bhclark

Bryan, That sounds like a wonderful idea!!!!!

Finally got mine today!!!!

Gas Tank cleaned out....Check Pin Hole repaired with JB Weld.....Check Gas Tank primed and painted....Check Gas Tank installed.....Check Gas tank removed, installed and removed and installed in order to figure out exactly how shutoff valve worked....Check. end result? SHE FIRED UP on the first turn of the key! a little noisy and a little smoky, but seemed to run fine. I did jack up the rear wheels, but it didn't seem necessary. The brake kept the tires still until I released it, then they spun nice and fast. I'm going to review the manual tonight and take her on her first maiden voyage under my ownership tomorrow. Thanks for all of the advice and encouragement....I couldn't have done it without your help! One question (that I hope I find the answer to in the manual...). I adjusted the carb valve 2 turns(2 entire 360 turns counter clockwise from stop) and it seemed to work just fine, but there was a significant difference in the idle as I adjusted it back and forth. How do I determine the best place to keep this adjustment set? Is this the equivalent of an idle mixture screw? I don't want to do any damage by running it too lean or too rich. The car is in a garage on an alley right now, so I will take a quick exit, then head to the (hopefully empty) funeral home parking lot to practice) There was a few drops of oil near the very front right of the engine.....

I'll have to ask my mail man if he's done reading mine yet....

I too would prefer a '60s bumper to an air bag.

I won't buy anything but an Optima for my rarely driven cars. I'll put cheaper batteries in my daily drivers, but if it's going to sit for any period of time at all, I'll go Optima.

Nice Mark, When I was growing up, my dad always just took the keys out of the ignition and dropped them in the floor. Never locked anything.

It was the first place I found and only place I needed when I bought my beetle last year. You can find parts dirt cheap on their classifieds as well. Great people with all the knowledge in the world. TheSamba.com :: Volkswagen Classifieds, photos, shows, forums, and information

When I was 16, I lost control of my '65 wildcat and (from behind) T-boned the side of an '89 Ford thunderbird turbo sport coupe at probably 50 mph. I knocked that car 30+ feet off the road and it was totaled. My car stayed on the road and my fender was dented. That was the only damage. Even the bumper was okay. amazing. New cars just don't measure up to the sheer volume and quality of steel in the older cars.

The chart does not specify. That being said, it appears to be a "normal" size battery which would lead me to guess 10.25W x 6.75D x 9H but that is just a guess. Any Battery place should be able to cross reference the Delco G2 size. Try this. http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/prod03.htm

Thanks Guys...I think we've got everything except for #4 nailed down pretty close. I appreciate the help!

10.25x6.75x9 G2 with 770 CCA That ought to be easy to match or at least get close. If you go with something "close" make sure the terminals are at least on the correct side.

Unless it's one of the long skinny batteries, it should be affordable. I couldn't find one for less than $125 for my '40 Buick when I owned it. Tractor supply or Farm and Fleet would be my first stop once you know the correct measurements. Battery Tender (Deltran) sells a 6 volt charger. Worth every penny.

LMAO! I still fondly remember the day I sold my Triumph spitfire4 and feel sorry for the chap that bought it. That being said, I still love the Austin Healey Sprites and should have bought one of those instead of the Spit. I had a line on a great one and didn't buy it because it had been restored non-stock. Little did I know at the time, the less stock, the better!

Too many muscle cars.....and nothing ever sells due to the reserves. I have trouble watching BJ too, but at least everything sells (supposedly, although I am sure people have shill bidders out there to ensure they don't take a bath)

I got lucky on my '90 Reatta. I paid $250 for it at auction. (no brakes, trans only had 2nd, starter going out). School bus hit the front end gently. Estimate was $2250. School bus co. self insured the incident and cut me a check. I then sold the car for $750. Wish I could do that every day! Only downside is that since there was a police report made, it showed up over a year later as an at fault accident on my insurance since they had no record of the accident. It took quite a bit of work to clear that up and I'm not sure they truly erased all of the added premium.

Did you check on-line or ask if they can order? I love Vinylex interior cleaner and ACE sells it for about half of what the specialty stores sell it for, but they have to order it in for me.

wouldn't know...nothing lasts 200,000 miles here in the rust belt. I need a car wash at the bottom of my driveway in the winter to keep the road salt from eating straight through my concrete driveway and garage floor.....

If you will ever need the space, go for the roadmaster wagon! I LOVE these cars and I hope it WILL BE my next Buick! Looking for one with the towing package to replace the wife's minivan. If you don't need the space, go for the LeSabre for the mileage.

They also supported the launch of the digital subscription by giving 1 digital issue to everyone currently subscribed.

Never heard of such a thing? What car is it for? When I had my old Buick, I found that 6 volt batteries from Tractor Supply/Farm and Fleet were considerably cheaper than antiqueautobattery if you're not concerned with the original look.

Ran with the JB Weld. Wish I would have pressure tested first. Waited an entire day for the JB weld to dry, then found another hole. so, patched that one and will pressure test again. I'm using 25 psi. Seems to be working well, I have a rubber nozzle that fits the outlet perfectly and the gas cap lets just enough air out to prevent me from putting too much pressure in the tank. (I do get a cool shot of air when I pull the rubber nozzle out though!) I do have another question. Are these electric starters usuallly 12 volt or 6 volt? The battery in the car does not specify. I checked the model number and google shows it as 12 volt, but I've been charging it with my battery tender for a month and it won't go above 8 volts (Which sounds right for a 6 volt battery). It's only about a year or so old according to the sticker. I would think if it is a 6 volt battery, the battery tender would give an error code and not charge it at all since it's a 12 volt charger??? Any ideas?

Thanks to all. Please keep 'em coming! Dave, #4 does have a bowtie on the back next to the part number, so it's got to be chevy. all my parts books are Buick.

So, is there a registration for this thing, or just an informal gathering alongside the GS Nationals?

Computers just seem to highlight how uneducated some people really are. I put that as politically correct as I could!)