permitted under section 9(i) of this order, or to have a motor vehicle or bicycle repaired or maintained." (emphasis added) Go forth and wrench without fear of prosecution.

One thing to consider before you walk this path is the effect it may have on the value of the car. You can't put a price on your happiness, but the next owner might well put a price on the restoration work required to undo the mods. IOW, before you spend a lot of time, effort and money turning a $20,000 car into a $15,000 car, be sure that you're going to get enough grins to compensate. And save the parts you take off. The next guy might want them.

You could always roll up windows without the key. I assume you mean power windows. That's normal behavior. Both power windows and lights work with the ignition off and the key removed. Sounds like it might be the ignition switch. There's a lot of power through that switch, and it is quite common for wires and connections to get burned or corroded.

I think it's been about 5 years since I had someone in the passenger seat. It's been longer than that (decades) since anyone was in the back seat. If memory serves, that might have been the young lady my mom called "Fireball" -- but that's a different story.

My question is: exactly what epoxy did you use to attach the metal to the plastic? There are a lot of epoxies out there, and a lot of them don't work worth beans on plastic.

The first sentence of the order is, "This order must be construed broadly to prohibit in-person work that is not necessary to sustain or protect life." That would not seem to confer immunity on the owner of a business, nor would engaging in personal activity at a business location seem to meet any of the exceptions. Interpretation notwithstanding, go anyway. As Thomas Jefferson said, "A little rebellion now and then is a good thing." And if you get busted all alone without another person within a hundred yards, remember what my granddad used to say: "The way to get rid of a bad law is to enforce it."

Declare it as liquor or pot.

Doesn't matter; read the order. If it's a business (irrespective of who owns the building), you can only go there for approved activities: "No person or entity shall operate a business or conduct operations that require workers to leave their homes or places of residence except to the extent that those workers are necessary to sustain or protect life or to conduct minimum basic operations." Wrenching on your car wouldn't seem to meet either of those exceptions. Sorry, man, but you voted for her.

But you can't work on a car while you're there; that doesn't meet the definition of "essential activity".

Unless you live in Michigan. In which case you're probably not allowed to go to your garage. 😠

Split the difference: $150. I can do PayPal. That almost sounds like a fan problem -- but hard to say. Displaying my ignorance here, but what kind of fan clutch do you have? "Test the sensor" means verify that the engine is actually as hot as you think it is. Those things go bad (or are off to begin with); they'll put the needle in the red when you're still well within normal operating temperature. As other guys have said, puking may mean you just overfilled it. And because flushing is a PITA, do the less annoying stuff first.

Junk it. I'll give you $100 for the whole thing. - If you run it for a few minutes (without driving) does it exhibit the same systems? - Test the sensor. Are you sure it's good? - Get an infrared thermometer and do a sanity check on the block temp. - Remove both rad hoses and test the flow: dump a bucket of water in one and see how fast it comes out the other. - Backflush the block. You may have casting residue or other junk plugging a passage.

If it ain't broke don't fix it. If you go looking for problems, you'll probably find (or create) one.

Take the lid off the console.

Why not take the car to the woodworker and let him figure it out?

Get a tension gauge and tighten it properly. A Krikit is ~$10. None of those hillbilly "mechanic's tips" (quarter turn, white thumb, etc.) work worth a crap.